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Iron John Logan

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Iron John Logan last won the day on February 18

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About Iron John Logan

  • Birthday 03/14/1986

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  • Website URL
    http://www.ironjohnlogan.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Onondaga, Michigan
  • Interests
    Knives, tools, black powder firearms, history and blacksmithing

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  1. I ran out of junked antique barrels years ago, What I use is the material that most barrel makers make barrels from. DOM Pipe (drawn over mandrel) 1in OD, 1/2in ID in 4130 or similar alloy
  2. Many of the late period ones are very brightly decorated. By the 1860s and the invention of aniline dyes and pigments, color became cheap and readily available for the first time in history. Yes, hard to tell because of black and white early photography - but then, just as now, people like color and showy things if they can have them
  3. This a copy of an original 19th century Dagger style Spontoon tomahawk I finished recently. Forged from rifle barrel and 1084 steel with pierce work, whitesmithed, and an aged patina. Handle is black Walnut with fire checkering, incise carving, paint and brass tacks. Raw hide quirt with wool and glass beads. Handle is 23in, head it 14in
  4. Bat-wing is a typology assigned by modern collectors to a style of broad bladed tomahawks with piercings (the blade looks like a bat's wing) that were popular on the western Great Plains mid to late 19th century. So, it is a style rather then a construction method. As to making a pipe tomahawk from barrel: I start by fullering in the narrow stem area between the pipe and the eye, I then flatten the barrel in front of this stem careful not to weld the two sides together. I then slit the webbing between the two flat sides with a normal straight edged slitter and open it up with an eye drift. Closing the barrel first by flattening gives the iron the strength to stand up while I slit both the top and bottom webs, it also makes the sides of the eye parallel with the eye. I then, depending on style and time period I either forge weld the barrel in front of the eye together to form the bit adding HC edge, or cut the barrel an inch in front of the eye and split this to take a solid steel bit Haha! Well, this is a very special trick horse that plays roles as an Indian war horse. His owner has had an entire period correct kit custom made for him and needed a tomahawk
  5. A tomahawk I just finished for J.B the horse. Made in the Bat-wing style of the Western Great Plains. Hand forged rifle barrel head with diamond shaped eye, whitesmithed, pierce work, and copper dot inlays. Handle of Bodark, brass tacks and raw hide
  6. 18th century Cuttoe or small hunting sword with green grip as popular in the time period. Grip of green dyed curly maple, hand made solid brass hardware with gadrooning and liver of sulfur patina. Thrice folded carbon steel blade with heavy fuller on both sides. Blade 19.5 inches long Over all 24.5 www.irontreeforge.com
  7. Thanks Alan! I wish I had gotten pictures of how I forged the blade, but not being sure if it would work at the time I neglected to do so... Seeing I can only find 1/4 inch thick 1080 I first doubled and forge welded the first 1/3 of the blade so the riccosso was almost 1/2in thick. I forged the blank so that this first 1/3 had a quick distal taper from 1/2 down to about 3/16, then the rest of the blade from 3/16 to 1/8 at the tip. The thick portion I chiseled a V into the back leaving the rest of the shaping for grinding, the thin portion I bent lengthwise in a V swage. Then yes ground everything on a 2in contact wheel. If I could have started with thicker steel to begin with it would have been much easier, but this is the only way I believe I could accomplish the blade shape while keeping the tang centered. Anyone know where one can buy thicker blade steel? say 5/16, 3/8, 1/2 thick rather then only 1/4?
  8. WIP of how I forge welded the hilt. Starting material was 1/2 x 1 inch mild steel. Pierced for tang then sawn and filed to shape. Everything aligned and forge welded Then filed. Pommel forged from 1 inch NPT black pipe
  9. 1770s Smallsword I finished up recently. Forged and heat treated triangular blade with hand etching. Forge welded loop hilt and pineapple pommel hand filed with pure silver accents. Mahogany grip. 30.5 inch hollow triangular blade 37 overall Balance 1.25 from hilt 20.4 oz total weight
  10. Thanks Alan! I have asked that very question as to barred grips - there are is quite a number of the surviving originals that have the wire and bars removed (only wood grip core and ferrules remaining). I do not know if they came off with age, or if they were purposely removed?
  11. Over the last 8 years I have been asked a number of times to make a copy of the Spanish model 1728 Cavalry Sword. These swords were a common sight throughout the Spanish interior of the American southwest throughout the 18th and into the 19th century, and luckily there are a number of surviving originals in public and privet collections around the USA. Measurements for this copy from original in the collection of the Arizona Historical Society sword #7366 Blade length 36-1/2 inches OAL 43 inches weight 2 pounds 2oz PB 5 inches from hilt fully forged and heat treated 1080 blade, iron hilt, with twisted copper with barred grip. To see more of my work please check out www.irontreeforge.com
  12. I found a nice drop piece of 1/2 thick precision ground D2 that I want to turn into a new platen for my KMG. How should I heat treat this? All the other HT info I am finding on D2 is for blades.. I assume to get all the wear resistance the steel has to offer I want to leave this full hard or close to it?
  13. I have a custom knife up for grabs! 8-3/4in overall, with 4-1/2in blade of hand forged 1084 steel, 58Rc. Nickle Silver single branch guard and lanyard hole. Striped Cow horn, Bone spacer, and Mesquite burl handle. Asking $400 - Will include a custom sheath to your specifications, and lanyard or monogram The lady I was making this for loves it, but decided it is just a little too big for her. I could have this finished up and shipped by next week (7/23/18). Please shoot me a message if you are interested!
  14. The plates on the motors and VFD say: 5hp is 23.5amp VFD is 11.5amp 3/4hp (3ph) says max for 440v is 40amp And there are two NON-40amp fuses for the outlet
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