Jump to content

Josh A Weston

Members
  • Content Count

    439
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Josh A Weston

  1. I've been using the Jen-Ken Kilns Vertical Airbath kiln. It's different from Paragon and Evenheat standard kilns as it loads from the top and you suspend your pieces. I have seen a significant reduction in warpage with this kiln. I have a 24" Paragon and a 30" Jen Ken and I've tested same blades in different ovens and have found that the Jen Ken does a better job of reducing warps in the quench. If you want more info on them I have a link: shorturl.at/dfqF7 to some of their products. They are very competitively priced.
  2. It's leather and I molded it to shape by wet forming. Took about a day to get it like that, little water, molding and in and out of the oven on low heat.
  3. Oh yeah, I remember seeing the post(s) you made of that order. That was a lot of work. Turned out beautifully too. My machinist uncle made a new jig based loosely and more simply off the idea I posed earlier. He is on his way down from PA to help me try it out. Fingers crossed over the next couple days.
  4. This has crossed my mind and it may just be the best solution. It would be fairly easy welds to get consistently and sure would save me from a lot of upsetting work.
  5. It's not so much that you upset it to draw it back out to the same dimensions... it's more that upsetting it allows a more fluid transition to make a supported beard type with more graceful lines. When forged back to 7" it is quite thin in the upper cross section so that I can pull that full body down.
  6. Here is a sketch I made that I sort of animated by moving stuff around. Thoughts? pressconcept2_small.mov
  7. What is Ray's method? I have tried just spreading a spike without upsetting and while you can get a wedge tomahawk it's not a very wide spread and certainly not bearded. I do not like the bent tip and drawn either... that's more personal preference though.
  8. This is a great thought! I think I may have to try this. Yeah, the press really sucks the heat out of the head.
  9. That's an interesting idea. I haven't quite tried that yet.
  10. I have an opportunity to mass sell my railspike tomahawks with a distributor. For me to make the wholesale price worth it I will have to apply some press and jig forging. I have all but one press jig solved. I need a way to quickly upset a 6" spike from 6" down to 4"... I would settle for 4.5". I've made about 5 failed jigs now. Years ago (6-8) I saw a video of a guy that was doing this but I can't find the video and I can't remember any details very clearly. Does anyone have any ideas?! I have a week and a half to solve this problem to get the work. I need some help, please! You can see one of my failed ideas here: https://www.instagram.com/joshaweston/ This is my current by hand process: and the main format I follow: https://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/post/107518033964/how-to-forge-a-railroad-spike-axe-by-thepxsmith Thanks, Josh
  11. Beautiful piece! What's the final weight on that?
  12. Small world! I spent almost a whole day in that museum. I want to go back and measure all of these. Here is a shot of the info card but it was not very helpful for measurements. Thanks for posting what you have. That will help to get some proportions right for the next one.
  13. You know what, I didn't actually measure it. I was going for as close to a full flat as possible. I will have to measure the thickness of the cutting edge, which I left a little thick and convex. But the blade is 2" wide at the base with a flat grind from spine to the edge bevel. It's a pretty sweet design, I am looking forward to making more of them. Oh, and the sheath is just leather. I molded it with a sharpie end and a polished antler tine. Takes a bit of time but with the aid of some clamps, water and a heat gun it can happen.
  14. At least one of the seax guys said seax inspired, but it drives me so nutso when they say "Viking Seax" and it's clearly Anglo Saxon and even then it's more of a bowie... oh well
  15. That was going to be my initial blade choice but for various reasons that didn't work out. Mainly I didn't know what the targets would be and I was worried about the tip breaking cause, you know, a real broken back is more than just the 45 degree angle cut on the end we see all over the place. Had I gone with one I would have gone Sittingbourne profile... maybe not multi-bar though... well, maybe. Wrought iron spines are so good for absorbing impact. Yes! I will be bringing it to blade with me! I will be there Friday and Saturday. Hit me up on my instagram when you are there @joshaweston
  16. It was a good experience. I used the opportunity to test out a historically inspired design and that was awesome. Of course, I had to make some modern additions for safety reasons but I tried to stay somewhat true to form. The show needs to be taken with a grain of salt or a few beers. I will continue to watch as we do ge to see different blade shapes, geometry etc in serious action on some tough targets. So worth a watch for sure.
  17. Here are some screen grabs from my run on History Channel's latest show, Knife or Death (season 1, episode 4). I forged out a knife inspired by a set of CeltIberian War Knives I saw in Germany last year at the Reichstadtmuseum in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. I made a few modern modifications to it for comfort and safety. The forward lanyard hole, a bottle opener forged into the ring pommel and the rubber handle slabs to absorb impact. The knife worked really well. It is 80crv2 and has a cutting edge of 12.75" and an overall weight of 1lb 13oz and the blade is 2" wide at the base and 3/8" thick spine at the break. I was excited to try a historic weapon on such a brutal course. I think it is a great proving ground for knives and I am happy with how this knife style performed and handled. I was pleasantly surprised with how snug my hand felt with this type of grip. The ring pommel does a fantastic job at locking the hand in place and allowing it to grip for a solid chop and follow through. I would really like to get real measurements from the originals I found in Germany. If anyone has connections with that museum I would really appreciate any help. I'd like to make a more accurate recreation of this piece. Thanks for checking it out.
  18. Love the "wibbly, wobbly, timey, whimey" history of this piece. Excellent write up and fantastic artifact quality piece!
  19. Absolutely, f*@#ing incredible work! It's one of those posts that I wished would never end. Makes me want to move to New England to work with you guys. Such a fine piece. I love the edge bars and the carvings are just superb!
  20. What fantastic work! I really love how you brought both wolves to life.
  21. I have been doing some water jet blades using Aldo's 10 series and I have not needed to normalize. The blades heat treat well, have good flexibility and good grain structure.
  22. This is so fantastic and wonderful that it's hard to come up with a compliment worthy of the work, the writing and the whole process. Your work, your attitude and your thinking is an inspiration. Thank you for making this and continuing the spreading of knowledge and skill in this modern age. It looks like that sword is a pleasure to hold.
  23. I absolutely love this knife! You did a great job. I can't wait to see the sheath. I really like the butt cap and ring.
  24. I'll throw in my request for some .25" too. I have some projects that could use that in some multi-bar scenarios in bars I don't want layered steel. Makes a few tricky things less tricky.
×
×
  • Create New...