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Cody Killgore

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About Cody Killgore

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    North Louisiana
  1. Cody Killgore

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    Yeah, unless the steel is glowing orange when you go to dip it in water, it won't hurt it.
  2. Cody Killgore

    Belt grinder Q's

    Well, luckily, there are a huge number of options nowadays and most of them are really solid. Personally, I'd stay away from the eBay stuff. The vast majority of them are copying the plans from Dan Comeau found here: http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/2-x-72-belt-grinder.html Now this seems like a decent grinder if you were going to build one yourself on a budget. The tubing to make that thing would be pretty darn cheap. Or if you just can't spend more, I'm sure it would work just fine. But it sounds like you may be able to spend a little more so steering more in the direction of a decent grinder in your budget... I'd be looking at the OBM, Pheer, SRG 1.5 (would have to add your own motor/vfd), Ameribrade (non-standard tooling arms). Now my choices in this range are assuming you want 2hp variable speed. A VFD is the one thing I would definitely not be without in choosing a new grinder. For just a little more you can get an old-style KMG or a Reeder (probably the cheapest one that has a built in 90 degree tilt for horizontal grinding). Above that it gets more expensive with Northridge, TW-90, Outlaw, TAG-101. Bader, Burr King. Every single one of those grinders has something on it or some design feature that I'm not crazy about. To me, there really is no "perfect" grinder. It really ends up depending on your style of grinding and what you're looking for. Most of those that I've listed above have additional tooling arms to allow for easily removable work rests. I don't really use a work rest so for me that is insignificant. For someone else though it would likely be essential. I'd suggest studying what they come with and what you think you'll want and go from there. Seems like everyone has a different opinion on steel vs aluminum or gas struts vs springs, etc so I'll not go into that. Generally speaking though, you want it to be as heavy as feasible to reduce vibration unless you're going to be moving it every time you get ready to grind
  3. Cody Killgore

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    Grinding the point and other areas... You're grinding on much less area contacting the belt so all the force is concentrated there which makes it much easier. Personally, I wouldn't try to grind a whole blade thinner on a belt grinder without something like a surface grinder attachment. I'd forge it thinner or use some other means. It's going to generate heat but if it's generating too much, it's likely that your ceramic belt has glazed over. This tends to happen if not applying enough speed/pressure. The ceramic belts really need a lot of speed and pressure to cut properly. Also could just be worn out.
  4. Cody Killgore

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    More pressure. You should be pushing hard into the belt. Edit: trying to reduce thickness across the whole thing would be a pain. Better to forge it to thickness or buy steel that is the thickness you want.
  5. Cody Killgore

    Making a dogs head hammer.

    I've never tried it but it's been explained to me a few times that for the slanted eye, you punch through straight on one side then on the other side you punch straight but positioned slightly forward or backward from the hole on the other side. Then when they meet in the middle, they don't perfectly line up but you can then get the punch in and start working on the slant that's sorta built in... If that makes any sense.
  6. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    Likely that it does not come with the connections to directly hook up your air compressor line.
  7. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    It can be a bit tricky when you start talking about stabilizing and casting. Mostly because if you don't get the stabilizing resin drained off the piece prior to casting then you have a bit of a mess where you have buildup of stabilizing resin on the outside that is not easy to get off. On the other hand, if you cast it before you stabilize, you have to heat up the stabilizing resin for it to cure but the casting resin doesn't like that. Whether or not you need to cast the cut-off really depends on the type of wood though. Yeah, I don't think you'd want to make your own pressure pot. I know back when I got started, a lot of people were buying the harbor freight one. I've also seen/heard of some horror stories about them exploding once you put the pressure on them. I went with a nicer pot but I don't remember what it was. Obviously you will need an air compressor in order to put the pressure on the pieces. This is the harbor freight one that people were picking up. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html It's the c-clamp style clamps holding it down that were breaking IIRC. Mine is a bit beefier in that department.
  8. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    I've not used the slow cure version but that is the stuff. Just be aware that you're going to have some waste. You will need to build molds and try to calculate the best you can as to how much resin you will need. I'll look at the piece of wood and roughly say... I think I need to fill in 40% of this piece then do the volume calculations and convert that to weight of the resin. Whatever you mix up is going to harden fast so any extra you mix up is purely waste.
  9. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    Typically people will use vacuum for stabilizing and pressure for casting. For stabilizing, most home guys use cactus juice. For casting, it's usually one of the clear alumilite resins. I use the alumilite dyes and pearl ex powder pigments.
  10. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    They are talking about casting. You can make money doing that. Especially since you can buy the live edge offcuts from burls and then cast them with some Alumilite and add colors etc. The resin itself is a little pricey but people pay good money for the blanks and you can usually get the wood for close to nothing. By the casting process, you are adding to the value. Also, another thing to keep in mind is if a wood needs to be stabilized... That should be done prior to casting. Casting is typically done in a pressure pot to pop the bubbles that form. I've done quite a bit. Here's a duck call made from a blank I did. Only thing I could find on short notice.
  11. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    You do need to be careful. Not all burls have the eye figure that people are looking for. Some only have some swirly grain. Part of the risk in buying whole burls is that you have no idea what's inside. It could even have a large hole in the middle and you don't know until you cut into it. They could be completely rotted out. Sometimes you can tell by looking at the outside if it has eye figure but not always.
  12. Cody Killgore

    File Guides

    The carbide is tungsten carbide. (Tungsten) Carbide is not a steel. It's extremely hard and isn't really worn down by much unless you're using diamond belts. The hardened D2/A2/etc ones work fine when using a file to cut in shoulders. But the carbide allows you to use it against a belt or disc grinder.
  13. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    That stuff that is under $10/bf is usually straight grained plain boards. Knifemakers are looking for the very high figure and burl woods. People aren't going to pay much for a set of scales or a block that is just plain grained wood. I've never been in your hardwood store so I don't know what all they have but I'm not sure you're really going to make money buying wood from them and cutting it up and selling smaller pieces. If you were going out on your own and hunting for burls locally or had some good connections with people that imported exotic woods/burls then you may have something going. And even then there's more involved with making sure the wood is dry. Oftentimes having to seal it with Anchorseal after processing it down and let it dry for a few years. You can stabilize at home but it's not as good as professionally done. Home stabilization usually just uses a vacuum chamber. Pull a vacuum on the wood submerged in stabilizing resin and then release it and the wood soaks up resin. Some woods work okay with just the vacuum, some not so much. The professionals do cycles of vacuum mixed with extremely high pressures that tend to do a better job with some woods.
  14. Cody Killgore

    EDITa micarta wip and questions

    If it was me, I'd leave them as blocks so the maker has the option of hidden tang blades with a single block or cutting them into scales for a full tang. And you could clean up one side good and take a picture of that. Now they may want pictures of all sides. I'd think someone buying scales or blocks should have the ability to flatten them to what they need but just my thoughts. I have a *lot* of wood including several aussie burls that I haven't cut up yet. I've sold some on ebay to recoup a little money on it but mostly I like to keep it I've been cutting it up on a bandsaw then just sanding it down with the belt grinder.
  15. Cody Killgore

    Buffer Q's

    I was going to pop in and say this exact thing. I got a buffer not long ago and I use it occasionally but for a beginner, there's a lot better places money can go imo. A buffer is not a miracle machine. If you have deep scratches, it is going to make deep scratches stand out more. Have to get a really clean nice finish before going to a buffer and that takes practice and skill (and usually some handwork). Otherwise the buffer just accentuates the rough finish.
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