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Daniel W

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Everything posted by Daniel W

  1. You can also try to stippling the background to help set it apart. Basically using a very fine peen punch tool and making small depressions around the lettering. fantastically nice job.
  2. Curled maple might as well be a 4 letter word! My first pipe hawk I had to use it because I like the look of it so much. My saw at that time practically bounced off of it. Since then I still have not had much luck with curled hard woods. Don't be afraid to harvest a tree on your own one day, The most unique lumber I have in my work shop is from a tree no one would ever think of. The trouble is waiting for your own lumber to dry and where to store it.
  3. That is a very desirable piece of lumber with good straight grain. Before I found a local business that helped out with finding rough cut, I would use wheel barrow handles for a source of hickory and ash. I'm always trying to find things at the local big box stores. Since I've been finding the local raw lumber, you can't beat the price of it. Secondly, I like making my handles from scratch the more I do it. Making them from scratch allows you do take the care to orientate the grain the way you want it. And just for any curiosity, my primary forge hammer (a little 1.5lb cross peen
  4. If your making a full size felling axe, yes, the better the grain is to the cutting edge the better. Although if your making a little camper axe or something smaller, it's still better but not a deal breaker if the grain is not in prefect alignment. A lot of already processed lumber is hard to find with the grain you want as it's made to make the most boards as possible from whatever tree it came from. I also look for grain run out, you want to get the longest run of grain in the handle that is possible.
  5. At that price there is on one thing to say - GET IT NOW! If the date is correct that's probably a Wrought body with a steel face. Nothing at all wrong with that mine is made up that way as well. Those are good edges on there too, if they are original. If they are not, still not a big deal buy it!
  6. I also bought up a HF portaband a few years back as a "starter" saw. I quickly changed out the throat plate for a big piece of plate with an angle iron welded on to one side. In this way it works in a vise as a vertical saw. Its tough to beat with cutting soft steel, it's biggest advantage to me is less sparks and dust. The disadvantages of it, you get what you pay for basically, it does the job but is not as well built as others on the market. And I do experience blade drift with it. Other brands out there are offering a small table attachment that bolts into the saw which is be
  7. There's some discussion I have within there that express my opinion on "Hammer shock" and how to modify a handle to reduce it. I think it might have been pointed out that correct hammer swing and grip eliminates most of the shock. What you do to the handle becomes personal preference, although it's my opinion that a skinny neck on your hammer will help a lot.
  8. Not bad, I found myself looking for a way to save a project and had to do some similar steps. Without access to a coal forge this year, I found that the only way I'd have any success was to MIG the carbon steel to the body. It has its technical problems being welded in that way, but survived.
  9. Seems to be a trend with people interested in Pipehawks the first question I get is "can I throw it?" You throw it, chip it, bend it, break it, and want to pay me to fix it OK. There's also the quote from the guy who taught me, "Would you throw $300-$600?" Overall anyone who has bought something from me I've given them a small over view. As most my sales are art related things. Usually it comes with the disclaimer, its steel - no matter what coating is on it, it will eventually rust but it can always be painted if needed. This is decorative, if you run it over the a truck you wi
  10. The blue stuff, may be an actual ridigizer that makes the wool stiff and not pliable. If we have looked over the same videos you might have seen "water glass" or cement sealer (sodium sillicate?) used as a glue to glue the wool to the forge walls. Not really needed. General rule of thumb for gas forges is 2" of wool (2600F rated), and then a castable refractory to give the wool more durability. I've worked with many guys over the years that did not coat their forges, and after one day of welding it's torn to shreds. A lot of the materials you will not find at a loc
  11. Move the forge away from anything you believe is combustible. Keep a clean house, keep combustibles away from the heat source. My forge is set up in the center of my garage when I set up shop, so all I worry about is rising heat. Have a ball valve somewhere in your plumbing system to shut down the forge as fast as possible. I found some "fire proof" building insulation a few months ago. Once I opened it to use it, I realized what it might have been and now wish I never found the stuff. So beware of things that are stated as "fire proof".
  12. Why are you afraid of the ceramic wool? fibers etc? As long as you coat the blanket and seal it the wool is relatively safe to work around. Making a forge of just hard refractories will make a forge that is a huge pizza stone. It will take a lot of energy to get it hot, and once it is it will stay hot for hours after the burner is off. There is a ton of info on building a forge in the pinned topics section and a lot of links. I suggest before you go too far into the build read through all those threads. (learn from my mistakes in building a forge) Don't skimp on the in
  13. If you try the Jaw inserts you'll find that its far faster and easier a fix than welding grinding or even brazing parts onto these older vises. Leg vises grip by a pinch rather than a lateral squeeze so when using inserts that are above a 1/4 inch they don't grip as well if you don't have the stock fully in the jaws. However rusty old angle iron works well, and copper jaws will help on nor scaring something you don't want to leave a mark on. Other tooling to do with these vises are also little spacers so that you don't rack the jaws. Leg vises usually have a little bit of play in
  14. Welcome to axe making - its more of a challenge than what most think. A good start, keep at it. I have about as many axe bodies in the scrap pile as I do finished ones trying various methods. After a lot of time, I'm finally starting to get more successes than fails at them.
  15. Not to knock things off the original topic, but what is the difference in identifying an asbestos fiber and any other fibrous manufactured material? I just say that as a general question, over all it is a better health and safety practice to coat ceramic wool as all fibrous material should be handled with caution. There almost should be a rule in the black smith hand book "don't work with plated steels." and right next to that "don't work with un-coated ceramic wool!"
  16. I'd tell ya to stick with the solid fuel forge if you can. There is no limit on what a coal/coke (or charcoal) forge can make. I was taught with coal, but use propane as I don't have a dedicated work space for that kind of set up. I use a coal forge any time I've got one available. With good fire tending, a solid fuel forge is very versatile. Propane on the other hand I struggle with. Mostly as I'm not making knifes very often. The strange sized things I tend to make usually don't like to fit into a propane set up. And it very much limits the size of the axes you might want to m
  17. Hmm, well those do look pretty good. Your regulator I can't answer for, but I think Tim is guiding you in the right direction. Firstly, spin those chokes all the way open. I don't like this first phase of the Ron Reil burner (there is a whole web site dedicated to making this exact burner) https://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml . So much info on there that the site can be hard to get a grip on. In this configuration it is already very air restrictive, and is very temperamental. Looks much better than my first burner though. Also with the way this is built, your gas jet, (a ver
  18. It is worth mentioning that most of the shop fires I have heard about (among the local friends) and people I know of that have set themselves on fire, It has been from excessive grinding. The potential is always there that the forge is the most likely hazard to cause a fire - but that's the one we are most aware of. I have a dreamed up idea of what I would like in a 'forge workshop' and two of the more important things I've dreamed up is the importance of height (more for over head hoists to lift heavier things.) And some kind of exhaust fan (big) to get the hot air and gas buil
  19. Three burners that thing could get screaming hot! I would take that brick out of the bottom unless your forge welding. Naturally Aspirated ´╗┐burners, are a pain. They need a high pressure regulator to pull air into the system to work right. Although its simple to put one together, there is a lot that goes into building them that makes them work. Correct burner tube length, correct orifice opening, correct air inlet opening. With more photos of your burners, I'm sure someone here can help get your going. As long as you have ceramic blanket under that coating, it will
  20. With the size of space that you are describing, as well as any gas forge, a carbon monoxide detector is a must. Before I shut down my little forge this past year, I bought a carbon monoxide detector with a digital read out. I wanted to try and monitor the CO while I was working - although the detector will only display 20 parts and above. I wanted to monitor even very low levels or even the presence of any CO building up. The idea being am I moving enough air around the garage as I work or not. I work in a 2 door garage with both doors open a shop fan running and another fan set
  21. Yes, in fact a lot of these "specialty wood" stores like a 'woodcraft' have knife making kits these days. Although that's probably not what your looking for. You will find a good variety of hard woods at one of these places, a good wood to start would be maple. Its pretty hard, can be worked with hand tools pretty easily, and is plentiful. You will also find cherry and mahoganies pretty nice to work with. If your really looking for 'burl' woods you can also find them there. I don't go after the African exotic woods as much for anything anymore. Things like rosewood, purple hear
  22. For a while I've decided to keep my hands clear of punched tooling. I mostly did it to avoid burns, but that there is a ouch and a half. I started to transition to good set of tongs and a tong clip. Can always make your top tools "rodded" as well.
  23. That has got a nice shape to it, and I do like the false edge on the underside that gives it that impression of a 'Spur'.
  24. Nice, but what alloy did you use? leaving the face of the tool normalized should be OK as long as your punching through something softer than your punch. The worst experiences I've had with a punch is one that deforms in the eye and locks itself in the eye. Although my slot punch had about 1/8 for its working face, and I just could not keep it cool enough while slot punching a 1in bar. That was more my inexperience.
  25. Never doubt the nib of a fountain or dip pen. I frequently draw with pen and ink, and never found a modern pen that could give the same qualities of character for a line as a dip pen could. Writing with one is enjoyable. You can find really simple inexpensive ones around art stores. Having a fountain pen on hand is like having a old timer pocket knife. It says elegance.
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