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J.Arthur Loose

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Everything posted by J.Arthur Loose

  1. Yup, I do my messy damascus work with flux in this forge. Sides eventually get eaten, but can be repaired with furnace mortar. The bottom has space for a big ol’ flux clinker. Also, you’re not blasting your blade directly, and the forced air burner allows very fine atmospheric control from oxidizing to neutral & reducing. Finally, for blades, you can work in specific sections and reduce overall scale. I do my heat treating in my drum forge (same burner,) or in the salt tanks. It’s not very good for heat treating over about 7-8”.
  2. Dunno. It’s definitely very specialized, as it’s really only good for billets & blades… but it’s really good for that. The burner is the best part though, super efficient, great atmosphere control, cheap and easy to make, and heats my 18” drum easily & evenly.
  3. Worth keeping for the story alone!
  4. I learned how to make this forge right here, on this forum, 20 years ago. Still use it for carbon damascus & blades. Just switch the same burner over to the drum forge for big pieces & stainless billets. Thanks again, Don.
  5. Allllll righty then. 38” overall, 33” blade, 2 lbs, 7oz, 24K gilt bronze & garnet.
  6. It’s almost impossible to photograph this thing in 24K gold. Yes, it really glows.
  7. Final photo booth pics incoming, but here’s the blade & a quick sheath. We may revisit the sheath later, but it has a date with a big war coming up.
  8. All riveted up. Time for a quick sheath…
  9. Got Sam back from the stone setter, who did a great job. Off to get gold plated tomorrow.
  10. Had a minor casting blowout pushing the weight and volume limits of my centrifugal caster, but all is well. Final touches and assembly tomorrow.
  11. I would forge the blade and tang very differently now, so it was a bit of a puzzle. Ahistoriffic!
  12. I know a cute little tiger that’s getting some toe beans.
  13. Perhaps more bricks stacked horizontally for better heat retention? Lower blast pressure? Hard to say but I’ve never had that happen and those are two differences I notice right away. Here’s my usual set up and a freshly consolidated puck.
  14. It will. LOL. Prob do a small steel peen block. Will most likely have to clean and plate near eyes. Concern is that the peening might crack the stones otherwise…
  15. Soldered the shield in place, doing final details & polishing before shipping to the gold plater, hopefully tomorrow. When it returns I peen it together, then hand it off to the stone setter. Will have to pen plate any mistakes along the way, so there’s a margin of error, but we’re playing the least-amount-of-potential-problems chess game here.
  16. I’ve used these for years. You’re not holding super hot stuff for a long time, but a few hundred degrees, no problem. About $12 a pair and they last about a month of hard forging. They breathe, and don’t hold heat. Flux will go through if you’re not careful though. Grainger kevlar gloves.
  17. Speaking of lightening the casting, I’ll be grinding out the hollow space somewhat to dial in the balance point to that of the original. It’s very close, but at this point, I want to nail it.
  18. To lighten the casting, mostly. And also because it would be hard to have the investment run the full length of the handle, unattached, and not break during casting. Most castings in similar form would have drilled holes or similar support that would have to be plugged in the final metal form. The original had the same shield, somewhat loosely attached. I suspect it was for the same reasons. I’ll solder mine on before final finishing & gold plating.
  19. Got the falcata scales roughed out to fit the tang, and added a habaki or something to better the gesture. Not historical, but I get to have fun with this blade I forged nearly 20 years ago. LOL.
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