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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Eric Dennis

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Eric Dennis last won the day on July 28 2016

Eric Dennis had the most liked content!

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    Blacksmithing, Smelting, Rock Climbing, Running, Exploring, Drawing... to name a few
  1. Bandsaw Hydraulic?

    I opened up the original that supposedly didn't work- filled it with hydraulic fluid (it had only a few teaspoons inside. Closed it up with a little teflon tape on the threads, and voila! So far it's as good as new. No external leaking that I can see, and the internal gasket seems to be holding as well. Glad that worked...
  2. Bandsaw Hydraulic?

    It's a self-contained unit powered just by gravity and the weight of the machine. I actually got hold of the old busted one. I think I can fix it up. Either there is a busted o-ring or the cylinder was simply never filled. I'm gonna try re filling and see what happens. If not then https://www.surpluscenter.com/ has a bunch or else I'll try checking mcmaster. Thanks!
  3. Bandsaw Hydraulic?

    I just bought a used grizzly G9742 horizontal bandsaw for a good price. This one: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9742/parts The problem is, it no longer has the hydraulic cylinder that allows the saw to automatically lower. Buying a new one from Grizzly apparently is almost $200.00!!! Does anyone know of a place to buy cheaper parts that will fit this machine? It would be MUCH appreciated. Best, Eric
  4. Where can I get 1084 steel?

    Here: http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/1084hc/
  5. Fabricated Coal Forge / Hofi Style Chimney / Tuyere

    Ah, angle iron is a great idea! Thanks
  6. Fabricated Coal Forge / Hofi Style Chimney / Tuyere

    Alan- What thickness is the sheet metal on the table of your forge? So far I wish I had gone beefier. I went with 1/8" sheet for costs sake, but already have some warping from heat. Oh well. I guess I can always switch it out later on.
  7. Fabricated Coal Forge / Hofi Style Chimney / Tuyere

    I fired the forge up for the first time today. Jeez, what a world of difference! The chimney pulls hard right off the bat. The clinker breaker works better than I imagined- It really opens up the air once the clinker forms and grinds up pieces that have lodged down in the bottom. Because as the ball moves up it chokes the air flow, I am able to sort of micro manage the quality of air coming into the fire pot, which I foresee being useful. It even sort of changes the shape of the air coming in. I was able to get it to welding heat in no time. I still need to get used to it, but look forward to finding it's quirks. A little more tweaking needed, but for now some photos of the maiden voyage:
  8. Fabricated Coal Forge / Hofi Style Chimney / Tuyere

    Haha, that's awesome about the draft sucking up coals.
  9. Fabricated Coal Forge / Hofi Style Chimney / Tuyere

    I have enough pipe for 12' vertical currently. I'll post some photos of it once it's cooking.
  10. Since you guys helped me decide to fabricate a fire pot and table vs. pay a bunch of money I thought I would post some photos my process in building a new fire pot, table, chimney, and tuyere/clinker breaker. One of my goals was to make this entire build as collapsible as I could to make it easier to move in the future. I decided on a table measuring 48" x 24" based on my space requirements. Next step: Designing the fire pot. I spent a long time micro-adjusting measurement to try and get a design I was happy with. The result is 10" x 8", not quite 4" deep, 2.75" diameter hole. Cardboard first. 3/8" plate second. I really wanted to try a clinker breaker design similar to the ones in Angele firepots. I've been using the "spinny triangle" clinker breaker for years and although it works, I wanted to try something new. The issue in design, however, is that because the clinker breaker moves straight up and down, the rod attached to the ball must be directly underneath the hole where the ash dump usually is. So my design is to have an offset ash dump which meant some funky fabrication. The ball moves up and down. The theory is that the ball pushes clinker up a bit to allow air flow into the coal and at the same time crushing smaller bits between the ball and the walls of the hole. We'll see what actually happens. Meanwhile... figuring out the correct location for the pivot holes underneath took some trial and error, but it works pretty smooth now. The railroad piece acts as the weight to pull the ash dump back. up I figured while i was at it I might clean up my hand crank blower that will be attached to this forge. Here are some glamour shots post cleaning, oiling, and painting the legs. There is some really beautiful gearing in there. Finally, I really want to try the Hofi style side draft as seen here: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23197-bp1048-side-draft-chimney/ It's 4' long, made from 1/8" sheet, and measures 12"x12". The vertical round pipe will be 10" diameter because I have a bunch of it lying around and that stuff is expensive. So we'll see if I wish I had gone larger. After a high-temp paint job along with some stove-black here's the whole set as it stands now: Thanks for looking. Critique and comments welcome of course.
  11. Puukko and pocket knife

    Gorgeous! I really like the touchmark showing through the hole in the handle. That's a nice detail.
  12. New Knife: 80CrV2, Cherry, Rosewood

    I treated it more or less like i do 1084. Quenched in veggie oil that I warmed up. I ended up getting a really thick layer of decarb with super tough steel beneath, which other people seem to get with 80CrV2 also. This steel is really forgiving in the forging (I find) and moves under the hammer relatively easy. The heat treat seems pretty forgiving as well. And the result is a really nice balance of toughness and hardness. Once normalized or annealed it drills easily. Right now it's my go to steel for most knives and woodworking tools as well like adzes and chisels. Here is a thread specifically about the steel:
  13. New Knife: 80CrV2, Cherry, Rosewood

    Good idea. Thanks!
  14. Hello, I just finished this commission. The steel is 80CrV2. Scales are black cherry with brass pins, and the saya is rosewood. Thickest part of the spine is 3/16" with distal taper is both directions. Some parts i'm not too thrilled about, some parts I am pretty thrilled about. Still working on getting a clean plunge-line, which is always hard for me. Total Length: 9.5" Blade Length: 4" Thanks for peeking,
  15. Wow, coolest thing I've seen in a while. Thanks for sharing. I especially like the process shots.