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Gene Bland

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About Gene Bland

  • Birthday 09/16/1949

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  • Location
    Oakland Oregon
  • Interests
    50 BMG rifle Varmite rifles Blacksmith art, neat knives
  1. I liked your video so much I went ahead and made my own knife following you demo. I really like the upset guard. Thanks for the effort.
  2. Harbor Freight. Go talk to them. Good luck
  3. If you use wood you are going to get smoke. Hard wood, soft wood it makes no difference. Some wood smoke is toxic. It seems like the oily woods that are toxic when grinding will produce toxic smoke. I have used ceder, fir, pine, oak, madrone, they all are irritating. When I know I will be burning I set up a fan to blow the smoke away from me. I use oak 4x6 in a frame and a hardy stem for straightening twists and knife work, fir rounds for dishing and forming. Do not use pressure treated wood for hot work. It has arsenic in it and you don't want to breath that.
  4. Saw the video and had to try it. Worked out pretty well. I will be doing more in the future.
  5. Orien is right. The wood need to be dry or it will shrink away from the ferrule. I like to size the wood slightly larger than the ID of the ferrule and then tap it on. Use brass instead of copper as the copper WILL deform if driven on. Use steel tubing instead of pipe. It will finish better and is thinner. Good luck and have fun. Practice on a few pieces before attempting the finish product.
  6. I am not even going to show mine. Yours is great.
  7. One thing about the strength of threads. For max strength the length of the thread needs to be equal to or longer than the diameter of the thread. IE 1/4 20 thread needs to be a minimum 1/4 inch long. I always go two threads longer than the diameter. This way you can tighten the pommel pretty good without stripping the thread. If the pommel is brass, pewter, silver or other soft material bigger and deeper is better. Good luck and have fun.
  8. You might check out the Whitlox wood burning forge. I have welded cable in one. Works good with wood or charcoal.
  9. Thank everyone for the information. I now know lots more than I did before. So I will be making my own version inspired by broken back seax, trying to hold to historical accrecery as to the hidden tang and non metalic grip parts. I will be using iron wood and antler or bone. I have some nice maple and some cypress that was submerged in the Naccadocous river for about 100 years. I know I did not spell that correctly, but you get the idea. [how do you get spell check to work?] More input is welcome.
  10. Too late. I am entranced by the multi stack longish 10 to 12 in clip point. While the other styles are deadly looking, this type really appeals to me. I am going to try to study all types but I am going to forge some plain blades and then do some multi stack based on what has been exhibeted here.
  11. On this forum I have seen at least 10 examples of what are being called a seax. Long ones, short ones, some in between. Long clip points. bayonet points, slack grinds, flat grinds, round grips, square grips, octagon grips. They all look neat, some are really well done with lots of PW and composit grips and carving. But what is really considered a seax? Are my ideas a misconseption? Help out a poor country boy.
  12. So, what you are saying is, If I make a seax that has a four billit stack similar to someone elses that I am guilty of copy right infringment. What crap. There is very little that we as bladesmiths or blacksmiths do that has not been done before. Why else do we have demenstrations that show how to do something if not to use it.
  13. Gene Bland

    Tribal spear

    I sure would like to see how this is done. You have a good start, but it looks like the easy part is done.
  14. Man, that is outragous. You are insane. I have got to try this.
  15. Check out Brian Braziel on Face book. He is a great hammer maker.
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