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briphi

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  1. Ok, so I got my HSS gravers that I ordered. I was thinking of practicing cutting some runes or maybe doing wire inlay on some mild steel bar stock that I can buy at lowes/home depot. Does that sound like a good place to start? Does that steel come soft enough to engrave/inlay or do I need to anneal it somehow?
  2. Hmm, if it was cracked before quench it was invisible. I had the blade sanded to 600 grit and there was no visible crack (I definitely would have noticed). Maybe sid is correct and I struck it under forging temp and it opened up later. I went ahead and finished the blade, since it's my first one I didn't really want to break it up. I'm just gonna keep it for personal use. I like the idea of breaking up a piece and examining the grain to detect how well the heat treat worked though, maybe on some scrap. I know canola is fast for quenching O1 which might have caused the problem? You
  3. briphi

    RaubĂ­r...

    Quick question, how did you darken around the edges of the carving?
  4. I antiqued the steel by applying Birchwood Casey Super Blue, then immediately soaking in bleach for 10 minutes. Afterwards you steel wool off the rust. You might want to practice it first on scrap, I got some weirdness where the front part of the blade is darker than the rear for whatever reason.
  5. Mostly finished my very first knife (handle needs more linseed coats). Forged the blade out of O1, handle is black walnut, spacer is mild steel. Learned ALOT from this as I had never really done anything like it before. I basically started with no tools and am self taught. I built a pavilion outside, put a forge in it, built a basement workshop, and over weeks bought everything I needed. I have a huge list of 'things I would do differently' on the next knife, which is the learning process at work. Sorry for the crappy photos, I didn't have a good camera or light source. The first coupl
  6. Cool, thanks guys! I ordered a few of those gravers off ebay just to see what they're capable of. The inlay tutorial makes it look so easy, but like most things are more complicated than they first appear. Oh well, learn by doing. I guess I'll look in to differential hardening as well, didn't notice that at first glance, but it's pretty apparent in some of the tutorials photos.
  7. yea, "frogskin" effect. That's a good description of it. I'll have to grab a pic tonight of the cracks and the frogskin. Thanks for the info!
  8. The link to eagle eye forge in my previous post has a tutorial on wire inlay inwhich a HSS graver is used to carve a large steel knife blade. Since he's doing inlay, I'm assuming the steel has already been hardened (although it doesn't say). How is he accomplishing this if can't use hand gravers on hardened steel?
  9. Actually I'm leaning towards using a graver like the ones sold here: http://www.lacywest.com/20grave.htm and demonstrated (for inlay) here: http://eagleeyeforge.com/ Looks like it would be easier to do than etching, but of course I've never done it.
  10. Just ordered some 1080 from admiral steel. My heat treating equipment is a k type thermocouple that I place inside a 2"x3" steel rectangle tube that I insert into my 3 burner propane forge. The blade and thermocouple are located inside the steel tube, and kept out of the flames (tube acts like a heat buffer). I found that by manually turning the propane on/off I can keep the temperature +-10 degrees. What is decarburization and how can I tell if I've experienced that? I did notice some strange pattern on the metal after grinding the scale off. I'll have to look into antiscale compound
  11. So I buy some vinyl stickers, but out some runes, stick it to the blade, and etch with ferric chloride. I guess that doesn't sound too difficult.
  12. Multiple people in this forum post suggest long soaking times for O1: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/883107-O1-Soak-time-and-canola-oil-quench-temp I had already sanded out the vertical grinding lines, but hadn't rounded the corners or anything like that. What steel should I try next that is more forgiving? 1084?
  13. I'm looking to add runes to a blade similar to the way that the maddwarfworkshop does it. example here: http://maddwarfworkshop.com/knives/dwarvenminers.html What is the easiest way to do this? Is it engraved with a graver? Hot or cold chiseled? Ground with a dremel? Etched? I'm looking to antique the blade with bleach/super blue, but I'd like the runes to be bright and shiny, so preferably adding them after the antiquing. Any advice?
  14. My first blade ever cracked during heat treatment. It's pretty disheartening as I spent a long time shaping/grinding etc. I don't have it with me to take a picture, but there are 3 small cracks vertically from the blade edge, maybe 6mm long or so. They go all the way through the blade as I can see them from both sides. Sorry, don't have pics at the moment. So I'm trying to figure out why this happened and how to prevent it in the future. Can you guys double check my process and give me any advice? The steel I'm dealing with is O1, which I bought because it was easy to get. My process i
  15. Yea, I think I'm going to scrap the propane idea and go with a heating element. I'm thinking the DURA 005681 from here: http://www.duralite.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=108 The heating element can output 3000-4000 watts, and is the most powerful heating element they sell. I was also thinking of using 1" thick kaowool @ 6 PCF for the liner, plus a pint of ITC-100. The internal volume of my oven is quite large at 4 to 5 cubic feet. Do you think this heating element will get it to 1600F in a reasonable amount of time? I'm not sure what the calculations would be.
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