Pieter-Paul Derks

This looks like it would be very comfortable, I wish I could hold it

I find that a good wirebrushing removes almost as much scale as wet forging and it doesn't cover me in mucky water, so I don't bother with wet forging any more. This is a very good video, I always watch the That Works channel as the BKS guys are very accomplished bladesmiths.

That is a cool handle construction!

I have forged a soldered billet of gold, silver and white gold once, as a sort of mokume substitute. it worked okay but I only forged cold and had to resolder an open seam a few times. I wouldn't really want to do this with bronze, as most bronzes are hard enough to forge as is and crumble when forged too cold or too hot, but this doesn't mean it can't be done. maybe if you used a ''bronze'' that you can forge cold with careful annealling it will work.

Sadly even good files wear out eventually. Filing blade steel is just hard on files. Make sure to lift the file on the back stroke and make sure your steel is as soft as you can get it. I use different files for non ferrous metals, those stay sharp almost indefinitely so long as i don't use them on steel. I am lucky to live in Europe so good files are easy to find, but unfortunately they are still expensive.

I think I would grind sharp inward curves (kerambit) with the edge of the belt tracked over to one side, thats not easy and would require extra hand finishing, but I think it would work. for less severe curves like on your swedge Connor, I would grind vertically on a big wheel. It would be a good idea to do a practise piece in mild steel, or even wood, to get a feel for the movement your hands have to make, the smoother you curve the better your bevel turns out.

Good looking set of knives I like the burl, is it stabilized?

Just sign up for the next one, You will learn a lot, no matter your skill level. I had a lot of fun with this KITH, it was a really nice challenge.

Such a cool knife, and an even cooler process. I totally agree that the unresolved lines on the knotwork add something, It looks a lot more real and historical this way.

I would like to add that unstabilized wood can be carved and scraped easily, many of the traditional puukko makers used to still shape their knife handles with a knife. decorative woodcarving is also a lot nicer when you're not cutting plastic. I use mostly natural woods that are hard enough to work without stabilisation, but many of the cool burls and spalted woods that are popular today need stabilising. I personally like the patina that natural wood gets from handling, I think a patinated carbon steel blade looks a bit odd on a handle that is till as shiny as when the knife was new.

That is a good looking working knife, I like the forged finish down to the edge, is the tapered tang forged in also?

Very nice restoration. I love seeing such a well used knife. Really nice handle also.

I saw this one unfold over on Instagram, and I think it is absolutely fantastic! I am amazed about that false edge and ofcourse the wootz

Really impressive forging!

Now that is a fantasy knife that I like!