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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.

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  1. An ever day knife, first thought that comes to mind is keep it small. No more than 3 inches of blade, and a small palm held handle. A blacksmiths knife/ ladies knife comes to mind as the best edc for a fixed blade. Pocket knife, my favorite pocket knife is a slim knife. Just about everything on the market today has some kind of fat blade that doesn't fit well in the pocket. Old timer knives have it right. For a while I got a kick out of some youtuber knife channel showing off all these new pocket knives, and in my opinion, very few of them are piratical. All of them big fat blade
  2. 60psi is WOW! First question is, this is a high pressure regulator? Looking to clarify if you turn down the pressure and it goes back up the tube there's no push power from the regulator. Most normal regulators for propane are flow regulators. leads to other questions, how many psi at the regulator? A quarter turn? Full turn of the valve?
  3. Tire hammers are no joke, I really liked the one at my local open forge. My only con with it is primary the stroke capacity of it. Its pretty difficult to get top tools under it where the stroke has any power due to how short it is. yours doesn't seem to have that problem!
  4. Although the steeled edge is the face of the tool, and should have no bevel - consider to give it a micro bevel on that side. It should have a chisel edge or this is what people are familiar with, a bevel on just the one side. However, even a chisel edge should have a micro bevel on the facing side as well. I normally do this when honing down my wood chisels by working on the bevel side first up to 2000 grit. The finer the sanding the finer the finish on the wood. But once I get to the 2000 grit polish on the bevel side, I turn the chisel over to the flat side Then I put an old hack saw
  5. I would clean it up and put it back into use!
  6. As stated, the exterior shell doesn't matter too much. I think the shell to my forge is something like 3/16. It was a scrap of mild steel pipe 9in in diameter by 6 feet long. I cut a 10in section off to build my first forge. My second one I've planned to be 7in in length but is going to be a design that Wayne Coe has on his site. 7in may seem very small, maybe piratically too small to do anything, but so far, I don't think I've ever been able to work 10 hot inches of steel all at once without a power hammer around. For bending stuff yes, but general propose - almost never. Wayne's design
  7. For a guy with a hobby shop that wants to break down big steel for tooling, that size is really nice. Although I would love to have a hammer in my hobby shop, it's just not possible. No space for one, can't remodel my existing space to put in a pad for one, and in some instances can't power one. I've never worked with a press, but they have been highly recommended for me to substitute for a hammer. No worry about putting in a new concrete pad, don't have to worry about 3phase motors as much. The biggest advantage is little foot print, being able to mount one to a work table and
  8. If I was being super critical, I would have left that struck end about twice as long but tapered twice as much. Top tools have that tendency to mushroom where most people cut if off, however I've found to reforge it before it gets too bad (then normalize the struck end). I was taught to keep my handled top tools loose and un-wedged, although I've never had the experience of breaking the handle of one that was. A comment made to me was that a top tool that is very tight, takes all the shock into the handle and breaks its over time and use. But all handles eventually break. I've been making t
  9. Think I just found my reading material for the next 10 months there Alan. what a great link!
  10. That's actually an excellent explanation of tuning a ventuire burner. Something I've been struggling with ever since I built mine. And good safety information. I know many people are tempted to store their propane in their garage, but during this time of year where the temp is going to fluctuate back and forth real quick, bad idea. The liquid propane expands and contracts with temp changes causing a possible bleed off. The warning label on the tank is there for a reason.
  11. I've looked at this attachment several times, and I never quite pulled the trigger on it. It's one of those things that I believe I'd grow out of too quick. HF also has an inexpensive floor model belt sander meant for metal work, I continually pass it up. A 2X72 with manual or a VFD built in, after using one, it's hard to beat. I personally find little need for a grinder. And I've also slowly but not totally eliminated ceramic grinding wheels altogether. I almost always pick up a file instead. Draw filing has become something I've enjoyed in the finish work process, but my knives are neve
  12. You can find a lot of different ways around things, takes some out of the norm thinking. I've also seen 1in square tubing that was collapsed on the flats for hardy shanks which is a little better than an angle iron because you can get a little more weld surface on it. Fabricated hot cut hardies, they do work but are not as durable. It's very tempting to make one out of a leaf spring by welding it to a piece of plate. Depending on your welder, your welding skill, and the plate steel your welding to, probably not the best idea. I have seen it done and used them, but the plate their usually we
  13. Vintage anvil hardy holes, are not going to be exact. The few hardy tools I have are fabricated from 1in angle iron that has been shaved down to slip into the hardy hole in all directions. They don't jump around while I use them, nor do they get wedged in.
  14. I don't know why it hasn't occurred to me that with your design the forge I can just lift the lid as I would a grill..... Now I also plan to have the burner come in on a tangent similar to the one I've already built. It's mounted to ride the ceiling of the forge so that it's heat is nice and even, should I consider a different mounting this time around, Maybe horizontal? A nice even heat is nice, but not necessary for my type of work. I have enough supplies (wool and refractory) from my last forge to build a second one of the same size, but smaller is looking better to me. Ho
  15. Hello friends, it's been a long time since I've inquired anything here on the forums. The recent situation of real work totally killed any forge time I've had over the past year and a half. However things are finally looking better and overtime is easing up. I've reviewed some of my home shop set up and have looked at ways to set up and work smarter if that's possible. My original forge is a 3/4 venturi burner and the chamber of the forge is about 4in in diameter by 10in long. Originally I thought this was a good size but as I worked with it over the few years I noticed its limi
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