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Pieter-Paul Derks

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Everything posted by Pieter-Paul Derks

  1. I really like this one, loved seeing it come together on social media as well. This is one of the few knives I like with all damascus hardware, often it is just too busy for my taste, but you struck the perfect balance. I also love wide guards on daggers, very elegant.
  2. That guard bending trick is genius, I wish I had known that when bending a bronze s-guard, doing it over the anvil was a real pain. For bending copper a hardwood block with a groove filed would be adequate, and you could use a round rod for the other die.
  3. This is real nice, I like the shapes a lot and there is just enough detail and texture to make it stand out.
  4. I love this so much, the amount of detail put into these is great.
  5. Thanks Joshua! the epoxy is always a real mess, with the hole all the way through the block it squeezes out everywhere. To help myself I coat everything in vaseline where I don't want it to stick and peel it of after drying. Thanks Gary, I do it with a die grinder (foredom jewelry making motor) it is a bit slow, because I do not have the skill to make plunges like this at the belt grinder. this way I can make any kind of plunge I want with aluminum oxide burrs.
  6. Thanks everyone! The knife is made in takedown style, with a threaded tang and held together by the bronze pommel nut. As forged, with these sweeping plunges it doesn't make sense to forge in the bevels. ground before HT, I did the plunges with a die grinder later. Turning the pommel nut from bronze Casting bronze for the guard, I can't find sheet stock thick enough so I make it myself. Squaring the wood block on the lathe and drilling for the tang and pommel nut. The collar is made from bronze sheet and brazed together, quite fiddly work, but very satisfying. After a while with files. I have no more pictures of the process unfortunately, the handle was epoxy bedded to the tang and shaped, and I spend a lot of time sanding and finishing parts to their final gloss. I will take a picture of the parts before assembly, that might also be fun to see.
  7. I thought it would be fun to show some of my work here again, I'm really bad at sharing what I make. This is 80crv2 steel with bronze fittings and some absolutely spectacular stabilized birch, I wish I had bought more of this handle material. The better I get with polishing surfaces the harder I make it for myself to take good pictures. If anyone is interested I have a few pictures of making this knife, I could post those later.
  8. A very impressive build, I am a bit envious of people who can spend so much time on a single knife, I tend to lose interest after a while, I've spent 60 hours on a knife and after that I was really looking forward to the next build.
  9. I must admit that I have less knowledge of these things than some of the other posters in this thread, but I have done similar castings in delft clay. Your second attempts look real nice already. Personally I would cast this from the top, because it is the easiest surface to clean up again, and it would make it as easy as possible for the metal to fill the mold. I made a quick ugly sketch to show what I mean, the red lines are air vents, I poke these with a thin bit of wire through the sand.
  10. These are great! very simple but super pleasing. I like the leather handle the most, must be very comfortable.
  11. That damascus looks great, I love the chatoyant laddered edge. I also think the handle is a bit too wide/ high, I would try to make it even with the lines of the blade. I don't remember if it is the case for this particular seax, but I know that some of these type have a bit of a radiused spine, maybe to flow seamless into the handle/bolsters.
  12. I use a vertical forge with a blown burner and I really like it, but it is more complicated than a venturi forge. With the materials you have I would go for a smaller sized forge, I do not know the size of your burners, but sometimes one burner is enough for a welding forge. I would go for a round forge no bigger than you need with the burner at a tangent to make a nice swirling flame, making a flat floor is not neccesary in my opinion. My main advice is to not overthink it, gas forges are quite simple and will not last forever, and you will probably want to make adjustments after trying it a few times, like making the doors bigger and such.
  13. That is very clever, I like the look of that fluted handle.
  14. I agree the lines and swept plunge work real well together. I also want to add that that handle wood is super cool.
  15. I really love this one, very clever use of the gallery wire. Making a bollock dagger has been on my list for years
  16. I love that knife! it was found close to me actually. I look forward to seeing the patternweld.
  17. I just finished building my version of this forge, lets hope it will last me 20 years as well. Browsing Don's site made me nostalgic, I remember finding it as a 13 year old and being astounded that there were still people forging knives in this world.
  18. That is a very pretty knife. I'm quite jealous of your shop, both for all the tools you have and how organized everything is.
  19. That is a real beauty! Now I want to play with crucible steel too
  20. Ha! I love those toes, this is such a cool project again
  21. I had the same problem so I have two different marks, my signature for modern knives, and a touchmark monogram for ancient work. I electro etch them. I also have a stamp of the monogram for forged to finish stuff. It really is a trade off between having a traceable legible mark and having something that looks good. As I understand it a touchmark has to be struck in, either hot or cold, while a makers mark can also be etched or engraved.
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