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Pieter-Paul Derks

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Everything posted by Pieter-Paul Derks

  1. I did a lot of grinding and fuller scraping last week and I have a lot of hand polishing in my future. I just thought it would be fun to give a quick update. I tweaked the profile and it looks a lot better now, and I have also scraped in 3 fullers, two on the face and a single centered one of the other side. The whole blade is ground convex to the edge, something that I see on historical seaxes but rarely on reproductions. The only real problem I have with this blade is that it is rather soft, In hindsight it would probaly have been better to water quench this steel (probably 1045 equivalent.) On the other hand I think it is still within historical hardness range and the blade flexes fine and cuts soft targets without damage. This is the first time that I fullered a long blade, and I am surprised how much stiffer it makes it, it really doesn't want to flex at all now and would be great at thrusting through light armor.
  2. That battersea seax is real beauty too, the thick spines are one of my favourite things on seaxes, a shame that they are so hard to see in the museums. I might indeed take up contact with Jeroen one day, I am also really interested in his bronzecasting work. When I go to London next year ( Owens hammer-in ) I might need to spend a few extra days there and visit some of the museums again.
  3. This is my opinion as well, after swinging the blade around a bit. It actually handles quite nicely and still hits with brute force. My plan is to fit a very long handle, and I think it will truly be a fearsome weapon then. My guess is that these really big seaxes were mostly meant for short duels, rather than real battlefield use.(spears are better for open batlle anyway.) but in a 5 minute duel, a 3 or 4 pound blade would be effective and I really wouldn't want to be the guy on the recieving end in such a situation. I think I might make the next one with less taper and see how it handles. I wish I knew a guy in the museums, holding an original seax would answer a lot of questions I have about handling.
  4. I am currently working on something that I think the people on this forum will enjoy: A huge longseax loosely based on a find from the Thames at Mortlake, although I am not really trying to make an accurate copy. This beastie is forged from agricultural spring steel, I might do a "Proper" multibar Damascus version in the future. It is 105 cm overall length and weighs almost 1500 grams before fullering and fine grinding. Obviously I was inspired by the many excellent seax threads in the history subforum, I can't believe some of those are almost 10 years old, Those are the threads got me hooked to this forum as a 14 year old. I am not totally happy about the profile yet; I think I must make the point a bit longer, but I am open for any suggestions. It is heat treated and I’ve done a fair amount of grinding, the next thing will be grinding/scraping some fullers. I also have a question about distal taper on these very big seaxes. My version tapers from 11 to 5mm at the break, because of a cold shut in the steel near the tip. Are the originals of this size distal tapered like this? Or do they maintain the 10mm thickness all the way to the break like smaller seaxes? The Inspiration: number 4 on the picture As forged: The almost obligatory menacing selfie with a big blade My (t)rusty heat treating setup. Where I am now, heat treated and ready for fullering.
  5. This is all great stuff, thank you for sharing! Those devorated bronze artifacts are fantastic
  6. This looks like it would be very comfortable, I wish I could hold it
  7. I find that a good wirebrushing removes almost as much scale as wet forging and it doesn't cover me in mucky water, so I don't bother with wet forging any more. This is a very good video, I always watch the That Works channel as the BKS guys are very accomplished bladesmiths.
  8. That is a cool handle construction!
  9. I have forged a soldered billet of gold, silver and white gold once, as a sort of mokume substitute. it worked okay but I only forged cold and had to resolder an open seam a few times. I wouldn't really want to do this with bronze, as most bronzes are hard enough to forge as is and crumble when forged too cold or too hot, but this doesn't mean it can't be done. maybe if you used a ''bronze'' that you can forge cold with careful annealling it will work.
  10. Sadly even good files wear out eventually. Filing blade steel is just hard on files. Make sure to lift the file on the back stroke and make sure your steel is as soft as you can get it. I use different files for non ferrous metals, those stay sharp almost indefinitely so long as i don't use them on steel. I am lucky to live in Europe so good files are easy to find, but unfortunately they are still expensive.
  11. I think I would grind sharp inward curves (kerambit) with the edge of the belt tracked over to one side, thats not easy and would require extra hand finishing, but I think it would work. for less severe curves like on your swedge Connor, I would grind vertically on a big wheel. It would be a good idea to do a practise piece in mild steel, or even wood, to get a feel for the movement your hands have to make, the smoother you curve the better your bevel turns out.
  12. Good looking set of knives I like the burl, is it stabilized?
  13. Just sign up for the next one, You will learn a lot, no matter your skill level. I had a lot of fun with this KITH, it was a really nice challenge.
  14. Such a cool knife, and an even cooler process. I totally agree that the unresolved lines on the knotwork add something, It looks a lot more real and historical this way.
  15. I would like to add that unstabilized wood can be carved and scraped easily, many of the traditional puukko makers used to still shape their knife handles with a knife. decorative woodcarving is also a lot nicer when you're not cutting plastic. I use mostly natural woods that are hard enough to work without stabilisation, but many of the cool burls and spalted woods that are popular today need stabilising. I personally like the patina that natural wood gets from handling, I think a patinated carbon steel blade looks a bit odd on a handle that is till as shiny as when the knife was new.
  16. That is a good looking working knife, I like the forged finish down to the edge, is the tapered tang forged in also?
  17. Very nice restoration. I love seeing such a well used knife. Really nice handle also.
  18. I saw this one unfold over on Instagram, and I think it is absolutely fantastic! I am amazed about that false edge and ofcourse the wootz
  19. Now that is a fantasy knife that I like!
  20. Alright with the knife done, I think the time has come to post some WIP pictures I actually made two similar knives because I want to have one extra to sell and making two is almost as fast as making one. The carving is different because making two exactly the same is boring in my opinion. The person who draws my name will get to choose his favourite. I started by making a layout file in autocad, this made it a lot easier to get the pin placement right. Normally I design all my stuff freehand, but here some extra accuracy was beneficial. For the blades I made a san-mai (maybe ‘’go-mai’’because of the five layers?) billet with a 1095 core, 15n20 strips on either side and wrought iron sides. The wrought came from the wall anchors from a early 19th century farm. After surface grinding the steel I cut the blades and backspacers from this material. I chose not forge closer to shape because it is a lot easier, but also because the pattern looks better when ground deeply. They were heat treated and ground normally. Grinding such small blades was a lot more difficult as I expected, I burned my fingertips a lot. After the steel parts were done the real work was about to begin. The copper needed to be flattened, and because copper doesn’t stick to my surface grinder magnet it had to be done with sandpaper on a granite plate. I think this was the most time consuming part of the whole build. The flat copper gets super glued together and holes are drilled. I made some brass washers for the pivot and decorated them with a tiny hammer. I assembled the handle without the blade and shaped and polished it, after buffing most of the copper pins disappeared. The blade is etched and the pivot pin riveted. With everything assembled I could move on to the best part: engraving the handles. I mount the knife in pine rosin pitch and tap away with a tiny hammer and homemade engravers. After some testing of different ways to layout the design I eventually settled on using regular old whiteout, it sticks really good to metal, you can draw on it directly with a pencil and even erase pencil lines when careful. So now I could freehand the knotwork with pencil and just follow the lines with chisel. After carving and removing of very sticky pitch I patinated the handles with liver of sulphur. And Most of the patina rubbed from the high spots. With handling these knives are only getting prettier each day. Even scratches add to the antique look. I just got a new camera, so I made some high resolution pictures for you all to enjoy. Thanks for watching
  21. Hello gentlemen, I have something new to sell and show you all. This full tang camp knife was forged from 80crv2, a very tough and hard wearing spring steel, on the spine and ricasso the texture from forging is still visible. The blade is antiqued to a matte grey for looks and a bit of rust protection. My makers mark is engraved and inlaid in copper on one side of the knife. The blade is razor sharp and this knife is an excellent cutter. The handle has an integral forged guard and is made of spalted beech scales with copper pins and lanyard tube. The scales have a ``heirloom fit´´ this means that they aren´t totally flush with the tang, when the wood shrinks with humidity or age there will be no ugly gaps between scales and tang. The lanyard/wrist loop is leather with a handmade copper bead. The sheath is hand sewn vegetable leather with a decorated belt loop. Steel: 80crv2 carbon spring steel Handle: spalted beech and copper pins Weight: 395grams Spine thickness: 5.5mm Height: 40mm Edge Length: 215mm Handle Length: 125mm Overall Length: 365mm €225 + Shipping I have also posted this in my Etsy shop, buying from there is convenient payment wise, but please feel free to contact me via PM or e-mail. https://www.etsy.com/nl/listing/732561861/hand-gesmeed-rustieke-camp-mes?ref=shop_home_active_1 Thanks for looking, -Pieter-Paul Derks- mefecit@outlook.com
  22. Crazy good as always! I love how well the antique and new parts blend together. I also want to praise your photography, it really sets the tone while still being very clear on the subject matter.
  23. I am done too, I'll have to do a little write up in my kith thread soon. The person who draws my name wil get to pick one of the damascus folders. I'm keeping the monosteel one for myself.
  24. Thanks guys! A big part of my "artistic" carving is stealing designs from our viking forefathers, anyone can learn to do it. The hardest thing for me is sharpening the gravers. Joshua: I think the warncliffe is my favourite for edc, you get a nice sharp point for cutting boxes, garden stuff and picking out splinters.(the things I use a knife most for.) Warncliffe blades also look non-threatening, something that is becoming more important in western Europe where I live.
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