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Steven Gillespie

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Everything posted by Steven Gillespie

  1. Im running a mini mongo as well. Milled slots help alot more with tuning and it running smooth, as well as tube length for the mongos. I have mine at 8" but it should be 9". Theyre very finicky to run without alot of back pressure. Mine will not run open without a flare and a firing.wall. If you didnt already, drop a needle valve into the gas tube, and it will give you tons more control over the burner. I use mine for heat treating, forging, forge welding, and on colder days, warming up the anvil. I would close the back permanently and leave a 3" opening and a hinged front.
  2. The inside of a saya has a slight curve inside. The longer necks also make it easy to clear you knuckles without having a steep curve in the neck.
  3. your welcome, do these have a convex belly, or rather a rounded grind?
  4. They look great. you didnt need to grind the side down a whole lot, but they look better that way i think. Having 6 isnt bad, different shapes and sizes at your disposal for different blades, i have only two, and i know i need way more than what i have.
  5. Freya, not yet, i didnt want to order any until i was positive it was fairly vivid. i had a sheet of red g10 and it was very bright, but i guess the black and red is overtaken by the black. Ive done everything to brighten the red, this is the best ive got, it makes the knife look evil, rather than out there and vivid.
  6. Hello, how's everyone? Been busy lately and haven't been on the forums a lot. Has anyone found a source of brighter g10 in 1/4" thickness and in red/black, or blue/black? I recently bought some sheets and was disappointed with how dull the colors were. I bought some od hreen and black and found it to have more color than the sheets I bought.
  7. I made one a month ago, had an old 80lb propane tank that couldn't get filled due to local places wanting a contract and leasing me a new one. Chopped it in half, after I filled it with soap and water first. I welded some railroad spike on the bottom for feet, inatalled a heating element and switch, sprayed sone marine grade rubber sealant on the inside, and its been doing pretty good so far. It takes about 15 minutes to take water fron 30°F to around 80°F.
  8. Perfect timing! I just picked up a dewalt version. Definitely alot safer than a cutoff wheel as well. Ill have to borrow you vice jig idea.
  9. Well, since it is under .8 carbon, it should be easier to heat treat than other alloys. I don't have a heat treat kiln, so no high alloy blades for me. Ill stick to 1095 and 52100. On another note, you could always send it off.
  10. compare it to A8 modified offered by latrobe steel, thats all INFI is with slight differences from batch to batch, its just got a name and a hell of a heat treat. I ordered the anniverary mean street for an EDC a week or so ago. im pretty sure that the "40 hour heat treat" refers to a cryo quench after the soak and air hardening, and the then tempering. Its just how long the entire batch takes to go from air hardened, to tempered, to cryo treated, then tempering after the blades reach room temperature. Aldo could carry the steel, but not under the proprietary name, and the exact same chemistry, but its doable, might be pricey as well, and a pain in the buns to heat treat.
  11. wow! its stunning, i cant wait to see it with the buckeye! I definitely have a new respect for the dremel tool now.
  12. Subscribed! you did fine, just dont use your wrist when forging!
  13. I don't have either. I forge from smaller stock, but it moves fairly well under my hammer. I have a heavy hand as well, but I finish forge with a 3lb forward weighted hammer.
  14. Thank you Kip! Its still got some kinks to work out, especially without a drill press right now.
  15. Clean up the plunge cuts with a file? I keep a cheap file on hand I ground the teeth of on flat and one side. It only cuts the plunge that way, and the grind when I want to clean it up. I use a craftsman as well, but I made a plunge guide to stop the plunge from doing that.
  16. It likes to be worked hotter than simple carbon steel. The scales sometimes will pop off when air cooling. I don't worry too much about grain growth, since you should normalize after each forging session. 52100 is great to work with once you get it down into a a pattern.
  17. It benefits immensely to know how it will be tested, like stated, will the test it for torsional, tensile, or all of the above? if i was making a blade from 1095 that needed max toughness, with a balance i would drop it down to within 58-59 RHc the benefit from cryo depends on your application, i would probably cryo- treat the section, only for the sake of retained austienite in the blade. For the bainite structure, it is true that is is the toughest structure for steel, but that is the Upper bainite, if i remember correctly, it has all the same properties as martensite but with the benefit of extra flexibility in the structure. It should be possible for 1095, but require more attention in the cooling rate, im not sure about the bainite tranformation point on 1095, but for most steels its with 400-500 F. you will have to look at the charts for it, to figure it out.
  18. it does look like a busse blade, doesnt it? i just went to town with the grinder till i found a comfortable handle. The tubes are off, my drill press is out, so i used a hand drill. ill probably drop the thong hole, maybe even the drop down on the front section of the handle. the drop point look shallow, ill take it back further on the next one. I never noticed the scratched, i finished on a 600 trizact. it might be left over from the 240 i didnt see when grinding. I plan on using 52100 on the others, its easier to work with, and easier on the wallet. I used chicago screws for attaching the belt loop, but the still arent as small as they should to keep it tight to the sheath, what do you suggest for securing it to the sheath?
  19. Hello, had some CPM D-2 left over, and decided to try to make a good EDC to make and sell to start taking knife making more serious. I need more patience on micarta, i think its a burn, but the green seems consistent on the layers. Let me know what you think, and if anything should be changed. The handle tubes are flared, in the photo they look like 3/8 tubing. I need better camera skills.
  20. thats another place, i welded my first cable i bought from them, you have to clean it from them as well. i found sand in my piece. it welded easily, almost no effort was needed.
  21. I think ill keep this quote on tab in my brain. Well said, Ric As for design/steel, my mentor told me that there is only one rule for our craft, he called it the golden rule, he was refering to the golden ratio i believe, and explained that every knife is designed and made revolving around its intent, and purpose. setting the steel aside, im not gonna heat treat my razors to chop down a tree, and im not gonna heat treat my axe to shave my face. Steel should be the last factor to complete the design, depending on ones preference, and its characteristics, some steels were never intended to become a blade, but still do.
  22. you posted in the wrong section. But as for cable, you can order it new, or find it used at scrap yards or old logging sites. i like new cable, but old is just as good, and more exciting, dont breathe the fumes though! I ordered new from http://www.hanessupply.com/, i ordered the regular right lay, since its the typical logging wire you would normally find. Old cable, ive gotten from an old logging site on my sister's boyfriend's property.i didnt find much that wasnt deeply rusted or sunken into the ground a few feet.
  23. Thanks! i will enjoy it, just gotta get my shaft and contact wheels first.
  24. Patrick, Thanks! my drive wheel is 4", the SFM should be manageable with that step pulley. i cant find the equation to figure that all out, but the motor is only 1725 RPM. I remembered my landlord has a shop thats well set-up, i might be able to convince him to thread and mill a shaft. Im really excited about getting a new grinder set up, im severly limited with my current little grinder.
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