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Eric Dennis

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Posts posted by Eric Dennis

  1. Hey! Not trying to "steel" the thread at all because your axe is super beautiful! I really like the overall shape of it and how far out it extends. I did a very similar thing with a damascus axe- it ended up looking similar, but with slightly fewer layers I think.

     

    Looking forward to see your final etch on it!

     

    Axe Twist.png

     

    Axe 1.jpg

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  2. I've made my own mosaic pins without a vacuum- I can attest to it being a bit of a pain. The trick I found is finding the right size syringe so that you get a really tight fit around the tube (I even used a bit of sculptey around the connection to ensure it was airtight and strong), but even more importantly- warming the epoxy a bit in the syringe to decrease viscosity. Note, however, that warming the epoxy will decrease working time pretty considerably I found.

     

    In the example below I put just a bit of epoxy just on the end of the square tube to prevent epoxy from filling it and thus making it hollow.

     

    DSC01912 EDIT Small.jpg

  3. How did you go about polishing the inside? I'm curious because I tried doing a pattern welded bowl with an interior arc quite small and it was a real pain. I ended up putting a flap wheel in a drill press and going from there.

     

    It's very beautiful, and the stars came out crisp.

     

    Eric

  4. I'm hoping this is the correct subforum-

     

    Anyway, I've mostly used to coal, but recently I built an insulating brick propane forge. I've noticed that my steel looks a bit burned on the outer, thinner parts after repeated heats. It crinkly like it's being oxidized (I guess it is).

     

    The thing is, I'v got it dialed to the point where there are dragon flames just starting to come out the opening. Shouldn't this indicate a reducing atmosphere in the forge, and thus the steel shouldn't be oxidizing? Perhaps?

     

    The forge is built with a single forced air burner that is in the center of the forged and aimed directly down at the silicon carbide floor. Is excess oxygen simply hitting the steel in the "hot spot"? Any thoughts? do other people experience this?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Forge1.JPG

     

    Forge2.JPG

  5. This is great! I'm about to start making a flat hand adze for someone so it's great to see someone else making woodworking tools too! Beautiful tools, the plane in particular catches my eye. Is the scorp bevel in or out? I can't quite tell.

     

    Eric

  6. The soft bricks I have are rated for 2800F, should be fine I imagine. I already have a small amount of ITC from a previous project so for now I'll use that- but in the future I plan on trying one of your alternative products because, no, I don't want to pay that much.

  7. Hello,

     

    If applying ITC-100 to an insulating brick is it advantageous to first coat the brick with a refractory? I know that you want to do this when coating ceramic wool, but the brick is already a rigid surface. Will the ITC stick OK to the soft brick when applied in the normal fashion?

     

    Thanks in advance,

  8. To restate what Joshua said- if you want a bigger billet and your welding by hand- do two smaller ones then weld them together, therefore giving yourself just a single weld to worry about.

     

    I've also had issues in the past getting wood-bandsaw blades sticking to each other. They welded fine to file and mild material, but be careful layering them next to each other. Same goes for leaf spring material.

  9. That's a pretty thick billet for welding by hand- It's h going to be hard to get the compression you need through the entire thickness. I can't quite tell whats going on in your photos, but are the lines in the center of the bar? It looks like they are. I would focus on a smaller billet to start- 1"-1.5" thick, and forge it HOT.

  10. You got it- if your initial welds are good, work at or ideally just below welding temp. While drawing it out, as soon as your steel drops below those temps stick it back in the fire. If your hammering and you see a line appear that looks like the beginning of a delamination, throw some flux on it and get it back in the fire before scale can form in there- then re-weld it carefully.

  11. Hmm. Good point about not necessarily needing a gauge. I guess it can be a reference point though- so if something changes I can refer to how the forge ran at a certain psi. Not necessarily important in the short term though. The forge is forced air, so I would prefer a set up with a gauge not more than 20 maximum psi. I figure if I'm going to have a gauge, a 1-10 or 1-15 psi range would be better for accuracy when I'm trying to dial it in the under 5 psi range.

  12. Hello,- I'm working on putting together a forge and am looking at propane regulators. I don't know a ton about this stuff so bear with me. If I get a regulator like this, can I put a gauge down the line from it since there is no port on this particular regulator? How does one add a gauge to line? Can it simply screw into a T-Fitting of some kind?

     

    Help me shed some light on this conundrum.

     

    Thanks,

  13. Hello,

     

    I have located what seems like a great deal- a Bader BM-2 with all sorts of wheels and attachments. The owner claims good condition. Is there anything I should look out for with these machines? How do they compare to the newer B3s? Are they compatible with B3 parts? Looking for any info I can get before jumping.

     

    Thanks in advance,

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