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Scott Lintow

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  1. I second Doug about the possibility of the cut of leather. Next time you may want to use a smaller but same shape of scrap wood to form the handle part around. When I do holsters I make the pattern, cut the leather, then sew it together then soak it and put the gun in it to stretch the leather to shape then remove just before it dries completely to allow a little shrink. You may be able to put the stitches closer to the handle to tighten it up. good luck.
  2. Hey John. I have done a lot of wet forming with leather. So here is the way I do it. You can soak leather completely and then let it dry. If the sheath covers a finger guard or something to grab then you can let it dry with the knife in it. if on the other hand the sheath only covers the blade, then after it takes a good shape pull the blade and put a book on it. Also the more times you wet and dry the harder the leather gets so less friction. If you post a pic of it I might be able to give some better help. Hope that helps.
  3. Hello. I worked in a leather working supply company for a long time. In doing so got to talk to a lot of leather guys. They all seem to have their own view on shape and thickness. One of them is a world class craftsmen. He told me that he tell new guys to buy some cheap 6in putty knives of different thickness and flexibility. then cut some shapes and experiment. then find a custom maker to make it. Just a thought. If you can find a local saddle maker to talk with you might get a better idea what they are after. popscustomleather.com this is the gentleman who gave me such advise. I cant seem to make the link work but he comes up if you do a search for him his name is Bruce Donaldson.
  4. Wow. Your work is proof that old world skill and creativity are still out there. Amazing.
  5. Hello all. I found this and thought it was worth sharing List of Shop Tools DRILL PRESS : A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL : Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh sh—’ ELECTRIC HAND DRILL : Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW : A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS : Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER : An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW : One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH : Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW : A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW : A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST : A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER : Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER : A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR : A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER : A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER : Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE : Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMN-IT TOOL : Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘DAMN-IT’ at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need. .
  6. Wow I am sorry. the question was for you KT. I am taking meds for smashed foot. Friends should not let friends type on pain killers, sorry.
  7. Very nice Rob. I have done something similar to a walking stick a few years back. Question on the sheath did you make the rivets. I buy post and washer from a company, but I have never really liked the the finished look of them. Having done years of leather work I can appreciate the craftsmanship in them.
  8. Thank you all for the great response. The wisdom of those that have been there is the best kind. I do this as a hobby and try to sell some knives to help pay for something I love to do. I have been fortunate to sell four knives since I started 1 1/2 years ago. I sold 3 of them to people that saw me carrying them and asked to buy them. So I am beginning to understand how building a name works. I was looking for a way to hurry the process along, but I see the way to go a lot clearer now. I would like to say that this forum rocks. I really enjoy listening to all the info and stories. Thanks again.
  9. Hello fellow smiths. Today I have come across a question I can not answer. A little back story. I have been looking at different ways to sell my works. I went to look on E bay and what I found puzzles me. So here is the question. Is the knife buying public buying cheap knives because the knives are inexpensive..or are they to cheap to buy quality knives? A side note where do most of your sales come from?
  10. Thank you gentlemen. I turned down the gas pressure and that help. I also made a set of box jaw tongs the almost encompasses the whole blade. So I can limit the exposure of the blade. And yes they get hot, so I am with you guys in that it may well be time to look into a second smaller forge. Thanks again for all the help.
  11. Cool stuff Thomas Thank you for the last picture( I had no idea what the last one was used for).
  12. Thank you both and you both may have the answers I need. Yes i can turn down the pressure I have it set to 8 psi now . so I will turn it down and see what happens. Thank you Dave. And thank you Freya, no I dont have any coating on the kaowool so I will be fixing that as well.
  13. Hello all. I have a problem with working small blades in my forge. So here goes, My forge is a propane fueled, 10 in pipe with 2 layers of kaowool and fire brick in the bottom. there are fire brick in the front and back. It gets plenty hot( not to welding temp not sure why). So big blades and axes no problem. But when I tried to forge a friction folder blade the whole piece gets to bright orange. This makes it very difficult to work the handle with out the blade shape changing and visa-verse. Any tips or tricks out there? Thanks for any help.
  14. Is it sharp enough yet?

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