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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.

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  1. Lol, yes, I agree that it does look pretty darn nice and so far just about everyone is liking the test piece I've seen showing. What I noticed about it a few days ago, while it was sitting on a desk, in lower light, it does have a little of that shimmery quality that catches the eye. If I go and get a totally clear Epoxy it will probably be even better. I also noticed that after a few days, that epoxy must have totally cured, because the plastic feel to them has now changed to a very solid and smooth feel. However there adhesion is still the same. If I get my finger nail on one, I can just pluck one right off if I'm determined to do so. In which case, that may just have to be a part of using this method. From what it looks like so far, the epoxy does not hurt the oxidation underneath it so if someone like me goes over and starts to pick at it, might as well pick them all off. Part of this idea is to be a little bit innovate and try to make something I have not seen before. That's why in the future, I still may try and do a few of the other things discussed in the thread. It is going to take me some time to get a flower together due to my work scheduled, but I'm still shooting to get my home forge running in Feb.
  2. There is a lot of trial and error in building your own forge. Wayne has a very nice and easily explained section on his page about building a gas forge. For a lot of info on the subject you can also use Ron Riel's page to help too. https://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml There is a lot of information in that page and a lot of notes about how to adjust a burner for the forge. If you go the route of building a gas forge, I would say to maybe shoot for the goal of getting a forge that can get up to a nice forging temp first, (a bright orange maybe to the low yellow range) If you can get a forge to do that successfully, then maybe plan for a second forge to dedicate to welding. And you do not need a huge forge. I've been able to see a clam shell like forge like the one Wayne has planned out on his page, and something like that really can work some big stuff. You can not really skimp on the materials to build one, and finding the stuff at a local hardware store probably is not going to happen. Glass blower and pottery suppliers may have some of the materials on hand, other than that, online is where you will have to go.
  3. No - no kiln or HT oven, I do know a potter or two I'll have to send them a line and see what they think as well. Maybe if I made one out of copper or bronze that could work a little better? I did make a little $$$ on my recent sells and have always wanted to make a bronze rose, and copper is always nice. I seem to have a lot of ideas to test out, I got some scrap copper around, bronze I have very little. Making a Silver flower that would be a little over the top but have a real Wow factor. So far, I've got a reject flower I made about 4 years ago that is serving as my test piece, it currently has epoxy on it. I think, my first trials will be to try and dob a little hard silver solder on steel, and then try copper. Just to see if it can bead up like I think. It's not clean, and a little too "dewy." Served the idea well, I do kind of like the effect, just not as durable as I would hope to make.
  4. There is another process done in filigree work where beads of molten metal are rolled onto a surface and soldered on. But that's usually for gold and silver work. I think that might work similarly to how I tried to drip solder on before. Wonder if there are some options there.
  5. Now that's a very interesting idea! If I torch them on, being this is going to be sheet steel, the smallest torch tip would be more than enough to get a little spot hot enough. Brazing rod, yes, I like that, but what I would like more is possibly hard silver solder. It does not take a color when heat tinting and would remain bright. Also hard solder may not accidentally flow at the usual heat tinting temps. But that is also the hang up with using solder or brazing rod, get a section too hot that you don't want and accidentally cause one of the beads to flow into the other. Something worth looking into. I also thought about enamel, seen it done once before on steel. But that was for something entirely coated with enamel. I will look into that more.
  6. For an introduction to welding, I took a class with a master jeweler. I saw some really interesting stuff. Most of which was done by torch welding. Which as he broke down torch welding, translates to TIG very well. You can successfully bond a lot of materials together with torch welding, its just not really done because TIG has so much more control. From that class I took that if I can't get two different metals to stick together, braze it. Wanna stick stainless together, braze it, cast iron braze it. Since then I've been trying to get the time to take an actual welding certified class just for a back up in case my job goes poof. Making good weld splatter I could be on the right path, although in looking for some contrasting elements in the artwork, it may not pull off the effect as well as clear epoxy. I had a few people within the day take a look at the test piece I made with the epoxy and they overall liked the effect aside from it being a little more fragile than I would like. Their opinion was it was stuck well enough. I'm probably going to test out both and see which of the two processes I like more. If I can heat tint one of the flowers to my liking and then add the weld splatter to highlight some kind of contrast that may be it. Although my blacksmith mentor said he never wanted to see my weld spatter again. I rolled around with the epoxy idea today too, thinking about all the innovative things people are making with it lately, normally in wood work. I pondered for a while if I could crush glass or crystal to suspend in the epoxy mix to make it look like snow or just make it more prism like . . . . . . . . . It's just ideas until this week when I can try some things out. For glass I have an idea, but from my understanding, its really not going to work due to rates of expansion and contraction. Glitter, you can all say it, I heard it like three times today when showing the little test piece off . . . Just seems to Tacky of an idea though. Now metal flake maybe, but that's just another form of glitter.
  7. Hmm, Never thought about just welding them on. When it comes to something easy, I usually take the rocky unpaved road. Using weld splatter, I thought about that one point in time, but forgot about that until you mentioned welding. I'll have to try a test run of it too. Seems easy enough. I did a small test with epoxy from this last post, and although it did make droplets, they did not stick quite like I would like. It takes effort, but you can pick them off just by hand. I have a few other tests to throw at it first, one would be to heat the metal before applying to help open the pours on the steel a bit, see if that helps. Another little test sheet I have was to totally coat the steel with epoxy, lightly sand it, apply droplets afterward. I still don't exactly like the idea of making art work with glue but it does have a potential. It could make a very nice contrast to have a matte steel finish with very bight 'water like' drops. As for glass, I understand that is something physically impossible the more I researched. Previously, I've tried to drip solder on the peddles, but that really doesn't work. It either flows when it's hot enough to stick, or makes a nice slash and doesn't stick at all. Copper sweating, does not make the look I'm going for but does make for some interesting stuff. I haven't attempted to braze a little touch of bronze but I suspect that it may work the same as the solder. If I was a real nut, I could raise little dimples on the underside of the sheet, but I'll try welding before I do that.
  8. This is pretty far from a knife making question, but I'm pondering an idea that I'm not sure will work the way I want it to. I recently sold off an art projects which frees me up to make another little item in about late February. I've had the idea for a while to incorporate dew droplets on my steel flowers, and I have an idea of how to do, but I'm not sure which would yield a permanent lasting bond to the metal. So I'm looking for guidance over what material might work best. The first one that comes to mind is to use a clear resin epoxy. Which may may work just fine, although in my mind may look a bit 'plastic' The second idea, which I don't know will work, would be if I could drip beads of molten glass on the surfaces. I like that idea but I have no idea if the glass will make a lasting bond to the surface. I would just want to make sure that in making some form of this that when someone wants to look or handle the piece, they can't just pick one of the beads off. I've seen steel enameled before, but not partially. Any ideas that I can throw into the mix?
  9. I'm doing some reading of older stuff today and fell into this post. The conversation is brought up a lot at my local forge among the older smiths that started out long before the show. The negative effect it has, tooling. Price's are going up as there is a demand for it right now. In the future I fear that the scrap yards will become flooded with good quality antique anvils as people move around (or hobby jump) and just can't unload or sell them. The positive effect I think is what's happening with the younger people who are experiencing what's left of this art. Never before have more people wanted to learn how to manipulate metal, which might spark a passion to get involved with a trade like fab&welding. Not only that, but there is a growing sense of the hand made product being appreciated as much or even sometimes more than a mass produced item. I know of a growing number of people, who have dedicated their professional life to being a professional blacksmith. All those people seem to be about 10 years younger than me, but seem to be coming out of a grad program (or art school) with the intent to be in industrial arts. The tv show, I've totally lost interest in it. I might enjoy it more if there was more mention of technique, or something more about the process. Last several shows I watched were more like high light a fireball during a quench, and what it can cut thought. The process of making is what's exciting to me.
  10. looks really good, fold went really well. That is going to be a nice little axe.
  11. Just let her know having this machine cuts down on forge time and increases time to spend with her to do other stuff.
  12. Pay particular attention to steps 26 and 27 in Gerald's guide. That's where I seem to be falling apart on my latest attempts. I'm in the same boat with that. To make a wall hanger is nice. My goal with the wrapped axes I've tried was always to make something use able. The ones that I have together are just the wrong shape to accomplish anything. It does sort of stink that I've been trying to wrap one every forge chance I get. Then I watched a friend of mine make a nice hatchet from a brick hammer in about the same amount of time for me to mess up one wrapped axe.
  13. This is a sad part for all hobby blacksmiths. If your work area is connected to the house in any way, expect your insurance to down right tell you they cannot insure you. This is one of those areas of extreme trouble. I know for myself, and for what I do, working out of my garage even as limited as I do. If my homeowners insurance knew what I was doing, they would cancel the policy on the spot. If you mention anything concerning "fire" and "home" expect them to go nearly nuts or raise your rate. last year I thought about putting in a wood stove in my basement where my wood shop is, decided to burn all my hardwoods and help heat the house. Yeah, insurance company said OK, but your new rate is going to be $$$$$ a month. I'm very much wanting to get my metal work, out of my home. Unfortunately, it's coming down to buying or renting a commercial building, or building a large workshop elsewhere on my lawn. Neither of which are affordable options right now especially when I'm not making anything from it. Add that word "Insurance" then I just get depressed.
  14. My first thoughts would be, unless you are expecting to set up and take down, make those anvil bases solid. Bury them in the ground. There is nothing more annoying to me while working if the anvil or the base itself is moving or not solid. Any time the anvil moves when struck, that's almost like potential energy lost. I'm a fan of the 4x4 bundle rather than just a stump. If it's going to be outside, then treated lumber would be best. If those ideas don't sound too good and the owner wants to keep the stumps, then your best bet is to try and seal the bottoms of them. Paint - cheap easy I'm sure someone is going to say Linseed oil the bottom of them and the top of them. Basically where water lays is where rot will occur first. Get a good quality primer to seal seal the wood as well as possible, then an exterior paint. The stump outside will not last forever.
  15. I'll try to keep that in mind when I get back to this. My first thought is to try and just drift out the eye a pinch, and also to work around the drift gently to see if that corner will work out. I rushed this one a bit, but I am over all surprised at how fast you can get these these together. If I could just get them together successfully during one forging secession and not make the same mistakes.
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