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Jeremy L.

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  1. I don't know if you'd be willing to share that process with me, but I'd love to hear about it. I really like seeing steel with those various finishes on them as well as getting that protective oxide layer on there... Jeremy
  2. Thanks very much, Wes. Going to have to give this a try sometime soon. Jeremy
  3. I hope I'm not doing any hijacking with this question... Wes, how do you find the durability of the process? Is it something that's easily worn off/changes colors where most used or touched? It looks to be a really nice way to get some color to compliment the rest of a project. Have you done any blades with the process or mostly just fittings? ETA Forgot to ask one other thing. Does the process create a dimensional difference? As in, if you had a press fit guard and did this to the blade and guard, would it have added thickness so it won't fit as it had? Thanks in advance for any advice. Jeremy
  4. Duuuuude... I love getting to see these kinds of projects. You are seriously skilled . Jeremy
  5. Holy crap! That's awesome! Just seeing the pictures makes me want to reach through the screen to touch it....ridiculously cool. Very nice pattern and, well, everything . Thanks so much for sharing this. Can't wait to see this finished. Jeremy
  6. Been thinking of this sword waaaay too often and that teaser photo isn't going to tide me over very well.... Really looking forward to more . Jeremy
  7. Thanks, guys. Got some more grinding done on them and started thinking more about profiles. I started drawing on the wrought one and little hatchet. Going to have a little sweep up on the top of the hatchet as well as down and a nice curved edge. The wrought one is making me scratch my head. Not sure if I should bring it straight out on the top with a curved edge and a curve on the bottom? Or a slight curve up to the top edge, too? Pretty happy with the outline as it stands on the spike hawk. Although, there is a bit of tearing (mostly on the interior) of the eye. Hoping that won't be a huge problem? And Alan-just read through the complete WIP you did again. Sure glad I did, I had thought for some reason that you remove wood from the back side of the handle. Had it completely backwards... Great refresher on a bunch of stuff. The hatchet will be a custom handle that I'm planning to make out of a big board of Cocobolo I got cheap at a wood place when on a trip to Portland a year or two ago. The others will be either Hickory, Ash, or curly Maple that I got from Dunlap a while back. Any suggestions are always appreciated. Jeremy
  8. You've been quite the inspiration, Alan. I've already been thinking about some of the stuff you've shown for when I get closer to finished (like how to properly fit the haft to the hawk eye). I really can't thank you and makers like you enough for all the time you take to share how you do things. Jeremy
  9. I was able to go to a friend's shop earlier in the week and he helped walk me through the various steps of forging some tomahawks. He also had a little hatchet that I really liked so I forged one similar to it out. The first here was made out of some cable Damascus I'd made a while back. The cable got thin enough that I welded together three pieces of it into a big blank which I used for a spike hawk: After a little cleanup on the grinder: The next is something I've wanted to do for a long time. It's a wrought iron (wagon wheel rim) wrapped hawk with a piece of high carbon steel forge welded to the back before wrapping (for a hammer pole). Then another piece put in for the bit. It was definitely the hardest of the three to do. The wrought wanted to move faster than everything else and it is certainly the ugliest in the just forged stage... I also really tried paying attention to how many hammer blows I had on each side as I cross peened the blade to keep things even. But...it ended up a bit thinner for the wrought on one side, so when I grind then etch, it won't be even on both sides for where the wrought goes to. Oh, well-I guess worse things have happened. This one will need the most work of the three on profiling. I got to a point where I didn't want to try forcing things around anymore with how the wrought was going all over. The last is a little hatchet that I'm pretty hopeful for. It started out as a 3/4" thick block of mild steel. Drilled a few holes to help with slitting and drifting (more on that shortly...) and a 1 1/2" deep cut in the end to put a bit in later. This was a bigger piece of steel than the others, but for some reason, the cross peening went better than either of the other two and quicker. I'm going to grind in a subtle curve up to the top of the edge and probably shorten the blade just a bit, which will also help get rid of the small area on the edge where the mild started going over the carbon bit. I learned a LOT while doing these and took one more step towards having "man hands" after all that hammering . Slitting and drifting is quite the skill-one which I don't seem to have yet. Even with holes drilled to help keep things straight, I still had difficulties. It was fairly frustrating as I'd see one side of the eye bulging out more than the other... Thankfully, my friend was there to keep giving advice on how best to proceed. Hopefully I can grind things back to even on the eyes, as we made sure the blade was at least centered with the drift. Lots of fun and looking forward to seeing how these finish out. Any advice or suggestions are very appreciated. Jeremy
  10. Ohhhhh, man this is cool . Can't wait to see the next installment.... Jeremy
  11. If you're an old dog, Miles, the tricks you already have seem to be working fairly well . I started out draw filing and made all kinds of bone head moves as I went along... I wouldn't trade that experience for anything, though. Tools are great, but doing things with elbow grease gives a completely different perspective as you go along. I very quickly learned, for example, why hammer control is important and why it's a big time pain to leave big dents in the blade... The next one got a LOT more attention during the hammering phase. If you end up getting a disc running, I'm willing to bet you'll like it. I love taking some wood scales to it and making them good and flat in no time. It's one of those tools I wondered about the uses until I got to use someone's. Now it's a favorite and let's me leave my 2x72 set up for something else rather than going back and forth. Hope you're doing well and look forward to seeing what you put out next, sir . Jeremy
  12. I like having that flare towards the butt of the handle. Seems to help me keep it securely in my grip as I cut. Miles- I'm betting any number of people get good results with their platen. It's always interesting to me how different people, with different belts and processes could use the same equipment and end up with different results. I think it's kind of cool how obvious it can be that various people's processes and equipment mate up perfectly. I think I'm just bad enough at adapting my processes that I need the extra help with another tool . Jeremy
  13. Yup-that was great. Thanks for posting it up. Jeremy
  14. I don't really post much stuff that I work on. Part of that is because I'm amazingly slow at it, the other is that most of the time, I don't think what I have is all that great... But, I know that as I've gone down the road, there have been many things I've picked up from and learned from so many others. So, here are a few pictures of 2 knives that are in progress along with a little information on what I'm doing and how I do it. Much of it could be "wrong", but hopefully some of the reasons "why" are at least sound. These are both 5160, one a skinner/hunter type with just a bit of drop to the point. I wanted to leave plenty of meat for a nice belly for those who prefer that design for skinning. The other is a wharncliff. I've come to appreciate the straight blade edge more as I've received some feedback to the utility of the design for general purposes. These have mostly 100 grit scratches in them at the moment with some stray 60 grit ones in there: It looks like the plunge on the skinner runs right off the top, but it doesn't. It makes the turn just before the spine. Plus, the finished plunges (after heat treat) will be moved back just past the beginning of the finger "choil" and evened up to match as perfectly as I can on both sides. One thing that I learned after using a friend's disc sander is how not flat my flat grinds were... I attached a disc to my KMG grinder after installing a longer drive shaft. So, I now have a variable speed disc that operates on the same motor and VFD as my grinder. I rough in everything on the 2x72, then take it to the disc and learn how "unflat" everything is. Note the difference the light shows: So, I make sure to chase that all the way out so things are as flat as I can get it. This (IMO) is one of the small things that a guy wouldn't otherwise maybe know that can affect the fit and finish (how closely the scales all fit up, etc.). If you don't have a disc, a granite plate, glass, or whatever really flat thing with sand paper on it will help accomplish the same thing. Takes more time, but is worth it. Speaking of granite, here is something I've gone to doing-marking the blades with a height gauge on my granite plate. I mark the edges with one of those giant red markers (Dykem or whatever works, too), then scribe with the height gauge: Lay it flat and scribe, then turn it over and scribe again. If you're wanting to get the exact center, do a little math and set accordingly. I don't worry too much about that, I mainly want to see where the general center line is. This is fairly easy and straightforward on a stock removal bar. It gets a bit more complicated on a forged piece, especially with my forging skills... But it REALLY has helped me do better during the grinding process. I wanted to taper these tangs and it has helped me stay a lot closer to center, with an even taper. And FYI, a shop grade granite plate and dial height gauge don't have to be super expensive and they're really worth it. This photo doesn't show it well, but both tangs are tapered (the skinner has more...). So, I need to finish straightening things up and then I'm off to heat treating them. I just finished up a salt pot and will be using it. Please feel free to ask questions or give input on how to do it better-I'm always up for poaching someone's good ideas . Jeremy
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