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shane wink

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Everything posted by shane wink

  1. Great! I will remove the other layer and open the chamber up to 6.5 and place the 1.50 burner on there with the 60cfm fan to start.
  2. Thanks Alan. The doors go all the way through across from one another and its hard to see that in the pic but do you mean it may need an additional opening as well? Yes the big one melted the nozzle off the first few times I ran it trying in the horizontal to get the gas mixer correct several years ago which is why its just been in the shop lol!
  3. So back on topic, I cut the ports into the forge and with a 1" thick hard firebrick laying in the port for a floor I still have the 4 x 2 port. The internal chamber measures 4.5 in Dia from top to bottom. Is this too small of a chamber? I can take a layer of insulation out making the internal 6" Dia if that would be better. Is the 2" pipe fitting burner with 100 cfm fan on it overkill for a vert this size? As mentioned I also have the 1.50 fitting burner and another fan thats 60 cfm. I ordered some more ridgidizer and satanite since I pulled the kaowool out and started over. i wil
  4. I am just a blade and hawksmith and dont plan to do any ornamental work. I use the coal forge for brooches, bodkins, strikers and such but my interest are mainly blades and hawks. Any issues with cutting a thin wide slot rather than a tall skinny one? Lol I will add moving L6 billets by hand is not easy and a more sensible person would probably use a treadle or power hammer but I have never been accused of being sensible! Once the techniques are figured out the heads form quickly even starting form a 3/4x 2x4 billet.
  5. Thats the point. For what I do and for the amount of blade I can efficiently work I dont need any more than 6" heated at a time.
  6. How big of a footprint are you going to set it up on? I bet that dude will thomp! Congrats!
  7. I have been forging at my buddies shop for years and am at the point with orders I need to build a forge at my house as my buddy is an hour away. His forge is a simple blown forge with cast-o-lite liner about 10" total length and uses bricks for the doors on both ends. It works great for the hawks and axes I build but its a bit inefficent for me and I dont have nat gas at my place either to tap into so I am leaning toward a vertical. I have a coal forge but only use it to weld with so the gasser is going to be used for blades and solid billet hawks. Here is what I have so far: I picke
  8. I just received an email from Mark saying the dvds were sent out last week but if they have not arrived by today he would send another set out priority. fingers crossed!
  9. Does anyone have a number for them? They are not responding to email it seems.
  10. I have waited over a month and have not received the dvds. I received an email saying they were shipped 3 weeks ago but they have not arrived. I have also left emails with the company and have not had any return emails or phone calls to resolve this matter. If someone has a number for them I would gladly call it and findout what is going on.
  11. Thanks Sam. That is the way to drift! I have a ram but need to get a pump and motor along with the controls.
  12. That is sweet and the very thing I was looking for to aid in drifting eyes in my L6 hawks. Have you hot cut the billets before drifting the eye or are you simply drifting with the hot cutter all in one step?
  13. I just ordered the dvd's not having read this last page. Is there still an issue with receiving the dvd?
  14. I second JJ. The cost of the oil from maxim is very small when you consider you will have the correct speed oil that will if you do your part give you higher RC values. Its not just that they are engineered to get a specific steel below the pearlite nose in time needed they also slow the cooling once below 900.
  15. I use the same mandrel but drift the eye rather than wrapping the eye. A little tip incase you do decide to drift one to make a mandrel that will open the eye a bit more or you will mushroom the head of your drift being it is ductile iron. Ask me how quick that happens lol!
  16. I will follow Kevin's sequence with the 1095 and see how it goes. The knives to be quenched are 15" overall 10" bowies blades both full and hidden tang. Two forged and two stock removal
  17. Kevin sent me a sequence on how he treats 1095. From all that I have read that he has posted on since 2005 to present and with numerous pm's this is what he recommended. Normalize @ 1600* soak 5 min minimum remove and cool till color is gone, he mentions doing this in a dark room to be sure that the color is out. Lamaller anneal if you will just be grinding but if you need to drill or mill it then you need to do a spherodized anneal using your oven. I use a digital oven for now so he did.not mention how to do the multiple heats to soften the steel if all you have is a forge. After
  18. Thanks Guys and I will do some more reading. I have a digital PID controlled oven and the proper oil. I know you need to be smooth and quick with the quench to get under the nose of Pearlite formation but that is not an issue for my setup. I walk my RC in most times as well so that will work good too for dealing with blades less than max hardness.
  19. The cloud cutter and the dragon fly come to mind the quickiest but i think the answer has been given. There are two 1095's one has lower manganese and will allow for a more active hamon. I use Parks 50 but Parks is designed to defeat the formation of pearlite within the blade which is needed and makes up the wispy white parts of the hamon. Clay slows the quench down so more pearlite is formed along with martensite during the quench but I did not know what Don may have used to quench in. Austenizing at the lower end of the range will produce a better hamon because less carbon has gone
  20. Yeah I think that is a given but......
  21. I have been thinking of trying some 1095 for a project involving a hamon and have been reading past post from some well known makers and I have read several times that it is mentioned that D Fogg uses 1095 but no one can do what he does with it. So my questions is does anyone know what if anything different Don does to his 1095 or if your reading this Mr Fogg could you elaborate on forging, using and heat treating the steel to get the most from it?
  22. So how did your etch come out? Here are two pics of the same blade from some 1080/15n20 Damascus, 120 layers, I made last week before and after heat treat and etched in Ferric chloride @ 4:1 for 15 minutes.I use a plastic cylinder that will allow the blade to be full immersed standing up. Neutralizing very well before wiping the blade with your hand can also help prevent an uneven look. Once the the acid has been neutralized and removed I seal the steel with a penetrating oil sealant used to protect black oxide.
  23. Thanks for the replys. I am in north La (ouachita parish) Dan is in Shreveport and Ed is in pinville. We are spread out but there are several others in-between. I forget the makers name but he still builds and sells them for about 2800. I did not get any pic using the power hammer buts its a beast and cleans to billet up very well after drawing the bar out. I made my first san-mai blade with a the outside of the billet being some 120 layer slabs with Aldos 1084 as the core. I started 6" long and 1" wide but when finished it was 1.75 wide 12 long 1/4" thick with the core running centered
  24. After several years at the forge I finally had the opportunity to learn to forge weld these last two days. Dan Graves invited Ed Marshal and myself up to his shop to learn and spend two day making billets from 10am-630pm and for both days we did just that and I have a new appreciation for the art. When leaving late lastnight Dan invited me back anytime. This really humbled me in not only is his work impressive but his kindness and willingness to teach and answer questions sets him apart IMO in advancing our craft. Ed brought a wakizashi from the 16th century and a tanto from 1578. He took them
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