• Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

pieter-pauld

Members
  • Content count

    302
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

pieter-pauld last won the day on December 9 2016

pieter-pauld had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

18 Good

5 Followers

About pieter-pauld

  • Birthday 11/25/1996

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Deurne, the netherlands
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, swords, history, blacksmithing,
    death and black metal, playing bass, doing metal vocals and reading fantasy books.
  1. I really love that mokume, much nicer colours than the usual brass and copper mokume I think. I really want to try my hand at making some mokume soon. Are you willing to share how you patinated the shibuichi? I like how many different colours it has.
  2. How do you keep the mandrel from welding to the socket? Does the graphite you coated it with prevent this? I tried to make pipe once and enden with a nice solid bar.
  3. Fantastic project indeed, I look forward to seeing it come alive. I think there are too few people doing elaborate iron carving these days, one day I'm going to try stuff like this myself. On bending these, it is also possible that they heated the parts unevenly, In essence the thicker parts are made hotter so they will bend as much as the thin parts, sounds a lot easier than it is though
  4. Fantastic work as usual, I am looking forward to seeing these swords in Solingen. I am continually amazed how refined and elegant these high medieval pommels are, they are works of art all by themselves.
  5. Very nice work! the small size makes it appear equal parts jewel and knife. I saw this on instagram already but felt the need to comment here, I am always a big fan of your work.
  6. Thank you, I'm quite pleased with this one myself
  7. Twist pattern kitchen knife 100 layer twisted damascus with brass ferrule and handle made of Padouk wood the knife's weight is 145 grammes blade length of 16 cm In my opinion for most work in the kitchen a smaller knife is ideal, for it is lighter and easier to work with. This lead me to forge this mid size chef's knife, with a blade shape suited to almost all cooking tasks, from chopping vegetables to cutting meat. The ferrule (metal part of handle) is made from brass, and the handle is shaped from tropical Padouk, this makes for a very eye catching red and gold colored handle. The damascus is a mix of o2 and 75Ni8 carbon steels, stacked to 100 layers and then twisted tightly, this gives a very bold and striking pattern. These steels also take a very fine and keen edge, and are easy to resharpen. This knife is for sale, the asking price is 250 euro's -Pieter-Paul Derks-
  8. Thanks for the nice words. The handle is indeed very comfortable and also very "grippy" I use the carved butt on more of my work, I think it adds a nice bit of texture in an unexpected place.
  9. This is a knife I finished quite some time ago, I just never got around to posting it here. The blade was forged on a whim, to test how accurate I could forge, the edge was around 1mm when done forging, the heat treat was done before any grinding. The steel was an old file if my memory serves me right.The handle was made from yew wood, from a stump given to me by a friend. The yew is my favourite tree, so it seemed fitting for my personal knife.The handle was carved with viking, and a bit of cedarlore, inspired knotwork with an antler motif. The sheath was made from vegtan leather dyed dark green.For a suspension system I used two leather loops, these allow me to thread through a belt, keeping the knife always close without it dangling about. I'm really happy how it carries.The runes on the loops read “Evergreen eternal” the name of the knife.It seemed fitting to call the knife that as the yew tree is a symbol of everlasting life. I really enjoyed making this knife, and I use it a lot for opening boxes and also for woodcarving.( I like to carve my knife handles by hand, as opposed to breathing in wood dust from the grinder. Thanks for looking -Pieter-Paul Derks
  10. This week i got my first real belt grinder set up, and I couldn't be happier. I bought the machine from https://www.der-kleine-messerladen.de/ and so far I am very happy with how it performs so far. It has a lot of options, and actually cost more than my car. but compared to my old crappy grinder it is worth all the money in the world. I still can't really believe how fast and easy grinding is with nice belts, tracking and variable speed. If you live in europe this is a grinder I can recommend, it is very well built, has variable speed built in and there is a lot of extra tooling to add to it. Biggest disadvantage, is that it is a two wheel design, so the machine is very long
  11. Very nice work, it looks absolutely fearsome
  12. Very cool! Looks like it would be a lot of fun to make.
  13. As far as I know, but I'm no real expert, this method was indeed used on medieval sword scabbards, using thin veneers of bent wood to create a very slim and light scabbard. Because the scabbards were covered in cloth or leather applied with animal glue, this creates a form of composite which is stronger than the thin walls would suggest. It also would be faster to make a scabbard this way instead of carving from a block of wood and easier to make a well fitted slender shape. This thread by the expert on this subject, Peter Johnsson, shows the process of making such an historically accurate scabbard for a dagger, but i'm shure it would work for a sword from the same time period:
  14. Hello everyone, after again destroying a nice handle block trying to split it with a handsaw, something that happens way too often. I decided I want to buy a bandsaw. The problem is that my shop isn't that large, so that I do not have the space to place a full size bandsaw. I figured since I do not need to work large pieces of wood, only cut handleblocks for spacers and scales, that I could buy a tabletop model bandsaw like this one: The reviews from woodworkers i've found are very mixed, some say they are great for small work, other claim that they are next to useless. Do they very knowledgeable people on this site have any experience with machines like this? Would it be okay for cutting hardwood blocks somewhat accurately, or will I just have to go for a big one and sacrifice some extra shop space?
  15. If I was to attempt Something like this I would start with a lathe and files to Block out the rough shape, then I would use a quality rotary tool with carbide burrs for the 3d carving. Finally clean the lines with riffling files and chisels. It would still be An herculean task though, this kind of sculpting will always take a lot of time and skill.