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    S. Baldwin Co across the bay from Mobile, AL
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, reloading, shooting, gunsmithing, hamradio,

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  1. I've made several of the SS clad billets for San Mai blades. I use 416SS, but have heard 410 is better since 410 has less sulfur (.03% vs .15%). I've read the sulfur can make cracking a tad worse, but I've not had a problem using 416SS for the billets I've made. I use 1095 for core with 416SS cladding. I clean (grind clean) each piece of steel used in the billet, then clamp in vise, then seal weld all the way around the billet. Weld handle on, heat in forge to around 2200°F to 2300°F, then lightly hammer to fully set welds. I'll do this 3 or 4 times to be sure before drawing billet out to thickness desired - usually around .150", then surface grind to final thickness usually around .100" for kitchen knives. Good luck and have fun.
  2. KenH

    Meteorite forging

    Hello ya'll - it's been awhile since I first posted this thread looking for info on forge welding Campo Meteorite. Been too hot for me to fool around much on a forge outside. I like inside with the AC these HOT days. I don't handle heat near so well as in my younger years. Ya'll see the photo of the campo meteorite I've got. It seems the general recommendation was for canister damascus. I've not got 5 lb of a very fine (almost talc?) 1084 powder. I'm looking for info about size of canister for this project. I'll take some 1/8" mild steel I've got and bend/weld a canister. The steel is actually .110" thick including the paint. Once I remove the paint I expect closer to .100" thick. How best to do this. Remember, the only "powder hammer" I've got is the "Arm 'n Hammer" type. I'm thinking perhaps a canister about 1" deep by 2" wide and perhaps 6" long. What percent 1084 powder vs the Campo bits would be best? 25% Campo? I'm thinking perhaps grind away paint for a clean mild steel interior rather than coating with whiteout, then plan to grind mild steel off? Does anything need to be done to the Campo Meteorite bits as far as cleaning? They're clean now, almost like they were polished a bit? Maybe wash in Acetone? Looking for some guidance on this project - I KNOW I know nothing about meteorite forge welding. Thanks for any suggestions and guidance. Ken H>
  3. That is so impressive! Here I am happy to do a simple low layer count Damascus. I still learn lots from reading of the master's work.
  4. Hello ya'll. I've not posted much here, but have been reading a good bit. Since I've asked a couple of questions and received GREAT helpful answers I decided to show my attempt at Damascus. This is my very first Damascus attempt, and is nowhere near what you experts do. I stand in awe of the patterns ya'll do. I have done a few San Mai billets and blades. I forged up the Damascus billet, and finished the knife for the wife. This is a low layer count, 11 layers of 1095 and 15N20 with a .003" thick layer of pure nickel between each layer of carbon. I drew it out flat and I think I lost a couple of layers due to scale build up. I can't see as many layers as I put in it. Final thickness on blade is .100" at bolster with a distal taper to point. This is my very first Wa type handle - just wanted to try one. Wood is stabilized curly maple with African Blackwood. The wife wanted brass bolster and spacer, so that's what she got. I drilled a 5/16" hole thru the Blackwood, brass spacer, and into maple and epoxied a wooden dowel to provide some strength. With the tang going thru I suspect the wooden dowel isn't needed. Remember, this is a first attempt! Here is one of the San Mai blades I did for a SlipJoint folder. At this point the folder has really nice action and solid "Walk 'n Talk" without being a "nail breaker" to open. Posting photo to show the San Mai, and blade still needs some cleaning up before final assembly. Also got to finish the liners and mammoth ivory scales.
  5. KenH

    Meteorite forging

    Thank you for the nice words BillyO. When compared to the likes of many folks on this and other boards I really do consider myself a "rank amature" {g}
  6. KenH

    Meteorite forging

    Thanks for the comment Zeb, and knowing me and the slow cautious pace I usually set trying a canister with power only, and perhaps a few pieces of other steel would be something I'd do. Looking for comments if the forging I mentioned is even possible, and if so are there things I should do. Oh, I should mention my forging is the "baking soda" type - "Arm 'n Hammer" {g}. One thing I would see is the need to use the "canoe" method of canister as as to be able to better control where the meteorite would be in the powder mix.
  7. I'll 2nd on the use of mild steel round bar - I've been welding that to a billet for San Mai, 45° the round bar to have close to 100% penetration and I've not had any problems with rod breaking off. I stick weld only, and have used 6013, 7018, etc. Mostly whatever rod I've got handy.
  8. KenH

    Meteorite forging

    Hello ya'll, as you can see I'm VERY new with this site. Been reading over the last couple of days and impressed with the amount of knowledge and willingness to share displayed on this site. Gary Mulkey did a wonderful job with his Meteorite Knife Completed thread and got me interested all over again on forging a meteorite. I've done a small amount of forging, made a few San Mai billets with 416 cladding, a couple of small Damascus billets. I've never done a canister Damascus. I ordered a bit of Campo meteorite from ebay (hopefully a good vendor). Not sure if I can post a link to the ebay listing or not, so I'll just post a photo of the item ordered: Would it work to break that up into smaller bits, then using iron powder (1095?) for canister, mix the Campo meteorite in, then forge it all together? Would the meteorite show up at all in an etch? I'm thinking perhaps to place the meteorite up toward the top with the bottom 1/4 of canister only powder to have a high carbon for the cutting edge. Is there any hope for something like that to work at all? Thanks for any guidance or suggestions. Ken H>
  9. @Doug: That has a beautiful curve. Did you forge the curve in? OR - is the curve a result of quenching with clay? Beautiful work.
  10. I'm VERY late to the party, but WOW!!!! I'm more than impressed. Yesterday I got interested in some of that Campo meteorite and started looking for some. Now I understand more how to weld it, but do have more questions which I will start in a new thread. THANK YOU for this WIP> Ken H>
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