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Cody Killgore

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Everything posted by Cody Killgore

  1. I don't have much experience with venturi as I run blown burners. That said, the thing that stands out to me is there is very little space for air to enter in between where your orifice is and the bell reducer. You've effectively choked the burner way down where it can't pull in enough air.
  2. I think of laminated as a more broad term. I used to make only laminated blades for a number of years. They could have all probably been considered "san mai" though I also had some layers of nickel in between the core and the outer edges so it's not really 3 layers anymore. I always said laminated because I'm not Japanese and felt like it described my blades more accurately. I'm getting some stainless in next week and am planning to do some CruforgeV core and stainless jacket. Hoping it works out well
  3. The key with forging presses is speed. The longer those dies are in contact with your work, the more heat gets sucked out of your work. Usually those things move too slowly and you can't get anything done because by the time you start squishing, the steel is already cold and won't move. There have been a number of people convert log splitters so I guess that's one potential alternative. Edit: also there's this topic pinned here could be of some help.
  4. Once I moved to a disc grinder for finishing, I shaved a ton of time off my hand sanding. They will make your flats FLAT and get rid of imperfections from the belt grinder. It’s become one of my favorite tools in the shop once I finally started to use it. My least favorite part is grinding. I really enjoy the forging. I have a large number of forged blades laying around waiting to see the grinder... ugh. Eventually I get in a mood to finish some knives and I just start grinding. I’ve got 4 2x72’s, each set up for a different process so no swapping stuff around. Gotta do something to shorten the amount of time I spend around those things. I sure do feel good once the grinding is done and I can get on to cleaning up, hand sanding and guard/handle stuff.
  5. Emerson claims their anvils are 4140. They are about an hour away from me. If I had known they existed before I ordered a diff anvil early on, I would have probably snagged one of theirs. Edit: I guess I should add that if I were buying one to use for bladesmithing, I might not get one due to the weight distribution on them. I'd totally agree with Alan, look for something with the bulk under where you're gonna be hammering. I'm sure they are fine anvils though.
  6. Yep, timgunn is right. Those charts are from the KBAC manual. Went back and it does specify externally cooled motors in that section. Sorry, not sure how I missed that...
  7. Dane, I think you're overthinking it a bit. Either "mode" is really fine for this application, IMO. I'm usually pushing hardest into my grinder when it's running at max speed (when I'm really hogging material). In my mind, this is where you'd want the most torque. If you go with a slower speed motor and double the speed and get into the constant hp "mode", then you're going to be losing torque at the high end. That's opposite to what makes sense to me. I'm not sure you'll find anyone complaining about either setup though. I think you'll be wanting more SFPM than you realize. End up at 50% torque at 120Hz That said, you can get more torque on the lower end with the slower 1725 RPM TEFC motor if that's the way you think you'll grind. I've never found it an issue. Usually when I'm running at slow speeds, I'm also not pushing into the grinder very much. Particularly with non-inverter duty TEFC's? I'm getting to the limit of my knowledge of motors here. Most people say to get a TEFC but often don't specify inverter duty ones. I guess most people aren't too concerned with low-end torque. That or most of them today are inverter-duty already. Edit: Just in case someone was wondering, those graphs came from the KBAC user manual.
  8. Solid choice. That's a good little forge. I bought one pretty early on just to play with. Charles has definitely made some improvements since.
  9. For me, the length is just to keep heating up the whole billet as it is drawn out. I will use a press or rolling mill to work on the entire billet each heat. Once it gets to about 16”, it’s time to cut and stack for me. I start with a billet only 6” long or so but also about 5” tall.
  10. I do it exactly the same as Geoff. Small vertical forge for 95% of forging with damascus/welding being done in a horizontal. I always felt like most people do it backwards. That short 4-5" heat is really nice. It's really not ideal to keep heating up steel you're not going to be hammering on. As far as having to have a handle, yes that is true to an extent. A lot of time we're using a long piece of steel already so you don't need anything. If your vertical forge is small enough, then you can lay your piece on the shelves on either side or across the opening without tongs. If you do need to use tongs, it helps to have good tongs for whatever you're doing. In any case, I don't find it to be much of an issue. Once I've cut the forged blade off the bar, most of the time I leave the tongs on the piece just out of convenience. I can usually get by without tongs at all though (except to snag it out of the forge). I very rarely weld a handle on unless it is a small piece that's not a knife. In fact, the only time I've welded a handle on to a knife is when I was starting with a bearing or other large chunk of steel. Of course, you would do that with a horizontal as well, most likely. I think the only thing that would be better than a horizontal forge for welding (because you really do want a good 16" heated up all at one time for making damascus) is what Ed Caffrey did. He basically took the shell for a horizontal forge and cut it in half (top to bottom if you have it standing up). This way you can weld in extensions, just flat pieces of steel on either side, to essentially create an elongated horizontal forge. This way you have an oval forge that doesn't have quite as large of an interior chamber as some massive 16" round vertical forge but you still get the benefits of a vertical and the length of a horizontal. I'm also a big proponent of blown burners.
  11. Much appreciated. I agree, I think the pin is a little too close to the guard.
  12. I’ve always ordered mine from supergrit https://supergrit.com/products/RedlineRedFlexSheets
  13. Much appreciated. There are certainly things I would change about it in hindsight but, overall, I'm pretty happy.
  14. Been real busy with not much shop time lately. Finally was able to spend some time in the shop today and just been working on finishing up this knife that had been sitting in the shop close to finished for about 6 months. Mostly happy with it. Cruforge V and ringed gidgee handle. Still some residues on the blade
  15. This is not of my own design as it fairly closely follows the McDonald Rolling Mill Plans. These machines are really not sold commercially so you sorta have to build one if you want one. I've found it to be extremely useful for the way I work. Actually used it today to roll out some thinner stock to make a couple bird and trout knives. I also use it to smooth out distal tapers on my blades.
  16. I got the plans for the Jeremy Schmidt grinder quite a while ago. It’s on the list of things to build but it’s pretty low on the list because I already have too many grinders. If I was going to get a new grinder today though, it would be me building that grinder. I’m a big fan of the design.
  17. I also have my blowers below the gas inlet. I used to have it above but got annoyed with the heat chimney-ing up into the fan after it was shut down so I moved it below. That said, I turn on the fan before I even hook up the gas line. I have a quick disconnect on the tank side of the line (which hooks up to a 500 gallon outside the shop). So it’s easy for me to turn on the fan then run go hook up to the gas. I will also add that I agree with Dan on pretty much everything he said. But, I wouldn’t want to get rid of my needle valve. It gives you a lot of adjustability for your gas when fine tuning atmosphere or heat. However, I also have a 90 degree ball valve directly behind it for a quick gas shutoff if needed. Dan hit the nail on the head though. My first forge I built was an enormous gas hog and, while it was the right size for my Damascus, it was really too big for just forging a hunting knife. I have since swapped my main blade forge to a much smaller forge and only heat up the big one if I’m doing Damascus or something big. I wouldn’t make it any bigger than you think you need for what you plan to forge. But, you can always make more forges
  18. Well, just don’t overdo it on the first welding heat. I’m not sure how I can put it into words. Usually, for me, on the first heat I make sure not to hit too hard. Solid taps. Some people even squeeze it in a vice for the first heat (mostly talking about rectangular Damascus billets here). 2nd heat you hit a bit harder and by the 3rd heat, I’m usually hitting it pretty solidly. Its been a while since I made Damascus by hand. I got a press in 2012 and never looked back.
  19. Typically you want to start with softer blows and gradually hit harder as the billet starts to weld together. Too hard of a hit and the layers can shear apart.
  20. Yeah, while it might work... I don't think it would be near as good as the fiberglass resin. You can usually find it at auto stores.
  21. I can’t speak for leather finishes or glue or any of that. If you leave a blade in a leather sheath for an extended period, it will rust. You seem very focused on the leather stuff but what are you using to protect the blade itself? You should apply an oil (mineral or camelia are good choices) or a carnauba wax works as well if you don’t want it to be oily. 1075 does not have any rust resistant properties so you should be putting something on the blade to protect it from things like sweat and moisture from the sheath, etc.
  22. I’ve always seen them as more of a stock removal thing. Mostly because of the nature of forging a blade. Every knife you forge is different. Not to mention if you forge distal tapers on your blade, which I would think that most forgers do, how do you then go and clamp it into a jig when you have angles everywhere? Like Alan above, I think of jigs as being used in production and repetitious processes which, again, I see as more of a stock removal thing where someone may have a large number of water jet cut blanks done up for them. Using a jig is fine but I do feel like if you start off learning using a jig, you do yourself a disservice by not learning how to use your properly use your grinder from the start. I’ve got a decent size milling machine. I think the setup on a forged blade would probably be not worth it for me. I’ve not tried it though. For me, personally, I’m not crazy of using something that takes my hands out of the process. Someone doing this for a living would probably have a much different view on it. For me, it’s just for fun. Whichever way you enjoy the most.
  23. Buy American is not much of a recommendation. Personally, I buy American where I can and avoid Chinese stuff wherever possible. But I think people on this forum are mature enough to decide for themselves what their finances can support. And I think the OP would be disappointed in a non-hardened chunk of steel vs something hardened. If it was me just getting started I'd be going for either that old world anvil block or the atlas. The atlas is a better anvil as it's much harder and has a hardy hole. Several years ago I purchased a piece of 4140 new from a US steel mill and it was quite expensive. Then I brought it to a local heat treater and paid them another $100 to heat treat it for me. For the price of what I paid for that, I could buy 2 of the atlas's. If you had a local heat treater and could get a chunk of known hardenable steel as a cutoff from somewhere local for cheap, that is a good option. But I'd make sure it was known and hardenable.
  24. A good anvil is a good anvil, period. I'm not sure how helpful it is to devolve the thread into a China bashing thread when we don't even know if these are made in China... Instead, perhaps you could make your own recommendation.
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