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Philippe Brasseur

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  1. Hey Andrew, The pump has a way to low pressure. For enough power, you would need a very big cylinder which in the end will result in poor speed at 16 ccm/rev at 1400 rpm. But go for the other parts like you mentioned. Valves, fitlers and such can easily get very expensive when purchased new in good quality. If you want to use your 3,5" cylinder, make sure to get a minimum of 25MPa pressure. This will yield about 15 to (without pressure loss in valves and pump effieciency and such). If your pump does 16ccm/rev with 25MPa , this will need a good! 7.5 kW Motor with some power reserve capacity
  2. I have some time to spare now and I want to get into some more serious forging. Unfortunately, I can't setup an air hammer because of noise and vibration, therefore I am building a press. The press is inspired from builds of Thorsten Pohl and Fithjof G├╝ttler. I made some drawings, got double-t steel profiles and purchased a hydraulic aggregate. Only things still missing are a cylinder and a differential valve to boost the speed in light duty operation. I am still not sure if this is the best way to fix the ram onto the cylinder though. The welding of the piston rod to the ram should not be
  3. When you refer to brine, do you mean a saturated solution of water and sodium chloride or more like a seawater high concentration or some other salt apart from sodium chloride? Can someone explain to me what the mechanisms/benefits of brine over water are? Is it heat capacity/thermal conductivity? While i am at it, what edge thickness would you gus recommend for a tanto style knive of .6 to 0.8/ carbon content. I was aiming for 1mm but am not sure if that might be too thin even with clay hardening.
  4. Hey Alan and James, I preferably dont grind wet, but sometimes you are not free to decide. Thanks Alan for all the links the cylon thingy looks nice to have.
  5. Hey Gary, I didn't know there was some controversy about film rights. But then again, considering the date of shooting and the fact that the film is made by/for a public education facility I wouldn't understand why people would bother. I agree on the not using high carbon steel as in knife blades, I would assume that the steels used were probably tough more than anything but I don't know much about gun barrels. I also think, that the billet is welded very hot, but not to the point that it was sparkling. To my knowledge, this works ok with most high carbon steels. To me it is astonishi
  6. Somebody shared a video on damascus rifle smithing on facebook, perhaps you guys enjoy it as well.
  7. Hey Folks, Since I have taken bladesmithing a bit more serious lately, I often spend hours in front of the grinder (feeling a bit like a pro sometimes ). Although I wear a good facemask, I imagine some dust to penetrate it or at least to linger in the air for hours and affecting me when I dont wear the mask. My Question is, what kind of industrial vaccum cleaner (running on 230V) would be appropriate to take away all the dust from the belt grinder (also operating water cooled). What are the specs that I am looking for and can you recommend any brand (available in germany)? Thanks f
  8. You take a pipe and weld the bottom. Then you fill it with scrap/filings together with kerosine/candlescrap or so. Then seal the top except for a tiny hole. Now you can forge weld it as you would do with a normal billet. The pipe will hold all the scrap together while the kerosine will provide a reducing atmosphere in the pipe for as long as it takes to pass the first heat.
  9. Hey Petr, thanks for sharing. Now I can at least dream to make such wonderful things
  10. Hey Petr, nice work. This is perhaps the right moment to ask in a humble way, how the bezel is set into antler or wood or anything where soldering isnt possible. Is glue involved or do you hammer the bezel into the holes?
  11. Hey Joshua, perhaps the tie wire is not very much suited for the hearth application. I once smelted spring steel in a hearth and it really didnt go well with welding. With wrought iron or bloom fluff I had no trouble at all and I was using the same air and furnace design. Perhaps try mild steel with similar parameters and see what comes out then. Best of luck
  12. Really cool vid. Cant wait to see the follow up on this.
  13. Oh dammit O1 has much less Mn than I thought it had (switched that probably with O2 in my mind which still has a little less than 2842 but will air harden when bladecrosssections are reached. For SURE ). I guess it still could air harden to spring hardness depending on the cross section. But let me just tell you that what it says on the package or the datasheet about quenching mediums is most of the time way to brutal for blades (because these are desinged for industrial measurements). For a quick example (sorry I dont have any american datasheets with detailed info) if you take 2842 (0,9%
  14. I would go higher with the temperature (bright yellow is ok) and compress the billet right after fluxing when still red hot. I find that O1 (1.2842 in germany) and 15N20 (1.2796) is a very easy combination to forge weld, even at lower temperatures, so there might be some other problems than temperature. The shearing is most likely due to the air harden ability of O1 (manganese content!). Try cooling it even slower (near the fire or on top of your gas forge if you happen to use one) and pass more welding heats with only light hammering to let the welds settle more. Good luck
  15. Wow really nice. I didnt know there were instruments like this. Perhaps you can upload the file on an other plattform and post the link? Otherwise you might have to write some emails i could imagine . Rapidshare might be a help or other similar plattforms
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