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Saul Kokkinos-Kennedy

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Saul Kokkinos-Kennedy last won the day on August 20 2015

Saul Kokkinos-Kennedy had the most liked content!

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    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, cooking, drawing, carving, jewellery, camping, hiking

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  1. Thank you Tim for all the info. I've already learnt a lot from your posts in other threads and other forums. I really appreciate you taking the time. Quite a bit to get my head around. I definitely have a much better understanding of motors now, having read your post 4 or 5 times. You make a good point about trying to source a drive locally, i've found some sites that look promising, and will make some calls on Monday. I phoned a company today, and the guy i spoke to seemed to think that i would be better off with a 2800 RPM motor as he said they are balanced more accurately than the 1400
  2. I'm in the process of building a new 2x72 grinder, and i like the idea of having a VFD instead of step pulleys. I'm currently looking at the KBAC 27D. I'm having problems working out how to get the SFM i want. I'm after about 500sfm to about 5000-7000sfm. I can get a 4 pole motor at 1400rpm or a 2 pole at 2800rpm. My thinking is that i can get the 2800rpm motor and use the 2X jumper on the KBAC to double the speed. Would that mean i could then go from 0 - 5600 rpm? Resulting in 7330 SFM with a 5" drive wheel. Does the kbac 27d go from 0 rpm to double the motor rpm? (not countin
  3. Thanks a heap Conner for all your input. Really helpful. I will definitely be drawing the temper on the eye and poll. Any idea whether i should be tempering the same as O1? or do i need to slightly adjust my temps up or down?
  4. Ok thanks Conner, I'm using a propane forge, and i think i'd have to be trying to burn steel, although the slightly higher carbon in O1 may lower the burning temperature...? i'll have to see. Sorry for all the questions, but i've just found Ketos (apparent equivalent of O1) on the steel suppliers stock list. I can get 75 X 20mm ketos for $3.50 a kg. So my questions are: Does anyone know the exact composition of Ketos? Because i have found a few different versions, some containing no vanadium or no tungsten. Would the lack of either of those two elements make any big difference in as q
  5. Ok cheers, well i think i'll get some 8660 to try out, as it sounds like a pretty good steel for axes, but i'll also get some 1050 in case i keep getting cracks (trying to get the most out of the $75 delivery charge). Conner i'm curious about what you said about ruining o1 with too much heat. I tried doing some research, but came up empty. Do you have any info regarding exact temperatures that ruin o1? as i plan on forge welding some soon. I usually forge weld my 1084 and 15n20 billets at about 1250 degrees C. Never gotten sparks at that temperature.
  6. Thanks Jerrod and Conner, not too concerned about it being slightly red hard as i'll be using a power hammer, but the possibility of cracking is a problem. I've been trying to avoid doing forge welded cutting bits, but seems it might be my best option. What do you guys think of using o1 as the cutting edge at about 58hrc? I can get 1020, 1040 or 1050 steel for the body, what do you think would work best?
  7. I've found some 8660 at 44mm round for a very reasonable price, but i'm not sure how suitable it would be for axes. My concern comes from this sentence, from Heat Treater's Guide Companion "The hardenability band is relatively wide, but the hardenability can be very high, actually approaching that of an air-hardening steel." My concern it that when working on the lips of an axe with it on a drift, you loose heat very quickly, so i'm wondering if cracking would be a problem? Any information, or experience forging this steel would be greatly appreciated. I can also get 4140 quite che
  8. Here's some damascus and a few axes i've been working on. 5 strand multi bar ready for forge welding. 3 alternating twists, a thin straight laminate, and an edge of twisted W's pattern. Here's the bar all welded up, looking forward to seeing how it turns out in a knife. small viking style carving axe in the works. Body is 1050 and edge is 1084 steel 2 hatchets with hammer polls, and the viking carving axe from the last picture. Pretty pleased with how these are coming along, as it's my first time making axes.
  9. Thanks guys! Simon, the ring was made by heating to white hot and quenching in water, which cracked the steel. The cracks were then enlarged by letting it sit in ferric chloride over night. Then cleaned out the cracks with ultra sonic cleaner and vinegar. Then heated, fluxed with borax, and brazed into the cracks with nickel brass rod.
  10. Well its been a while since i've posted anything here, so thought i'd share some of what i've been up to. These are some photos from my instagram 250mm gyuto in 1084 and 15n20. Handle is red coolabah and mallee burl with brass and g10 spacers. Close up of pattern Beginning of Japanese style hammer Carving hammer handle out of old redgum railway sleeper Finished hammer. Haven't used it enough yet to know what i think Ring out of 1084 and 1045 damascus with brass. plan to make a silver liner at some point. Bunch of knives i'm still finishing, some are d
  11. Thanks Arthur, good to hear you haven't had any problems with moisture absorption. I'll be using a 50/50 mix of sodium chloride and calcium chloride too. Yeah the stand was made with normalizing in mind. Cheers for the link, looks like a nice setup, I'll be looking at doing a low temp pot if this one works out well. Not sure that i want to try baking the salts in the kitchen oven, think i'll try doing it in the forge on the lowest heat i can. Your venting system looks good, and i would probably try to rig up something similar, but i only plan to use the pot outside.
  12. Here you can see the adjustable stand i made to hang the blades in the pot for heating, and the cover that can swivel over the pot. I will use the cover when firing it up, as the salts will absorb water while not in use, which will cause some spitting as it is heating. Here's the solenoid valve and needle vale for idling. Inside of the body. You can see the support rod at bottom of chamber. Tapered rod. The rusty piece of steel slides up and down the shaft and will be used as a form of hammer to remove the rod from the solid salt. I still need to weld a cap on the end that i
  13. Hey Arthur, yes i was mildly worried that the lid may deform due to conductive heat and the weight of the salt filled tube, so i have added a 22mm round stainless rod to the bottom that sits 5mm away from the bottom of the SS tube. Also this will be controlled by a PID and solenoid valve. Bret, yes it will definitely require my full and undivided attention while operating, I think the worst part will be filling it for the first time. Still figuring out how i will bake the salts to remove any moisture prior to putting in the SS tube. Thinking i'll do it in the forge at low heat in small bat
  14. So i decided to make a salt pot as my method of heat treating. Here's some quick info and pics. I will add to it later and update as i complete it. It's almost done, just need to line it with ceramic wool and fix on the gas equipment and electronics. Chimney is designed so that i can pre heat blades in it to remove any moister before going into the salt. Wheels are solid rubber so will not puncture and also have splash guards so they don't catch on fire. SS pot hangs from flange that sits on lid, and is located by 4 tabs. Salt tube is 316L 100mm or 4" ID and 500mm or 19.5" deep. Gas tank
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