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harry_r

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Everything posted by harry_r

  1. Anyone catch hillbilly blood "gold ol knife fight" on destination america? http://www.locatetv.com/tv/hillbilly-blood/season-3/8495741 Staged drama where the boys "home made knife business" is in danger from production blades. One makes a blade from a spike with forging, the other using stock removal from a saw blade. Besides tempering making things hard, and no heat treat shown, I found how he tried to cast a handle from melted brass to be odd. Not only did the brass not melt/work well but I would think the heat from such an operation would perhaps over temper the blade. I thought
  2. I live in the LA area. Canyon Country. Where be you?
  3. Very good info Alan, thanks a lot. Each time I think I begin to understand this all a bit more. One area that I am having trouble wrapping my skull around is: "the clay helps create turbulence in the quench that causes thicker parts of the blade to miss that curve from just enough not to harden all the way to enough not to harden at all." I always understood the thicker coating at the spine to be insulating rather than water jacket affecting, and heard that one could leave the edge clay free (normally a thin wash coat to avoid scale is used, I thought) and still get a hamon. I thin
  4. No expert, but worth all you paid for my input. given the test peice worked, and was from same stell, something had to go qwrong in the HT for the blade. Thoughts that come to mind are insuffencent heating, perhaps due to larger mass. Did you test for magnetic before quench? HTHs
  5. heal up and thanks for the reminder. Like all, I too have taken this time-saver shortcut but was spared the maming. Cheers
  6. Very nice. I love that fuller and the pattern weld. Thanks
  7. dig it. Thanks for sharing.
  8. To me, a loud grain can be a function of fewer folding steps using materials with high contrast, or simply more contamination/poorer forge welding, The hada changed over time so that in shin-shinto and gendiato can be muji hada (no hada). As I understand this was result of better steel with less slag and use of power hammers for better welds. The more its folder the more homogenous and finer the layers. That said i don't forge weld so wait for someone with good advice. Cheers
  9. I found some at the local OSH hardware (Orchard supply). We have no more ace stores.
  10. Yes, welcome! I had to link to my images; perhaps an issue of ignorance or insufficient post count. For the dents being hard to polish out, yes, normal. More so on a stone (fine), and more so if you are not skilled at hammering. I would suggest draw filing or a belt sander to get the blade smooth, say to 600 grit, before any stone work. I tried the traditional water stone route on stock removal so did not have any dents. Still, went through many a stone and hurt my hands. Now its angle grinder, draw file, sand paper. Done with stones. HTHs PS> Search for a thread I start
  11. Informative reply, J. Thanks
  12. Another great one. Love that hamon. Thanks
  13. very nice, I like the graceful lines of the bevel as its leaves the handle. The handle is beautiful, and the saya is top notch as well. Best regards
  14. Wow. Thanks for sharing. I wish I could carve soft metal let alone iron.
  15. Just fabulous. Great work.
  16. Throwing down with the others and saying "Thanks" for the great information sharing. Regards
  17. No expert, but from what I know, scale is oxides that form in the forge when the hot metal is exposed to oxygen. In effect rust. The scale is formed in the fire, not the quench, so oil vs water should not matter. Clearly a dip in water could lead to rust after the fact... The clay coating does help prevent fire scale. I found I lost my clay once as I insisted in burring it in the heart of the coals, trying to avoid oxygen. In the last try I just let the clay do its thing and laid the blade on top of the coals. HTHs
  18. I have not heard of the smith. I understand that shows like this need some level of 'drama" to keep mouth breathers engaged. Still, quiet day for me and figured I would see if folks wanted to discuss and/or help me to sanity check a few things. These comments stem from the show dealing with the "grim cleaver", 2nd episode I think. 1. He heat treats his blades with virtually 0 edge bevel, at least that is how it looked. I know thinner edges have risk of cracking, and he was not going for a hamon, but struck me as odd. 2. Not clear what kind of metal he used. But, a big plot device was
  19. very cool, great tutorial. Thanks much. I need to study case hardening more. As an aside, what do you do with these hammers? Are they pendants or such? Regards
  20. Thanks Matt. I did the rough polish with 125 grit. When all was done I no longer noticed the "circles" so perhaps it was a texture pattern. Thanks for the tips on possibility that clay was too thick. Best regards
  21. Good info, and sorry for the snap. In a recent DH hardening of an aldo 1075 tanto I found a bit of warp after quench. I tempered at 400, then clamped down, and used some boiling water to heat a bit while I straightened. I was waiting for the snap, but seemed to work ok. Perhaps due to DH vs. TH. Tried similar on a o1 tool steel yari, and broke the tip from too much leverage. That thing was springy and tough. Ended up regrinding the tip, normalize, and new heat treat. Here is a pic of the yari tip. Also seems a bit grainy, which is no surprise as I dont think I was smart enough to n
  22. came out nice. Thanks for sharing. What did you use for clay? Regards
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