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shane wink

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About shane wink

  • Birthday 03/23/1971

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    edged tools, hunting, fishing,smithing, my wife, kids and grand kids
  1. Great! I will remove the other layer and open the chamber up to 6.5 and place the 1.50 burner on there with the 60cfm fan to start.
  2. Thanks Alan. The doors go all the way through across from one another and its hard to see that in the pic but do you mean it may need an additional opening as well? Yes the big one melted the nozzle off the first few times I ran it trying in the horizontal to get the gas mixer correct several years ago which is why its just been in the shop lol!
  3. So back on topic, I cut the ports into the forge and with a 1" thick hard firebrick laying in the port for a floor I still have the 4 x 2 port. The internal chamber measures 4.5 in Dia from top to bottom. Is this too small of a chamber? I can take a layer of insulation out making the internal 6" Dia if that would be better. Is the 2" pipe fitting burner with 100 cfm fan on it overkill for a vert this size? As mentioned I also have the 1.50 fitting burner and another fan thats 60 cfm. I ordered some more ridgidizer and satanite since I pulled the kaowool out and started over. i will get a pic of the forge showing the progress but not having built one like this before I am just unsure of a couple things so any help on the burner size and the chamber size before I apply the coatings would be welcomed.
  4. I am just a blade and hawksmith and dont plan to do any ornamental work. I use the coal forge for brooches, bodkins, strikers and such but my interest are mainly blades and hawks. Any issues with cutting a thin wide slot rather than a tall skinny one? Lol I will add moving L6 billets by hand is not easy and a more sensible person would probably use a treadle or power hammer but I have never been accused of being sensible! Once the techniques are figured out the heads form quickly even starting form a 3/4x 2x4 billet.
  5. Thats the point. For what I do and for the amount of blade I can efficiently work I dont need any more than 6" heated at a time.
  6. How big of a footprint are you going to set it up on? I bet that dude will thomp! Congrats!
  7. I have been forging at my buddies shop for years and am at the point with orders I need to build a forge at my house as my buddy is an hour away. His forge is a simple blown forge with cast-o-lite liner about 10" total length and uses bricks for the doors on both ends. It works great for the hawks and axes I build but its a bit inefficent for me and I dont have nat gas at my place either to tap into so I am leaning toward a vertical. I have a coal forge but only use it to weld with so the gasser is going to be used for blades and solid billet hawks. Here is what I have so far: I picked up a blown burner from Ellis( Now High temp) years ago when Ellis still owned it. 2" plumbing reduces to 1" I added a 100cfm fan to it. The burner is setup just as Geoff has so diligently posted over the years with 1/4 shut-offs and a needle valve going into the burner. I know the burner is set to go and I have run it several times and if anything its too much and I may need to swap the 100cfm fan out for the 60cfm sitting in my shop. Currently the forge body is 18 long with a 10" ID. The bottom is 2" of kaowool and another 2" along the walls. From the bottom of the floor to where the burner comes in is 1.5" The burner port is on a tangent. All surfaces are coated in ridgidizer, satanite, ITC-100 and I have held off on adding the bubble alumina depending on whether I go horizontal or vertical. How high above the burner port do I need to go before I make the port for the doors and how fickle is the door shape on a vert? I ask because a 2x4" slot would be all I would ever need for the knives and hawks so would there be a problem with back pressure or too much breath coming out a slot rather than the standard ports I see? how close to the top of the forge does the slot need to be? If I understand it right the higher it is the better the mix and even the heat. Setup as it is right now I have a 5"chamber in the center which is plenty for what i do. I have electric heat treat ovens and wont be using the forge for that, just forging the hawks and blades. thanks shane Here is a hawk I normally make to give you an idea. L6 solid billet.
  8. I just received an email from Mark saying the dvds were sent out last week but if they have not arrived by today he would send another set out priority. fingers crossed!
  9. Does anyone have a number for them? They are not responding to email it seems.
  10. I have waited over a month and have not received the dvds. I received an email saying they were shipped 3 weeks ago but they have not arrived. I have also left emails with the company and have not had any return emails or phone calls to resolve this matter. If someone has a number for them I would gladly call it and findout what is going on.
  11. Thanks Sam. That is the way to drift! I have a ram but need to get a pump and motor along with the controls.
  12. That is sweet and the very thing I was looking for to aid in drifting eyes in my L6 hawks. Have you hot cut the billets before drifting the eye or are you simply drifting with the hot cutter all in one step?
  13. I just ordered the dvd's not having read this last page. Is there still an issue with receiving the dvd?
  14. I second JJ. The cost of the oil from maxim is very small when you consider you will have the correct speed oil that will if you do your part give you higher RC values. Its not just that they are engineered to get a specific steel below the pearlite nose in time needed they also slow the cooling once below 900.
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