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    S. Baldwin Co across the bay from Mobile, AL
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, reloading, shooting, gunsmithing, hamradio,

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  1. Andrew W: Sorry I gave Jerrod credit for the thread, not sure at all why I didn't get it right. Andrew, I'm more than impressed with your work, please continue the thread. Jerrod, sorry about that, and I'm glad to corrected me so I can correct it. Ken H><
  2. Hey it's been several months now since the last update. We're all waiting anxiously for the next post. This is GOOD - I've sent links to several friends to follow along. Jerrod, THANK YOU so much for starting this thread - it's tagged for me to follow. Ken H>
  3. Alan, each time I read one of your WIPs, I'm even more impressed. WoW - what a job you did on this project. We all really appreciate not only your skills, but the time 'n effort you take to share with us mere mortals so we can learn. WOW - this is impressive work, the tomahawk but the WIP also. Ken H>
  4. What about this blower for $85? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NQDNRK/ I've been using one for my forge and it works good.
  5. I'll add an interested note also to bring thread to current date. I sure do hope everything is ok with the OP and it's only minor things that are the hold up. He did mention he might start a new thread for the completion?
  6. I'm waiting for more - I LOVE daggers. They are MUCH harder to grind and get right than they look to the casual viewer. I admire anybody who can comfortably grind a dagger properly. Good job, on both the grind and the billet. Looking forward to the etch.
  7. Now that's a 50¢ phrase for "the wood burns" thus removing the oxygen. This is a GREAT forum for learning, not sure why I've not been present more often. Getting stuck on knifemaking and reloading forums I guess. Thanks to all for such a GREAT forum. Ken H>
  8. Now that's thinking - the smoke from the wood removes oxygen from tube which prevents scale from forming - is that correct? I've used boric acid (roach powder) as anti-scale on blades.
  9. Be sure to talk with them before ordering. Their 12 ton press only has a 3" cylinder which gives 9 tons, NOT the 12 ton advertised. As mentioned before I replaced the 3" cylinder that came on my Coal Iron press with a 4" cylinder that works good.
  10. If you're considering a log splitter be sure to check diameter of cylinder because you'll need at least 3.5" for a 12 ton at 2500 psi. Also check the GPM of the pump. Most log splitters have a low GPM giving a slow ram travel. Most of the log splitters I've checked had very little that could be used with a decent forging press. By the time the log splitter got large enough to have useful parts, the cost was close to what it cost to build a good press.
  11. Here's the link for ram speed, but considering the type of work ya'll do I suspect it's not needed to calculate ram speed. Depending on the GPM of your pump I'm sure the ram speed is just fine. https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_speed.htm You're right, the idea of how much stretch is in the column with pressure is very simplified but I suspect it's in line with rest of stresses. The Coal Iron press uses 2X2X1/4" angle for the columns, 2 on each side for a total of 4 sq in of materiel. I'm considering building a new frame using 3X3X1/4" angle (what I have on
  12. You did a good job on that press. On this side of the pond I understand that's called an "H" frame. As you said, perhaps the strongest design around for a press. Is that 1"X3" solid steel columns on the side? WOW, you're right, way overbuilt for 12 tons. Is that a 4" cylinder? Looks like a long stroke? I've recently got a Coal Iron press, the one they call a "12 ton", but is actually only 9 ton. The one I got was only 8 ton due to mis-adjusted pressure on control valve. My understanding from email correspondence with Coal Iron they designed the "12 ton" with a 3.5" cylinde
  13. That's a neat idea using concrete nails for scribes. I expect concrete nails are really hard and will hold the point nicely. Thanks for the idea. Ken H>
  14. Thank you for emailing the link to this tread to me. You'e done a GREAT job with that hammer. I have enjoyed following your build, and can't think of anything you've not covered for having a good setup there. Lots of good Damascus will be made using that hammer. Ken H>
  15. I've made several of the SS clad billets for San Mai blades. I use 416SS, but have heard 410 is better since 410 has less sulfur (.03% vs .15%). I've read the sulfur can make cracking a tad worse, but I've not had a problem using 416SS for the billets I've made. I use 1095 for core with 416SS cladding. I clean (grind clean) each piece of steel used in the billet, then clamp in vise, then seal weld all the way around the billet. Weld handle on, heat in forge to around 2200°F to 2300°F, then lightly hammer to fully set welds. I'll do this 3 or 4 times to be sure before drawing billet out
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