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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.

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  1. Hmm, well those do look pretty good. Your regulator I can't answer for, but I think Tim is guiding you in the right direction. Firstly, spin those chokes all the way open. I don't like this first phase of the Ron Reil burner (there is a whole web site dedicated to making this exact burner) https://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml . So much info on there that the site can be hard to get a grip on. In this configuration it is already very air restrictive, and is very temperamental. Looks much better than my first burner though. Also with the way this is built, your gas jet, (a ver
  2. It is worth mentioning that most of the shop fires I have heard about (among the local friends) and people I know of that have set themselves on fire, It has been from excessive grinding. The potential is always there that the forge is the most likely hazard to cause a fire - but that's the one we are most aware of. I have a dreamed up idea of what I would like in a 'forge workshop' and two of the more important things I've dreamed up is the importance of height (more for over head hoists to lift heavier things.) And some kind of exhaust fan (big) to get the hot air and gas buil
  3. Three burners that thing could get screaming hot! I would take that brick out of the bottom unless your forge welding. Naturally Aspirated ´╗┐burners, are a pain. They need a high pressure regulator to pull air into the system to work right. Although its simple to put one together, there is a lot that goes into building them that makes them work. Correct burner tube length, correct orifice opening, correct air inlet opening. With more photos of your burners, I'm sure someone here can help get your going. As long as you have ceramic blanket under that coating, it will
  4. With the size of space that you are describing, as well as any gas forge, a carbon monoxide detector is a must. Before I shut down my little forge this past year, I bought a carbon monoxide detector with a digital read out. I wanted to try and monitor the CO while I was working - although the detector will only display 20 parts and above. I wanted to monitor even very low levels or even the presence of any CO building up. The idea being am I moving enough air around the garage as I work or not. I work in a 2 door garage with both doors open a shop fan running and another fan set
  5. Yes, in fact a lot of these "specialty wood" stores like a 'woodcraft' have knife making kits these days. Although that's probably not what your looking for. You will find a good variety of hard woods at one of these places, a good wood to start would be maple. Its pretty hard, can be worked with hand tools pretty easily, and is plentiful. You will also find cherry and mahoganies pretty nice to work with. If your really looking for 'burl' woods you can also find them there. I don't go after the African exotic woods as much for anything anymore. Things like rosewood, purple hear
  6. For a while I've decided to keep my hands clear of punched tooling. I mostly did it to avoid burns, but that there is a ouch and a half. I started to transition to good set of tongs and a tong clip. Can always make your top tools "rodded" as well.
  7. That has got a nice shape to it, and I do like the false edge on the underside that gives it that impression of a 'Spur'.
  8. Nice, but what alloy did you use? leaving the face of the tool normalized should be OK as long as your punching through something softer than your punch. The worst experiences I've had with a punch is one that deforms in the eye and locks itself in the eye. Although my slot punch had about 1/8 for its working face, and I just could not keep it cool enough while slot punching a 1in bar. That was more my inexperience.
  9. Never doubt the nib of a fountain or dip pen. I frequently draw with pen and ink, and never found a modern pen that could give the same qualities of character for a line as a dip pen could. Writing with one is enjoyable. You can find really simple inexpensive ones around art stores. Having a fountain pen on hand is like having a old timer pocket knife. It says elegance.
  10. That second knife is . And yes smaller knifes to me are so much more versatile. Although I once carried an old timer knife that is considered long. I'm personally finding knives with shorter grips very handy. Something that just sits in the crease of my palm and pinch gripped. But I'm weird.
  11. It's hard to say for use from my own research if early seaxs were pattern welded. There is a whole thread about historical seaxs around here that you can dive into. As for pattern welding being rare, I don't think so at all. At least when it comes to Saxon swords. Their spears on the other hand, were not based on that document, or if they were it was rare. Seems that pattern welded spears were more during that "viking" era.
  12. I think Its rather hard to make a clear distinction with a "viking" pattern or migration pattern. Other than when you date the artifacts associated with either time period. The time periods are so close together, and cultures related to each other that's its probably easier to look at a date and region for what you're looking to research. You will find that the spear document is rather dry - but very complete. During reading it, I was really surprised at how many different types of spears were present in migration era England.
  13. Yes, as long as you have a good joiner and thickness planer You can really make out big time. Last week I got my hands on some rough cut maple. Although cupped pretty bad once through the joiner and planer, I got really good quality lumber for a fraction of the price of a finished board. Something like $1.50 per foot. The guy did not have any hickory but did say he gets it in regularly. Also if you start to look into rough cut, make sure you also have a good hand plane. I found it's the only tool for the job to get a warp or twist out of a board before planing it.
  14. I only got about 1/4in under the entire anvil. Can always pick her up and lay another heavy layer down. Alan's also probably got the easiest and simplest way to secure the anvil down that I used. Get some heavy flat stock, lay it on top of the foot of the anvil, and let the bottom edge rest on the stump (or 4x4 bundle) at about a 45 degree angle. Using that like a big washer put big lag screws through the flat stock and it holds very well. (he's probably got a pic that better shows what I'm attempting to explain.) Its a really good simple way to hold down the anvil
  15. Hmmm, I don't know of too much info specific to 'Vendel' as it seems to be wrapped in a larger time period of artifacts 'migration period.' If you looking for information about blades, "the sword in Anglo Saxon England" touches on migration era blade construction. Not the seax, but seems to refer to blade construction during the early migration period. Another lengthy read would be this http://etheses.dur.ac.uk/10354/ That document is rather old, but has tons of information on grave finds from the early Saxon period regarding spears. When you mention
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