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Cody Killgore

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About Cody Killgore

  • Birthday 04/07/1989

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  1. Well, just don’t overdo it on the first welding heat. I’m not sure how I can put it into words. Usually, for me, on the first heat I make sure not to hit too hard. Solid taps. Some people even squeeze it in a vice for the first heat (mostly talking about rectangular Damascus billets here). 2nd heat you hit a bit harder and by the 3rd heat, I’m usually hitting it pretty solidly. Its been a while since I made Damascus by hand. I got a press in 2012 and never looked back.
  2. Typically you want to start with softer blows and gradually hit harder as the billet starts to weld together. Too hard of a hit and the layers can shear apart.
  3. Yeah, while it might work... I don't think it would be near as good as the fiberglass resin. You can usually find it at auto stores.
  4. I can’t speak for leather finishes or glue or any of that. If you leave a blade in a leather sheath for an extended period, it will rust. You seem very focused on the leather stuff but what are you using to protect the blade itself? You should apply an oil (mineral or camelia are good choices) or a carnauba wax works as well if you don’t want it to be oily. 1075 does not have any rust resistant properties so you should be putting something on the blade to protect it from things like sweat and moisture from the sheath, etc.
  5. I’ve always seen them as more of a stock removal thing. Mostly because of the nature of forging a blade. Every knife you forge is different. Not to mention if you forge distal tapers on your blade, which I would think that most forgers do, how do you then go and clamp it into a jig when you have angles everywhere? Like Alan above, I think of jigs as being used in production and repetitious processes which, again, I see as more of a stock removal thing where someone may have a large number of water jet cut blanks done up for them. Using a jig is fine but I do feel like if you start off learning using a jig, you do yourself a disservice by not learning how to use your properly use your grinder from the start. I’ve got a decent size milling machine. I think the setup on a forged blade would probably be not worth it for me. I’ve not tried it though. For me, personally, I’m not crazy of using something that takes my hands out of the process. Someone doing this for a living would probably have a much different view on it. For me, it’s just for fun. Whichever way you enjoy the most.
  6. Buy American is not much of a recommendation. Personally, I buy American where I can and avoid Chinese stuff wherever possible. But I think people on this forum are mature enough to decide for themselves what their finances can support. And I think the OP would be disappointed in a non-hardened chunk of steel vs something hardened. If it was me just getting started I'd be going for either that old world anvil block or the atlas. The atlas is a better anvil as it's much harder and has a hardy hole. Several years ago I purchased a piece of 4140 new from a US steel mill and it was quite expensive. Then I brought it to a local heat treater and paid them another $100 to heat treat it for me. For the price of what I paid for that, I could buy 2 of the atlas's. If you had a local heat treater and could get a chunk of known hardenable steel as a cutoff from somewhere local for cheap, that is a good option. But I'd make sure it was known and hardenable.
  7. A good anvil is a good anvil, period. I'm not sure how helpful it is to devolve the thread into a China bashing thread when we don't even know if these are made in China... Instead, perhaps you could make your own recommendation.
  8. I don't know where they are poured. I know that he was working with a foundry to try and have them meet his specs for a while and had them redo molds and such. I also know that he sent samples out to some well known bladesmiths to test them out. If they are good anvils, they are good anvils regardless of where they are made. And the price is right too. Especially since shipping on them is $18.
  9. http://www.atlasknife.com/product/atlas-anvil/ this is is the one I was talking about. It’s a little more spendy but would be great. On another note, you can ask the oldworldanvils guys to cut that 4x4 block longer (like a foot long). I think they will sell you a longer block for $200 or so.
  10. The guy that makes the atlas mini forges just released a custom anvil. I really don’t need one but really want to buy one. It’s made for bladesmithing. It’s hornless and has a hardy hole! Just something to look at.
  11. From what he's saying... I'm thinking he means. 0.070" and not 0.70". Hopefully anyways
  12. I've recommended this several times at this point. And speaking to andy...At some point, you will have the mental picture in your head ahead of time of exactly what you want and you will know exactly how to do it. You are not there yet. You should have the design drawn ahead of time and get as close as you can to it with the anvil/hammer.
  13. How do you know your blade was fully hardened? Did you test it with a rockwell hardness tester/files/etc? Do you know what your grain looks like? How did you judge your temperature? My point is, just because you heated it up and dipped it in oil and it seems a bit harder doesn't mean that it's a good heat treat. There's a lot going on in that piece of steel in heat treating (and during forging). I would caution you against getting too confident in that area. You may think it went perfectly well and it may be a shattered blade waiting to happen. I'm not sure what steel you were using but the steels around the eutectic point are the easiest. 1075/1084/etc... Basically steels that are pretty close to 0.77ish percent carbon (and lacking higher amounts of other alloying elements). They don't require a soak and can be heated and quenched immediately.
  14. All of those grain structures show massive grain growth. Are you normalizing a few times prior to quenching? Edit: I just realized you said stock removal so the normalizing shouldn't be as big of a deal but I would still normalize a couple times before quenching. You are probably getting it too hot prior to quenching. It's best, if heat treating without measuring instruments to look for decalescense which appears as shadows moving across the blade as the phase change to austenite happens. When the shadows disappear, you know you've phase changed (more accurate than a magnet). I've never used 5160 so I'm not sure about soak times but I wouldn't think it would need much at all. Ideally where those breaks are should be a satin smooth gray without all the "bumps" I would use a pipe in your forge to try and keep your heat more even and to allow you to better see the shadows.
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