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Bruno

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Bruno last won the day on August 23

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    Hermit Cliffs, Arizona

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  1. Bruno

    Bloodwood Finishing ?

    Cool, Thanks Guys. started working with it today , it a really nice wood to work with, I was surprised . hope to get more done tomorrow .
  2. Bruno

    Bloodwood Finishing ?

    Hey Guys, Got a new knife I'm working on, and I want to use a piece of African Bloodwood (I think that's what it is) for the handle. I read that it is a very oily wood and see many recommendations for a finish. My question is, what do ya'll use to finish this particular wood ? I usually go with store brand "Tung Oil", but I'm not sure that will work in this case. Tru-Oil, Shellac, lacquer, real Tung Oil, lots of options. Also, which one would be the most durable, while being Food Safe ? Food safe is the priority here. As I read that boiled linseed oil is toxic. I didn't know that. Any advice or links to post's would be appreciated. -b
  3. Bruno

    San-mai blade axe

    That is a very sharp ax. Nice.
  4. Bruno

    Rolling Mill (Pics): Restart

    Short vid of the Beast running. Taken before I added the support brace. It was tipping quite impressively for the weight of the machine. Probably weighs anywhere between 300 - 400 pounds. *edit: yipes big vid, any of the moderators know how to make it smaller screen size? * PastaMaker1.mp4
  5. Bruno

    Rolling Mill (Pics): Restart

    Been a busy week, and a long day. I have completed the Giant Pasta Roller. It Works. I figured, Go All In, so I took the largest piece of mild steel I had and threw it in there. Here is a 1 inch Square stock, and a .65ish inch rebar. I got the 1 inch square down to about 1/8 inch about 20 heats. Obviously got faster heating and rolling wise the thinner it got Got the rebar down to about 1/16th inch. Didn't keep track, but I'm pretty sure it took less than an hour to accomplish this whilst I was fiddling around. Initially took too big a bite on the first pass on the 1 inch, so the rollers stalled, the belt started slipping on the pulley which worked great. Nothing broke. Got it dialed in after a minute or so. Only used the Screw adjustment, didn't use the lever as of yet. Still glad I put it in though. Would have made all the lathe work I did on the cam worthless otherwise, lol. Had to add a frame brace to the machine, since I went off spec, I didn't realize the the machine was prone to tipping when you step on the pedal. I thought that the square tube would have been enough, especially with the weight of the beast and all the motor/gearbox weight in the rear. It wasn't quite enough. The angle iron at the front bottom was enough to keep it from tipping, but it rocked a bit with my weight on it. So I added some 3/8 inch flat bar, and it worked great. No more tipping. The machine also works Great for drawing out tongs... Here is a set of offset bolt tongs I finished tonight. The knife in the pic was one I started a while ago, and did mostly on the power hammer. Wanted to thin it out some more, so I threw it in. It immediately banana'd. Didn't account for the bevel I already had in there. Straitened it out, and got it down to around 1/8 inch. All in all. I'm super happy with the machine. Definitely faster at drawing than my hammer with it's flatish dies. And much, much quieter. Well worth the time and effort to build. Now I'm really gonna be busy, LoL
  6. Bruno

    where to get 5160 thinner than 1/4"?

    http://www.alabamadamascussteel.com/1-8-x-1-1-4-5160-bar-stock/ http://www.admiralsteel.com/shop/ Not personally used either sources. Admiral is well known. Otherwise a good grinder and some cheap calipers ? I'll let the pro's tell you about 80crv2. Are you doing your own heat treatment ?
  7. My first forge was a homemade brake drum forge. I got a few knives and fire pokers out of it. I was lucky enough to get a 2 burner chili forge after that. What I learned from it, was that It WILL outwork me and burn up tons of fuel while doing it. That's why I started building other tools to help me be more efficient while forging. Gas forges are nice. A good coal forge will let you work with any size shape you can imagine though. Really Truly depends on what you want to do with it. There is no single End All Be All Do All Forge. Different tools for different jobs. Building tools can really cut into your hammering and forge time. When I used my brake drum forge, I only made small blades and small things. It was great, because that's all I was capable of. Having learned more, I know for a fact, that I still can't outwork my 2 burner Chili. Easy to get caught up in thinking about and building stuff. The hard part is getting up and doing more often than the doing itself. Don't forget that the blacksmiths of old didn't have all the fancy tools we have today. So one can stand to reason that you don't need them. The Goal is what is important.
  8. Bruno

    Rolling Mill (Pics): Restart

    Got the keyway for the top roller cut today. Always fun doing that with hand tools. Glad I found that Cape chisel all them years ago. Pivot holes drilled. Had to grind the bottom carriage to fit in between the Angle iron frame. Fun. Trimmed and ground my pressure struts to allow for more free movement. Had fun tracking down the right size belt for the pulley. Almost there... Still need to: Drill/Tap and Weld the top roller pillow block brace/support. Trim the sprocket chain to size. Drill/tap the holes in the bottom carriage for bolts or zircs ? Not sure. Drill/Tap the bottom roller shaft for a zirc and drill a hole for the grease to go through. Foot Pedal and spring. Side Lever and Selector plate. Wasn't gonna do this at first, but seems like it might be useful. Wire up the Motor and run wire through conduit. Trim the bottom sprocket shaft, once chain is in place. Need some sort of plate to keep scale and flux from falling into my square tube. Also need to protect the motor fan from the same stuff. Probably build guards for the Pulley and Sprockets. To keep scale off my belt, and to keep fingers/clothes out the chain. Maybe incorporate an oil pan of sorts in the bottom sprocket to keep it oiled nicely ? Handles of sorts on the Acme Nut, might end up replacing with steel. Dunno Turn it on and test. LoL, and I thought this would be an easy build. It's always the little stuff that adds up.
  9. Bruno

    Kitchen Knife for a friend

    I like it. Not a kitchen style I see often. How big is the blade ?
  10. Bruno

    Rolling Mill (Pics): Restart

    Called my steel supplier today. $24.50 for a 1"x 2.5"x 30" piece of steel, and $25 to cut it on the CNC plasma. Yipes. Needless to say, I got the old grinder out and cut another piece off the one inch plate myself. That only cost $9. Here is the old Bottom Roller Carriage, Ugly, and unaligned. Filed the holes to fix the alignment, and never got the pivot holes in there. Here is the new one, which I did the right way (as per directions), and tacked 2 pieces together and drilled. Much Nicer. Got some clearance grinding left to do and some minor stuffs. Foot pedal not camming quite right. Gonna track down a belt and motor switch tomorrow... She is almost there:
  11. Bruno

    Drilling 5160, or how to soften it enough?

    Sometimes you can get away with drilling from the other side. It looks like you are 1/2 way through anyway, so drilling from the other side may get you the rest of the way. Will probably chew up the bit anyway once you get to the center though. I've been learning how to resharpen drill bits Slow speed on a drill press is the way to go. And once you get the squeal, pull back, resharpen the bit and inch it down some more. That helps sometimes. Otherwise you are just work hardening the area. Otherwise, my goto for annealing steel is pretty much get it to non-magnetic, then I leave it in a bucket of wood ash until it cools. Usually overnight, but a few hours should be ok. That's helped me in the past with salvaged car/truck spring steel. If your blade is not already hardened that is. If it is, you will have to reharden it after doing that though. I've also have just left blades in the forge overnight to cool with the forge. That tends to leave more scale though. The key is to let it cool as slowly as possible (generally). True Carbide bits are nice, but I can only find them online and are somewhat expensive. You can also try graduating the bits, as in, start 1/8", then 3/16", then 1/4". Sometimes that helps, as you are cutting much less at a time. My experience with a drill press tells me that you are either cutting or you are not. If you are, go slow, keep cool and shoot for the curl. If you are not, then the piece is too hard in that spot, drill bit is dull, or other. A drill press has a tendency to dull a bit right quick if things just aren't right. Can happen in seconds. If it's not cutting on the get go, do something else. Slow speed, and heavy pressure has often gotten me through a tough spot, even on thick material. Side Note: I like to use center bits for starting holes. Usually used in lathe operations, they are way sturdier than a skinny 1/8" bit, so you can apply more pressure on the press. I like a #4. Added bonus of adding a countersink. https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-CENTER-COUNTERSINK-Tooling/dp/B000N216SU Good Luck, -B
  12. Bruno

    Rolling Mill (Pics): Restart

    Didn't like how the bottom roller carriage lined up. Re-Building it. Other than that, the thing is on the ground and mostly bolted up. Need to find a slightly shorter belt. Also need to get a switch for the motor. A little trimming and grinding of some parts... Hoping to have it running, in the next week or so...
  13. Bruno

    Rolling Mill (Pics): Restart

    Update: $50 for a 1 inch drill bit. Ouch. Today I got my ugly, barely aligned bottom roller carriage put together. Real Ugly, but should work for now. I'll probably end up redoing it. Think it will be way easier if I do it like in the plans next time with the separate pieces cut, then welded. Probably get better alignment. Live and learn. Also, I was wrong, the specs call for what is closer to 3/4" steel for the frame. I may go with that for the next one when I can get some steel. Darned prices going up. Will have to see how it all works. Also, got the beginnings of the pressure struts cut/drilled and tacked. As well as the cam follower minus the foot pedal welded. A question on the pressure struts for anyone who knows or owns one of these things: It's not entirely clear in the plans, but the pressure struts top and bottom have pivot pins on the top to the roller carriage and on the bottom to the cam follower. What's not really clear is, Is there supposed to be clearance between the struts and the carriage and cam follower to actually allow for a Pivot or not ? I mean with the pins in place, should there be a degree of movement in the left/right direction if you are looking at the side of the pressure struts ? Looking at this pic from Dennis K, it appears so, but then looking at John Marcus's build, which are built to spec I believe (with imperial conversion), it appears that there is no extra wiggle room. Does it make a difference ? Also, got an old acme threaded rod I stole off of something else. Should be long enough, the nut though appears to be aluminum but like 3" long. Should be ok. Though the rod appears to be plated, and since I don't wanna do That again, I got the end of the rod to be welded soaking in vinegar for the night. Followed by a thorough brushing/grinding in the morning and a virgin sacrifice to whatever Gods. That should be OK then I think? What's left ? Finish up the pressure struts. Make the Cam Selector Plate and Handle Bar (sort of last on the list). Pillow Block Bearing Top support to help hold them down. Need to cut a keyway in the top roller for the Sprocket. Foot pedal. Zirc in the roller shaft. Alignment bolts over the roller shaft in the bottom roller carriage. Then after all that, I get to take it all apart, lose a bolt or two, and set it all down on the ground and bolt it all together to both See where I messed up, and get it all lined up and stable so I can drill the Pivot holes for the Bottom roller. Got the chain for the sprockets, which I'll need to cut. Then I'll have to track down a belt of the right size for the pulleys. Sure hope I don't need to add an Idler between either of those. LoL. We'll see...
  14. Bruno

    Three Bones

    That's a really cool looking knife. I'd carry that around, cut my apples with it for sure.
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