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Harry Marinakis

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  1. Lots of great info here, that will be useful to others as well. Thank you again. I keep my propane tank and regulator away from the forge, so my plan was to mount a needle valve next to the blower rheostat at the control panel at the front of the forge, where I can fine tune gas and air flow while standing in front of the forge. Having never made anything like this before, I wasn't sure that it would work. I will add a 1/4-turn shutoff to the control panel.
  2. Thanks Wayne. Wouldn't a regulator on the propane tank and needle valve downstream from the regulator do just that? Or are you saying that I need a regulator on the propane tank, and another regulator downstream from that?
  3. Dan, I'm not following your last post. 1/4" propane supply tubing -- you mean where the propane connects (3/8" right now), or the tubing from the needle valve to the 2-inch pipe (1/4" right now, but am considering 1/8"). Variable pressure regulator versus needle valve. I have such a reg on the propane tank, that's all you use to regulate flow? I have a quality precision needle valve.
  4. Thanks for all the input. This is not my first forge. I have a 2-burner NC Tool forge that I bought second-hand. It has been very unsatisfactory and too small. It won't get to welding temp and is a gas hog. The interior dimensions of my new forge: Length 14" diameter 5" That's 275 cubic inches. I am planning to leave the plumbing alone, except I will run 1/8" tubing from the needle valve to the 2-inch pipe. I am also making a tiny table-top forge for making tools like punches.
  5. I have made a lot of progress on making my blown ribbon-burner forge, but I have another question. I made the stand and the body of the forge (see 1st photo). There will be 3-inches of ceramic blanket insulation all the way around. The forge is open on both ends (small opening on the far end). There is a stock support bar that telescopes in and out to suit the length of my stock. I have a rough propane plumbing plan (see 2nd photo). The blower is on a rheostat, and can provide up to 135 cfm. The blower will be attached to the open end of the 2-inch pipe. There is a static mixer in the cross piece. The propane screws into the end of the brass pipe. Continuing downstream, there is a pressure gauge and a needle valve. Downstream from the needle valve, the propane flows through a 1/4-inch pipe directly into the 2-inch steel pipe. Both the rheostat and the needle valve will be mounted on a control panel on the right front leg of the stand, so that both are within easy reach when I'm at the front of the forge (see 3rd photo). PROBLEM & QUESTION: I reviewed this forge with an engineer who also built a ribbon burner forge. He says that they are many flaws my design, including: 1. There is too much 2-inch steel pipe between the propane input and the ribbon burner head . If the blower went out, the flame could track back into the pipe and cause an explosion. He said that the propane should insert into the 2-inch steel pipe just a couple of inches away from the ribbon burner head. 2. There should be a welding tip nipple downstream of the needle valve, where the propane inserts into the 2-inch steel pipe, to provide a restricted jet of propane into the steel pipe. Comments, please?
  6. I'm building a blown-air ribbon burner forge with a needle valve for fine flow control of the propane. 1. If I am using a needle valve, do I need a pin-hole orifice downstream from the needle valve to help regulate propane flow? I'm guessing the needle valve alone is sufficient. 2. Where should I put the 0-20 psi pressure gauge? Before the needle valve, or downstream from the needle valve? I'm guessing between the high-pressure propane valve (that's attached to the tank) and the needle valve.
  7. Bevel jigs are awesome. Well worth the effort making a jig. I usually start with a jig to get the basic angles established and symmetrical on both sides, and then finish free-hand.
  8. Nice work Early Iceland was covered with thick Birch forests. A Silver Birch handle would have been more appropriate than Boxwood.
  9. I want to make my own rivets from brass wire. It would simple to make flat-head rivets, but I want to make dome head rivets using 16 gauge wire. Anyone have any experience with this? Is it as simple as putting the wire into block with 1/16" sticking out, and hitting it with a dome-shaped die?
  10. Also..... WEAR A BELT!!!!!! The other day I was forging in cold weather, wearing a one-piece coverall, insulated shop coveralls over that, and then my leather apron. A piece of red-hot scale flew up over the top of my apron, bounced off my adam's apple, and went right down my coveralls. The worst burn was on my neck, but the hot scale burned my chest & stomach all the way down to where it stopped at my belt line. I couldn't get out of my clothes fast enough, I had so many layers. Thankfully I was wearing a belt, or that piece of hot scale would have gone ALL the way down my coveralls.
  11. Thanks George! I bought a large Red Deer antler, so hopefully I can cut off a fairly large scale. I plan to thin the scale to 1/4" before I try soaking-boiling-straightening.
  12. Thanks all, I'm gonna try boiling and flattening. I've done that before with cow horn. Works okay a long as you grind or cut the piece thinned out before you boil.
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