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Cody Killgore

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About Cody Killgore

  • Birthday 04/07/1989

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    North Louisiana

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  1. I don't have much experience with venturi as I run blown burners. That said, the thing that stands out to me is there is very little space for air to enter in between where your orifice is and the bell reducer. You've effectively choked the burner way down where it can't pull in enough air.
  2. I think of laminated as a more broad term. I used to make only laminated blades for a number of years. They could have all probably been considered "san mai" though I also had some layers of nickel in between the core and the outer edges so it's not really 3 layers anymore. I always said laminated because I'm not Japanese and felt like it described my blades more accurately. I'm getting some stainless in next week and am planning to do some CruforgeV core and stainless jacket. Hoping it works out well
  3. The key with forging presses is speed. The longer those dies are in contact with your work, the more heat gets sucked out of your work. Usually those things move too slowly and you can't get anything done because by the time you start squishing, the steel is already cold and won't move. There have been a number of people convert log splitters so I guess that's one potential alternative. Edit: also there's this topic pinned here could be of some help.
  4. Once I moved to a disc grinder for finishing, I shaved a ton of time off my hand sanding. They will make your flats FLAT and get rid of imperfections from the belt grinder. It’s become one of my favorite tools in the shop once I finally started to use it. My least favorite part is grinding. I really enjoy the forging. I have a large number of forged blades laying around waiting to see the grinder... ugh. Eventually I get in a mood to finish some knives and I just start grinding. I’ve got 4 2x72’s, each set up for a different process so no swapping stuff around. Gotta do something to shorten the amount of time I spend around those things. I sure do feel good once the grinding is done and I can get on to cleaning up, hand sanding and guard/handle stuff.
  5. Emerson claims their anvils are 4140. They are about an hour away from me. If I had known they existed before I ordered a diff anvil early on, I would have probably snagged one of theirs. Edit: I guess I should add that if I were buying one to use for bladesmithing, I might not get one due to the weight distribution on them. I'd totally agree with Alan, look for something with the bulk under where you're gonna be hammering. I'm sure they are fine anvils though.
  6. Yep, timgunn is right. Those charts are from the KBAC manual. Went back and it does specify externally cooled motors in that section. Sorry, not sure how I missed that...
  7. Dane, I think you're overthinking it a bit. Either "mode" is really fine for this application, IMO. I'm usually pushing hardest into my grinder when it's running at max speed (when I'm really hogging material). In my mind, this is where you'd want the most torque. If you go with a slower speed motor and double the speed and get into the constant hp "mode", then you're going to be losing torque at the high end. That's opposite to what makes sense to me. I'm not sure you'll find anyone complaining about either setup though. I think you'll be wanting more SFPM than you realize. End up at 50% torque at 120Hz That said, you can get more torque on the lower end with the slower 1725 RPM TEFC motor if that's the way you think you'll grind. I've never found it an issue. Usually when I'm running at slow speeds, I'm also not pushing into the grinder very much. Particularly with non-inverter duty TEFC's? I'm getting to the limit of my knowledge of motors here. Most people say to get a TEFC but often don't specify inverter duty ones. I guess most people aren't too concerned with low-end torque. That or most of them today are inverter-duty already. Edit: Just in case someone was wondering, those graphs came from the KBAC user manual.
  8. Solid choice. That's a good little forge. I bought one pretty early on just to play with. Charles has definitely made some improvements since.
  9. For me, the length is just to keep heating up the whole billet as it is drawn out. I will use a press or rolling mill to work on the entire billet each heat. Once it gets to about 16”, it’s time to cut and stack for me. I start with a billet only 6” long or so but also about 5” tall.
  10. I do it exactly the same as Geoff. Small vertical forge for 95% of forging with damascus/welding being done in a horizontal. I always felt like most people do it backwards. That short 4-5" heat is really nice. It's really not ideal to keep heating up steel you're not going to be hammering on. As far as having to have a handle, yes that is true to an extent. A lot of time we're using a long piece of steel already so you don't need anything. If your vertical forge is small enough, then you can lay your piece on the shelves on either side or across the opening without tongs. If you do need to use tongs, it helps to have good tongs for whatever you're doing. In any case, I don't find it to be much of an issue. Once I've cut the forged blade off the bar, most of the time I leave the tongs on the piece just out of convenience. I can usually get by without tongs at all though (except to snag it out of the forge). I very rarely weld a handle on unless it is a small piece that's not a knife. In fact, the only time I've welded a handle on to a knife is when I was starting with a bearing or other large chunk of steel. Of course, you would do that with a horizontal as well, most likely. I think the only thing that would be better than a horizontal forge for welding (because you really do want a good 16" heated up all at one time for making damascus) is what Ed Caffrey did. He basically took the shell for a horizontal forge and cut it in half (top to bottom if you have it standing up). This way you can weld in extensions, just flat pieces of steel on either side, to essentially create an elongated horizontal forge. This way you have an oval forge that doesn't have quite as large of an interior chamber as some massive 16" round vertical forge but you still get the benefits of a vertical and the length of a horizontal. I'm also a big proponent of blown burners.
  11. Much appreciated. I agree, I think the pin is a little too close to the guard.
  12. I’ve always ordered mine from supergrit https://supergrit.com/products/RedlineRedFlexSheets
  13. Much appreciated. There are certainly things I would change about it in hindsight but, overall, I'm pretty happy.
  14. Been real busy with not much shop time lately. Finally was able to spend some time in the shop today and just been working on finishing up this knife that had been sitting in the shop close to finished for about 6 months. Mostly happy with it. Cruforge V and ringed gidgee handle. Still some residues on the blade
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