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Steven Campbell

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    jewelry, knife and general metal working
  1. I had no idea about the w series variance either Doug, thank you very much for the info. i have done some hamon work with old files in the past and have been happy with the results but i want to incorporate some hamons and other unique steel features into more of my artistic jewelry work. I will be looking into shallow hardening steels as suggested to get the most dynamic results
  2. This is all really good information. thank you all for your replies. i was asking first to see if anyone else had ever tried with the "welding stock" and was curious about the results. It is very intriguing that a mass produced and distributed steel can have such a wide variance range. i have a old "sword" i ground out from that stuff from way back before i understood anything at all about steel composition. i am going to try for a hamon on that just to see. in the future though i want to have really detailed hamon lines so i will look into the other options mentioned for doing that. thank you
  3. In addition, if you want to reticulate, that material will do it fairly well. i had great success with a 75% CU to 25% sterling which is close to a 20/80% ratio of copper to silver and it reticulated very well while holding a color vastly different from the inverse 80 silver to 20 copper reticulation silver
  4. Hi, sorry if this has been adressed already but i was curious what the lowest carbon steel people have succesfully created a hamon with. i made some stuff early on with welding stock fromhome depot that i was able to harden somewhat. i have heard of success with .5% stock and am not sure if that is what welding stock is or if i just got a freak batch. i wanted to try something larger for an actual hamon(yes i know its edge holding wont be even close to great, but what im after is a complex artsy design not edge holding).
  5. Your very geometric blade design is in stark contrast to the curvalinear shape and line accents of the handle which creates a nice counterpoint to use music terms. the term used in art is juxtaposition butbit is so overused that it becomes annoying very quickly. this collabrative piece blows my first attempts and even many of my current pieces out of the water. you two should be very proud.
  6. That is some gorgeous crystalization!!! Hpw long was your cooling process to allow those to form?
  7. That makes so much more sense now!!! I was starting to think i forgot how to anneal. so when i go to actually harden after the punch and die are made i dont need to quench then right?
  8. Im trying to anneal some 15n20 that i got awhile back to make a punch and die set. im taking it up to a nice cherry red and letting it air cool and cleaning off the oxide layer with vinegar and a light abrasive paper. then when i go to cut it my jewelers saw blades dull less than an inch into the. cut and sometimes snap before they even get that far. am i not getting to a high enough temerature during annealing?, do i need to cool it slower like in some sand is there something in the alloying that is just letting it anneal harder than something like a file or saw blade?
  9. Also @Alan Longmire your ring looks great, you did a wonderful job soldering and cleaning the joints
  10. Wow, so i saw this post about a month late but i just finished a semester long casting class and one of the assignments was a stone cast in place. lab created stones tend to hold up very well, but some students tried with varying effects on natural stones. one student even cast around quartz without it completely shattering however it did have nasty cracks. when researching casting with stones in place, most of the jewelery resources suggested a long slow burnout for your wax mold, and placing the invested mold back in the kiln to slow cool after casting. we took the molds up to 500 over a fou
  11. i would be very interested in a set of pictures.
  12. rio grande and a number of other jewelry supply companies sell the Blue wax your talking about. they also sell the same brand of wax in a green and purple variety each having a different hardness. i like the purple for heavy relief carving, but the blue seems to hold a better polish when sanding before casting. the treatment of how you invest the piece has a lot to do with how smooth the piece is after casting
  13. the celtic handle decorations with the overall japanese form are very intriguing
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