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Pieter-Paul Derks

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Everything posted by Pieter-Paul Derks

  1. Now that is very nice, the combination between the white handl and the patina is very nice. That slanted bolster is killer too.
  2. This is so cool, I need to get my hands on some horn soon. I even like the filework, and I'm normally not a fan of that.
  3. I have a huge block of it, it is nice stuff but a bit whiter and less figured than I expected. I have never worked with real ivory so I have no idea how much it resembles the real stuff. It sands and polishes very fast and is sensitive to dirt getting into the surface, so working with clean hands is a must. It also smell lovely like coconuts.
  4. I do like that design and I am a dedicated freehand grinder. Looks nice and simple and adjustable for different knives. Notice that he does use a mist coolant system, without I think thin blades would get hot fast.
  5. I always love the profile of the honeylane seax, such good lines. Forging to a pattern is such a time saver for me that I make them for every knife, no more going back and forth for adjustment.
  6. That is a clever solution, My horizontal furnace works fine, but I hate how much space it takes up.
  7. I think O2 steel would be quite close, it forges very nice in my opinion, not too different from O1. Sometimes the 80crv2 I use is labeled as 1080+, but I don't know if that is correct, or just marketing.
  8. I think warpage is un-avoidable when using metals this dissimilar, single sided laminates will warp like crazy no matter what even with steel and iron. By coincidence I just stumbled on japanese made steel with mokume cladding that looks more traditional and has iron in the mix. https://www.bladegallery.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=1835&cat=Yu-Shoku%3A+V-Toku2+Carbon+Steel+Clad+with+Mokume+(Copper%2C+Brass%2C+and+Stainless+Steel)%2C+DPS+San+Mai Not cheap of course, but I personally like it more than the super contrast baker forge stuff that is all over instagram. The idea of fusing nonferrous with steel core is not a new thing and a lot of variations have been done with the concept. I have even seen gold as a layer in between, now that is something I'd like to try if gold was not so expensive.
  9. So very nice, I would not be able to tell the difference between this and an original from the period
  10. I think those Baker Forge pieces are etched and patinated for maximum contrast. I suspect that with different finishing they will look just like the japanese knife in your first picture. alternatively you could look for a mokume-gane blank and weld/braze that to your core steel. I know some knife suppliers sell ready made mokume guard blanks that might be enough for a small blade.
  11. I have personally done a fair bit of damascus by hand, a power hammer is nicer ofcourse but not nessecary. The trick is to forge multiple smaller billets and only add them together at the end, I did a 400 layer short sword this way without to much damage to my wrists. I have a very old (pre 1800 maybe) anvil that I suspect is not hardened at all, the face is mushroomed and work hardened a bit but still very soft. It still is perfectly servicable as an anvil. I think obsessing over the perfect anvil is a bit useless, I know a guy that has 5 or 6 pristine kohlswa anvils, but none of them made him a good or skilled blacksmith. The best way to find an anvil is still to talk with other local blacksmiths, maybe there is a guild or a living history museum somewhere in your area? Some smiths might even be willing to loan you one, that is how I got my start in this craft.
  12. I crowned the contact wheel of my grinder with a farriers rasp before, it was a bit scary to attack a 200 euro wheel with a rusty rasp, but it even improved how smooth it runs If you can spin the wheel somehow on its own bearing it is an easy fix, maybe with patching the hole a bit like Brian above me suggests
  13. That looks like it will be a very versatile forge, I am curious to see it run. I use coal for most of my stuff since it is a lot cheaper than propane, but the clean-ness of a gas forge is very nice.
  14. I also like the subtle pattern, it fits the knife well. the random pattern itself is very nice and classic.
  15. I finally got around to building myself a disc grinder, I was kind of scared of the electrical wiring as I'd never done something like that before, but it really wasn't hard at all. One horsepower motor with cheap vfd from amazon, I already love it for squaring handle blocks.
  16. This is super nice!, I never knew these swords were cast from the tip. Bronze swords are almost magic to me, last month I was looking at some in a museum (Limburgs museum in Venlo) that looked like they could have been made yesterday.
  17. I've cold forged bronze sheet down thinner before I had my rolling mill, It is a lot of work but it can be done. I imagine thin sheets would be bundled up and forged down together similar to how gold leaf is still made. I would think you'd be surprised at the skill and technology of the metal casters in the ''dark age''
  18. That turned out awesome! I know how much work these sheaths are and I am impressed with it
  19. That is some really nice burl and the shape looks spot on. I don't know if it was intentional, but I think the forge finish spot on the blade and the burl hole mirror each other in a very cool way.
  20. Nice work! these carved handles add so much to this style of ''viking'' knife. I think you will love your new rotary tool, next to carving they have a thousand other uses in the knife shop.
  21. I like it, this looks like a very user friendly comfortable knife.
  22. With such a basic heat treat I think you will not get much improvement over a simple steel. I use 80crv2 primarily and it really needs a 5 minute soak at a relatively even temperature. I use a oil drum furnace with a simple burner, so it is not like you need a super expensive electric oven or anything. When you do get the heat treat right it is a fantastic steel, fine grained but still very tough. Parks 50 is too fast of an quenchant, you would need a slower oil as well, I guess heated canola would work.
  23. I haven't made a sheath in a while, I find it hard to justify the time I spend on them while I have so much projects I still want to do. That said, I do think this knife needs one, I might have to buy some leather and give it a try.
  24. That looks good, nice tight fit. I am curious to see how this will work on a finished knife
  25. I have a slightly related question, I plan on using a cheap vfd like this in the future and I don't want it to die in a shower of sparks if I can help it. How are the enclosures for these made? Building a ''real'' electrical cabinet with holes for airflow sounds counter intuitive, but I would worry about overheating with a closed box. Also this looks like a great grinder build, I like the all tube steel construction, and my welding skills are around the same level
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