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pieter-pauld last won the day on June 15

pieter-pauld had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

25 Excellent


About pieter-pauld

  • Birthday 11/25/1996

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Deurne, the netherlands
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, swords, history, blacksmithing,
    death and black metal, playing bass, doing metal vocals and reading fantasy books.
  1. Nice work This is a very simple and very nice design, and the slight asymmetry only adds to the look.
  2. That is a nice and very sleek looking knife!
  3. Nice work. That serpent in the back of the blade is Something I haven't seen before, and I really like it
  4. Here is my entry: c100 steel with temper line, with a hexagonal handle made of apple wood from my own garden and an ebony spacer. 3mm thick at the handle tapering to 1.5mm at the tip. Total length 34cm (13 inch),with an edge length of 20cm (almost 8 inches.)
  5. Thanks for the compliments guys, I hope the receiver will be happy with this knife. As promised, some better pictures.
  6. Very nice knife, there is a lot to like about this one. I really love those big sheath rivits and the boxwood carving.
  7. The heat treat went well,without cracks or warps, However I found out that my heat treat oven creates a lot of decarb, so I had to grind the blade thinner than planned and probably also ground through some hamon activity, although I also think I used too little clay. The hamon is pretty in its own way but not what I was shooting for, but when I ground trough the decarb it was too thin to heat treat again and the edge was nice and hard. After that it was just the old grinding and polishing. One thing I noticed is that this blade was very hard to sand, I don''t know if it was the steel or that my heat treat has improved with the oven, but it seemed to take forever to get some scratches out. However in the end I did manage to get a decent polish, I did not go too high because I want this blade to be used and it would just get scratched and patinated by use anyway. The handle is made from apple wood from my own garden that I have had stashed away for some years and a piece of ebony for a spacer. The only thing that is left now is to sharpen the edge and oil the handle a few extra times, and make some quality pictures.
  8. That turned out a very cool knife, it looks a lot like an old solingen knife my grandfather owns.
  9. Today I found time to do the rough grind before heat treat, and refine the profile. I first take off the scale with a hard disc on an angle grinder, to save on expensive grinding belts. Then the flats are ground with a 80 grit ceramic belt, and the profile is refined some on the flat platen. After the profile is where I want it and the flats are flat all the way to the edge, I will round all the edges with a file. For most knives I think this really improves the comfort when in use, and also improves the look of the knife. Last I file in the tang shoulders, and make sure the tang has an even taper to the ricasso end. Before I start the actual heat treating I take the time to inspect the knife from all angles. Often times I notice things when handling the blade that aren't so obvious and it is best to fix them while the blade is soft. For example as I am writing this I notice that my ricasso is a bit too long, and that the spine near the tip needs a bit more rounding.
  10. I had some projects to finish first, before I could get started on my kitchen knife for this KITH, so I started much later than planned. I originally wanted to do a damascus san mai construction, but I have run out of steel and I won't have the money to buy some before the due date. However, I did have a nice new piece of c100 (similar to 1095) which I wanted to try. This is my first time working with this steel and I want to see if I can get a nice active hamon. As design inspiration I looked at Japanese nakiri knives, with their distinctive squared tip. I will not try to do anything traditional however, and the handle will be entirely modern. So lets get started: I did not take too much pictures of the forging, this style of knife is pretty straightforward anyway. Here the steel has already been thinned both in with and thickness, and I am forging the tang: Before starting on the bevels, I make sure that my preform is flat and has all the tapers where I want them, I use a flatter and low heat for this. If your preform ( sunobe if you're into japanese stuff) is nice and consistent, the bevelling will go easy and your edge will be easy to center: To start the bevels I use a hammer with a very flat peen and hammer about halfway up the blade, straightening as I go along, until I am almost at my edge thickness. Then I use a heavy hammer with a flat face, and draw the bevels up all the way to the spine, this smoothes all the hammer marks left by the peening: The finished forging lying in the sun: To anneal I got to use my new heat treat oven: a laboratory tube furnace I got for a nice price at an auction. the anneal went perfect, I was able to straighten the knife using just my hands and it was a joy to file. I never knew how much I needed precise temp control and the ability to slow cool.
  11. Thank you, I really like the handle myself, the heavy sculpting makes a very secure grip. This was the first time I worked with ebony, and I must say that it is wonderfull stuff, easy to grind, carve and rasp.
  12. A while ago a good friend of mine asked me if I was willing to make him a knife, mainly because he wanted to own something that I made. He wanted a Bowie knife, but the specifics of the design were left to me. We agreed that I would make something not too elaborate, mostly because he is a college student and didn't have a lot of money to spend. However as I was making this knife I decided to spend more time and materials anyway, mainly because I like making knives to the best of my abilities, and also because I like the guy and wanted to do him a favor and make him a really cool knife. The knife was forged from c75 steel and hand polished and sharpened. The guards are made from brass, and the handle is made from a beautiful piece of gray streaked ebony. The sheath is also made by myself, from vegetable tanned leather and hand stitched. Overall length 30 cm Blade length 18 cm
  13. I will try my very best to be there again. I had a lot of fun last year, and learned more than I thought was possible in three days.
  14. Very nice work! I love how the grain of the wrought iron shows exactly how the axe was built up and forged.
  15. My design is ready, I should really get started soon. I will try to document as much of the process as possible.