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Pieter-Paul Derks

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Everything posted by Pieter-Paul Derks

  1. I am always glad to help! Your casting is looking a lot better, certainly usable. Most of the delft clay casting I've done was jewelry in precious metal, so a bit different than casting a much heavier pommel cap. When casting a few grams of silver the most important part is to get it to fill the mould as quickly as possible because the metal with solidify in an instant. Like Jerrod above me, my advise for the next one would be to make the transition between sprue and part more ''fluid'' by scraping away a bit of sand from the mould.
  2. That looks good already and like a lot of fun. I love delft clay casting, it is so quick to do and still can give great results, even showing my fingerprints If I were you I would try and cast a shape like this from the back, with a larger diameter sprue. This way you don't have to blend in the sprue in a visible spot, and the metal will fill the mold more evenly. Do you have channels for the air to escape? a few tiny channels on the lowest point might help prevent those bubbles in the surface.
  3. I have played around a bit with forging T-spines, although never made it into a finished blade. The localised heat from my coal forge worked quite well, since I am like the smiths of old and don't have a fancy torch. With practise and a light hammer you can get a pretty nice upset that gives enough material to scrape. I also suspect these blades were forged from rather thick bars, and fullered and forged into shape. A well trained smith and striker team can fuller remarkably accurate with simple tools, after that the ridges just need to be defined by chisels and scrapers before hardening. I really love this style of blades,the skill and artistry in them is really something to aspire to.
  4. I tried using milling bits in a drill press, even bits special for milling wood. I found that side pressure just makes my drill chuck loosen and fall out, annoying and it doesn't work all that well or quickly. It works a little bit better in a cordless drill because the chuck can't loosen but this is not very precise, I just use a broach now.
  5. I forge everything, but for stock removal I would use the same process. I do a thorough normalise after forging so I can file and sometimes cold straighten a blade (not easy with the 80crv2) I normalise three more times before hardening, making sure to also do the tang and ricasso area and quench in pre-heated oil.
  6. I have been using this steel quite a bit, and can get real nice performance out of it. I go to 850c (1565f) on my thermocouple, I'm using a propane drum furnace. If you can keep a steady temperature in your forge, I would do a 3 minute soak for a normal sized knife, this will improve performance a bit, and also solve your issue of the ricasso not hardening. A kitchen timer is a essential tool for heat treating in my opinion, 3 minutes is a lot longer than you might expect holding a knife at temp.
  7. Very nice, I love the period look.
  8. I use a round needle in a flex shaft to ''punch'' the holes, I can make small adjustments as I go and do not remove material like a drill bit would. The needle kind of burns/melts its way through. It still isn't perfect but the best way to get trough thick stacked leather. It does really suck to poke your fingers with a hot spinning needle in a moment of carelesness
  9. I don't believe any gas burner heat treat forge will work well in a vertical configuration without making it overcomplicated. I too am short on space so I tried to use a drum forge vertically, but even with baffles and a lot of tinkering it never really worked well. Once I turned it horizontal it worked without any issues, I have to store it outside under a tarp, because it takes up so much space, but in my mind this is worth it for how effective it is.
  10. Looking good! I only like making kitchen knives when I can make them utilitarian and brut de forge, fancier kitchen knives don't do much for me. However I do end up making kitchen knives on request, people do want them. I actually said no to a possible damascus one a while back, my wrists really can't handle more damascus billets at this point I sold my power hammer at the wrong time it seems.
  11. The nicest I've seen in europe are these claryx metalworks grinders, based in bulgaria I believe. https://claryxmetalworks.com/ They had a table near me at a knife show so I got too look at them all day, and I've also heard people liking them. Unfortantely I had just spent my money on a different grinder that I like a lot less.
  12. These look very good, I really like this style of knife, even though I wouldn't really have a use for one. The handles look great also, I love those ferrules.
  13. Really nice, I love seaxes and the carving and leatherwork that comes with them.
  14. I just take a pinch of borax between my fingers and throw it in the crucible. If you know anyone with a business licence they can order borax for you online, at least here in the Netherlands, it is just banned for consumers. Afaik it doesn't matter which kind of business.
  15. That is a very beatiful machine. To me it looks to be a roller for nonferrous metals, similar to what is used in the jewelry trade. Because it is so heavy duty you might be able to get away with using it for hot metal, be very careful however, these machines are not build for large reduction in a single pass. There is no mechanism in place to cope with too high loads, like on a purpose built forging rolling mill (a soft link) If you feed it to big of an bite or too cold material the machine will tear itself apart, I know this can happen with powered jewelry rolling mills. That said if you are careful it can be used and give you perfect uniform thickness.
  16. I carry an slim bladed lockback folder, Joshua might know exactly which one :). it use it mostly to open packaging and getting rid of splinters, where a big blade would be unwieldy. As I live in a urban area, the most important characteristic of an edc for me is that it looks non-threatening, carrying a fixed blade is frowned upon here. For a more outdoors lifestyle a bigger knife is handy.
  17. I really like the blade shape, slim and pointy, the carving and sheath is, as always, top notch.
  18. I like the colour! Guess I'll add this press next to the 70s triumph tr6 on the list of green british things I really want in my garage
  19. Here's mine, I finished a few months ago because lockdown gave me some extra free time in the middle of the year.
  20. I just thought of something, although it is pure conjecture on my part, maybe an open steaming pan might help with the air humidity? I have noticably dry skin and lips after a forging session and I can imagine that it would be a real discomfort when sitting at the forge all week long.
  21. Just for posterity, there are files that will file hardened and tempered steel, I have Vallorbe Valtitan files that I use to cut my tang shoulders and choils after heat treat. They claim to be 70HRC and are developed for modern titanium alloys. However these are maybe the most expensive files you can buy
  22. I love that grim reaper knife so much already! Can't wait to see it finished
  23. Some very nice user friendly knives here, I really like the handle with the bright stripes, not only is it harder to lose but it also looks really cool!
  24. Very cool! that looks like a very satisfying fit between all the parts
  25. I always love that little sneak peek of the damascus when normalizing
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