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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.

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  1. I also use one of those big 16' rasps, they are monsters in wood work. I have two of them and have designated one for hot rasping and the other for heavy wood removal. I had believed those big rasps were some part of the farriers trade because of how similar the teeth are to a farriers rasp. Those are easily a mate to a draw knife.
  2. I've recently been told to look into a hydraulic press when it comes to shop space. Advantages, no foundation, portable, lots of power. I've never used one before, but for smaller shops and hobbyist like me, its a better option. Cost, they are much cheaper than hammers. Not having to do any additional construction to your work space is a plus too. When it comes to power hammers, I think the stroke capacities are just as important as how fast it hits. I've used a shop built tire hammer which is fast! Can draw out materiel very well at 50lbs, but it's stroke capacity is so littl
  3. It must be tin then, because the sheets have none of the crystal pattern on them. Just bright and white-ish where I tried to remove some of the plating. I've resolved to just keep that steel on the side I have enough from the haul to make a lot of stuff. Of the other thinner sheets I have, I cleaned off some of the rust to them, and noticed that they are blued. I don't think they are heat tinted as a wire wheel will not strip it off. I had to use a little bit of sanding to strip a section of that. I've thrown automotive springs in the fire before which may be chemical blued, howe
  4. Yes that is the best option that I have to get use out of what I got. For right now, I'm kicking the sheets to the side to clean up and get the heavier gauge stuff ready for plasma cutting. I have never stripped coating off of any pieces before. Other than looking for black metal to reveal itself, any other things to watch out for to know the coating is totally removed?
  5. I've had this question for a while. Is an induction forge the future of the craft. Is it more economical, safer, etc. I think this video is well done in explaining a lot of these things that I've had questions about. Maybe this can answer some questions out there for others as well.
  6. Jewellery saw. nothing better that I know of to make those jump rings have nice clean butted ends. I normally make a coil, then saw each ring from the coil with a saw rather than clip it. This way there less of a bur.
  7. My little metal working hobby has been pretty much dead since the world went bonkers and those of us who could continue to work did. Then found themselves overworking. As somethings have slowly been coming back to normal, I made plans to make up new sets of tong held tooling. I went to the local guy that I usually get my steel from and there was a pile of sheet metal on the floor that he offered to me. As a decorative flower maker I saw a pile of rusty sheet metal as worth it. I got home and sorted out the sheets, all things painted - tossed to the side as not usab
  8. that bug is a *&^%, western pa is being stripped of ash due to that bug. There seems to be very little that can keep those bugs in check other than a seasonal pesticide. Ash is on the way of the chestnut that was once everywhere around this area from what the old timers said.
  9. Look at the end grain, and do a search on the good old inter-web. Best to identify by the end grains of the wood. If it is Teak, it's a major score. Teak is very water resistance, carves wonderfully, however I think it's dust is a little more of an irritant than others. Not a huge health risk, but for some reason teak sticks out in my mind as being a little more potent than the other exotic woods.
  10. Vintage anvils are being found in various conditions, and those that have been doing this for a while take them as they can get them. I've seen guys with very dinged up edge chipped to almost dead soft anvils still making stuff. A vintage anvil even in that condition will probably be your first and last anvil you will ever need. Even if you lost the entire foot of that anvil, you could still mount it in a stump and use it for a few more generations. excellent find.
  11. I would suggest as it has also been pointed out to me, to try and make your steel bit the same length and profile of the cheeks of your axe body. That little void behind the bit is a tough spot. Your first weld can be a tap to get that bit to seat it, then work the cheeks. However it's really easy to break that weld working that way. Having a little axe with a poll is nice, but for a user axe, not really necessary. The profile of the blade is what determines a good usable axe vs one that turns out as a wall hanger. The pole is debatable for what reason its there for. Its most
  12. My anvil developed a 'patina' on its working face, and I look at it with an extreme cringe. I sigh knowing that one day things will straighten out and I can get back to working with it regularly again. Every spring I tend to go over all my tooling, the hammers get a little soak if their heads are loose. A touch up with a scotch bright pad. Check for cracks in anything that I welded together. Regrind or reforge struck ends, dress worked ends of tools. I may not be at my anvil as much as I would like, but during these times where I can't set up shop, I look to improve or keep up what I got.
  13. That first one certainly looks like an "old Hickory" knife - which those old knives are everywhere and were once made in good old Titusville pa. Still some of the best kitchen knives you can get your hands on. I could be mistaken there are some features that they have that set them apart. They are relatively soft, which most of them I have or seen are worn down quite a good bit, but they do take a nice edge. Normally stamped, and have a set of depressions along the spine of the knife. The handle fits their design.
  14. I have a few under my belt, they usually take a turn for the worse and wind up in a scrap pile until I just glue them (mig) together at some point in an attempt to make somthing of them. I have 2 that I consider successful wrap welded axes, and 1 that is more for show than an actual tool. However all three of them mis the mark for what I would consider a useable tool. Pipe tomahawks on the other hand, I got about 5 of those sitting around. I use a different process than the traditional wrap for those.
  15. I like it! As I've been gearing up for my own axe attempts, I've read more and more about ditch the 4lb feller, and make a 2-1/2lb boys axe. Seems that you've also hit all the right criteria for a good working tool too.
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