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Everything posted by CEmory

  1. Though I dont usually read this particular news site, I found this article intersting and the first thing I thought of was to post a link here and see if you fellas had an idea to share with these researchers. And myself, of course lol. Im curious. http://m.huffpost.com/us/entry/55c83173e4b0f73b20b9c87d?
  2. This turned out to be epic dan. Kudos to you!
  3. thats so cool! Always loved ships from the age of sail. Ya'll must have had a great day!
  4. Fighting the Texas heat and losing

  5. well you either made those welds dissappear or pulled some camera trickery cuz I can't see 'em lol. I would love to see it's sister coming together! saw this on your blog awhile back and it was love at first sight. That celt comin out in me i suppose.
  6. Here's a video too from purgatory ironworks showing something similar.
  7. It'd be hard to see that thing coming at ya, nearly disappears on edge, great work. Any chance on a tutorial for that basket?
  8. This is looking great Dan! I had an older B&D drill that would do the same thing all the time, two handing it helped, but the risk of it snagging was still there. I do agree that you should try to weld it up sometime in the future. Would hate to have something happen to ya.
  9. here is the original topic Branson. Jesus, well done! Clean lines all around, quite a sight to behold.
  10. While not being able to build the furnace outlined above I have run a small scale test on this theory and found it promising. I doubly regret lacking pictures, but I will explain as well as I can. using scrap pine I filled a small container full and punched a single hole in the top to vent the gas, then placed it at the bottom of a large coffee tin. I then used broken up pieces of flagstone (cuz its what I had) to build supports and a platform to both build a fire on and make two chambers in the tin. I was careful to leave only enough room around the edges for the gass to rise, but ensure no embers fell down. Beforehand I had drilled several holes around the upper portion of the coffee tin for air supply. This proved to be inadequate, as I soon found after lighting the fire. Because of this I could not seal the top of the coffee tin enough to keep the heat in and thus could not bring the temperature up high enough in the bottom to begin driving out the gas from the wood. I believe I will have to force air into the top chamber in order to keep the fire going, but the fact that the wood in the bottom chamber had gotten hot (hot enough that I could barely hold it in fact) tells me that with a little refinement the theory is at least sound. I will continue down this same path tomorrow and see what happens.
  11. Makes me wanna visit and with it being that hot it'd be just like being home
  12. I'm so jealous right now. Have a good time Todd!
  13. What a nice day's work Mark, L love seeing these sorts of posts
  14. Ain't it though! Somehow it slipped past my surfing, but I'm happy to see it now. +1
  15. the larger of the two in the first pic (assuming too that it is the same blade, but finished, in the second pic) reminds me a bit of them ol' straight razors, the angle at the bottom of the tang and straightness of the blade do it I think. I too am a bit 'eh' about forge finishes and second Doug on the blacksmith's knife, but thats just me. That style seems to warrant it to me. Otherwise all of these blades are quite nicely done. Hope my first few turn out so nice!
  16. I get old denim shirts and wear one over whatever I have on. Has to be older for me cuz I hate the stiffness. I have a couple thick Lapco shirts to that are nice too. Dont particularly care for welding shirts cuz they can be itchy, but I had a really nice Miller pigskin leather jacket that I loved. Looked great, was warm, but breathed a bit for the Tx heat, and weld burns hardly showed up. Rather cheap for what it was too, and like I said it was kinda stylish. Here's one to drool over. My link They also have one that only have leather sleeves and shoulders with the torso made of the same flame retardent material the welding shirts are made out of, but I went ahead and spent the extra cuz we had been in the middle of a bad winter that year. Didn't really regret it when it got hot either, but thats just me. Some might think it too much, but 50000 (j/k) welding burns later it still looked good enough to pass down for a hundred bucks after I had gotten injured and it was of no use anymore. **EDIT** Link and text added
  17. That's a great blade. Can't wait to see what it turns out like!
  18. missed a spot! lol. Im actually going the other way and growing it out myself. buzzed it years ago and kinda miss all the hair sometimes.
  19. I had to go back to look at the forge after I watched it! Its definately along the same lines though. Gives me some really good ideas on how to form up the hearth of this thing and here he has PLENTY of space between the sides of the forge and the 'cherry pot'. Gave me some darn good tips about how to proceed afterwards too, thanks for sharing Troy!
  20. For SCA or something that wouldn't take a beating, that would be fine and of course I'm all for traditional, I used this method too and still do to first form a piece because it is so plyable when hot, but with modern glues/resins you get VERY hard leather that can take a good beating for say....practicing with wooden wasters. I have never used resins myself though I heard some used the same used for fiberglass and as with glue I'm sure the piece would have to be dry. Again, just a different way of doing things. I like ur work btw, lol cruised your site for a few. **EDIT** And if you don't need to do alot of shaping then hardening with glue in just warm water will keep shrinkage to a minimum.
  21. Its pretty easy, honey is just expensive. I do it in one gallon batches so I can fine tune things for large quantities. 3-5 lbs of honey, spring water (I did one with filtered tap and its fine)grocery store yeast, but you should try better if you can, 25 raisins are all you realy need for a 'base' then you flavor however you want. Just search 'mead' and there is a site for it, just don't have a link anymore. All locked in da vault, Otherwise, yeah I'll get with you when I'm ready to bottle to start passing out 'samples' to neighbors. You can have 100 gallons of home brew wine for a single adult household, 200 gallons for a 2 adult, you just can't SELL any. But bartering isn't selling if I'm not mistaken. If memory serves that's nationally in the US, but it could vary by state so everyone check if you want to add this to your list of things to irritate the missus. Thankfully mine likes my cherry wine, 5.5 lbs of honey and sweeter than I'd like, but she digs it ok. SOMETIMES, but she don't trust me with it yet. Flavored it with kool aide, but I used Jumex for strawberry and concentrated apple juice for an apple cider. That puppy's long gone I've gotten a good buzz on a time or two with no ill effects, drink it otherwise pretty regular, but I sterilize everything several times during the process and rinse really well with hot water. Bleach is good enough, follow the directions on the label. And as I always say, just do it! lol
  22. Or learn like me and favorite this in the 'oops' folder for when I want to avoid the same Good luck working it out tho, I'm sure with a step back all will be revealed. Something in there just wanted to come out and when you didn't do it, it MADE you lol.
  23. Just takes that one excuse. Do it if you can I say, but thats just me
  24. I am starting my forge build and am having to do things on the cheap, but I have a bunch of flagstone that had been serving duty around the graden beds and figured it would serve as a good foundation on which to build. The location is odd as I want the rear to be protuding off of the poured slab of our former garage to both save space and add a little something to the small building that I plan on in the future. Now, to save a bit of stone (cuz I don't really have alot of large, thick pieces) I chose a spot on the back side of the foundation that had several inches of hill where sediment had built up against the siding, likely from the former's dog digging back there cuz it was a fairly large, if low hill with a big ol hole next to it. This dirt is obviously the same dirt they had hauled in to lay the nice large slab I have here because it gets nice and hard after a good soaking with the water hose and dries damn hard. I went ahead and sorta framed out what I wanted on the slab in the stone then filled it up with the same dirt cleaned free of most of the debris and packed it down until everything was level with my original hill that I had leveled beforehand and gave it a good soaking. My frame of stone is currently six to eight inches deep and composed of a single 'wall' of large stones set directly on the slab and ends at the original dirt hill. I plan on simply laying another frame on top of the original hill and building up a short wall to fill with some more dirt. After I get to a height I like, tapering inward a bit as I go, I'm going to burn a bunch of stuff in it to get a bunch of ashes and pack them all in there. I'm having to work with all natural materials, red clay mixed with ash and sand will be the morter for this stage. So my questions are, how am I doing so far? Should I have made everything level with the slab, or even built up a more proper foundation for the rear 1/3 that will protude off the slab? I'm 6' and want this to end at perhaps hip height to the be built up slightly further with the rest of the forge, is this too high in the end? And either way can I fill this 'base' halfway with dirt or more then pack ashes in the rest? I want it to last as long as possible, so should I mix something with the ashes to make them firmer and thus more durable? Maybe lay down a gravel base before adding the ashes, too? Could I use the flagstone to build up the forge itself, enclosed save for the front with a short-stacked chimney towards the rear, not too wide, 8 inches, maybe 9 square at the opening and long enough to eventually get a sword into. Should this be bigger? I'm going to put with some sort of refractory on the inside, but again have to do it natural. I have a bunch of broken ceramic tile that I was thinking of turning to powder and mixing with my clay/ash mix, or if I could just use some of the bigger chunks to line it I will, but if I HAVE to buy some portland I guess I can sneak the boss' wallet out of her purse, lol. NOT! But I'll tell her I'll make her a steel rose soon and maybe I'll get points for trying. What I'm worried about is the stone the forge is made of cracking. I've flintknapped in the past and heard that while this stone is not really favored for it, with a good cooking it can become glassier and thus worked with patience to those wanting a challenge. Should I maybe do a slow bake on the particular stones making up the forge to toughen them up a bit before building? There will be a small ledge to the left side as well to accomidate a Japanese style bellows and maybe a little more. This will be made of the same stone of course, ending at the forge wall and it will be a side blown forge. Could I form the airways out of something I could remove and mold them out of my refractory, whatever that ends up being, leaving the hollows when I removed my mold? If not, could I drill a bunch of holes in a capped gas pipe and manage with that? Hard to explain how I'd do this lol, but if I could I would be able to rig up a way to manage the airflow with some sort of plunger like insert running through the pipe so I can shut off the air where it won't be used. Like at the rear of the forge for a while yet And lastly, should I form a 'ditch' for lack of a better word atm, for a firebed or should I just leave the bottom of the forge flat with a lip at the front? If anyone could maybe supply a picture or two of some old (or new, lol) stone forges that would be awesome too, but don't go hunting for 'em on my account. I've done searches, but only found a couple and they were not so great. And as a side note, working with this stuff is hard! I've had ALOT of trouble with shaping it because it flakes off so easily, being formed in layers, and I don't have access to a diamond blade to cut the stuff with. I'm going to try to score it with a regular saw, but I'm afraid I'll just end up ruining a blade. Good thing I have one on its last ropes! Thanks in advance for any suggestions, I probably didn't get everything in here so I'm sure I'll have more questions. ~C **EDIT** I realized there are some odd issues with this build, but it is not going to be there forever and will be replaced with a better one asap. Just an effort to keep my wife/the neighbors happy with a 'not ugly' forge. :/
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