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Tyler B

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About Tyler B

  • Birthday 11/05/1987

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    http://www.facebook.com/borrorarmory

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Hampshire
  • Interests
    Forging, cutting, welding, sanding, and pretty much anything Steel. Photography and History as well.

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  1. This is good information, and this blade will also be the first time I use round sholders. I have a masons chisel I plan on modifying to help impress the blade side of the guard so the shoulders fit nicely. This guard will be curved. So when I heat treat, I should not heat the tang/blade junction above critical?
  2. Thank you Alan and AJ . So it's driven oncold? Hope that won't crack anything. A few hundred degrees shouldn't hurt though I'm assuming, then when it's seated at the shoulders maybe a water plunge? The guard will be mild steel and the tang/blade already heat treated and it may help contract the guard slot more? Thank you all for the replies! I will try these ideas on my next sword build coming up very soon. It will be a talhoffer inspired sword, my biggest one to date. I just bought a 3 burner forge So now I can finally heat treat one! Now i just got to find a supplier of 5160 stock th
  3. Hello all, There is a question that has been nagging me for some time now. I have made a few European swords over the last few years, and I usually attach the cross guard with a small TIG bead on the underside, that is then covered by the wood scales/grip. obviously this is not historical. and not the best way to do it i know. some other ways i have found by researching this online say to slide the guard onto tang hot with the slot in the guard slightly undersized. This allows the slot to expand and fit; then cool and contract. OK, this sounds good but wont the heat seep into the h
  4. Thanks, I was a really fun project. The next one will be smaller and I should be able to start it this weekend.
  5. It is finally finished, I think it came out pretty nice. Wood is Laurel with some copper. I have certainly caught the pattern welding bug! I'll get a press someday and make some larger blades but this felt like the size limit for hand forging for me. So much drawing out that you wouldn't have to do with a monosteel blade. Blade is 12" long, 1/4" thick. Thank you all for the advice and encouragement, This was one hell of a learning process !
  6. So today was very successful! All 3 bars welded up solid, and i got the blade forged. Right now it's 1"wide at the base tapering up to 1 3/16" at the break. 12"long And 1/4"thick all along the spine and about 3/16"along the edge. It's so cool how you can see the patterns in the forge scale as you pull it from the fire. Tomorrow I'll forge it nice and even with a light hammer then grind. I plan on forging a mild steel tang and welding it to the 2 " nub of a tang that I drew from the billet. I know the handles are long on these blades , so I'll make it longer than necessary at first, I ca
  7. Thanks Alan, tomorrow I'll spark it and see. Shear or wrought would they both make a good small seax Spine? It sure has a wood grain pattern either way
  8. Thank you all for the replies and help. Ill get it cleaned off and drawn out. I'll have some pattern welded leftovers from my seax build and I'll add some of the wrought in it. What is shear steel? Is it just another name for cast iron? Too much carbon?
  9. Yesterday and today I finished drawing the 3 billets out, and got the two 9 layer ones twisted, squared and ground. I learned the hard way not to over twist as I sheared 2 inches of the end of one of em. So here is where it stands now, 10 inches long and 3/8 thick, and 1 1/4 wide. I left the center bar a little long so I can weld on a handle. Tomorrow I weld it up in the coal forge and see what happens! I did a test etch on the edge bar and one twist bar just for fun, ill re clean the surfaces before stacking and welding.
  10. The sparks would be similar to mild steel right?
  11. Hello all, I was looking through some metal I have stockpiled over the years and came access this peice. The man who gave it to me called it wrought, and said it was an old "rock nail". I ground an inch of it with a angle grinder and etched it in Ferric chloride diluted 1 to 4 in distilled water for a few minutes. It looks almost fiberous and grainy like wood. Here are some pics, I hope it's legit so I can use it in some blade spines. What do u all think?
  12. Newest drawing. Still researching blade profiles online. I will have all of next week to finish it up. Best way to spend a week off ever!
  13. Progress so far. One 9 layer squared bar, another of the same but not fully drawn out yet, and a 72 layer bar also not fully drawn out yet. Lots of hammering! By my calculations the final blade will be around 12" long. Shorter than originally planned. O well. The 72 layer was my first try at folding the billet instead of cutting and stacking. It went perfectly smooth as far as I can tell at this point. Next week I'll twist two of the bars and prep them for welding and get the 72 layer bar to shape. I can't wait to see how this turns out!
  14. Well today was successful. All 3 billets were welded well and I even got one of them drawn out to 21 inches long by 7/16 thick. Longer than I thought! Later this week I will get one other billet drawn out as well then twist them both. The last billet I'll fold a few times then draw it out as well. Now i am trying to finalize the final profile shape. I've spent some time on this forum and Google looking at lots of seaxes, there are so many varieties. A couple of WIP pics of the days work. Just myself and two strikers, I envy the power hammers some if you have!
  15. Thank you GEzell, that is solid advice. I'll grind the twisted bars down before welding the final billet, suppose I'll do that with the random pattern edge as well. And ill probably just twist them at the original 9 layers they are. I just made the stacks this morning, and like a true WIP I'll post as I go. The welding and drawing is tomorrow!
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