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riley weiss

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Everything posted by riley weiss

  1. i have a jhm #1 anvil, its a 125 lb. it is in really good shape. I am the only one that used it and i only used it for about a year. I'm asking 500$ for it. you can call or text me. 262 949 2629
  2. alright thanks man! ill give it a try. if it works or if it doesn't matter the steel is free haha
  3. so i do go by the saying "there is no such thing as a dumb question." but i can't find this on the web so i thought i would ask the people who know about metal then the internet. is there such a thing as WA7 steel? i found a 12 foot 1/2 rod at work. the only thing i could find on it is that it is a carbon steel. so would this be good for knives??? thanks riley. and i know i have not posted anything in a long time. i have a few i need to get some pics up.
  4. personally i think that is a sexy blade haha. i kinda want one
  5. thanks for the info guys. i will try the your guys normalizing ways from now on. i really appreciate all the help i really do! so the new blade is started! and i ran out of gas.... this project is kicking my ass... haha i will get some pics of forging up tm and of the old blade that broke. thank you all.
  6. thanks for the info guys. i normalize the blade before hardening. heat it up and let it cool down. is that the right way?? and Alan i think your right. that i hit it when it was too cold. and it is very tempting to get one last blow in. and lets hope that the 3rd time will work
  7. thanks for the info alan, to the part about changing the environment of working the metal. no i have not it has been the same. new metal table? no don't have one. i usually let it cool down after forging in a bucket of ashes. which i have done with all of them. i dont quench the blade till hardening. with the problem of the cold shut i fixed this time. i didn't take pics of the blade in forging state. what i think the problem is that it got to cold and i hit it too hard... which would cause stress that i did not see before hardening. or this probable not the problem but c
  8. yeah james its new 5160. and Alan i am working it yellow to red. it may not be hot enough but ive never had a problem like this.
  9. i was forge at hot red, and its still messed up
  10. so i dont know what im doing wrong.. the new blade cracked even worse.. i heated up more like alan said to do. i watched it. and it cracked. brand new 5160... some one tell me what the hell im doing wrong.
  11. i heat till dull reddish and magnet check. and a mix of peanut oil and motor oil heated up.
  12. haha yeah steel is strange at times. the crack is about 2 inches down from the tip, near the spine of the blade. and i was thinking about sending the blade out but i don't know who to send it to. and i have only had one other blade crack.
  13. thanks man. i have been the grip is alot better..... but unfortunately the blade cracked during hardening... so i will restart tomorrow.
  14. thanks for the info man, i never have worked with stainless. i will have to get some and try it out. here are some more pics of progress of the blade. any comments welcome.
  15. yeah i was gonna not put that in after talking with my friend. i just forgot to get rid of it on the drawing. the blade that he wants to be based off of has a hook there. so i thought that looked good to. but it would get hung up on stuff.
  16. here is the design of the blade. and the starting of it. any comments welcome.
  17. hello i am trying to figure out how to post pics in comment section of posts. any ideas thanks
  18. thank you very much man. that was helpful. I'm gonna get some 5160. and ill upload a pic of the design of the blade soon.
  19. would O-1 tool steel be good? i want to know which is the best steel to use. im still new all the steel types and what not. i just use old springs and saw blades. so this is all new to me.
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