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Everything posted by Bruno

  1. Yep. That's about it. The top roller goes real slow, something like 20 rpm. You can't really take big bites on the steel, meaning you are not going to turn a 1" x 6"" square stock into 1/4" very fast. Unless the steel is really hot and you have some sort of giant machine, or a press But it is great for getting a consistent thickness in steel, and will really move some steel when you are in the smaller stock range. Search the forums here, there are some good posts. Some vids on youtube also. Not overly complicated to build, can cheat in some places, but lathe work is required for the rollers. Buy the plans from your local supplier to support them. Lots of good info in them. And keep in mind that the machine plans are in metric and the original machine was somewhat small and low to the ground. Some liberty can be taken. The plans are worth getting.
  2. Sweet knife Adam! And Great info Alan. I am also of a mind to leave it alone as much as possible. But then again, they probably made a million of these. Had a similar one in my hands a while ago that belongs to a friend that's obviously seen some use. Believe it was a marine? mark I, Aluminum pommel .Meant for one thing them knives. On one hand, a sweet piece of history. On the other, a totally serviceable knife. Call belongs to the owner. I'd probably just sharpen it and throw some wax over the leather. Steel wool for any rust. Otherwise, I'd enjoy the patina for what it is. Keep it in an air tight case for history to preserve, or restore the leather with some oil/wax if the owner doesn't care, and I'm sure the knife will last another 100 years under moderate use. Probably longer. .02 cents
  3. Shurap does good work...
  4. Good looking knives. I like the second one, the 1/2 socket with wood handle is nice. Wish I'd thought of that. Probably gonna steal the idea and try it myself. Keep on rockin. *obligatory mutterings on the state of the world here* > /dev/null ⏎ no offense intended to anyone.
  5. If only my first looked like that. Nice job. Like the design too. A little difficult to grasp the scale, but looks like It'd be a good neck knife, if that''s what your're aiming for. Don't forget to normalize...
  6. Unique and resourceful . That's for sure. Jawbone of some beast if I'm not mistaken. Maybe comfortable with a gloved hand? Blades look sharp.
  7. Looks like a darned fine knife to me Conner. And I wish I could take pictures as good as you. If it performs, I'd call it good, and get on to the next one. If not, then add it to the bucket and get on to the next one...
  8. Bruno


    Yay! All is well with the universe again! Thank You Niels! Out of curiosity, Who is technically the owner of this forum and it's content ? I only ask because I see this forum as a great and valuable resource with a libraries worth of information contained within. I just wonder if someone has a backup/archive of the forum to date (other than the service provider), and if that is something that could be made available for download. Lol, it'd probably be like 50 gigs worth of data or more, Just saying that would be something valuable that could be passed around via bittorrent or some other method. All in the interest of data preservation of course. I find myself without internet on some occasions, so an offline archive would be nice to be able to search through. I'm limited to my own "Save" folder of all the pretty knives and valuable info which is hard enough to search. : Just a thought. And Thank You Again to all that make this forum possible.
  9. Really like the build so far Garry. I can only add my own experience with a similar build. Here are some of my notes: 1) The bigger the anvil the better. But it doesn't need to be all one piece. When I built mine, I didn't have the money for big steel, but I did have an old 70lb anvil, a big piece of floor safe, some RailRoad track, and sucker rod. I welded it all together like so: The anvil is welded to the floor safe top, welded to a 1" plate, welded to RR track base. Then that is bolted to a 1" base plate that is bolted to a some RR tracks, that are bolted to some RR ties, that are buried in the ground. Total weight is over 400lb's for the anvil part, and around 200-300lbs for the base plate and RR tracks, etc. It works well. I remember reading something about a "Triangle of Influence" regarding anvils, can't recall where or much, but it has to do with the force the blow traversing a certain triangle within the anvil, or something like that. Either way, if you can find the sweet spot within your anvil setup, aim for that with the tup and it should work well. Also, I welded a casing of sorts around the anvil and filled it with sand. Please spare me flak for welding on an anvil, I've been berated on other forums before. I was young and the face was badly damaged when I got the thing. And to be fair, it's gotten way more use in my power hammer than it ever would again as a normal anvil. It's been used up. 2) The tup, as other have said, can be multiple pieces. Mine weighs around 60lbs, and is comprised of some sort of axle, surrounded with 4" square tubing, filled with angle iron and other bits welded together. Works great. 3) I used Railroad track for my dies. Used them as cut and welded. No Heat treatment otherwise. Bolted to the tup and anvil. Works great. No Problems. 4) I use flatish dies. I have a good flat spot on the RR track dies ground in, but I follow the curve other wise on the edges, and it works great for forging in bevels and thinning. 5) My flatish dies work well, but I've recently taken to making some tools. I have a flatting tool, cutting tool, round and triangular (peen) tool in different angles. I'd like to make some spring swages, but haven't had the need yet. Never changed my flat dies since the build. 6) I use a 2hp motor and tire clutch with a 3" drive wheel. The tire is a crappy spare doughnut tire type. The kind that only last's 50 miles or so. Works great. Little wear so far. And the drive wheel is built from a 3" pipe locally sourced that is screwed into comparable parts and welded onto the motor drive shaft. (attached to motor via flexible shaft coupler.) The 2 hp motor for the 60lb tup, plus all the weight of linkage and springs, has been more that enough, and I don't think I'd go lower than that. But that is what I am used to. So YMMV. I get about 3-4 hits a second (depending on how hard I'm standing), so I guess 180 - 240 bpm. The tire clutch allows for great control, and I can hold the tup up if I wanted to. 7) Build Guards. I didn't (...). Anyone doing this probably should. 8) I used 1" thick uhmv for my guides. And bar/chain oil for lube. (The chainsaw type). No problems, no noticeable wear so far. I oil every time I forge, multiple times for heavy forging. The oil breaks down and leaks with gravity. 9) The closer your tolerances on all the spinny bits, the better the thing will run. My original iteration of my hammer had an off center weld on the tire clutch drive shaft. This led to the main spring to shaft linkage arm breaking. And a lot of wobble. I've since machined a 1.5" drive shaft and some hubs for the tire and drive linkage plate. Much better. Less wobble. 10) As far as springs are concerned, I have 4 flatish truck springs. A set combined. I have the back part bolted down to stiffen the action and the front is bolted just past the pivot to allow for whipping action. works great. But I've recently had to upgrade the bolting on the back end of the spring. Maybe it's the force of the motor, but the last 3/4 of the spring that is bolted together has been snapping bolts on me. I used 3/8" grade 8 hardened bolts, and they were snapping on me due to the spring action. I have upgraded to 5/16" grade 5 bolts, and have not had that problem in the last 6 or so forge sessions. I do like shear point's, but that spot on the hammer needed more flex. 11) For height adjustment, I originally used an old RR turn buckle, which I thought would never break. Guess what happened. Snapped clean off. I now use part of a ratchet chain binder as adjustment, Much stonger. 12's) I've filled any cavities in the steel with sand to dampen the sound and add weight. I don't know if I'd be comfortable with this type of build moving any faster than it does. It hit's hard, and as and old employer once put it, "It'll pop it like a zit". That's all I can think of for now. Hope any of it helps you with your build.
  10. Bruno


    That's a sweet dagger Alex! Great work!
  11. Ouch... Sorry about your troubles Chad. Hope you get better soon. Can't let the forge stay cold for too long, right?
  12. If a press is what you want, then go for it. But they are very dangerous and not something to undertake lightly. Don't cheap out on parts. Nothing worse than a high pressure hose breaking and shooting out hot hydraulic fluid at 3000 psi at your face. So make sure all your parts are properly rated for what you are building. And you build all the guards where they need to be. surpluscenter.com has lots of parts. Pay for some good plans if you can find some. But if I can recommend, I would buy an old log splitter that's in good working condition and convert that to a press. Would be less work, and most of the parts are already included. Even the bottle jack press would be a good first project to undertake. Less money and parts, and would give you a good idea of how much more power you need or want. And still dangerous. I told a friend about a simple bottle jack press when he needed to make some pintles and gudgeons for his boat. So he built one with a 12 ton bottle jack. While (cold) pressing the stainless steel he had to make one of the gudgeons, something moved, and it shot right out the front of the thing. Lucky he wasn't in the way. It was only hand operated too. No compressor or drill or anything like that. Depending on how good you are at scrapping, a hydraulic press can be built for around $1200 give or take. Motor, Ram, Steel + dies, hoses, pump and controls. I think that's all, never built one. Presses can still be loud as well. An Appalachian Style Power Hammer, would probably be easier/quicker and cheaper to build. Many examples and varieties online. Look up Rusty/Dusty junk yard hammer. Doesn't have to be super big and loud to get you working on some steel. I believe they have been build with 3/4 or 1hp motors for the smaller ones. Better than old arm power. Just remember for hammers, anvil weight is key to efficiency (heavier == more gooder), and for presses the steel frame and the welding holding it together is what helps keep you alive (thick as you can get the better). I've never built a press, so do your research. Good luck which ever way you decide to go.
  13. Yep it's a McDonald style and I love it. Easier ways of building than the way I did it. I built off spec. Some lathe work required. I never use the lever or bottom cam. The screw adjust works fine. It really is an impressive machine given to us by Mr. McDonald. If I had the time/money/ and space, I would still build a press with a full set of dies. It's just better at some things. But would not trade my hammer or mill. Would just add to the group
  14. Fly presses are awesome. Want one myself. But I don't think they will be very effective for drawing out damascus. They are great for precision work as you can see in Matt's video, but damascus needs high heat, which goes away fast. For the price of a good fly press capable of doing serious work, you can probably buy yourself a decent used welder, and build either a Junk Yard hammer, hydraulic press, or a rolling mill, or all three based on some prices I've seen. Old stick welders can be had for a $100 give or take. If your neighbors are a concern, I would look into a rolling mill. I've been very happy with mine, and it's quiet and effective. Really only hear the motor going. But that would be a bit of work and expense, and some machining. There are other options though. I see guys converting log splitters into presses with success. Other's use bottle jack presses: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx7voy5r4QM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwZ-GYUZZEY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGUXXMK-79k Of course if you were spending the money, I'd just get a really nice big anvil. Those are just nice to have. A good treadle hammer might be an option as well. Several variations out there. Here are a few. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMSlgkYkFIg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iVEbwXJ8VY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39Gljf24gRI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsFPPyz9Pmk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERbsPM4-Z_g The treadle hammer is No Power hammer, but it is relatively simple to build , depending on the variety you'd chose, and can save your arm some when drawing out billets or stock. Really depends on what your target billet size is going to be. A treadle will still take a while if your damascus billet is 3" high. Depending on how good you are at finding and re-purposing scrap, you could also build a fly press: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xq-npND_I8I http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/p9509.html <--- these guys sell fly presses. https://www.oldworldanvils.com/models-available-and-pricing Lot's of options out there. And as always consider all these tools dangerous. Hope any of this helps...
  15. Yep, gonna need to make one now. That's just too nice!
  16. Really like the profile of that chopper Conner. Looking good.
  17. Old files, Nicholson or Diamond are great steel too. Really old one's are w2 I think. otherwise they would be 10xx. If you can forgeweld, then use old band saw blades, some of them are 15n20 or L6. Or if you can find those old big circular blades from a saw mill. That's good steel too. But I've seen knives made from modern day circular saw blades too. No guarantee's with scrap. Test your steels. Heat up and quench a piece in water/brine or oil. Then stick it in a vise and hit it with a hammer. If it breaks instead of bends, then it is a hardenable steel and you did it right. Then check out the grain structure. I'm no expert, but I believe many old japanese katana's, amounted to no better than a 1060 steel, plus the iron of course. So don't get caught up in the whole which is the best steel debate. Like I said, big can of worms...
  18. Hey Paul, I've made several kitchen knives out or recycled leaf spring. No guarantee that it is 5160, could be 10xx, although I can tell you that it is very tough stuff, and not the easiest to forge. I'd say 5160 is fine for a kitchen knife. Maybe not the Best, but it will work just fine. What's more important is the edge geometry and heat treatment. I've had good success with warm canola oil. One of my small sharper knives made of leaf spring, I quenched in canola, and the tempered to 375 degrees (which is a bit low). It's very sharp and hold an edge well, and does not take long to sharpen, a few passess on a good stone. Again, there is no guarantee with leaf spring, I have no idea whether the one's I used are 5160, 10xx. 96xx, or other. But I've had a lot of success with leaf spring. I usually do 3 normalizations, with a progressively lower temp each time (start high, then taper down). Then my canola goes to about 120 - 140 degrees. Then I quench. I don't usually multi quench unless I get a bad warp, which I guess is beneficial to triple quench 5160, some people say. But in real life, I don't think most people will actually notice any real performance difference. What's the best steel for a kitchen knife? == big can of worms. Use whatever works for you and what you can get. Depending on your skill and ability to scrap, you could look into bearing race steel or large ball bearings. Some of the bigger, older ones are likely 52100, which is a great performing steel. Any bearings/races made in china, or newer things, probably are case hardened or some other weird steel combo that won't do you any good. But if you can get any leaf springs from older vehicles, you likely have a good steel to work with. I would avoid coil springs. Good Luck.
  19. Great job Conner. Looks all good to me.
  20. Bruno


    2 confirmed cases in: at my county. hope they get better. really do. meanwhile, has anyone ever seen these plans for a homemade blower ? http://www.rayrogers.com/blower.htm inventive I'd say. would it really be enough to power a forced air burner ? Forced air is more fuel efficient isn't it? Not counting the power to the blower. How big would the pipe have to be to equal the power of 2 x 1" old chili venturi burners ? About a good weld heat at an 18"x9" interior?
  21. know of any good demonstration vids of that? Also, here is my latest... 300+ layer, 1084/15n20/52100, twisted raindrop from a piece left over. gotta work on a sheath now...
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