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Daniel W

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About Daniel W

  • Birthday 08/24/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA
  • Interests
    Art, History, Mythology, Iron working and anything that deal with craftsmanship.
  1. Daniel W

    Recent lucky aquisition

    Getting the an entire set up like that for $300, you made out like a bandit!
  2. You can always rent a set of tanks as well. Its what I do, seems a little expensive. But if I have to move out of the area the rental place has to take the tanks back. Not to mention that they are always up to code.
  3. Andy I started out with a similar torch set up. Within one year of use I had to replace both regulators. Not to mention they only come with flow checks not flash back arrosters. Also for cutting, you may only have 10 -15 minuets of fuel. Its better for as a portable torch welder.
  4. Daniel W

    Some may call this junk . . .

    In a bucket of old hammers, I saw what looked like a cut off of a leaf spring, and began to chuck it on the side. Until I saw the other end of it. *score* Someone spent a heck of a lot of time cutting and grinding this thing into a standard axe pattern eye for a drift. It's the little things that make my day! It's just undersized for a felling axe eye but just about right for the little hatchet I pulled apart a week ago. I'm getting another step closer to my axe making goals. I know that leaf spring is not the greatest idea for drift material - I plan on cutting a handle out of most of the unshaped portion and use it until it's use-able, or explodes. Some may call a leaf spring junk, but when I find it in the shape of a drift, I call it a treasure!
  5. Daniel W

    Just a Rant

    I've gotten the 'holy crap why are you so expensive' quite a lot. I've also got the demoralizing scoff of being astronomically priced when people inquire about things. So I tried something new and it seems to have worked. The last estimate I made up I wrote out my process for making the item, and also marked the time involved it would take each step of the process. Showed the person this is why I have to charge what I do - not to mention the tools that I may need to build for one of the processes and how much time that will take. At that point the client/customer realized how much of my time was going into his item and after that - there was no haggling on price he just accepted. The comments of wally world - which in my mind is someone who really is not interested in buying - its just someone probing to see how low you will go on pricing. In the past when I was not thinking - I would get the occasional person who would ask for a better price on a flower or other work. When I'd break down and say yeah I'll do it for a little less - I would get the phrase "OK, I will let you know." Never to hear from that person again about it. That demoralizing scoff has now become a different feeling. I do my best not to sound like a smart a$$ when someone says I could "get that a walmart for less" and my comment of "Then by all means you should get it." I've been finding that those are just not customers, their just people getting in the way of the real customers. The real customers (which I am very surprised to be finding) may take a while in between projects, but I've had some recent 'holy crap' moments were people have just accepted my pricing without question - and I never expected them to.
  6. Daniel W

    Best solder to color-match carbon steel?

    For low temp solder to steel, I found that the paste solder works best, but is still a pain to flow properly. I've had limited success with it. Your steel must be decreased and perfectly clean. Also take into consideration if there is a general 'patina' on what your working on, the solder will not look the same. it will never match the natural patina - it may always look like solder. You will be able to tell the difference in the two different metals over time - unless your project is polished. Others have good experience with soldering steel with low temp solders, but I've found that high temp solders work much more like you expect them too with steel. Also, for the low temp solder paste - my best results for bonding only happen when the solder was hot enough to stay molten and I placed another piece of material in that molten solder.
  7. Daniel W

    Plasma Cut Tomahawk?

    I've seen that done on the youtube, and wondered how durable that it in comparisons to forge welding it in. I'm guessing it would be relatively the same as long as you have a good solid weld. It's something I've never seen in person nor heard any of my smithy friends around I know suggested it. Could be worth a shot thought. For an axe that I think on, punch and drift the eye, bevel the welding surfaces, run a few beads, forge out a little then blend. I got some junk steel around. I always got junk steel around.
  8. Daniel W

    Just a Rant

    Your not the only one how has come across this. I've worked with guys that have found their things on Ebay the seller attempting to pass them off as originals. When it comes to knife repair work, I have done quite a few in comparison to knives I've made from scratch. I also feel a lot more comfortable repairing a knife for someone rather than taking on a job making a new knife for someone at this point. (legal stuff) I've had several really crummy knives come in the door that were just 'heirloom' knifes from their grandfather or father, or other family member that are really a pain in the butt to fix just because their poor quality knifes. I always find out that I need to almost rebuild so much of them that I basically spent as much time on it as if I would have made a copy of it. I have a small camp axe in my work shop right now that someone wanted rehung - it was modified a little by the clients friend. When I got the axe, I found it failure was an epoxied in handle - which also makes trying to find a new handle that fits it a pain in the rectum because it will not wedge right. I had to spend a day knocking out all the old epoxy, lost 2 days trying to find a handle that would then fit the eye which could not be found to my satisfaction, in the end I spent another day draw knifing a handle down that fit. So I just made a harbor freight axe cost 4x's what it's sold for, but it's what the guy wants.
  9. Daniel W

    Plasma Cut Tomahawk?

    I havn't hit the stuff yet Alan but my steel supply guy teased me with a few chunks of D2 just yesterday when I went to pick up some mild. I may try my hand at it one day just to give my experience with it rather than just what the other smithys tell me. When I think about axe making processes, its very hard to get around making a tool axe without either welding a good bit in, or making an entire body of tool steel. Either way it's going to be a challenge. When I broke down a recent job, making a symmetrical wrap, punch and drift with welded bit, or entire body of tool steel, to do this by hand all came out to take relative the same amount of time. I've never messed with all steel axes, personally I don't care for steel handles. But with doing an all steel axe, you can cut out one of the biggest parts of the process, forming the eye.
  10. Daniel W

    Plasma Cut Tomahawk?

    I guess if it's legal in your neck of the woods . . . I really would not carry around an axe (I'd like to). . . unless your on a job site (where a tool axe is appropriate) personal property, or out camping. Axes are a little tough to hide. Your idea of making basically a blank nothing wrong with that. As for steel, D2 in the process you are thinking about is possible, but from all that I've read and talked over with other smiths - D2 is tough to work with. It's an air hardening steel, and from what I understand of it, it's a stock removal process to work with it. As even when it's at forging temps it's still like hitting granite. My best pocket knife is made of D2, it's very ware resistant holds an edge better than anything I've ever used, but will eat sharpening stones.
  11. Daniel W

    Chain link

    I was also going to mention from your pictures, your steel looks very crumbly almost 'burnt'. Examine the link that has sheared, if it looks like salt - it's burnt this will never weld at this point it's basically rust. Boiling borax might be a good way to tell if you are at good temp - I still go by color of the material. If this is mild steel, you want high yellow - practically translucent. On the very point of molten. My home built forge is also oxidizing - making some form of bullet proof scale that on carbon steel will not brush off grind off nor break off after an acid bath. (I really got to see if I can fix this the next warm day we have.) Other than possible over oxidizing environment, depending on how many heats it takes you to make your link will also cook the steel to the point that its just plain brittle.
  12. Daniel W

    Can I use a farriers rasp on steel?

    There we go, a good topic all about filing and the process of draw filing.
  13. Daniel W

    Can I use a farriers rasp on steel?

    Hot rasping with a farriers rasp makes for great stock removal. it's fast effective, pretty laborious, but not really something I see too often that knife makers do. You can hot rasp a knife to general profile with one - and maybe true up your bevels before you do most of your typical grinding work. I've never tried this before, mostly when I'm hot rasping its to hog off material that I just don't need or true up a shape that I just can't seems to match with a hammer. Typically, you do not file cold steel with a farriers rasp, the teeth are not really meant for that - their built like large fingernail files to rough out and flatten horse hoofs. Normally when a 'blacksmith' gets them - a 'farrier' as already dulled down the teeth through use and the blacksmith guy loves them that way. Brand new they still work - they tend to bite and stick though. If you are using a farriers rasp - it's best to use it when the metal is hot. All else - horse hooves or wood. There is a great topic about files on another section I'll have to find it and link you up to it. I hope I answered your question about rasps.
  14. Daniel W

    Copper patina processes

    I don't know if this will help you any Zeb, a few years ago while I was attending a class, the studio manager got a commission at one of the historic buildings in the area (a pretty well known building). He was asked to remake the hardware for the kitchen which was also this nice rich pinkish brown color. He debated back and forth about what solution to use to achieve that rustic aged color to match the originals - and I'm pretty sure he settled on something based with mustard. I've always thought that was strange and never had an application to try it out. I don't know if its the vinegar in it, mustard just in general, PH of the concentration of the mixtures that gives different colors - copper in whatever color or age it is, always seems to look good.
  15. Hey you never know someone else out there might think it's just as cool and drop what you need on it. The only thing I see about that sword, which is discussed in the topic, something throws me off about it. Typically, swords arch to their point not have a hard angle to the tip. Makes me think it's tampered with, I could always be wrong. And I would make the patterned welded version not the mono-steel. But that's because I like pattern welded stuff.
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