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Eric Dennis

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Everything posted by Eric Dennis

  1. Hello, I've been thinking about making a gas forge- but just noticed this in my area on craigslist. I want to put it out there to you all: are nc tool co. forges alright in performance and design? The price doesnt seem too bad, but it's hard to tell how old this thing is by the pics. I'm guessing those are venturi style burners? Would it be more worth my while to just start making my own? https://vermont.craigslist.org/tls/5684914315.html Thanks Eric
  2. Hello, I'm recently made a pretty heavy duty guillotine tool for myself. I made some simple fullering dies for it out of mild steel, but as I plan on making other die shapes I'm wondering what others use for steel material? Is mild steel fine? Should I go for a higher carbon content? Should they be hardened? What do you use? Thanks in advance, Eric
  3. Thanks, I will try this. I may not have neutralized well enough.
  4. Hello, I recently finished a small pattern welded bowl (an experiment to see how far I could stretch the material). I have a large santoku made from the same billet: Wrought, L6, and 1084. I have yet to polish and etch the knife, but after etching the bowl the wrought iron in particular has started rusting pretty quickly, especially in the pits and blemishes. My questions in preparation for finishing the blade: is simply oiling the best way to prevent this? Is there some other technique? Also, is there a way to get rid of the rust in the bowl without messing with the etched pattern? Thanks in advance- Eric
  5. Also, I asked over at anvilfire and here is the response I got from the guru's den: "Steel Rule Die Steels : Universal – H60 and H75 – hardened tipped 3pt rule with hard or extra hard bodies. Fe, C .40-.60%, Si .10-,50% Mn .10-.80%, Cr 0-.40%. Mo 0-.10%, Ni 0-.2%, V 0-.05%, Al 0-10%, Cu 0-.20%, S & P Trace. . . ./docs/bohler-steel-rule-datasheet-page-1.pdf The above is the brand and specs for a very common steel rule die material. The small amount of nickle does not seem like it would make much difference in an etch."
  6. Sure thing- i'll post pictures when I get to it. I'm going to see how it forge welds to 1084 as well.
  7. Wow, thanks for the info. The stuff I can get is pretty old- likely decades at least. I don't know if they used different steel compositions then or not. I'll do a hardening test and etching test on it I guess.
  8. Hey, I have a source for industrial steel material (it is in a big roll sort of like a bandsaw blade) that would fit into a die in a fabric factory. Apparently (the machinist who has this stuff) says that they would bend the steel which is sharp on one side into a press that would fit a curve of a piece of fabric they wanted to cut. They would stack up hundreds of sheets of the fabric and press the die with the blade through it all- achieving the desired curve. Does anyone have info on what the material could be? It's definitely high carbon (spark test & super bendy). It's homogeneous (no bits welded in as far as I can tell). Approx. 1" wide and as I said, is in a huge continuous roll. I can upload a picture of the stuff though I only have a little cut off piece right now I might do a test with. The hope is it will show up light in color when laminated with something like 1084. Thanks in advance!
  9. That is really beautiful... and the curves make it look a pleasure to use. How does a mustard finish work, if it's not too long to explain?
  10. First off- I understand this isn't strictly about bladesmithing... however, I was working on metal when this problem arose... and blades are also made of metal... is this even the correct board? Apologies if there is a better location. I have been asking around and haven't found a straight answer yet to my question so I figured I would put it to others that likely also use oxy-acetylene torches. So, I was heating up a large piece of steel with a rosebud tip and seem to have broken the 1/7 rule. When I turned the torch off I immediately noticed the smell: acetone. I looked closer and noticed a reddish greasy liquid bubbling at the tip. Acetone seems to have been pulled up during the high pressure heating. Given that I now have gooey acetone in the regulator and hoses. I understand this is a BAD thing. But, my QUESTION is: how bad? is my acetylene diaphragm (and hoses?) slowly being eaten away and it's just a matter of time before I blow myself up? Is there any effective and safe way to clean this stuff out or do I need to re-build the regulator / buy a new one? I've asked a few people online and to my local machinist and their answers were sort of vague. Any advice that isn't vague? Thanks in advance, Eric
  11. When you say boil the blade, you mean pull it out of the ferric and immediately into boiling water? Someone else recently mentioned blow drying the steel to set the oxides. What are the steps you take to set the oxides with water?
  12. I am curious if anyone has a more complete answer, but from my experience differential tempering tends to create a gradient of effect on the final pattern. For that reason I now temper the whole piece in the oven to get an even final pattern...... or maybe I'm crazy.
  13. Could you describe the technique or post a link? Im curious. Thanks, Eric
  14. Thanks so much for the info on your process. That's really helpful, especially how you set the oxides. Do they seem to wear away over time and use? Or are they fairly permanent at that point? Thanks again for showing your work,
  15. I think this is beautiful, I like the simplicity mixed with the wild twist patterning. I am wondering if you wouldn't mind sharing your finishing and etching process a little bit? How do you get such an intense, clean contrast? Eric
  16. Ha, you got that right about the different grips. I usually first pick it up eight inches back and each heat find myself inching forward a few inches until I'm holding the thing right at the neck, and my forearms are still burning. It's an old 8-pound sledge head I had lying around so I carved a handle for it. I find it's really useful for getting deep compression in the billet when a lighter hammer would be too much concentrated force with a higher potential for the layers shearing or not sticking like they should. Eric
  17. Thanks- An average size starting billet for me is approx. 1"x1.5"x4" , about the size my forge can handle without being pushed too much. I work pretty slow, so after cutting and re-stacking a couple times its usually 4.5 hours later give or take. I also use this little guy to help me out setting welds and doing some brute work: -Eric
  18. Hello, First of all I will introduce myself: In short, My name is Eric and I hail from The Green Mountain State. I use coal for fuel, arm-power for air and hammer, and I do all my forging outside under a little shed roof (which can be brutal in the winter ((despite the lack-there-of this year)). I am almost entirely self taught from books, this forum, and a whole lot of trial and error. On the note of "this forum", I have a whole lot of thanks to give out. When I started experimenting with pattern-welding I utilized these pages as my primary and frequent resource along with a few books that are amazing in their own right. The wealth of knowledge, passion, and generosity given for free by the members of this forum astounds me- there really isn't anything else quite like it. The inspiration I find here seems endless. So, thank you to those that make it possible and contribute. When I am not working on other metalworking commissions I practice bladesmithing, making hand tools for woodworking, and sculpture. Almost exactly one year ago I became obsessed with pattern-welded steel. I can't quite explain it, but I love the process- magic to say the least. Each piece seems to teach me more than last. Anyway, enough of that... here are some photos of recent work and a little info about them. I have a lot of process shots from the pattern welded blade if there is interest, but I won't post any here. I hope to continue to post and not just lurk as the questions never cease to emerge for me. Pattern Welded Blade: Total Length: 8.25" Blade Length: 4" Blade Material: 21 layers 1084 + recycled bandsaw blade steel Handle Material: Rosewood Copper Fitting & Brass Pin Pattern Welded Drawknife: Blade Length: 6" Blade Material: 252 layers composite recycled metal file and bandsaw blade steel. Handle Material: Walnut Steel Pins Pattern Welded Small Kitchen Blade: I had a lot of trouble with this, especially because the smallest nick to the Manzanita bark and it was gone forever. That also meant no shaping the sides of the wood. Also the etch came out super weird- I tried to fix it, made it worse, and gave up. More of an experimental piece I guess. Blade Length: 4.5" Blade Material: 252 layers recycled jackhammer bit and bandsaw blade steel. Handle Material: Manzanita Brass Pins Pattern Welded Small Blade: Blade Length: 3" Blade Material: 120 layer recycled metal file and bandsaw blade steel Handle Material: Curly Maple Steel Pins Thanks for taking the time to peak, Eric
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