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Cody Killgore

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About Cody Killgore

  • Birthday 04/07/1989

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    North Louisiana

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  1. From what he's saying... I'm thinking he means. 0.070" and not 0.70". Hopefully anyways
  2. I've recommended this several times at this point. And speaking to andy...At some point, you will have the mental picture in your head ahead of time of exactly what you want and you will know exactly how to do it. You are not there yet. You should have the design drawn ahead of time and get as close as you can to it with the anvil/hammer.
  3. How do you know your blade was fully hardened? Did you test it with a rockwell hardness tester/files/etc? Do you know what your grain looks like? How did you judge your temperature? My point is, just because you heated it up and dipped it in oil and it seems a bit harder doesn't mean that it's a good heat treat. There's a lot going on in that piece of steel in heat treating (and during forging). I would caution you against getting too confident in that area. You may think it went perfectly well and it may be a shattered blade waiting to happen. I'm not sure what steel you were using but the steels around the eutectic point are the easiest. 1075/1084/etc... Basically steels that are pretty close to 0.77ish percent carbon (and lacking higher amounts of other alloying elements). They don't require a soak and can be heated and quenched immediately.
  4. All of those grain structures show massive grain growth. Are you normalizing a few times prior to quenching? Edit: I just realized you said stock removal so the normalizing shouldn't be as big of a deal but I would still normalize a couple times before quenching. You are probably getting it too hot prior to quenching. It's best, if heat treating without measuring instruments to look for decalescense which appears as shadows moving across the blade as the phase change to austenite happens. When the shadows disappear, you know you've phase changed (more accurate than a magnet). I've never used 5160 so I'm not sure about soak times but I wouldn't think it would need much at all. Ideally where those breaks are should be a satin smooth gray without all the "bumps" I would use a pipe in your forge to try and keep your heat more even and to allow you to better see the shadows.
  5. How many knives have you forged? Practice, practice, practice. But don't just go out there with no plan. Make a design ahead of time and really try to produce it. Work on what you're struggling with over and over. When I was getting down forging points without making fish mouths, I forged a point, cut it off, forged another, cut it off, etc (each time attacking it slightly differently) until I found what worked for me and was very comfortable doing it. Focus on improving each time at some aspect. Study... watch videos. Watch closely how people do things. Quitting and moving on to something harder to forge will not make you better at forging knives; neither will buying/building a tool. Only practice will.
  6. If by adjuster, you mean VFD, then yes it helps. I've never had a torque issue with a 3450rpm motor even at very low speeds with a VFD. I've yet to bog down my 2hp motors. Many VFD's allow you to double the speed of a quality motor. So some people buy the 1725rpm motors then double the speed with the VFD. With that combo, you're getting extra torque on the low end but sacrificing torque on the high end. A lot of people do that. But... it never made a whole lot of sense to me. When I'm really pushing hard, it's usually me hogging off steel at high speed. Then as I slow the speed down, I'm making lighter and lighter passes. So, at least for me, I want my torque on the high end. The speed at which the motor drives your belts is also dependent on the size of your drive wheel. My 3450rpm motor grinder has a 4" drive wheel. My 1725rpm motor grinder has a 6" drive wheel. I guess what I'm saying is... it doesn't really matter. Either speed will work but, if you want fast, go with the 3450.
  7. Finally found the time to build a bench for the coote. Runs great! I opted for the step pulleys on this one. Going to be perfect for what I intend to use it for.
  8. While on the subject of sharpening... I'm sure many of you already keep up with Larrin's posts but this was a topic that I was always curious about. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/04/08/does-sharpening-with-a-grinder-ruin-your-edge
  9. I did end up ordering the 10" contact wheel version. Norm shipped it out within 1-2 days via UPS. I'll have a lot more to say once I get it running but first impressions are that it seems really well constructed. With the 10" wheel, the contact wheel needs to overhang the edge of the bench as there's not enough room for the belt to clear the work surface otherwise. The only thing that doesn't seem overbuilt is the tool rest. I don't use tool rests so it doesn't affect me but it looks like it's cut out of 1/8" steel. It does feel sufficient but you could easily replace it with something thicker if that's something that would be needed (it attaches with 4 screws). It does tilt down but haven't measured how much yet. Anyway, can't say much since I haven't run it but... it does look good. Going to make a bench for it in the next couple days and will have more feedback then.
  10. My only concern with taking the cover off was voiding warranty on a brand new motor. The retailer I ordered it through recommended me going ahead and wiring it up and if it does have an issue then, send it back for replacement.
  11. I've got 4 other Leeson motors in the shop and have never heard any noise like this coming from them. This is also the first one that I've gotten that has a little manual thermal protection reset button. That thermal protection thing wouldn't have anything to do with this sound right? Hard to tell if it's a bearing or the fan rubbing on something but this doesn't sound right to me. Just took it out of the box, haven't wired it up or anything. Just wanted to make sure I'm not the only one that thinks this doesn't sound right before I go through the process of getting it replaced. Here's a quick video (with sound) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiT9T8y_pdY
  12. It's usually quartersawn to show the flecks or specks or whatever you want to call it.
  13. Hi, it might help to know where you are located. I have one I have been trying to make a decision what to do with but I would not want to ship it.
  14. https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/17542-so-you-think-you-want-a-fiery-beard/
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