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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.
  1. Daniel W

    Psssst Newbie, wanna build a propane forge?

    Thanks Vern, when I started the forge build I used materials that were available at the time so that I could get to work. I did want to show that it is possible to put together a forge with those materials - but ultimately, it will not work as well as the tested materials. Now that I've reached out and made some networking connections - I now have access to the better materials so when I need to reline the forge I expect it to preform better. Something else I want to stress to new comers too . . . You don't need a very big forge. At first I though my forge would be too small, but turns out at times it's really too big! I'm doing much more decorative and architectural things, and the propane forge is never just the right size for me. But If I were working flat stock knives, I'd be able to work 20 of them at a time. For people wanting to build a forge just for knife work, you can get away with making a really nice tight compact design that will not kill your budget when your going after materials. The right materials.
  2. Daniel W

    Post vice restoration

    Traditional looking or not, if she works is what matters most. I'm not 100% sure, but I think you may want to put a 90 degree bend at the top of your spring where is meets the bracket so that it hooks it . . . For some reason I'm can't really recall, but I remember doing that because of . . . . . . . can't remember if its just there to keep the spring from falling out of it or if it was something else important. Regardless, you got a 100 year old tool back to doing its job! That vise so hated it's rusty retirement benefits anyway!
  3. Daniel W

    Shop Safety Tip Cut Off Wheels

    My current employment has gotten me to rethink most of my safety precautions. Normally when I now cut with cut off disks, I use safety glasses, full face shield (if it's a lot of cutting dust mask as this crap is not the greatest thing to breath) heavy leather gloves, and an apron. About 2 years back I would just put on glasses and think nothing of it. It's also good to note. There's no need to ever push these disks into their cut. The weight of the tool is more than enough let the tool do the cutting don't attack it like a bear! Things like this are why I was pleased to get my portable band saw table up and running. I now avoid my cut off wheels and favor the band saw on softened steels. I'd rather buy a million blades than lose an eye.
  4. Daniel W

    first burner build

    It's been a little over a year since the first firing of my little forge. There's some things I've upgraded - and some things I just learned through trial and error. The first configuration of this burner was based on Ron Reils ez burner. The way I did all the plumbing, was terribly restrictive for air flow. After I noticed the forge was taking quite a while to heat up I pulled the burner and rebuilt it in a much simpler way. If you have a welder, you can slap this together in just a few minutes with very little parts. No choke plate required, just the delivery system suspended above the reducer. I no longer see any need for a choke plate system. By pushing the delivery system further into the reducer you can choke off the flame nearly as much as you need. This was still producing a good forge-able heat but took a while to get hot. A friend of mine came by and took a look at my set up, and he suggested a 'T' burner. This is what's currently running on my forge since October and the forge now gets hotter much faster than before. But why is the 'T' burner working so much different? I believe it is because with a single 1 1/4 reducer - your only pulling air from one source, directly behind the reducer. With a 'T' burner, your doubling the draw. If there is anything I've found about building a burner, it's better to over build it to draw air, as you can always find some way to choke it back. Depending on the depth of your delivery system into the reducer, or just adding a choke plate if you feel the need. There are a few things I could do to this burner to make it draw more air, but currently I don't think it's needed. The building of a 'T' burner also needs very little tools. With a drill - and a drill and tap set you can throw one together in a few hours. Something Important about gas plumbing as well for anyone who reads through this with their own plans. Always make your plumbing from the tank remain the same Internal Diameter or smaller. (example) Avoid building from 1/4 to 1/2 to 1/4. At the 1/2 junction, you cam make a gas pocket that builds pressure in the system. This is just one of those extra precautions that may be unlikely to cause a failure, but is known to. These are hard fire bricks, I currently use them as doors to block off the forge openings when I need to. I once had half of one on the forge floor. In my opinion there is no place for these in your forge period. After several firings, they fall apart as they are not meant for the extreme heat of the forge. They rob you of heat, hard fire brick basically absorb and store it, A lot of it! Getting one hot will take you an hour, and it will stay hot for 4-5 hours after. Once I removed the hard brick from my floor - the forge went from getting to workable temp in 45 to 15 minutes. Unless you are planning to run a production forge for 20 + hours there is very little reason to consider using them in my opinion. Not to mention the rate at which you may need to replace them. I have found a local refractory dealer in my area that can supply the more appropriate materials to upgrade this forge again. I'll be changing out the hard fire brick doors for soft brick in the future. Also putting on some IR reflective paint to increase efficiency. This forge was made to just get me started - and I should mention do not rethink the idea of what materials to use or substitute them. Read a guide, stick with it. Budget for the materials needed (they do get pricey) but don't short cut it. Short cutting on the right stuff is going to cost you more in the long run. This forge cost me so much frustration at the start of it as I thought I had a method that would work because I didn't have the right tools at the time or I was just thick headed. Something in me just told me I must needed to learn the hard and costly way. My little forge does not reach welding temp - but for me and what I do it doesn't need to. Although the higher you can get the heat - the more efficient you forge. At 5 PSI I'm reaching a good orange heat in about 15 minuets but I feel the need to get that time down to 5. Increasing PSI can get this to heat faster, but I'm not gaining any heat. Once I replace the hard brick and get some IR reflective, I'm hoping to get into the higher orange heats.
  5. Daniel W

    Psssst Newbie, wanna build a propane forge?

    I kinda wish this list was pinned up and available when I was doing all my forge building experiments. I must have searched through the forums for quite a while looking for old posts that I remembered with good info on the subject. I do feel like I should now add a little to the link that I started as some things have changed to my "First burner build" that has resulted in a easier burner to put together. I also have not yet put any IR reflective coating on my forge walls, and I do want to get to that.
  6. OK, that's relatively about the space of my garage. I do have a much higher peak to my roof than you do. It's about 12 feet. My rafters are at 8 feet and its all open. From what I found out after asking a bunch of questions with a maintenance worker I work with who has experience with all things, the gas is lighter than air and rises. Therefore, it's collecting above you like a little cloud that continues to grow down into your working area. So you have to in some way push or draw that air out if you don't have something like Alan said set up. The CO2 should, naturally flow out of the shop if you have a hole in your roof. If you don't like mine, then you have to push that air out. I use a small shop fan pointed up in my rafters to push the air around where as it builds, it begins to flow out of my open door, window, and mainly garage door. During the winter, I had my garage door opened about half way, and because my opening was at 8 feet, I believe the gas was pushed out enough that the levels were safe enough to work. My detector did not go off all winter while I worked this way. In my mind's eye, as I think about building an actual forge space, I see a building with an off set roof like the old factories that would be totally vented allowing all the gases and hot air to rise naturally leaving the structure. The best thing to think of is if in doubt ventilate, you can't play with CO2, it can knock you down too quick.
  7. I had this same concern when I was getting ready in the winter months too. A few questions would be, what space are you looking to work in? How tall is the structure as this is where the gases will pile up. CO2 detector is wroth putting up regardless. Although I suggest above head height. If you put your alarm at head high, then you've already got your head in the toxic area. The alarm will go off at unsafe levels of gas, but you may want to mount it at about 7feet if you can. That way there is about another foot of space between you and and gases when the alarms goes off. You're just minimizing your exposure. Try not to mount the detector right above the forge as it will go off. Most of the detectors I looked at had directions of keep the detector way from the heat source, but you do what it in your general work area. poking a hole in the roof is the best idea to get the build up out. Although I found that while working during the winter with my 7 foot garage door half way open, and a fan pointing up in the rafters pushing the gas out, everything seemed to be fine. As long as you have some way of pushing or pulling the building gas out above your head height. However, this is not a long term solution for working as safe as possible. Alan's probably got the best idea.
  8. Daniel W

    How to solder gaurd to a knife

    Ugh, I've tried this several times too. I've had the most success by using a silver solder paste where both the silver solder and flux is premixed together. I've also noticed that there should be no direct flame on the solder, heat the components very lightly and indirectly. Heat a corner of your guard or tang not the actual joint. And keep in mind solder flows toward the heat. For steel, I always lay the solder on the joint and attempt to bring it to temp, once it liquefies, pull the torch away immediately. If the solder has turned into little beads, then yep it got too hot, they will not have stuck. For some reason I've always noticed when I tried this that the steel has a very small window of hot enough and too hot. What's funny is that it will seem to ball up and roll off like it's mercury. I've only got steel to steel joins to work about 3 times, one on a knife and 2 others where trial pieces. It seemed to me that if you were able to make a pool of solder and stick something in it and allowed it to cool it worked pretty well. Trying to use it like your sweating two things together like plumbing - I've had little success with that.
  9. Daniel W

    Super Quick Porta bandsaw table.

    It is nice not throwing sparks everywhere for some simple cuts. For me, I'm cutting more sheet metal than normal for some of the flowers I do. The idea is to stack a few plates together to cut multiple plates at once. This was one of those buys that with a coupon it was ridiculously cheep. Trouble is, I really don't have a ton of experience with this brand of tool. It sounds terrible as it runs, but I have no major complaints about it cutting. I'm still on the first blade, it is getting chewed up and may need replaced after a few dozen more uses. Truth is, if I would have bought this product for its full price, and bought the replacement warranty with it, it would be nearly as expensive as other brands. Dewalt and Ridged are usually the brands I trust for heavy use. I believe the one from Dewalt runs for $300. If I find that this set up works well for me, and this saw kicks the bucket, then I'll break down and get the better brand with lesson learned. Or if the discount tool place near mean happens to have one, I might jump on it.
  10. Daniel W

    Super Quick Porta bandsaw table.

    Also should add, these are not recommended to cut any hardened steel. But this little bugger on the low settings chews though mild steel with ease. The pan head screws do concern me a little, but while cutting I didn't notice anything negative about them as the only fixing point. Held true If anything happens I may drill and tap for a larger fastener.
  11. A few months ago I picked up an inexpensive porta band-saw. I've seen so many of these pop up in little shops for their versatility particularly when you make them table mounted. As I've got an idea for how this thing would help in as an inexpensive table top saw, I over thought the whole idea of how to make the table top. A quick search over the net made me feel stupid as I was again overthinking something simple. I used 1/4 10x10in plate steel, and I think you would have to use something stout in this version. Using a 7in angle grinder cut the recess for the blade (overshoot it a little) try to make it a little wider than you think for blade drift. Remove factory cutting table, measure out and line up pilot holes with counter sinks to receive pan head screws. (I used dividers to plot out where I needed to drill holes.) Test fit, make sure everything lines up. Remove plate and weld on a 1/4 x 1/2in angle iron to the edge of the plate. remount plate and clamp in vise - ready to cut. (I did notice that you can buy these tables to fit these prota band-saws. spend money vs, use the stuff I have laying around.) Yes I missed the first pilot hole, but in keeping it simple, to keep the trigger depressed for working, there's just a little 'c' clamp on it for now that tights down.
  12. Daniel W

    Textures in Steel

    If you wanted to make a dark background and keep a light one, there's a few ways to do that. In copper I chased and image and between annealing of the copper didn't pickle it, when I was done I buffed it lightly with steel wool. leaving and Image like this . . . *search search search* Hope those photos work had to go back 2 years of facebook to find them. In steel, it's possible to anneal the material and leave the scale behind to give this same effect. Another way would be to apply a chemical resist like nail polish to the dark areas, and then attempt to polish the highlights in a mild acid path. It is possible to do this process in steel, but it's not done too often. Steel is a different animal for chasing and repousse, the tools have to be abused more. It takes longer as mild steel doesn't anneal as easily and is so much harder than non ferrous material. Traditionally a non-ferrius metal is used like copper (really easy) bronze, silver sheet. You can use aluminum in fact it's probably the cheapest and easiest to practice on. It just doesn't age and look good over time. Chasing and repousse is a pretty quick process to do, takes some reverse thinking though. The tools can be made pretty inexpensively if you have some small tool steel laying around. But dressing them is a pain. Too sharp they'll cut instead of push material, any mark in the tool face will leave itself behind permanently. If it interest you let me know if I can help, I made up a complete guide for a friend on tool making and process.
  13. Daniel W

    Post vice restoration

    Still glad that post can help out with restoring post vises to working condition! looks like you'll need the bracket, shouldn't be too hard accept for where you'll need to make a slot for the 'U' pin and wedge. The spring is easy, just remember to make the lower half with tabs that can wrap around the pivot arm a little. If you set that puppy on the ground as is with the cut off leg, they really work nice, get lost of swing on them. For welding a leg back on . . . I'd talk with Tom Latane. I saw the aftermath of one of his classes with my Touchstone center for craft forge friends the year he had the class there for forging a vise. Aftermath . . . difficulty extreme.
  14. Daniel W

    Possibly a knife

    I build off of historical ideas. A ricasso is - not very common to see until like 1400 -1500, on anything. (don't quote me though) I think if I had added a ricasso it would take away from the look and function I'm going for with the knife. I did want this to look like a traditional Seax, but came out looking a little like Owen Bush style. A ricasso is just a nice design feature that makes a blade look really - well to me modern. Also when you make a ricasso unless you make the bevel proud of it, their a pain to get the base of the blade sharp if you haven't put in a choil. On a small knife like this, I see a choil as a snag point. A ricasso is nice for pinch gripping a knife, which I commonly do, but unless your wrapping your finger around the ricasso there's no real need. Swords would be another story. And yeah, having a ricasso would make the fit up a lot more clean, but I've cheated and chased the surfaces of the guard to close the gaps. I designed this blade to be a maximum slicer for it's size therefore, no flat surfaces to the blade profile, and no ricasso. Every point of this blade will ride the cut. I'm hoping this will make field dressing an animal much easier. This post is pretty old and I can't remember if I had mentioned this is intended to be a piratical hunting knife for a family member. If they use it or not, I want to make it function as much as possible.
  15. Daniel W

    Possibly a knife

    Now this one I've been taking a little too much time on. With the heat, I haven't been getting to the forge, so I decided to do some finish work on this little beast. I made most of my grip for the knife from red maple some bronze/brass and mild steel. The grip is something that just developed as I've been working with it. Originally, I just wanted an egg shaped grip and a slight finger well developed. Its pretty comfortable to my hands. The rear of the grip, I'm still debating what to do. Its a little heavy at the back end - too heavy so I've got to do something about it. I put a near final edge on the knife, and lost it's polish as I slipped while making the final bevel a few times. Sanded it back down to 2000 grit finish. The edge is pretty good, cuts wet paper on the push cut pretty good, but got hung up on the draw cut. A little more fine honing to go. I worked the edge over some hard maple with some medium chops - didn't notice anything on the edge, just nice little chunks of wood flew off. I don't know if I had mentioned before, but I've been wondering about how tough this little blade may be. Before I put the fine edge on this blade, I accidentally dropped the knife in the basement work shop, knowing there was a point on it, it looked like my foot was about to get pieced. As I moved the knife fell tip down into the concrete and I got the cold sweats. I thought for sure the tip was broke but better that than getting a decent poke. fortunately, the concrete got a poke that broke out a small chunk, and the tip of the blade was without flaw. Didn't chip, didn't break, didn't bend. The wet paper cuts. The draw cut is pretty raggy, could be me, could just need more honing. The bottom of the grip, thinking it has a good swell, maybe make this egg shaped to match the top?