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Pieter-Paul Derks

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Everything posted by Pieter-Paul Derks

  1. I like die makers stones for this.(sometimes called edm stones) I do use a foredom for most of the work, with many different bits and it still is a real pain, I think there is no real good way to do this quickly.
  2. I just want to say that I really like reading this thread, This is going to be a very fancy hawk.
  3. Fantastic bronze work! a real accomplishment to cast and finish one of these monster blades. I went to the exhibition with all six of these swords together and it was a magical display, I honestly think these are my favorite historical objects.
  4. The blade that came with the saw was actually quite nice, better than the ones I have now even though they all are original milwaukee. I might look into getting a bi-metal one, probably won't be the same brand here in europe.
  5. Those big lever shears are nice, they will cut annealed tool steel just fine up to a few mm. they are not great at cutting curves and will leave a bit of a burr usually. Normally they have a compound lever type of action and can be real powerful. I have a milwaukee portaband and I only use it for nonferrous metal, tool steel needs to be perfectly annealed and will eat blades way too quickly, and cutting anything with forge scale will also dull it. Fantastic for cutting bronze and copper though. A cheap but messy option is an angle grinder, they cut anything and with a bit of practise any shape.
  6. This all sounds like a great experience! all things around the making of steel are magic to me and super interesting. I am always totally mesmerized by molten gold, almost an otherworldly metal. Fun fact, in Dutch and french goldsmithing the contaminated precious metal is called ''lavure'', a term also used for dishwater containing bits of food
  7. Jep this sounds like decarb to me. I use a decent amount of 80crv2 and it really does develop a thicker decarb layer in my experience. I do a quick file test after hardening 90 degrees to the edge and really bite in, scraping a file against the flat of the blade will not tell you much. Side note, I've been using o1 for some integrals lately and that stuff gets crazy hard in comparison, it sounds like glass straight after the quench.
  8. Real nice work, I love these super elegant ''simple'' rapier hilts
  9. I use that same kind of electrolytic stencils as in the video above, I really like them. I use the cheapest laboratory power supply I could find because I didn't have a battery charger I also have seen people build their own devises and use laptop chargers. I figured a power supply was easiest, It even came with alligator clamps for my q-tip A q-tip soaked in salt water works fine, but I do want to get the proper electrolyte in the future. The main thing was experimenting with the duration of the etch, it depends on the size of your mark and the depth you want. My power supply is 15V 2A AC power, it will etch deeply but won't colour the steel black, I think that requires DC power. I got the stencils from this german company, They were only around 15 euro each, so I had them make a few different sizes. I think there should be suppliers in the us as well, as this is a very common process in industry. https://www.schilling-marking.de/en/electrolyticmarking/markingstencils.html
  10. I am not an expert on VFD, they are a bit of electronic magic in a box to me. As far as I understand a VFD is not that great at speeding up quickly, They need to be programmed to start up slowly or else there is a chance to fry the delicate electronics. The drive on my belt grinder takes a few seconds to get to max surface speed. So this would not be that great for a hammer where you want quick acceleration. I do think that it could work on a hammer to control the max speed for instance, and then engage it with a clutch. In my mind this is overcomplicating things, a properly tuned flat belt or clutch can give great control and this has worked for at least 150 years
  11. Nice shape, that is a lovely big piece of walnut.
  12. Personally I would forge that out to a stick tang and start on a new integral All methods of joining a tang would not be optimal. Drilling and tapping a hole would be the next best thing, you could even drill all the way through the handle and use a nut to pull the handle tight against the bolster.
  13. It might be a simple knife but I think it is a really nice one I always love birch bark handles, and that bronze is a great match for it
  14. I have been quite busy doing commission work, for some reason I am getting more requests than ever. My plan was to make some stock for knifeshows that are coming up and to work towards my ABS goals but I just can''t find the time. The latest project completed was a major challenge but also a real cool result. A pair of damascus wedding rings with silver liners and inlays. I had done a signet ring for the same client with the same inlayed damascus, so I thought making these rings would be fun. The thing I didn't account for is how tiny the inlays on these are, the lines are only half a mm wide.
  15. I used to have a 40 pound mechanical powerhammer, It would hit about as hard as I can with a 5 pound hand hammer on a big anvil. The advantage is that the hammer doesn't get tired and is also immune to carpal tunnel. I really regret selling it with the damascus commissions I've been getting lately. I had the same problem of not owning the shop space, and that hammer did fine on a rubber foundation bolted to the floor. In my opinion a treadle hammer is useless for drawing out stock, it will make you just as tired as hand hammering.
  16. Now this is a very cool project, I once made a damascus cake server, but that was nowhere near as fancy as this one is going to be.
  17. Hello everyone, I have found an interesting hydraulic press, it is an old industrial unit and very different looking from the purpose built knifemaking machines. My question is, does this look usable for forging? anyone have experience with this style of machine? It is not cheap enough that I'll just buy it and find out, but a lot more affordable than a new unit. It is a 10 metric ton unit, with 4 inch cylinder and the seller claims that it will do 2.5 inches per second. I think that would put it comparable with the small coal iron presses or other smaller home builds.
  18. I agree, this might be my favorite thread on this forum, it really shows how much different paths there are in the craft of bladesmithing. I was just thinking about this thread the other day, strange to realise that I read parts of this a decade ago. It would be really nice if the interviews could continue someday
  19. Great looking blade! I am hoping for a tiger head pommel now
  20. My heat treat furnace is a bit smaller but it gets up to forging temperature easy with just a weedburner, I need to choke it down to almost nothing to get heat treat temps. I used 1 inch ceramic blanket without any refractory ( biodegradable wool so less health hazard.) I have the burner at a tangent to create a swirling flame, my burner hole is way oversized, it might be yours is not getting enough air. At first I had the setup vertical like yours, but it never worked nicely, once I turned it horizontal it worked way better. Do you know how much your furnace weighs? it might also just have a lot more thermal mass than a 55gallon drum and thus take longer to heat.
  21. Incredible work! that turned out a real lovely sword, I love that original as well. getting that guard out of that poiece of steel is almost like sculpture.
  22. Good stuff, that handle wood looks real nice
  23. I use Vaseline on everything I don't want glue to stick. I just let the epoxy dry and peel it off later. I found that trying to clean up wet epoxy is more likely to get it everywhere. On the knife above I did the contours of the handle last, because I needed to blend in the copper pins and flare a lanyard tube.
  24. All metal to wood joints I do have a ''heirloom fit'' (sounds a bit too much like marketing for my liking) I even had stabilized wood move enough for sharp corners to become noticable. I am also a bit wierd and like to have everything totally finished before glue up. I take a (diamond)file to the corners of both the wood and metal and polish the edges. I think it looks a bit more interesting as well. This knife has a quite an extreme example, this is unstabilized wood on a knife that will spend a lot of time outdoors, so I went a bit extra.
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