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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Simon W

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    A whole lot of things!
  1. Bowie fighter for anti-poaching friend

    That turquoise(?) inset in the pin is a really nice touch!
  2. Axe identification (Help needed)

    This reminds me more of a Swiss halberd than an axe blade, it is certainly unique though!
  3. It sounds like the contact wheel bearing failed, but perhaps those with a Grizzly can give you better insight on possible issues & what sort of lifetime is reasonable for a contact wheel.
  4. Can't find "hammering" guide

    You can practice hammering techniques on plasticine too, it gives you very quick feedback if you're doing the technique properly, and you don't have to worry about the heat of the material. After that move to steel.
  5. Custom Santoku

    I really like that patina!
  6. Random pattern Damascus wakazashi WIP

    Super, the dimensions really help! My sense of scale was wonky on those first photos, it looked smaller than it really is. Looks good so far, but I'll let the more experienced guys around here chime in.
  7. Random pattern Damascus wakazashi WIP

    What blade shape are you looking to do, hira-zukuri or shinogi-zukuri? My initial thought is that it is a bit odd that the tang is angled up from the center axis of the blade so much. What are the dimensions of the blade?
  8. Drill bits.....

    Yeah, something is very strange there. Maybe anneal or normalize the blanks again & test again to rule out the steel as a factor?
  9. Friction Folder

    Wow, that is really nice! The shape & lines of the blade & antler are spot on!
  10. Coal forge: buy or run?

    Use Kijiji as a local price check, but in my part of Canada that looks like a reasonable price. The blower itself is around $200, and I've seen forges range from $200 to 400. You may want to consider the availability of coal & the time it takes to startup & shutdown a coal forge though. I'm really happy with my own, and there is certainly an aesthetic joy in using those old tools & the feedback you get from them. The short amounts of time I find to forge though, I've found my makeshift gas forge quicker to jump into a project, and certainly cleaner!
  11. Recent knives and stuff

    That ring is awesome, how did you do that!?
  12. Computer Assistance with Sword Design

    I would agree, AutoCAD is primarily a 2D program, very powerful for figuring out geometries to very exact precision but not that great at 3D. Revit is the go-to for 3D modeling (at least in architecture), but I know Autodesk also has Inventor as part of its suite of programs. I don't have any first hand experience with Inventor, but it seems to be a 3D program geared towards manufacturing & design of products; it may be worth a try. Unfortunately all of Autodesk's products are very expensive, and have various learning curves to operate them properly. There are options for light versions of Revit & Autocad, as well as student versions which are cheaper. You can download one month trial versions though, if you do want to give them a try. There are a lot of tutorials & FAQs out there to help you out if you are curious. Sketchup may be your best bet if you are looking for a quick & free 3D modelling program.
  13. Puukko-ish small knife

    Haha, I was thinking I should doublecheck that when I was writing the post. Obviously I didn't!
  14. Puukko-ish small knife

    After far too long I've finally managed to finish a knife! It's not quite the right geometry, but its inspired by the Scandinavian puukko. 90mm (3.5") flat ground blade of mystery steel (thinking way back I think its W1 or W2, not quite sure anymore), 105mm (4.25") maple handle finished with boiled linseed oil & polyurethane with a brass spacer. Next time I think I'll focus more on fit & finish; the blade grinding is still a bit coarse, the junction between the blade & brass spacer is sloppy & I'd prefer not to use polyurethane on the handle. I'm not impressed with boiled linseed oil so far, I think I was too impatient with it & didn't give it enough time to dry off & harden. I'll will tell you one thing, it carved through a 2x4 like butter! I'm actually quite surprised by how well it cuts. I'd appreciate any critiques you guys may have, thanks.
  15. WIP Yari Push Dagger

    Ugh, that sucks! At least you were able to save it, even if it is a bit shorter. I've heard of straightening before the quench or right after tempering while the blade is hot, but not after quenching.
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