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Vincent Labolito

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  1. Thanks Dan! I actually gave it to her yesterday at which point she admired it and then handed it back and requested a sheath to go with it
  2. I finally finished up this one that I first posted about over in the design and critique area: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=25338 Blade is leaf spring, bolster and pins are copper, handle is Purple Heart. Thanks for looking! The fit and finish are not as nice as I hoped it would be, but I learned a LOT of stuff on this one: More hammer control means less grinding and sanding to try and get rid of pits in the blade. Make sure the tang is a consistent thickness, or at least tapers down to the end, to make fitting the guard easier. Don't accidentally wipe cold blue on your finished polished blade, or not tape it off when sanding on the guard and leave a sanding line going perpendicular across the blade. When drilling multiple holes in a handle, make sure they're coming out straight on the other side, and that splinters aren't making your handle material go at weird angles.
  3. getting close to the finish now. quick fitting to make sure everything goes together properly: closeup of the turtle detail on the handle which came out pretty nice....on this side of the handle at least. The less said about the other side the better. closeup of the blade after etching and polishing. The temper line's not exactly what I had in mind, but it's THERE! My first blade with differential hardening. I'm a little pleased with myself
  4. I used a combination of Adobe Illustrator (for the basic outlines and details on the handle decorations) and Adobe Photoshop (for all the textures and lighting) Thanks for the comments!
  5. little more progress today. Got the blade shape where I wanted it in the forge and drew out the tang: Then I rough ground the profile and shaped the tang, then I normalize a couple more times before I started draw filing (no I didn't normalize on the anvil, I just took the picture there): then after draw filing and belt sanding to get all the deepest pitting out:
  6. That was very impressive. No wasted effort at all. Every hammer strike had a purpose and the speed he was completing those at was incredible.
  7. I Agree with Josh, I'm periodically bearded and have never had any problems with it. Eye protection and maybe some hearing protection are the most important things.
  8. finally started forging the blade last night. I didn't have the rendering with me so I stopped before I got the blade quite as wide as I wanted. It's still pretty thick along the spine though so I should be able to give it a bit more width. Right now it's almost exactly as wide as the drawing but I want to go a little larger to give me some grinding/finishing room. Still I'm happy with how close I got it to the drawing from memory.
  9. the panhandle of North Florida here.
  10. I may be wrong, as I’ve only made leather sheaths, but I think you’d have form the kydex really tightly to the blade and not have it cover any of the grip so that the kydex would lock in behind the bottom edge of the blade. If you wanted the kydex to actually go up over the grip, you would probably want a small flair or swell on the blade end of the grip to give the kydex something to lock on to. Hopefully that makes sense.
  11. Those are nice. Someday I gotta figure out how to do that forged integral guard. I love that look.
  12. Hey guys, this is my first post although I've been lurking for a while. The knife below is something I'm working on for my Mom's birthday. I got a couple of knives for Christmas (as did my brother ) and my mom was commenting on how everyone got knives but her, so knowing her birthday was coming up at the end of this month, I had an idea. I want to make a simple, straight-edged sax/utility knife for her to use for whatever she needs or to display with her knick-knacks if she doesn't want to use it. She's collected turtles all her life so I wanted to incorporate that into the knife somehow and came up with the idea of a simple dot pattern to represent a turtle on one side of the handle and then the turtle shell by itself on the other side of the handle. I've got a piece of leaf spring I'm planning to use for the blade, and a piece of dark wood (cherry I think) that I want to use for the handle. The pins for the turtle will just be standard copper wire, and the guard/bolster will be made from a copper bushing fitting that I will cut apart and hammer flat. I plan to texture the upper part of the handle with a burr tool on a Dremel and to texture the top face of the guard (facing the blade) with a ball peen hammer. I will then patinate all of the copper with cold blue and hit it with steel wool to get a little bit of an aged look to the whole piece. I'm planning a flat grind for the blade with (hopefully) a temper line on the edge. No clay tempering or anything just selective heating and edge quenching. Construction will be simple slot in the copper and wood of the handle with the tang notched and held in place with epoxy. This will be my 4th knife that I've finished to completion even though I've got lots of irons in the fire (or on the shelf as it were), and I'm really looking forward to trying to step up my fit and finish for this one. Thanks for looking.
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