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A. Humphrys

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About A. Humphrys

  • Birthday July 8

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Roanoke, VA
  1. Awesome photos Jesus, I really hope these tuyeres are just what you and Denis are looking for. I had a lot of fun working on the project. One thing Jesus did not mention is his seemingly unending patience. Denis and Jesus handed the waxes over to me just over a year ago. I smoothed up the waxes, gated the tree up and got it ready for coating. Long story short, an equipment problem set us back and then my wife had a baby and I fell off the face of the earth. Peter Kim took up the torch, and fit the project in between his thesis, getting the coatings on, burning out, touch ups, and fin
  2. Scott, I would launch that bodkin any day, and I wouldn't ever think to question if it was your first or not. What diameter stock did you start with and what size shaft does it mate up with? Keep it up! You're making me want to go build one myself!
  3. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17294 When I first started experimenting I used something like this. Though I have to admit the one in the thread is much nicer than what I built. I made do with it for a few months, but as my interest picked up I moved to something a bit larger that runs off a large propane tank, the little guys add up quickly and they freeze up after too long. Adam
  4. Wow...now that's just gorgeous. Don't keep it all to yourself for too long! Can't wait to see the full photos. Is it a Nagamaki?
  5. Oups! Count my words out Caleb. Wrong alloy, wrong quenchant. It's already been posted, but oil is the way to go with leaf springs. Without knowing the chemistry, its hard to peg the exact alloy but most people I've talked with treat it as 5160. 5160 is an oil quencher in the knife world. The Pearlite nose graph is a good one to know. It goes by a couple of names and the best results are found using "triple T graph" "TTT Graph" or "Isothermal Transformation Diagram" this tells you what to expect when you quench at a certain speed. For this case, in order to get past the
  6. Did I read right that this is 1080? If so then you're probably not going to like your results from your oil/wax mixture. You're going to want a very fast oil, a brine, or water quench. You have under one second to get your sword from 1500F to under 1000F in your quench for full martensite transformation. I do not think your mixture will get you there. Best, Adam
  7. I used to be Rob! Wish I still was. I shot for about 12 years before I hurt my right wrist. Don't really remember how I got the injury but the three finger release has a tendency to make the damage worse. I haven't shot in about two years. Before I got hurt I was working on learning to shoot English warbows. I had trained myself up to about 75 at 31" before I had to stop. My wood shop is still full of bow building supplies and tools and more arrow components than I know what to do with. I have two boxes of peacock primaries that I'm sure the moths will get to before I do. Mick
  8. Oh man.. Gotta wake up the zombie thread! Well I have a mixed update. Good news is that the iron anvil is alive and well and currently being used by some summer research students. The steel anvil... well lets say attempt two is in the future. The short pour dictated taking a bit more off the top than we had anticipated, meaning that some unlucky lab help will be getting friendly with a grinder and the horn at some point in the future. As for the steel anvil, half of it worked. The other half ran out into the pit. To make a short story shorter, the mold got abused a bit between mold
  9. John, I'd just about kill for a shop like this of my own. That said I couldn't afford to run it for more than a month. I'm grateful for every chance to work with VT's facilities now that I'm an alum. Bruce, 8620 makes some great base material for other steel alloys. But in the end you might be correct. I don't have my technical books in front of me at the moment, but i doubt that 8620 quenches too hard. I seem to remember it has some cold work potential though.. But don't hold me to any of that. As for induction hardening... I'm going to leave that to the experts.. and the guy
  10. Thanks for the kind words gentlemen. As I said before, Anvil morphology was not my strong suit.. it didn't even occur to me that I had cut the base in too deep until I went back and looked at my drawings after casting the sample. The bright side on that is it helps with the directional solidification... which lets me get away with our riser configuration. I think I can make it work though. If I do this again, it will be much smaller of an arc if at all and yeah, I think I would go well beyond the typical anvil. The picture below is the hot side of the foundry lab. The cold side co
  11. I've been a lurker here for a while, but I figured my latest project might just be worth sharing. I hope you all agree. Just a bit of an introduction. My name is Adam Humphrys, I'm not much of a bladesmith, but I'm hoping to get better. My saving grace is that I'm pretty decent at casting things. I graduated from Virginia Tech this year as a Materials Scientist and Engineer, going on to get a job as a metallurgist for an engineering firm. That said, one of the best parts of my education, about two years of it, was participating in the VT FIRE program. (Foundry Institute for Research and Educa
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