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harry_r

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Everything posted by harry_r

  1. Thanks Brian for the added info. Does make me want to stock up on aldo's fine steel. I would prefer a longer tank, and on a previous (admiral 1075 attempt that cracked), I used a large tub, but it held so much water I opted to use the hose and it was too cold. I saw some you tube vids where a nice hamon was generated on a bowie using a tip down 5G bucket approach and so went that route. I felt leaving the spine unclayed was supposed to a), help minimize cracking, and , perhaps related to a, help minimize any new sori. I can see where that would give a hardened spine, but did not expect so
  2. http://www.fredhack.net/2013/02/sen-sword-making-tool.html Need to try one of these. I use a mill file in draw file motion, and by raising the angle tell myself it has a sen like action.
  3. Thanks for the feedback Jake. What would you suggest for a water into oil, 4 count? There is a link to a vid of the quench in the other thread. Seems a really fast three count. I did not notice any negative sori until post quench, but may have had some. There was a little bit of clay in the water. From what I could tell most stayed on until the oil. When removed from oil most of the clay was gone. Agree that machi is a heat sync. Almost 1/4' think there. Unlike last time I did not keep the tongs clamped on and so felt I was hot enough. I do recall feeling the tip hit the plastic wate
  4. With the fine help and advice given here it seems I am able to join the "first hamon" club. I details the hybrid water into oil quench plan in another thread in this same forum. That thread also links to some pics of the clayed blade and quench. I used steel baron 1075. Nagasa ~ 12". Clayed with rutlands furnace cement. Charcoal brick forge with shop vac. Fast 3 seconds into hot water (from tap, 2 Tb or so salt added for brine), then into used ATF until cool. Temper at 400 for 1H. Edge skates a file like glass. Overall happy as I am calling this functional and a sucess. I do see the ha
  5. Thanks for the comment, Casey. I am starting a new "my first hamon" thread to show the results. Must say, the etch did wonders, and perhaps its a bit too loud. Did not see any odd circle/dimples but there is clear mune-yaki going on. Cheers! Edit to add link to my "my first hamon' thread. Seems obligatory around here. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26120
  6. Hey all, just wanted to update. Happy to report some measure of sucess. I went ahead and did the hybrid oil into water quench. I had two blanks clayed up, but opted to do only one ( i have two clayed blanks) so as to learn from any mistake. On the upside its seems to have survived quench. Their is some form of hamon, and activity near the spine as well. I did leave the back unclayed. On the down side, I think the blade got some negative sori, and the hamon (now polished to 2k), is not real loud. It clearly dips off the blade about 1-2 inches from the machi. The blade took a bit of war
  7. Thanks Brian. My last attempt, which cracked, was as you describe so now a bit paranoid. Is there any known downside, apart from tradition, that causes you to warn against water into oil? Its hard to see color through clay, and with all the water churn so I was planning quick 3 second count in the water and then oil, perhaps a smaller container so I can pre-heat, until cool. Then into 400 oven for temper. Best regards
  8. Thanks for all the feedback. I do realize that aldo is the better steel, hence invested in some while the rest of my admiral stock languishes. I have no temp controls, other than a beginner's eye and a magnet. I will consider any sort of hamon combined with a lack of cracking a success on this round. I agree that a pure oil quench, more so in ATF, is not going to net a hamon, hence the question of interrupted water vs. the hybrid of water and then oil. Seemed the best of both worlds; hamon at speed of sound, nice and easy cool down from there with no ping of death.... Feedback see
  9. Hey all, I have two stock removal tanto blanks made from aldo 1075 that I just normalized. My last attempt, from admiral, cracked during an interrupted water quench (after the clay fell off in the forge). As I have the ability to oil quench (with ATF), I am curious as to what this community things is the best way to get a hamon while minimizing crack potential. 1. Interrupted water quench, in for 2, out 3, in for 2, etc. 2. Hybrid water/oil, in to water for 2, then into oil until cool. Knowing what I think I know, the hamon should form either way, which seems to favor hybri
  10. Good things come to those that wait. I too have my order in. Thanks for making it happen! Regards
  11. Wow. Very creative. If I understand correctly your broke off a piece of round file, mounted in a wooden jig that acted as an edge guide, and then proceeded to "draw file" in the hi. I would have thought a metal jig was needed for fear of the wooden one wearing out/getting loose and causing play that translated to a sloppy grove. That clearly was not an issue for you. Thanks for posting the info. I can see why a hi can be an expensive addition to a blade and when it comes time to polish. regards
  12. wow, a most excellent result. Very nice work. The hamon blade, and fittings are all top notch. If you don't mind me asking, what did you use for the fuller. It came out remarkable. Regards
  13. awesome pics, and a very interesting explanation. As one that is limited to a charcoal brick forge, and who has recently suffered loss of clay (and was lost due to cracks in water quench, likely due to uneven heat among other things), I am liking the pipe idea more and more. I did not realize the importance of a closed end, until now. Thanks for that info Alan. Cheers
  14. Thanks Al, seems the memory is fading and i had the temps backwards. I will check with Industrial metal supply next time I am down there. Some state in other forums that satenite is known for being brittle, and given my lack of gas forge the pipe shielding may be the way to go. Given the almost total loss of clay I just can't see not loosing at least some small bits (like ashi), even with a rougher polish and pure satenite. A thin walled pipe avoids the need to heat much mass and seems to provide best chance for preserving what may have been a complex clay design (mount fuji or flowers floatin
  15. Thanks. That would be ideal. Issue is, home depot has 1" diamter as the largest. I would need a steel/iron pipe with a 3-4 " diameter, which is massive. I have a 20" nagassa wak also ready for heat treat (its o1 tool steel, so no clay on that one), but at some point planned to move up to katana lengths (as do all aspiring knife smiths). I have no idea where I could get a 4" diameter steel pipe that was nearly 30" long, or even 14" which is ~ what i would need for the tanto. Any ideas? Sewer line perhaps? Edit to add that google is my friend. http://www.lowes.com/pd_181082-1814-SV
  16. Thanks all for the comments. I have edited my initial post to add details that I had broken the charcoal up; the pic shown is from a previous forge use during normalization. I have edited original post to show the chunk size of my fuel. Does seem larger than 1". So, seems a rougher finish is a place to start. Perhaps not adding charcoal...I believe I added < 10%, but when I first used on the short blade it was pure satenite and I had to remove after quench. IOW, not only did it stay on in the forge but through quench as well. As for satenite not being ideal, Brian, I will look into
  17. Hey all, hoping to gain some insight as to the best ways to maintain a satenite/clay coating on a longish blade during heat treat when using a brick forge with charcoal as the fuel. I used satenite and the same fuel/brick forge before on a small kiridashi and there there was no issue with clay integrity. But on current tanto WIP, which has a 12" nagasa, it seems that the friction from insertion/removal of the coals was just too much for the clay, as I lost almost 100% of it. I have limited experience with coal, and have a farrier's forge but its not big enough for this blade. I mention
  18. Pardon the dumb question, but when you say "water quench into oil", is that a form of interrupted quench? If so, what was the count/timing? I have heard folks talk of a fast 3/slow 3. Regards
  19. I would say it's an oxide layer, aka, patina. In low spots it will likely stay but will wear off with constant touching such as on a tuba. Regards PS> Edit to add, nice pattern there.
  20. For what it's worth, I have always heard that the vinegar should be warm/off boil (stinks) for best results. Compared to ferric chloride its pretty mild so you want the steel and vinegar warm for fastest reaction. Nice work getting the hamon that you have. Update if the pumice helps as I've not tried that. Regards
  21. Thanks Jake, clearly I've much to learn. I know stock removal is not traditional, but still felt more often than not the "traditional" manufacture of nihonto involved a water quench with clay insulation, and I just figured that was the line I would tow as there is no way for me to make iron sand ore, and I suck at forging thus far. No doubt being able to produce a hamon w/o any clay assist would prove additional mastery of the material. Bad news on the Admiral 1080, but thanks for confirming what others have alluded to as well. At the time I figured any 10xx was as good as another (al
  22. Thanks for the feedback. I know that some smiths keep their clay recipe as a trade secret, and asking for the "best clay" is akin to asking what oil to use on a car forum.... I have heard of a no-clay hamon but prefer to try and be traditional, hence using clay to try and a), produce a hamon, and , control its shape. I really don't think my home made mix is right. It behaves like playground sand more then pudding, if that make sense. And I am tired of trying to grind it finer. For now I will stick to satenite, but will add some ground up coal as per OP. I have admiral 1080, which
  23. Nice! I have a stock removal tanto made from 1080 that I got as far as normalization. Still waiting heat treat. While not meaning to hijack, I'm curious as to thoughts ion satenite as a yake tsuchi (clay for yake ire)? I had limited success with a small test kiri-dasi and the satenite, but received advice from a knowledgeable member on another board indicating use of satenite is a "common mistake", and that it's far better to make your own using 1/3 each of lump charcoal, bentonite clay (cat litter), and fine sand. I bought some silica sand that was very fine, but even after grinding
  24. Hey all, my name is Harry and I just joined this great forum. I too am interested in the dvd. I found the talk by Peter to be immensely enjoyable and equally informative. I missed out on geometry in school (make that successfully avoided). Now, I wish I had bitten the bullet back when they tried to force feed me knowledge. This makes me want to dust off the compass.... <Insert slow clapping .gif here> Bravo! Best regards
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