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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.

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  1. I believe there is a number of reasons for the gap in hilt and blade. One of the primary ones, would be simply they were not made together to begin with. Depending on what era we are thinking on. Swords are made of of various components, all of which may not have been made for one particular sword. For instance, a blade would be made in Germany, and shipped to various location. Once at a new market, swords would be given regional fittings (hilt and pummel). Those hilt and pummels were probably never made with the blade in mind, and if they fit - they just fit. It wouldn't matter to the person who owned it. It just had to be a practical tool that could get some attention *bling*. Blades may not have survived as long as we think them too either. You may have gone into battle, battered your sword to a point that the blade needed to be replaced but kept the fittings for the new blade. There is not much evidence I know of that supports that, but all tools are subject to wear and tear. There is also the amount of people who have monkeyed with historical blades that survive today. The romanticist/Victorians did a lot of what they believed with conservation and interpretation of what swords and armor where like during their time. As for harmonics, overall, I believe Peter Johnson has stated that old smithy may or may not have known of this, its hard to say as swords range of design is so vast.
  2. Basically the fire extinguisher should be in the place of easiest access and left that way. Meaning don't pile things in front of it on the floor, make it the easiest tool to get to. Make sure your extinguisher is appropriate for what every your working with. Typically you find 'C' and that covers a good bit of stuff for the average home and workshop. #2 make sure of the expiration date on your fire extinguisher, when they expire, replace them, most have a life of about 2 years. When you do need to replace an extinguisher, the old one should be expelled of its contents. See what regulations your local authorities have on disposing of them. Don't forget to have one not only in your shop but near the kitchen, and if you have a drier, in the laundry room.
  3. The few guys that I've known of that have worked with stainless, they more or less just curse it. It's tough stuff. A young guy at my open forge tried to forge some stainless, no idea what grade it was. He would get it up to a good yellow heat, hit it a few times, and it would just crumble. I've been learning a hard way that gifted stuff, usually tends to be something that I just cant use or even get rid of. These days I avoid scraps that people think I could use, and I say pretty specific what I'm looking for. Everything else I refuse. Too much effort into trying to making something usable. My goodness how many stacks to leave springs I've been offered . . .
  4. I tend to look at such gifts as "Is it something I really need?" You can talk to a machine shop about swapping it, but expect to only get the scrap value out of it. Although to buy it new would cost $$$, buyers may not be wanting to spend that for a drop. I ran into that trying to trade a piece of 2in x 4 foot length of titanium. Cost a ton to buy it, scrap value was like 6 bucks and that was all anyone was offering so I just gifted it. To use it as an anvil, maybe, but normally I look at stainless and pass.
  5. I would send out some e mails to the smithys you've found. Be upfront and give a general overview of who you are, and what you want to accomplish. I have not met a grumpy blacksmith other than myself, so whoever you reach out to will offer guidance. They may even know of things in your area that you can attend (hammer-in, etc. even other local people). Don't have the cash for a class, Summer job and put some money on the side for one? If you budget, you can do it. I'm going to add this as a minor note, being a teenager, that will have it's pros and cons. #1 your starting out nice and early and your skill will grow. I worked for a school for a while and there is red tape about an adult working with or even near a minor. That would be another topic and don't want to dwell. I would suggest parental supervision, if someone is willing to teach you or even if they invite you see their shop. Hammer-ins, classes and other social events you should be good there, but see if you can get a parent to go with you anyway.
  6. The best resource to find anyone is to do some searches for local guild/clubs then join up right away. There are more people out there working that you know of, it would be like joining up on the forum for the first time when you find out how many locals may be around. An then you'll think where have they been? The vast majority of the people I've come to know, stay away from an online presence other than maybe a etsy page or another means to sell off their stuff. Other smithys are out there, and they are not far off. There is a point where you can read how to do something - and sometimes take it for the only way its done or just the more accepted way to do processes. Through my hobby years, I've been taught various way to achieve how to do some very simple things, but yet I still run into a more experienced person who shows me a different way. The end result is the same, its just a different technique and if i choose to adopt it. Feeling like you are not progressing, and your making more mistakes, or bad habits, think of a different way to do those steps. Overall, getting hands on instruction is going to help you overcome a lot. Every class I had taken in the past had made me feel like I took a leap forward.
  7. Also, its not clear but can you see any layers of Wrought iron? That can give you a little info about age. I think that it was after one of the world wars that hay budden got away from using Wrought iron. Pretty sure it was after WWI. It just looks like you have a lot of horizontal scars.
  8. Basing my opinion on that nice thick top plate, I'm going to lean to saying arm& hammer or hay budden. I've seen a big arm & hammer and their shape is very close to hay bubben. That central ridge on the feet is also a good indicator of hay budden. But the flat base tells me otherwise, also the holding hole in the foot would have me lean away from hay budden. Its hard to exactly tell as all anvils are not perfectly alike. I may be wrong but I thought that trenton's had nice skinny wastes. Over all that is probably a nice high quality anvil judging by that plate. Serial number will tell the tale. Also I should add, I'm not expert on identifying, but I do get a see a lot of hay buddens, this is only my opinion from seeing a good variety of them.
  9. Now that would be a question of did you harvest this walnut or was it already store bought and kiln dried before you worked with it? There is a limited chance that the wood has shrunk around your copper because it is still in a state of stabilizing from one environment to the other. There is only a very minor chance of that if the wood was already kiln dried. I believe the only reason behind shrinkage in wood is the loss of moisture within it. Did anyone bring up clear epoxy for a wood finish? Works pretty similar to crazy glue and has a really good advantage to filling open grain woods. Again it's like a liquid plastic.
  10. It does show the lengths by which people went to make something last a generation or two. This little video has led to a string of others that show a branch of industry that still relied on water for moving their big machines. I find it pretty incredible.
  11. Noted, I do not mean to through it off topic or sound derogatory, and do agree that I've never seen anything strange at a hammer-in event aside from the occasional jeweler showing up doing alchemy of some sort. Never heard of sweating copper to steel before but seen it happened at one. Going to a hammer-in is really exciting, and you will also be surprised that the other people are going to be excited that you attend. I have never met a smith that has not been open about sharing ideas, helping a project along, wanting to know what your interested in making, and let you know of other events. The people who have been keeping the craft alive are really open to teaching the next group of craftspeople. And those people can always help you get started weather its looking for tools, what books to read up on, how to work safely. I always advise to take some safety glasses just in case there are not enough to go around at the hammer-in. Ear plugs are also a good idea.
  12. Typically all the hammer-ins I've gone to are all very welcoming. Its a good networking experience you can meet a lot of people working professionally. If the event is hosted by an actual blacksmith group there are many other aspects they may offer. My local open forge group offers any kind of plans they have available to make items. The larger group in the area offers access to a library, tool swaps etc. list goes on. If the event is hosted by an actual blacksmith organization your fine. I had to leave events at the local craft school after dark because . . . hippy's do what hippy's do. I make that statement cautiously because not all craft school are the same.
  13. Lets hope that repair lasts a little longer than a week. Seriously cool.
  14. As I seems to be taking just about every piece of scrap that I think can one day become a tool or repurposed this is a good display of tools to see. I am often wondering do if need to make/buy a particular tool to make what I want. Lately this has been making me into a hoarder of garbage, taking everyone's beat up old hammers, pipe wrenches and old cold chisels.
  15. I suspected it as the person I got these tools from has a large farm and has asked me about their anvil in the past. Knowing they had a smithy on the farm I wondered if this was indeed a top tool, or something else. Yes that does make sense, I have not yet had the need to try that yet, but I probably will as there always seems to be tools to re-handle. I found that using my ancient hand me down great grandfathers tools is pretty enjoyable. In some ways, with other wood working, an old hand plane is still the only tool to get a job done like, get a twist out of a board.
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