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Eric Dennis

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Everything posted by Eric Dennis

  1. I opened up the original that supposedly didn't work- filled it with hydraulic fluid (it had only a few teaspoons inside. Closed it up with a little teflon tape on the threads, and voila! So far it's as good as new. No external leaking that I can see, and the internal gasket seems to be holding as well. Glad that worked...
  2. It's a self-contained unit powered just by gravity and the weight of the machine. I actually got hold of the old busted one. I think I can fix it up. Either there is a busted o-ring or the cylinder was simply never filled. I'm gonna try re filling and see what happens. If not then https://www.surpluscenter.com/ has a bunch or else I'll try checking mcmaster. Thanks!
  3. I just bought a used grizzly G9742 horizontal bandsaw for a good price. This one: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9742/parts The problem is, it no longer has the hydraulic cylinder that allows the saw to automatically lower. Buying a new one from Grizzly apparently is almost $200.00!!! Does anyone know of a place to buy cheaper parts that will fit this machine? It would be MUCH appreciated. Best, Eric
  4. Here: http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/1084hc/
  5. Alan- What thickness is the sheet metal on the table of your forge? So far I wish I had gone beefier. I went with 1/8" sheet for costs sake, but already have some warping from heat. Oh well. I guess I can always switch it out later on.
  6. I fired the forge up for the first time today. Jeez, what a world of difference! The chimney pulls hard right off the bat. The clinker breaker works better than I imagined- It really opens up the air once the clinker forms and grinds up pieces that have lodged down in the bottom. Because as the ball moves up it chokes the air flow, I am able to sort of micro manage the quality of air coming into the fire pot, which I foresee being useful. It even sort of changes the shape of the air coming in. I was able to get it to welding heat in no time. I still need to get used to it, but look forward to finding it's quirks. A little more tweaking needed, but for now some photos of the maiden voyage:
  7. I have enough pipe for 12' vertical currently. I'll post some photos of it once it's cooking.
  8. Since you guys helped me decide to fabricate a fire pot and table vs. pay a bunch of money I thought I would post some photos my process in building a new fire pot, table, chimney, and tuyere/clinker breaker. One of my goals was to make this entire build as collapsible as I could to make it easier to move in the future. I decided on a table measuring 48" x 24" based on my space requirements. Next step: Designing the fire pot. I spent a long time micro-adjusting measurement to try and get a design I was happy with. The result is 10" x 8", not quite 4" deep, 2.75" diameter hole. Cardboard first. 3/8" plate second. I really wanted to try a clinker breaker design similar to the ones in Angele firepots. I've been using the "spinny triangle" clinker breaker for years and although it works, I wanted to try something new. The issue in design, however, is that because the clinker breaker moves straight up and down, the rod attached to the ball must be directly underneath the hole where the ash dump usually is. So my design is to have an offset ash dump which meant some funky fabrication. The ball moves up and down. The theory is that the ball pushes clinker up a bit to allow air flow into the coal and at the same time crushing smaller bits between the ball and the walls of the hole. We'll see what actually happens. Meanwhile... figuring out the correct location for the pivot holes underneath took some trial and error, but it works pretty smooth now. The railroad piece acts as the weight to pull the ash dump back. up I figured while i was at it I might clean up my hand crank blower that will be attached to this forge. Here are some glamour shots post cleaning, oiling, and painting the legs. There is some really beautiful gearing in there. Finally, I really want to try the Hofi style side draft as seen here: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23197-bp1048-side-draft-chimney/ It's 4' long, made from 1/8" sheet, and measures 12"x12". The vertical round pipe will be 10" diameter because I have a bunch of it lying around and that stuff is expensive. So we'll see if I wish I had gone larger. After a high-temp paint job along with some stove-black here's the whole set as it stands now: Thanks for looking. Critique and comments welcome of course.
  9. Gorgeous! I really like the touchmark showing through the hole in the handle. That's a nice detail.
  10. I treated it more or less like i do 1084. Quenched in veggie oil that I warmed up. I ended up getting a really thick layer of decarb with super tough steel beneath, which other people seem to get with 80CrV2 also. This steel is really forgiving in the forging (I find) and moves under the hammer relatively easy. The heat treat seems pretty forgiving as well. And the result is a really nice balance of toughness and hardness. Once normalized or annealed it drills easily. Right now it's my go to steel for most knives and woodworking tools as well like adzes and chisels. Here is a thread specifically about the steel:
  11. Hello, I just finished this commission. The steel is 80CrV2. Scales are black cherry with brass pins, and the saya is rosewood. Thickest part of the spine is 3/16" with distal taper is both directions. Some parts i'm not too thrilled about, some parts I am pretty thrilled about. Still working on getting a clean plunge-line, which is always hard for me. Total Length: 9.5" Blade Length: 4" Thanks for peeking,
  12. Wow, coolest thing I've seen in a while. Thanks for sharing. I especially like the process shots.
  13. Yeah, I'm pretty certain it was a decarb issue. Everything seemed super hard except for the edge. Glad to know about this for the future. Thanks,
  14. Cool, I'll look for that thread.
  15. I was using declosence and a magnet to judge temperature. It was a bit above non-magnetic at quench. I did some light grinding and I'm pretty sure it was decarb. Tomorrow when I have more time I will know more and report back- maybe with a picture as well. I will look into soaking this steel for future heat treats as it seems that's whats working for people.
  16. Not for longer than 20 seconds.
  17. I just tried hardening a blade out of 80CRV2 in warm canola oil. I've used it before with fine results, but this one turned out a little funky. I used a pipe in my ribbon forge so the atmosphere was pretty perfect. Normalized three times and quenched on the 4th. At first it seemed good, but a file seemed to bite into the edge a bit more than i'm used to. I decided to go for a second quench. Warmed up the oil more until it was quite warm to the touch, did two more normalizing cycles and a quench on the third. It seemed a bit harder, but again the file bit into the edge a little more than makes me comfortable. The spine seemed much glassier than the edge, which makes me feel like the edge should have hardened too. At this point I'm thinking it might be a very deep decard layer. The spine thickness at its thickest is 3/16" and the edge is quite thin: 1/32". I haven't yet ground down to see if it hardens up deeper down. I notice someone earlier in this thread mentioned this might happen with this steel. Any one else seeing this? Thanks, Eric
  18. Neat. That looks pretty slick. The rivet forge I've been using has an arc to the bottom and the air hole is just in the bottom of that. I modified it by building it up flat and building a fire pot out smelting clay. It's worked really well, and better than the rivet forge prior to this modification. That said, i'm getting inspired by reading about people's different designs.
  19. Thanks for the replies. Alan, you mentioned steel firepots. What is your opinion on self-fabricated ones?
  20. So... After years of using a modified rivet forge I want to build my own forge for burning coal that is more functional and hopefully one that holds a better fire. I have plans for the forge body and chimney, but I'm still undecided about the firepot, so Instead of asking about a specific design I would love to hear folk's opinions on what they recommend... I want you to defend your firepot! Do you prefer cast iron? Side drafts? Swedish styles? Whatever it may be I want to hear what you like about a specific design in the hopes of gaining some insight. I'm not currently interested in hearing about gas forged. I've build a ribbon burner forge and love it, but ultimately solid fuel is where my heart is. Much appreciated, Eric
  21. Hmm.. not sure why the pages wont load. I'm seeing them fine. i used Mizzou for the burner. It's been phenomenal and has withstood thermal shock heating up from below 0 Fahrenheit to forging temps consistently without any cracking or breaking down. I used kast-o-lite 30 for the forge interior and have had some cracking in various locations, though none of which has been structural damage. In the future I want to make an even smaller forge and I am considering using mizzou for the interior as well on that one. The con would be losing some insulation that the kasto-0-lite is superior in providing. Since finishing the forge I've removed the kiln shelf floor completely. It just broke into multiple pieces and flux ate away at it quickly. Not quite sure what that's all about yet, so I might try again with that.
  22. I built a ribbon burner about 6 months ago. Here's the build thread with a lot of questions answered by the experts over there: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/50761-questions-on-ribbon-burners/ I weld mild steel in it at 1-1.5 psi tank pressure. Normal forging is usually .5-1 psi. I've never used a venturi, but it sure beats my older blown forge I was using.
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