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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.

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  1. Just knock the hard corners off the face of the hammer and the edge. If you have some modeling clay or any clay like material, you can test out your hammer face on it. You just don't want the face of the hammer leaving heavy ridges in what your striking which becomes a pain to grind out. I have several hammers with various extremes of crowning. Never doubt a little hammer, I use one of that size for small scroll work as its a little tougher for me to control a lager hammer.
  2. That is a really nice compact idea for a forge, and probably an overall good size! Hot spots, I think with your design of having that burner come in from the side, you will not notice it. I look for a hot spot at times, but I'm not as much a knife maker. I'm usually looking to make a swirly thing and sometimes everything hot is problematic. I would add to John N's suggestion of 20 bucks for a CO alarm, and say if you can get one with a digital read out even better. Typical CO alarms go off around 30ppm, but the digital ones can give you a read out of lower levels. Rea
  3. Congratulations on the anvil! I've been very curious about those amazon anvils since I seen some reviews on them. Beware of the 3lb hammer, that weight is a little heavy for most who start out. See if you can find a hammer that is 2-2 1/2lbs. The HF stores carry them if one is around you, if not, ball pen hammers come in a verity of weights and are not hard to find. Make sure the grip is comfortable for you, over gripping causes some pain. As for a vise, get 2, get a big vise (a leg vise if you can or plan for it down the road) and one of those little vises that c
  4. As a big fan of two handed swords, I give you a big thumbs on keeping that blade geometry original. I am not a fan of diamond cross sections in these later swords because they are made to favor a cut. Most of the originals I tracked down did not have that diamond cross section. Having fullers that are partial make a lot of advantages to how a blade acts. Mostly it's to reduce weight but also to redistribute mass. I would die to see someone make a clam shell style guard.
  5. I agree that to cut those channels for the inlay wire that it seems really unlikely to use a multi faced tool, I was spit balling a random idea. You'd have to look over the archeological records to see what kind of tools were present at the time of the work to even see if something like that was plausible. Those channels are probably plunge cut, basically punched directly in rather than shaved like a modern engraving process. How fine they are done is really impressive, however a really fine wire does not need a great deal of depth to achieve a good lock. Don't think I could com
  6. Dividers are amazing tools for layout. At least that's how I would approach it, set my divider and score a line, flip and continue. In fact scoring a line before cutting the channel can give your graver a path to start on. At least when I've done it in the past. I'm no expert on inlay but I like to cut a line here and there. I read a book on Celtic knot work which highlighted the same idea, many many lines evenly spaced and so fine it's hard to imagine. The book referred that the Knot work was made simply by dividing with a compass over and over again. I have thi
  7. In keeping the scale on, you can paint a resist on the forge scale. Anything based with lacquer, clear nail polish etc. may not leave the finish your looking for matte clear rust-o-ilium paint may work. Sharpy marker works to a point. I've not tried it, but just simple wax may also work, and might be the best way to go if you can test it out. In this way, even if you wipe on the acid, it will not get to the rough texture of the scale. There is a number of different acids you can use, the ferric chloride is a general what works best. I've used muriatic acid with not st
  8. I fell into the trap of using that stuff myself, although not to that extent. I've used it more for quick patches, and it never seems to hold up after a few goes with the forge running. It might even turn into a black glassy like goo. I'm looking at the floor of your forge and thinking, you might run into a mess there. Every hard fire brick I've used ended up cracked, crumbled, and glassy. Doesn't look like your case there. If you have enough castable, what I've done was take out the hard brick floor, and just put in the wool and refractory. Then I cast a slim "soap dish" like rem
  9. I know the logical thing is to just move the car or find another place for the car. I'm unfortunately a little hemmed in and running out of space. Got plenty of property to build something, but with this years house repairs it's out of my budget to do. As I've been waiting on replies, I've been looking for info. And so far, I've gathered that the welding blankets made of fiberglass is probably not what I'm looking for. There's a range of materials out there and I've got to look into them a little more. I have a lot of "blasting mat" on hand (a heavy yellow tarp used
  10. The idea, yeah use it to your liking. All I would ask is to make yours unique in your own way. I try to do that as much as I can in the finished look although the process used is pretty much the same anyone would use. Originally, my thought was to make the flower from one piece fanning out the peddle, dawning down the stock for the stem and stamen, folding it and weld the stem. A little too much work, but I still think I'll try it one day.
  11. I normally do my metal working in my 2 car garage, been doing in that way for years. Not at all the safest set up I could do, but it is the best I've got until I can make some kind of outbuilding. Since my metal work slowed down, I've done some simple improvements to make that space a little better. I usually work out of one side of the garage, my trouble is I'm sharing my smithing space with a car that moves only once every 6 to12 months. Other than that, my garage fills up with debris - old dry leaves dirt etc. To prevent any accidental sparks (from welding grinding or even fly
  12. I like to do flowers - This is a small batch of 2 piece lilies. 2 pieces as the stems are sheet metal and the stems another. Never had a finished picture of this rose, this was after the rose cooled from shaping it up.
  13. We always like to jump right into the fun stuff but sometimes may be a little relaxed on the safety side. A good practice at any shop is to put your safety gear right on the tool so that you have to pick it up before you work with it. A physical reminder to put on the safety glasses. Or to set yourself a rule that when working put on the ppe and don't take it off until the job is done. Thats a little more ticky because we may not think to need it for a few hobby hours. I find it normal as I have to have all the ear and eye protection on for my normal shift work.
  14. And don't forge about investing in safety gear, that's the most important thing. You decide to do a lot of grinding get a respirator and understand how to use it. propane forges should come with a CO alarm, and don't forget about your ears! We all kind of take the ringing steel and think it won't do anything to us but over time it will. You will find depending on what work you do, that you will not need the biggest tools. However, when you look to upgrade, Get the best quality you can budget. HF I really try not to buy form them anymore, but sometimes I get snagged and regret it l
  15. Being that your still starting out, I would put good files as #1. Or at least better files. the HF ones I've past up as they were visually cracked. If you decided to work small and built up, better files can be just as good as a decent belt sander. The difference is time put into the work. A strong #2 is tongs. If you can't hold the work you can't hit the work. Look over at the tools and making board on the forum there's a batch of guides on different ways to make tongs. I've read through them, it's explained well and I have use a few of the methods in there at different times
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