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Bruno last won the day on August 23 2018

Bruno had the most liked content!

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    Hermit Cliffs, Arizona

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  1. Good info guys Much to experiment with...
  2. I definitely got some experimenting to do... I've tried clay'ing my last 3 cleavers, but didn't get any sort of pattern. The steel was fairly thin though. Also, was made from a different set of leaf spring. I think I still have the other 3 leafs from that particular trailer, been saving them. Gonna try the explosion test. Am I the only weird Metal Worker that keeps track of where he got his scrap from ?
  3. No problem Colonel, I am just trying to understand what's going to see if I can reproduce it effectively. How much do you grind away before you lose the pattern, and on what kind of steel do you see this most with ? It's not hamon. That seem's clear. Decarbomon ?
  4. LoL, ok, I get it. and just cuz...
  5. I'm definitely going to try it next time I can get to the forge. If it turn's out to be 1095'ish, I might try my hands at another water quench with the steel. I tried a while ago with a file blade, got some activity, but also got a crack. Very small crack, but still there. I finished the knife as a little herb chopper. Thanks Joël, Precision decarb ? Is that what I got ? So am I grinding too thin before clay and heat treat? So the decarb is occuring during the forge heat before the quench ? I don't leave it in long, tend to hold the steel the whole time to prevent overheating. Not doubting you, just trying to understand what's going on. I'm no metallurgist. I thought that the whole process of hamon involved shallow hardening steals. If you grind too far, don't you lose hamon in a traditional (105x, 106x) steel ? So the decarb would have to happen right as I am heating for the quench? I do normalize several times before HT. What of the other portion's of the blade closer to the handle, they were completely covered in clay, yet I still get decarb? Maybe my understanding is wrong or flawed, but I thought decarb tended to happen due to overheating and contact with atmosphere (air). Is my understanding correct? The clay should have prevented air, but then again, if I polished too high, the clay falls off sometimes, or at least separates I guess. Always trying to get better at this. Who is Allen Sherman ?
  6. Dang. I want one. Great Work!
  7. Thanks Joshua, The steel being 10xx is probably the most likely explanation for the results I got. I imagine you know as well as I do how old stuff is out in here in the desert. I tended to grab every leaf I could when I had easy access to them. Funny you say that. I had the same vision. And No, It wasn't a typo. My last couch was made of some nice thin whitish leather and a good part of it wasn't animal destroyed, so I took it outside with a sharp knife. Thinking about making a file holder/roll out of the big piece. Edit: Hey, here's a thought, If I forged out some of this steel to 1/8" x 1" x whatever, and polished it up to eliminate cracking problems, and I heated and quenched in water or brine. If it explodes, then it probably a chromium/alloy steel? Right ? Otherwise if it survives, after several attempts, then chances are it's a simpler steel. Am I correct in that line of thinking ? Not a definitive test of course, but might yield a guesstimate...
  8. Thanks Charles, specs are: Leaf Spring Steel. Unknown. Blade is around 7.75" inches tip to bottom of ricasso. Overall length is just under 13" inches. 1 3/8" at the widest part of blade, where the clip begins. 1 1/4" at the base. Thickness is about 1/8". It's a really light blade considering it's size. I don't have a scale. Thanks Alan, I've had this happen before a few times on some other blades, but this is the first time I got a clean pattern on both sides of the blade. Overheating ? I don't know? When I quench, I usually do it a few minutes after I turn on my forge, just before full operating temp. Makes it easier for me to not get the steel too hot and is easier for me to see the color of the steel before the bright forge walls drown out the color. If I recall correctly, I quenched shortly after non-magnetic. Tested with a magnet. Hard to see decalescence with the clay. Quench in warmed canola. Triple Temper. Maybe I got one of those rare leaf springs that are a 10xx makeup ? Or maybe I forged it for so long that I beat all the chromium out of the steel, yet somehow amazingly left the carbon alone? Tactical Hammer Work. Lol. Don't know.
  9. Really beautiful sword. Masterful, even if you say it's not right.
  10. *Warning! Gratuitous Pics Ahead* Hey Everybody, Here are some pics of my latest work. Felt like forging, so I grabbed a piece of leaf spring and came up with this: Here it is as Forged. Those little nubs weren't so easy to forge with my setup, then I ended up grinding away a lot. First Clean Up and Profile: SATANITE!!! I never expect to see this with spring steel. And this stuff is hard to move, like it has chromium or something in it. Cracks easy if it's not hot enough. But this one survived the quench straight and true. No way for me to know what steel this is. Old leaf springs though... After getting done on the belt grinder... up to 800 grit here I think. Here is the left over spring I use to forge this. Almost 1/2" thick. Probably off an old Mobile Home Trailer. What's going on here ?? I had no luck with polishing and etching with vinegar and lemon to try and bring the activity out. So I went to a ferric dip. I only have up to 2000 grit paper, so I went to that, then etched. I never liked mirror finishes anyway, 1 fingerprint and it's over... The clip has a nice edge, but is too thick to really get sharp. I didn't want to make it too thin anyway. Gratuitous pics to follow. I forged this knife with a wrapped handle in mind, because I don't have tons of time to play with this stuff. So I used some Elk Hide, and gutted black and grey paracord, tightly wrapped Katana style. Then hot waxed. Feels solid to me. I kept the forged pommel rough. Fun. Finally, Sheath made of elk and couch hide and hot waxed. Blade is around 7.75" inches tip to bottom of ricasso. Overall length is just under 13" inches. Tell me what ya'll think.
  11. I built one of those, and personally... It's overrated. Does it work? Sure. Is it really faster that just hand sanding? Well, mine is taken apart under my work table. Mine is poorly built over a weekend using scavenged parts from the shop. If that tells you anything. I think if you do everything "right", then hand sanding shouldn't take all that much time anyway, unless you have lot's of nooks and crevasses. I like to use 400, 600, and 800 grit black oxide sanding belts, and I've had finishes off the belt come out damn near polished (maybe dull belts?), but I know sometimes when I take the paper to it after the belts It feels like I'm going backwards sometimes. As in it looked better before I touched it with the paper. Your mileage may vary. As far as the tuning fork goes, I'll leave one next to my bottle of redheaded virgin blood and pixie dust, you know for those special projects. LoL, gotta say though, one day it'll probably make the guy rich, while I'm eating ramen. I sure like the youtubes video's though. They are all doing something smarter/better than me. They got followers. .02 cents.
  12. Thanks Gary, Didn't look that big in the pic. I say again... Skillz.
  13. Skillz. What's the starter size Gary?
  14. Î I agree 100%. Masterful work sir.
  15. Very nice, very classy. Makes me want one now. Keep going
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