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Matt H

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  1. Thanks guys. Hopefully I'll have another piece or two to post in the next week or so. I've got one going with some O1 and another made from an old file.
  2. If you are ever coming through Canada, Windsor to be exact, contact me through here. I will give you my address.I have a large stack of 3 foot saw blades, the round jobs.They work like L-6 steel. Very hard and tough when finished.One should keep ya going for a while.No charge man, just pick it up....Tim

  3. Again, thanks for all of the advice! No worries on beating me up Doug, I would rather hear harsh facts than present anyone with inferior work (which is why the spike blades are going to stay with me, and there will only be two of them made). On the steels my current selections have been just a test group based on what is easily available, so they are all over the place as a direct result. Much more of a test group to see what I like the feel of and what processes work the best for me than any serious selection. The advice is very welcome because through these tests I have noticed that I have more interest in forging blades than removal methods. I have certainly noticed that the air hardening steels are hard to move, and have had some S7 crumble on me in a test run (consisting simply of heating and forging a bit). On the san mai, yes it sounds cool, and looks like it would work on paper. I was trying to use a reducing atmosphere similar to that used for forging mokume gane (thin walled box with charcoal to burn off excess oxygen, borax flux between the pieces). An experiment for sure, that I was attempting as a result of receiving a fair amount of S7 from a machinist buddy of mine. I'm considering abandoning it... As for heat treating, I am limited to a conventional stove (verified working temperature of 500 F with a separate gauge), which does present problems with many steel types (the long soak times of the S7 will require some contract work on the heat treat). Any and all advice is appreciated, as I am still searching for a solid forging steel. The 52100 seemed like a good one based on my reading. I haven't read up on the W series enough to be familiar with it. I will look into that book, I don't have anything specific to knifemaking. My current reading has been on general metalworking, forging and welding from a few various books in my collection, the machinist handbook, and of course the internet. Matt
  4. Thanks for all of the comments and advice guys! @ Dragoncutlery - I appreciate the peening advice, it will sure be useful on future projects! @ Doug Lester - Thanks for the heads up on stabilizing. I was reading up on that as I was making this knife, but had already peened and epoxied the wood and the processes that I read of did not seem like they would be a good idea in that type of situation. As for the steel, the first couple of knives I made are railroad spikes, but I have since read up on various steels and am in the process of testing some out. I currently have a blade that I am working on that is made of O1, and I have a piece each of D2, 440c and 1095. I'm also in the process of testing a S7/A2/S7 san mai. As for the remaining spikes I was planning on using them as the low carbon steel in my first shot at damascus. Does any of that sound like a winning solution? I enjoy the forging aspect of knife making and some of those steels seem as though they might work better with stock removal.
  5. Hello everyone! I'm new here to Bladesmith's, as well as bladesmithing in general. I wanted to post this quick little topic in hopes of receiving some opinions, suggestions and such on the second knife that I have successfully forged. Once I take some more photos I'll work backwards and maybe post the first one! This knife is forged from a railroad spike (1060 or so) with a bolster of 416 stainless. The handle is made from macadamia nut wood held by brass pins. On a side note, I had a lot of trouble finding info on macadamia wood, so I wanted to describe my experience with this piece in hopes to help anyone who might consider it. From the pieces that I have my experience is that it is kind of a soft wood that allowed the pins to move a lot more than I have had happen with others (osage orange, ironwood, paela, or cocobolo), which required a lot more work than anticipated in trying to peen them. I also found that this piece was very open grained and got dirty extremely easily. Now on to the knife!
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