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Daniel J. Luevano

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About Daniel J. Luevano

  • Birthday 08/11/1992

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aurora,Colorado
  • Interests
    Precision machining, Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Parkour, Fantasy, medieval things, hiking mountains

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  1. I'm using the 0.035" tip you mentioned on my burner post....so you're saying the tip shouldn't be deep into the nipple? That I've put the welding tip too close to the opening there? The thing is I thought I needed to have it further in than I originally had it (before the flame was just coming out of the end of the burner but now it starting at the air intake side, so now the burner is heating up way too much.
  2. Got my forge set up outside and fired up the burner, not sure if I need to get even more air flow or if something else is wrong, seems to be kind of sputtering even at higher pressures. (The flame also seems to be igniting inside the pipe now, used to not...so not sure whats causing that) 20201012_191844.mp4
  3. So this is something I've been really planning on doing all year, my charcoal forge fell apart and I decided, living in colorado with all the fire bans we get, that I should finally switch to propane, I mean why not? I've experienced the joys of propane from a friends forge and my time on forged in fire (also the pains of propane as well) so with a new forge i will also re do everything else. This includes: - a new single burner brick and clay forge - a new atmospheric burner - modifying my block of steel anvil - creating a new anvil stand - a stand for the actual forge So I have a fair amount done already but here we go. I know what you're thinking "a plywood box for your anvil?" Kinda working with a limited budget, I decided on a box....not even a trapezoid or anything like that, just a box...its surprisingly sturdy, I also added a bit of support in the middle inside the box, so I'm not at all worried about the stand being able to stand up to a beating, I'm also going to seal the box to weather elements and water. So the ASO, I've had for about 7 years at this point, cleaned up thr face a bit and rounded half of it to mimic a horn, I've got some heavy steel plates, might cut a hardy hole and such into a section of plate and add it to the stand on the sides of the anvil. So its on the smaller side, wouldn't be able to hold a sword sized bullet but could hold mostly everything else, its also temporary until I can get more bricks and kao wool to build a proper larger forge. I used a sand, bentonite clay, plaster mixture for the "fire cement". Again temporary.... This is my burner, its simple to make and mostly cheap (cheaper than buying a already made one) and works pretty well for how simple it is, its the "candle v2 burner" https://youtu.be/67rxU02fv6o I'll be updating this topic as I progress through to finishing everything!
  4. So just so I'm clear a good neutral flame will produce less dragons breath But enough to keep it from being too oxidizing right?
  5. This may be a complex question but how would I figure out how much space I have on my flare on the top there? I mean I guess I could just try to unscrew it with trial and error and if that doesn't work change it to a "T" style air intake..
  6. I dont have a picture currently of it but it looks just like this....that may be an easy fix by just unscrewing the cap a bit to allow more of a gap
  7. Good morning everyone, Been a few years since I posted last but I'm getting back into smithing more than a time or two every few months So last night I built a very simple propane burner, I haven't tested it in my newly built propane forge yet but I think its burning too fuel rich...I have a high pressure valve and such so I don't think that's the problem, or maybe I'm not opening it enough, this is my first experience actually working with a burner that wasn't already set up right. I'm using a mig welding tip for the fuel to come out. Could it be that there isn't enough air flow? Or that its igniting too early? Or should I add a flare to the mouth of the burner to help with the air fuel mixing? 20201001_195300.mp4
  8. So when I said 8 scoops i meant 8, 8oz scoops of kitty litter and 4 8oz scoops of sand. After having the forge for a while and using it for a while it's falling apart, so I think it needed more sand and some straw to bind it better.
  9. honestly high carbon will actually work harden more than low carbon steel, but thats all and you can easily anneal it. as far as getting a good source of contrasting steel, you could get some old bandsaw blades or circular saw blades that you don't use anymore that have a high nickle content and use those with some mild steel, and just heat those to critical after forge welding those together to anneal them and draw the carbon out.
  10. Ah totally forgot to list that haha, and I never really understood that fact about the edge, what would this be considered then? The steel is 1095 with 15n20.
  11. So I had made some Damascus a while back and decided to finally make a knife out of half of the billet. I also acquired essentially a whole tree worth of cherry wood from a neighbor who was cutting it down. I'll post some pictures of the pieces i used to make the handle as well. Dimensions; OAL: 11.5" Blade: 7" handle: 4.5" I couldn't remember the layer count but If i remember the original billet size it's probably only about 28 layers, but I love low layer counts for a simple stack and weld pattern. Here is the piece of cherry wood i cut my handle out of, it's a intersection burl from about the middle of the tree . I had to saw it by hand because it was just too large and oddly shaped for my bandsaw to cut, so I ended up getting a Japanese style hand saw, I recommend even the cheapest ones, they're very easy to use and much more comfortable to use. Here is half of the piece i cut off the "stump". I tell you, cherry wood is some hard stuff to cut, and it'll take a beating! Loved working with it though I was going to go for scales for the handle but ended up just making a block for the handle and burning it on, it's not easy cutting cherry wood for a scale based hidden tang. I also decided to add some antler as a bolster and loved that. I do all of my Damascus steel by hand, my friends that are interested usually don't have time to be my power hammers and I have no presses, treadle hammers, or power hammers. You learn a lot about how to quickly but gently move the steel when you don't have access to any "power hammers" when you want to make a billet. But I am usually able to make a decent sized billet in only a few firings of my forge (this knife was made from half of a billet) with a nice layer count (I usually don't draw it out real long and thin to then do a multi stack to decrease how many times i have to fold the steel, but I may start doing that, get a really high layer count and save some forging time.) I had originally intended the billet to be part of a sword but I realized I didn't have the right forge to create the whole billet I wanted to make, and I also realized I needed more steel than I had at the time. Though I have recently made a longer forge that gets hotter way easier than my old brake drum forge, I am probably going to make more swords and knifes to perfect my skills before spending the time and effort on my first Damascus steel sword. P.S. Dog faced hammers pack one hell of a punch! I forged the knife in maybe half an hour to an hour from the billet half mostly using my 2lb Dog faced hammer. I also found that white vinegar mixed with a citrus juice (lime or lemon juice) salt and hot water makes for a really fast etchant any thoughts?
  12. 3.5 hammers aren't too bad, but you'll find you can work faster with a lighter hammer, the heavier hammers are mostly used for moving material, so either beginning work on some stock or working on a billet, lighter hammers can move a lot of material if used right and depending on the kind of hammer. I typically use a 2lbs hammer for most of my work, though I use whats called a dog face or Japanese hammer, you get a lot more power out of your strikes with that style of hammer. You shouldn't sustain much extra damage if you use a heavier hammer but it can cause damage if you don't hold the hammer right, you mostly only want to grip the handle with your fore finger (pointer finger) and your thumb, the rest of your fingers are just supporting the handle when you hit the metal, you want the hammer to be able to wiggle slightly in your hand.
  13. make what i made I eventually added more wood down to the floor and expanded it out a little bit but it required way less materials to build than a conventional box style shelter or four walled shelter. and you should make one of these to compliment that blower
  14. In all honesty you could build a better forge with clay (I used cheap cat litter and sand) and build a bellows for probably less than $100 (or if manual air isn't a must just use a hair dryer haha) You could easily build one similar to mine, i used a steel pipe from the hardware store with holes drilled into it for my airflow. I get steel up to welding heat in no time with very little forced air The clay i made was 8 cups of kitty litter (Bentonite clay) and 5 cups of quickrete sand.
  15. I am of the same mind, I used to be a member of the RMS (Rocky Mountain Smiths) and left because the only benefit was the monthly article they sent out, which usually wasn't much. as well as access to classes and workshops that you still had to pay for. Which were usually 2-3 hours outside of denver. I feel like I have learned way more from the smiths on here than i did from the smiths in ABS or RMS. I get the idea of being able to say that a major organization recognizes you as a journeyman or master.
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