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Hunter Lottsfeldt

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    Anchorage, Alaska
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    You guessed it
  1. Hey guys, Its been a long and eventful year, I thought it was about time to give everyone an update and finally share some of my work in stead of just lurking (maybe an occasional comment or two). As far as a story goes... Last year myself and another student forged a knife for the TMS blade smithing competition and with the help of some grad students in running tests... we won! Out of 27 other collegiate teams we got first place in the competition. I then also made a knife for a retiring materials science professor at OSU (Oregon Beavers). I then spent 3 months backpacking through Tanzania doing a NOLs program which culminated in summiting Kilimanjaro. Since then I have been involved in founding and trying to get the OSU Blacksmith club up and running, I've been trying to stock and help get students going on learning about smithing. I'm so grateful for the people on this forum, I have learned so much and felt this collection of people has done so much to both teach and inspire me. Thank you all. Sincerely, Hunter Lottsfeldt
  2. Sorry, despite being close to finishing I just figured out I'll have to put energy elsewhere for the next couple weeks, sorry guys . Rudolf Harmse 2. James Fuller 3. Gabriel R. Paavola 4. Emiliano Carrillo 5. Kevin Hopkins 6. John F. Ellis 7. Michael Lenaghan 8. George Ezell 9. Nate Runals 10. John Kruse-Kanyuck 11. Hloh 12. Dan Bourlotos 13. Derrick Phillips 14. Gary T. (jajimi) 15. Christopher Price 16. Juho S. Voutilainen 17. John Page 18. dylan holderman 19. Brian Dougherty 20. Tre Asay 21. Sean Finlayson 22. Isaac Myers 23. Dion Grethen 24. Dan Rice 25. Robert Dowse
  3. I think with everything on my plate I wont finish till the first week (maybe a half) of august. Is this not acceptable or will people be able to live with me being a week behind sending my knife off? I've no experience with this and don't want to step on any toes. Input would be appreciated.
  4. I'm totally in! 1.Rudolf Harmse 2.James Fuller 3.Gabriel R. Paavola 4.Emiliano Carrillo 5.Kevin Hopkins 6.John F. Ellis 7.Michael Lenaghan 8.George Ezell 9.Nate Runals 10.John Kruse-Kanyuck 11.Hloh 12.Dan Bourlotos 13.David Fischer 14. Derrick Phillips 15. Gary T. (jajimi) 16. Pieter-Paul Derks 17. Christopher Price 18. Juho S. Voutilainen 19. John Page 20. dylan holderman 21. Brian Dougherty 22. Tre Asay 23. Sean Finlayson
  5. Very cool! What is your process for etching cable? I've never seen cracks form post etching, but I dig the look it imparts. Are you planning on adding a liner?
  6. I believe the 5th picture is a socketed spear head. But I could be wrong. Great work though!! I love the seax, especially the boar shield on the handle. And the last sword is also amazing, whenever I see inlaid garnets I get a little shiver. Are they real garnets?
  7. Not to highjack the thread here, but I found it interesting that you recommend normalizing stock removal knives Jerrod. Most of what I have read say its unnecessary, though the way you put it definitely made me say "DUHH" of course the mill isn't giving me the most refined steel. But I was wondering if you could elaborate on the triple normalization. I know it is a standard practice for knives, but of the industrial literature I've read I don't see it ever mentioned above one normalization cycle. And the only explanation I've heard for three is that when a blade is forged that it introduces more stresses than what is common in an industrial setting.
  8. So I don't have all the data with me currently, but as part of an update. We ended up do the HT in the forge, for some reason when we did and quenched in canola oil that was fairly hot we got not glass hard, but still fairly hard (skidded across the blade for the most part). The problem we ran into though was a delam in the middle up the blade that puffed up like a blister. Our competition is almost over and afterwards I plan on making a more complete post on the events to let everyone know about the project and to thank those who have helped me and my team along the way. Look forward to seeing it in the coming weeks.
  9. Possible sure, I don't believe so though. I m pretty sure I kept it between the proper forging temperatures when forging. My team mate I am working with did the forge welding with a very experienced smith here in OR, so I don't have a reference if they operated at too hot a temperature. I totally agree, I have been hearing that since I bought the 1095. I am defiantly going to try it next time I go to weld up a billet. Thanks Kevin! Always appreciate the advice.
  10. Ok, I will try the brine quench and see if I can harden my sample. The weird thing I noticed was that the damascus sample didn't have any scale on it before I quenched it, unlike the 1095 which had a thick layer.
  11. So I got reliable results using 1/8 thick 1095 strips (2"x3/8"x1/8") I was getting an as quenched hardness of 64-65c. Though I tried hardening a piece of damascus (1095/15n20) the coupon is like an inch square and about a quarter inch thick and had at 825c for 10 minutes and then a 130f oil quench didn't harden it. I then tried upping the time to 15 minutes, nothing. I then upped the time to 25 and still got nothing. I didn't normalize in between. Is that the reason I was't getting a full hardness? I didn't think the piece would be that much greater volume. I'm kind of lost in what to try next... I also tried getting a tiny piece to harden to no avail using the same process as the 1095. So Im not sure what to try next. The one thing I noticed with the damascus pieces was a lack of decarb when I pulled both pieces out of the kiln. Is the 1095/15n20 mixture going to require a high temperature? Thanks for the charts Jerrod! As for the mixing of F and C I do all my work in an on Campus Lab, so most measurements are in C. Is grain refinement necessary to achieve a full hardening?
  12. So I have some updated info. I ended up increasing the size of the quench tank, and using a gallon of canola oil at 130F I quenched some 1095 sample coupons. I also tested the kiln and its within a degree of accuracy. I quenched at the stated temperatures. I put the pieces in the kiln while it was at temperature, waited for the kiln to get back up to temperature ( on average about 3 minutes) and set my timer for 10 minutes. (Took 3 Rockwell C tests of each sample) Unhardened -- 22, 25, 28 Sample 1 at 800C -- 41, 38, 41 Sample 2 at 810C -- 45, 45, 44 Sample 3 at 825C -- 45, 45, 44 Sample 4 at 835C -- 65, 65, 63 So my test spawns a few more questions. When we refer to soak time we are talking about the piece at temperature, but how long is the actual time in the kiln? Do you preheat the piece? And also can someone explain to me the science of why the hotter oil quenches faster or point me in the right direction? Thanks again for all you help! I am going to run another set of experiments to confirm my findings.
  13. Ok, this is making me think that the kiln is off. There was some de-carb but very very little witch makes me think that the blade is not reaching critical temperature. I think to be safe I am going to increase the size of the quench tank and run an inert gas purge through the kiln as well (the place I am using the kiln makes this cheap and easy). And yes I am testing hardness on a polished surface. Thanks Bruce and Alan! I'll update my findings as I get them.
  14. Thank you all for your responses! A little clarification, the cut off pieces being used are on the thicker side of a little under 1/4" but along with the cut off of 1095/15n20 I also put a little kitchen knife that is very thin that didn't harden as well. Though the knife I believe was 1075 (I'm not sure if the HT is analogous enough). Using the kiln actually produced very little scale. And the soak time was an hour. I know the nose is .5 seconds for 1095 but does 15n20 going to adjust what I should be doing for the HT? And I also will be taking a precise pyrometer down to test the kiln tomorrow, but given the amount of use it gets I think it should be precise. I also bumped the heat up to 1500 with an 1/8" sample piece of 1075 and still couldn't get a full hard. My plan of action is to increase the size of my quench tank and try a low temperature oil quench. But if that doesn't work my next plan is to forgo the kiln all together and use the forge. I am still very unfamiliar with the kiln and think it might be better to stick with what I know better here.
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