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Michael Bergstrom

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Michael Bergstrom last won the day on January 25

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  1. This was pre-sealing and buffing.
  2. Also first time using vinegaroon and I'm a convert! Put two steel wool pieces in white vinegar in a pint size mason jar with a hole in the lid. Let it sit for a few days (I think it was a week), strained it out. Applied with sheep fur, neutralized with hot water and baking soda, then rinsed under running water. I'm shocked about the rich even color, seemed much easier to achieve an even color. That, and my whole goal with this project was no power tools, completely by hand and with historical methods....so it only made sense to color with vinegaroon
  3. Dirk needed clothes. Modeled the sheathe after some survivors. Wet formed the leather and sewed up the single seam on the back. Belt loop is wet woven in with the loop stitched as a saltire. Light tooling, and then colored with vinegaroon, buffed and sealed with beeswax. She's ready to head to her new home!
  4. This thing is fantastic. Light and agile in the hand and absolutely gorgeous. These pictures are a pale representation of what it is.
  5. Thanks Alan! I considered a deep etch and played around with it but it was a little jarring visually, I like the subtleness of polishing it back.
  6. Nearing completion now. Need to clean up the secondary fuller, sharpen and make a leather sheathe for it. OAL: 18.25" Blade: 14" Weight: 15 ounces. Full Length Some fun color in the ivory. Wrought iron pommel cap.
  7. Peen block. Testing fitting, you can see the more subtle pattern of the pommel cap now after polishing back a little. I just want the idea of the pattern there at the end, not heavily etched. Ivory tends to pick up a lot of gunk when it's not polished. Final shape is getting there.
  8. So, haven't been able to work on this in a while, had to finish up a couple swords and do some heat treating. Finally started working this week a little on it. after reviewing the photos, I noticed that the guard is actually bent. I didn't want to fire up my large forge, so took a crucible and my torch to heat up the guard piece. I creased ahead of time to get a good line, then hot fitted it to shape it over the blade shoulders (which I rounded down with a file). The potato acted as a simple heat sink for the fast fit so I didn't lose my tempering, it worked out great. I started cleaning up the pommel cap and starting to shape it, It's only at about 60 grit right now, but wanted a quick dip in acid to see if this batch of wrought had any pattern to it, I was not disappointed. Stopping point last night. I haven't really worked on the handle at all lately, though I'm starting to fit it to the guard now. I also started filing the guard to shape. Blade is now at a flat grind at 320 grit, and I'll be starting on the fuller today or tomorrow. It's going to be a hard fuller, it marries up to the spine, almost creating a T shape than has a skinny accent line down the along the fuller. Should be fun...
  9. He cleaned the blade, than used birchwood casey perma blue, he then soaked the blade in vinegar until rust formed, than put the blade in boiling water (in rust bluing it's best to use distilled water), then brushed it back.
  10. Super slow going. Starting to refine and thin up the handle, and started filing in the "thistle" pommel cap. Decided to go for wrought iron guard plate and pommel cap, so took some old wagon wheel and forged it down flat. This is the pommel cap design on the original. The cap appears to have a slight dome as well. The cap also seems to overhang the handle by a hair, but I think that's ivory shrinkage with age, and not intentional, so I think I'll go for flush. Drill baby drill, drilled my pilot hole a little smaller than the tang, then filed to fit. Where I stopped last night. (axe of perun pendant in the pic as well, it's my distraction piece right now, haha)
  11. I dont, I can try to find out. But I had to guess at dimensions based off of hands in other photos and averages for dirks.
  12. Someone contacted me about creating as close to the original dirk he saw on an auction site. I was the only smith that said I would build it out of ivory like the original, other makers were pushing for plastic or antler. This is is a photo of the original. First thing I wanted to do was find a piece of ivory to use, a solid chunk of ivory that size is very hard to find, thankfully, I live in Alaska and have a great resource for legal ivory (both walrus and mammoth). I knew that mammoth was flat out not going to work, as most isn't solid enough and would require stabilizing. I found a nice piece of "fossilized" walrus tusk tip that was solid enough. It's just a little shy for size by a mm or two, I consulted with the client and he said he was okay with that as he understood the limitations with ivory sources and just as long as it still flowed. I did a rough sketch up to get a rough idea of lengths of materials. I chose 1095 for the blade steel, mainly because I was running low on my regular 5160 and wasn't in the mood for 01. I also figured 1095 would be a little closer to the original steel used. I don't really have any photos of the forging, but it was pretty fast and basic. No problems in the heat treat everything went pretty smoothly. The blade blank after HT and Cleanup, checking profile against the picture. I haven't added the small fuller, rounded the shoulders or done any finer detail work on it yet. Checking to make sure I'll actually have enough material to do the handle. This piece of ivory is gorgeous, with a nice dense dentin. Starting to lay in the shoulders. I don't have the best ventilation or mask, and also can't afford to mess up with this material, so I'm not using power tools at this point, and might not use them at all on this piece just to be safe and not ruining anything. And where I stopped last night.
  13. Seattle! Wife got a job down here, so splitting my time between Anchorage and Seattle now, thankfully it's a fast, easy flight.
  14. My life has been all over the map the last few months, I relocated my shop which shut me down for a month, and then I really needed to focus on film work. But the shop is back up and running and wanted to share a few pieces I've been working on. I also have a WIP dirk I'll try and update as I build it further out, I'll start a new thread for that. I've really missed cruising the forums and working, but life is finally settling back down into a normal routine (or as normal as my life gets). But I like sharing and showing work. Still trying to build a lot of skills. First up, some swords! Type XVI. 5160 blade, mild steel hilt, handle is popular core, cord wrapped with a dyed leather covering. Pommel is concave with a peen block. Hilt has a patina to mimic case hardening. Migration sword. This has a story behind it. I built this with patina in the handle to match the blade. I did the weapons for the braveheart follow up called "Robert the Bruce" starring Angus Macfayden, Jared Harris, Zach McGowan and Anna Hutchinson, this blade was a hero blade used in the film. I kept all the original patina and edge damage that it took during the fight sequences. The blade was retired and I rehilted it when I got home. Materials are brass and oak burl with a bronze pommel cap, handle is diver salvaged oak from Lake Superior (Thanks Scott Roush!), historical construction with rivets and the pommel cap riveted on over the peen. Swiss longsword, big ol' blade, but the star is the handle. Gentle S curve with leaf details filed in, pommel is hollow ground with a brass rosette, handle is holly and brass. Some daggers and knives: Puuko inspired knife, Low layer blade, rosewood handle, ivory and brass. Roman utility knife with mammoth ivory handle. Dirk with Claro walnut burl handle and brass A modern knife, my buddy in film wanted a California compliant fixed bladed knife that would be perfect for use on a film set. Did some file work on the top and bottom and gave it a nice mosaic pin.
  15. holy crap I like this a lot. Right up my alley in terms of aesthetics.
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