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Cody Killgore

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Everything posted by Cody Killgore

  1. I don't have much experience with venturi as I run blown burners. That said, the thing that stands out to me is there is very little space for air to enter in between where your orifice is and the bell reducer. You've effectively choked the burner way down where it can't pull in enough air.
  2. I think of laminated as a more broad term. I used to make only laminated blades for a number of years. They could have all probably been considered "san mai" though I also had some layers of nickel in between the core and the outer edges so it's not really 3 layers anymore. I always said laminated because I'm not Japanese and felt like it described my blades more accurately. I'm getting some stainless in next week and am planning to do some CruforgeV core and stainless jacket. Hoping it works out well
  3. The key with forging presses is speed. The longer those dies are in contact with your work, the more heat gets sucked out of your work. Usually those things move too slowly and you can't get anything done because by the time you start squishing, the steel is already cold and won't move. There have been a number of people convert log splitters so I guess that's one potential alternative. Edit: also there's this topic pinned here could be of some help.
  4. Once I moved to a disc grinder for finishing, I shaved a ton of time off my hand sanding. They will make your flats FLAT and get rid of imperfections from the belt grinder. It’s become one of my favorite tools in the shop once I finally started to use it. My least favorite part is grinding. I really enjoy the forging. I have a large number of forged blades laying around waiting to see the grinder... ugh. Eventually I get in a mood to finish some knives and I just start grinding. I’ve got 4 2x72’s, each set up for a different process so no swapping stuff around. Gotta do
  5. Emerson claims their anvils are 4140. They are about an hour away from me. If I had known they existed before I ordered a diff anvil early on, I would have probably snagged one of theirs. Edit: I guess I should add that if I were buying one to use for bladesmithing, I might not get one due to the weight distribution on them. I'd totally agree with Alan, look for something with the bulk under where you're gonna be hammering. I'm sure they are fine anvils though.
  6. Yep, timgunn is right. Those charts are from the KBAC manual. Went back and it does specify externally cooled motors in that section. Sorry, not sure how I missed that...
  7. Dane, I think you're overthinking it a bit. Either "mode" is really fine for this application, IMO. I'm usually pushing hardest into my grinder when it's running at max speed (when I'm really hogging material). In my mind, this is where you'd want the most torque. If you go with a slower speed motor and double the speed and get into the constant hp "mode", then you're going to be losing torque at the high end. That's opposite to what makes sense to me. I'm not sure you'll find anyone complaining about either setup though. I think you'll be wanting more SFPM than you realize.
  8. Solid choice. That's a good little forge. I bought one pretty early on just to play with. Charles has definitely made some improvements since.
  9. For me, the length is just to keep heating up the whole billet as it is drawn out. I will use a press or rolling mill to work on the entire billet each heat. Once it gets to about 16”, it’s time to cut and stack for me. I start with a billet only 6” long or so but also about 5” tall.
  10. I do it exactly the same as Geoff. Small vertical forge for 95% of forging with damascus/welding being done in a horizontal. I always felt like most people do it backwards. That short 4-5" heat is really nice. It's really not ideal to keep heating up steel you're not going to be hammering on. As far as having to have a handle, yes that is true to an extent. A lot of time we're using a long piece of steel already so you don't need anything. If your vertical forge is small enough, then you can lay your piece on the shelves on either side or across the opening without tongs. If you do
  11. Much appreciated. I agree, I think the pin is a little too close to the guard.
  12. I’ve always ordered mine from supergrit https://supergrit.com/products/RedlineRedFlexSheets
  13. Much appreciated. There are certainly things I would change about it in hindsight but, overall, I'm pretty happy.
  14. Been real busy with not much shop time lately. Finally was able to spend some time in the shop today and just been working on finishing up this knife that had been sitting in the shop close to finished for about 6 months. Mostly happy with it. Cruforge V and ringed gidgee handle. Still some residues on the blade
  15. This is not of my own design as it fairly closely follows the McDonald Rolling Mill Plans. These machines are really not sold commercially so you sorta have to build one if you want one. I've found it to be extremely useful for the way I work. Actually used it today to roll out some thinner stock to make a couple bird and trout knives. I also use it to smooth out distal tapers on my blades.
  16. I got the plans for the Jeremy Schmidt grinder quite a while ago. It’s on the list of things to build but it’s pretty low on the list because I already have too many grinders. If I was going to get a new grinder today though, it would be me building that grinder. I’m a big fan of the design.
  17. I also have my blowers below the gas inlet. I used to have it above but got annoyed with the heat chimney-ing up into the fan after it was shut down so I moved it below. That said, I turn on the fan before I even hook up the gas line. I have a quick disconnect on the tank side of the line (which hooks up to a 500 gallon outside the shop). So it’s easy for me to turn on the fan then run go hook up to the gas. I will also add that I agree with Dan on pretty much everything he said. But, I wouldn’t want to get rid of my needle valve. It gives you a lot of adjustability for your gas wh
  18. Well, just don’t overdo it on the first welding heat. I’m not sure how I can put it into words. Usually, for me, on the first heat I make sure not to hit too hard. Solid taps. Some people even squeeze it in a vice for the first heat (mostly talking about rectangular Damascus billets here). 2nd heat you hit a bit harder and by the 3rd heat, I’m usually hitting it pretty solidly. Its been a while since I made Damascus by hand. I got a press in 2012 and never looked back.
  19. Typically you want to start with softer blows and gradually hit harder as the billet starts to weld together. Too hard of a hit and the layers can shear apart.
  20. Yeah, while it might work... I don't think it would be near as good as the fiberglass resin. You can usually find it at auto stores.
  21. I can’t speak for leather finishes or glue or any of that. If you leave a blade in a leather sheath for an extended period, it will rust. You seem very focused on the leather stuff but what are you using to protect the blade itself? You should apply an oil (mineral or camelia are good choices) or a carnauba wax works as well if you don’t want it to be oily. 1075 does not have any rust resistant properties so you should be putting something on the blade to protect it from things like sweat and moisture from the sheath, etc.
  22. I’ve always seen them as more of a stock removal thing. Mostly because of the nature of forging a blade. Every knife you forge is different. Not to mention if you forge distal tapers on your blade, which I would think that most forgers do, how do you then go and clamp it into a jig when you have angles everywhere? Like Alan above, I think of jigs as being used in production and repetitious processes which, again, I see as more of a stock removal thing where someone may have a large number of water jet cut blanks done up for them. Using a jig is fine but I do feel like if you start of
  23. Buy American is not much of a recommendation. Personally, I buy American where I can and avoid Chinese stuff wherever possible. But I think people on this forum are mature enough to decide for themselves what their finances can support. And I think the OP would be disappointed in a non-hardened chunk of steel vs something hardened. If it was me just getting started I'd be going for either that old world anvil block or the atlas. The atlas is a better anvil as it's much harder and has a hardy hole. Several years ago I purchased a piece of 4140 new from a US steel mill and it was quite expe
  24. A good anvil is a good anvil, period. I'm not sure how helpful it is to devolve the thread into a China bashing thread when we don't even know if these are made in China... Instead, perhaps you could make your own recommendation.
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