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Harry Marinakis

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  1. Every time that I've tried twisting wire with a drill, I end up with a giant spring. When I release tension on the twisted wire, the thing immediately balls up into a tight bird's nest. However, every time I see someone else do it, that bird's nest never happens. I'm not twisting any more tightly than what I see here in these videos, so What am I doing wrong?
  2. Vinagroon, or shoe maker's dye, or atramentum, is iron acetate. it is used more for turning leather black than wood, but can work for both. Place 3 pads of decreased steel wool in a gallon of 5% household vinegar. Let it sit for about 3 weeks with the cap cracked, so that all of the acid is consumed in dissolving the steel and the hydrogen gas escapes. If there is any leftover steel wool, remove it. Soak your item in the vinagroon overnight. The longer you soak it, the blacker it will become. The vinagroon can be used over and over until it looses its potency. Anything colored with vinagroon can rust and turn orange. Nature of the beast, it's iron.
  3. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers. DROP SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted buckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity. This is a mutation of a column written by Peter Egan and published in Road and Track back in 1996. http://www.dinosaursandrobots.com/…/tools-explained-by-do-i… )
  4. The original blades. I made reproductions of both of them.
  5. Sorry, I don't understand the question
  6. I tried to make a copy of a very large bollock dagger that is in someone's private collection. If I recall correctly, the overall length of the original knife is about 16 inches. My repro came out okay but not as close to the original as I had hoped. I could have done a better job on the pommel cap, but I was in a hurry. I left the forge scale on the blade 'cause I thought it looked "military." Blade is O1 tool steel The octagonal grip is made from European briar burl.
  7. I'm still a beginner, but I decided to jump in way over my head and make a bauernwehr. I had never tried making a knife this large, or with such a complicated hilt. I wasn't going to put a chape on it, but I screwed the pooch so badly that I had to hide my mistake. I'd love to try again, but this time make a lot of changes in my process. The blades are O1 tool steel Hilt and nagel are mild steel Grip scales are European Red Deer antler
  8. I did a little file work on the bronze bolster, but otherwise it's pretty simple.
  9. This is a close copy of a small Latvian seax that was meant to hang from a Viking woman's apron brooch. The knife is O1 tool steel. Handle is bone and Scandinavian Birch. Bronze bolster. Overall length is about 6 inches. The Sheath was made from veg-tan leather and 22 gauge sheet brass. Rivets were made from 10 gauge brass wire. The suspension chain was made from 12 gauge brass wire. Patina is Black Magic.
  10. Make a strop Glue thick leather to a board I made two -- one flat, one half-round in 2 diameters
  11. Follow up I finished the blown ribbon burner forge. It runs like a rocket engine at 1 to 2 p.s.i.
  12. Lots of great info here, that will be useful to others as well. Thank you again. I keep my propane tank and regulator away from the forge, so my plan was to mount a needle valve next to the blower rheostat at the control panel at the front of the forge, where I can fine tune gas and air flow while standing in front of the forge. Having never made anything like this before, I wasn't sure that it would work. I will add a 1/4-turn shutoff to the control panel.
  13. Thanks Wayne. Wouldn't a regulator on the propane tank and needle valve downstream from the regulator do just that? Or are you saying that I need a regulator on the propane tank, and another regulator downstream from that?
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