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James Spurgeon

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James Spurgeon last won the day on February 18 2018

James Spurgeon had the most liked content!

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About James Spurgeon

  • Rank
    Relax, I'm a Professional!
  • Birthday September 29

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  • Location
    Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Archery, Arms from nearly any period of history or geographic origin.

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  1. Very good advice! Thanks. If I do mention anything I would exclusively present my work restoring antiques. Such as: Given the level of research required to accurately restore such pieces, would that be appropriate/beneficial?
  2. Hey all! I am heading to Switzerland for the next week and one of the stops we have planned is to the Historical Museum in Bern, which I hear has the largest collection of Wootz Damascus swords. I doubt they have the entire collection on display, so I would love to see the back room archive. I have seen posts from several members here that were able to achieve that access, some sounded like they just got lucky, but I'm thinking that many had to plan ahead to make that happen. Any suggestions on how I should approach that, or who I should ask to speak with (specific name or usual tit
  3. Hoping someone has some experience with using Neodymium magnets as clasps for sheaths and/or jewelry. Anyone aware of a source for polymer bonded Neodymium magnets for reasonable prices? Or if I am stuck with nickel plated, how can I prevent the nickel plating from chipping off?!? I have thought about just buying the magnets and re-plating them with additional nickel, but I don't know if that will be effective (at increasing the thickness or making it stronger...) I appreciate any input... James
  4. This is what I love about this place! I like long winded answers, it's where I learn the stuff I didn't realize I should ask about... Besides, you think like me:
  5. Thank you all for the compliments! This is something I "refused" to make a mistake with, so it felt like a very slow process with more time spent researching than actually doing the physical restoration. I have added the final piece of content to the 3rd section above (the chisels I made and the process I followed to stop the blade from binding). Well then, thanks Alan! It's good to know I was at least in the right ballpark. I must say, this is absolutely the cleanest shear steel I have ever seen, if the ricasso had been ground rather than forged to shape,
  6. Oops, forgot to post down here so people get the notifications regarding new content. I also just noticed that I skipped an entire topic in the restoration. Adjusting the scabbard so the blade could seat without getting stuck once again! I will add that as soon as I can get a pictures of the 2 looooonnnnnnng chisels I made for the purpose. James
  7. I added the 3rd section and the first half dozen images for the fourth....The rest of the 4th section will come tomorrow.
  8. The Restoration process part of this thread concluded with the "English Polish" section above. If anyone wants clarification on any part of it, pop in and ask! This section is for 2 things: before/after images, heavily weighted to the "after". And, to start a discussion regarding the date this would have been made. Became: Became Became OK, no more comparisons...just the finished Walking stick: OK. Best starting point I have towards figuring out the age, would be the fact that style of small sword bla
  9. When last we met: A sword had been reborn, but was a little crusty from the passage. Now may be a good time to mention some dimensions: the full stick is just over 36 inches long. The blade is a triangular cross section and hollow ground on all 3 sides for the entire 30 inches of blade! What gets me, though isn't just the length; at the mouth of the scabbard, the stick's diameter is 3/4" and it tapers to just under 1/2" at the cap (and yes, I mean exterior dimensions). Can you imagine drilling (or even burning) a hole 30 inches long through a stick that is only 2x the diameter of the
  10. After pondering the information gleaned; I forged a tiny, spade tipped, pry bar from 1/8" high carbon steel rod stock, pressed out the indentations holding the loose cap to the stick, and inspected the wood covered in an oily looking goop that was actually dry and hard to the touch. [Hide glue] I used a series of drill bits [without the drill, I held and turned them by hand!] to remove the hide glue plug: until I felt a 'tink' and saw the glint of steel: the tip was entirely encased in hide glue, so the next step had to be steam. However, I didn't want to make the w
  11. I haven't been posting much on here recently, mostly because I've been too busy... BUT, this commission was too good not to share: A regular customer found this "Victorian Briarwood walking stick" in an antique shop. (for $40 USD) [It's not actually bent, my phone just refused to accept that fact.] He of course noticed this: The blade, if there was one, was absolutely frozen in the stick/scabbard and it wouldn't even wiggle. It rattled slightly, but the sound was just from the loose cap at the tip. When he asked about it, the antique dealer said "I bought
  12. Looking good. Open the damper a tiny bit and should look like a supersized pencil torch with a reasonably defined blue cone. What size propane tank are you planning to use with the final setup? (The barbecue tank will freeze over after about 30 min of forging.) James
  13. No problem, glad to help. Another reason I like the Venturi is that it works even if you lose power. James
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