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Kevin Klein

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Kevin Klein last won the day on April 24 2017

Kevin Klein had the most liked content!

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About Kevin Klein

  • Birthday 07/25/1990

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    http://www.kevinkleinblades.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Boston
  • Interests
    Art, Food and Mingling

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  1. UPDATE-Currently running this through my Instagram, but figured some people here may be interested as well. RAFFLE $25 Rules: Each ticket is $25, if you get 3 or more tickets they are $20 a piece. Limit of 50 total tickets To enter, send your payment through PayPal to kevinkleinblade@gmail.com Include the message May 2018 and your Instagram handle, please follow up with a DM. Numbers get assigned in the order I recieve payments. Raffle runs through May 15th when I'll pick a winner using an online random number generator. Shipping included within CONUS. Blade: 8.75" edge length, 13.75" OAL. Rosewood handle, silver spacer, silver pin. Sheath: cow hide body, ostrich leg inlay, shark skin back. Good luck!
  2. UPDATE-Currently running this through my Instagram, but figured some people here may be interested as well. RAFFLE $25 Rules: Each ticket is $25, if you get 3 or more tickets they are $20 a piece. Limit of 50 total tickets To enter, send your payment through PayPal (friends and family only) to kevinkleinblade@gmail.com Include the message May 2018 and your Instagram handle, please follow up with a DM.  Numbers get assigned in the order I recieve payments. Raffle runs through May 15th when I'll pick a winner using an online random number generator. Shipping included within CONUS. Blade: 8.75" edge length, 13.75" OAL. Rosewood handle, silver spacer, silver pin.  Sheath: cow hide body, ostrich leg inlay, shark skin back. Good luck! PS, If your number is not picked, your payment will be applied to a future purchase. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
  3. Thank you Kevin :-) More variations will be made.
  4. Thank you Chris and Garry. The slim look is one I'm quite fond of as well :-)
  5. For the desk top warrior ;-) Very thin 4" blade with an overall length of 8.75" Damascus, mokume, ebony, and silver. I will make a simple, but elegant leather cover before sending it out the door. High resolution images, so you can click, then zoom in to get a better look at the damascus and mokume. Price is $850.00 Let me know if you have any questions :-)
  6. The sale for this project wound up falling through. This piece is STILL AVAILABLE.
  7. Really great project, I love the profile of the guard and the fluting of the handle in-particular. Its the tight curves that get me :-)
  8. I have yet to use fine silver, I have been using sterling. Silver hot shorts, meaning if you work it hot, it can crack rather easily. I am not sure whether or not fine and sterling acts differently in this realm, but I have not had cracking problems silver wise. It may be how your working. After bonding the material I reduce my billet by at least 50% working hot at a dull red, stopping before I lose color. Broad blows, no peening. After that I work cold, annealing as needed. You can peen at this point, and you should strike with force otherwise you simply harden the surface layers and can cause de-lamination. Have you ever been on the Following the Iron Brush Forum? If not, you should check it out. There is a lot of very helpful information on mokume from individuals much more versed on the subject then myself :-)
  9. Thank you Joshua :-) The mokume I made for this piece was done in an electric kiln. 1/2" torque plate and 3/4" bolts. Everything was sealed tight in a stainless jacket which was also filled with fish tank charcoal. You pick the temp based off of what metals touch. "Mokume Gane - A Comprehensive Study" by Steve Midgett has all this information and then some. If you are into mokume, and can swing the cost of the book, I highly recommend it. I borrowed a copy from the library. I'm afraid I do not have enough photos of the process to make a proper WIP. At this point I've make mokume once in a kiln, and once in a temperature controlled forge. I'm still working through issues myself. My main insight is work cleanly, tightly, and follow directions from individuals who have done it a multitude of times with different techniques and materials :-) For my next go, I will make sure to take photos
  10. The final step in patterning the steel
  11. Hi Salem, Wes, and Austin! The steel is san mai. No laddering, no edge bar, all forging :-) The steel flanking the core is full of tight layers forged down and combined with 15n20 of roughly the same thickness as my combined layers. I wanted to make really bight steel. The waves are pretty simple. Weld up your san mai, then crush it!!! I think I crushed about eight or ten times. That is how I was able to make the pattern wave in and out of the core :-) Its a technique I am just starting to explore and it seems like there is a lot of room to play. :-) Thank you for taking note of the bolster Salem :-) That is a style I will definitely continue to push. I like the look and I like that it forces me to pay closer attention to what is in front of me.
  12. Hi Peter, somehow I missed your response to MLenaghan, sorry about that. I didn't realize Titebond made a hide glue. I was speaking on Titebond Original, II, and III. That II and III will rust steel because of acidity, and that Original will not.
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