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Bruno

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Everything posted by Bruno

  1. Did this instead of getting valuable sleep... Slight delam here that must be ground out... Start of the twist. Cut off the bad part... Here is what I was left with in the end:
  2. Finally, Between work, Family, chores, and all the danged things I have to maintain and repair on a daily basis, I finally had a few hours to work on this thing. So here is the start of it. Last night I managed to fix my power hammer again.. Yes folks, it is possible to drill through hardened spring steel. Pretty loud when you're not doing it right Here is my new stabilizer, worked great today. As in, it didn't break, and the hammer runs like a sewing machine now.. So, I actually started this bar a few months back, had it sitting there collecting dust the whole time. Got it to the 23 layers back then. Started off as pieces of 1084, 15n20 and 52100. Doesn't look like it in the pic, but that should be 23 layers, the 15n20 is rather thin. My notes don't say that I folded it, so It must be the 23 layers that was written on the billet. After the first run through, I goto 23 layers total. After initial grinding and cleanup: Here is the 23 layers with a quick test etch. Not sure what happened with the dark spot, I must have ground through the upper layer, which is probably the 1084. Then I cut my billet into 5 pieces, and re-stacked: And here is the result: This should be around 115 Layers now. Next I cut the billet into 3 and re-stacked again. Sorry, no pics, was in the thick of it with the fuel burning... Here is what I was left with after I finished for the evening. If my math is right, I should be over 300 layers in this billet. I think I'm going to attempt a twisted raindrop pattern on this billet. Will have to think on it some, make sure I think I know what I'm doing, maybe. As far as the blade... I'm afraid I won't have the time to make a folder like I wanted. Plus my drill press doesn't drill straight. So it's a no go for this round. Not sure I really want to make a short blade with wooden handle, again, because of time constraints, and I don't want the piece to look Rushed. So I think I've decided on a kiridashi style blade. Something that will show off the full pattern, with a nice little leather carrying sheath. Hope that fits the parameters. I may change my mind. I may go with a brute de forge style. Dunno yet. Any concerns about that ? We are good to a 3.5 - 4"blade yes ?
  3. I built this one. works great... might need to be creative on sourcing parts: https://chriscrawfordknives.com/tutorials/written-tutorials/electro-etcher/page-1/ Or just skip all the fancy parts and hard wire everything. Most important parts are the transformer, bridge rectifier and the switches. maybe mouser or digikey if radio shack is dead for the fancy parts. I've used this unit for a while and am very pleased with it. I originally used it with salt water for an etching solution, but found that it blew fuses often when I held the lead down longer than a couple seconds. That could be cuz of the way I built the lead. Since then, I've been using an electrolyte solution provided by the people that make my stencils. http://www.img-electromark.com/ Their deep etching solution has worked Great for me so far. No blown fuses. Hope that helps...
  4. Dang, wish I saw that when I was starting out. It's perfect. I would pin that pic in the tools and beginners section Alan. Genius-level invention indeed.
  5. Those are sweet axe heads. Nice work! very slick looking .
  6. Bruno

    Baby Seax

    That is pretty. Like it.
  7. Here is my latest kitchen ware. Not really meat cleaver. More Vegetable cleavers. Thin. Made of leaf spring in a feeble attempt to dwindle my collection. Forged these by hand since I broke my Power Hammer again. The wood is some sort of bamboo driftwood I think was salvaged off the Jamaican coast. Had it sitting for a while. Brass pins. Scratches on the big one are from chopping at desert stuff you'll never find in a kitchen. It passed. Let me know what ya'll think...
  8. Folder is more practical for most i think as an edc.
  9. Can I has it? Really excellent work! The steel is beautiful , but that handle... Wow.
  10. I only found two references to a date. One made by you Joshua.... https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/38308-kith-2019/page/3/ And the other made by Conner on the top of the sign up page. https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/38384-kith-2019-sign-up/ I'm still in btw. But work and family has had me left with non existent time. I was gonna push for the end of the month, but I don't want rushed work leaving the shop. I wouldn't mind a 30 day extension... Probably straying away from the stilleto idea and go with a small lockback folder. Just to keep it state friendly. Err Friendlier...
  11. If that was something I could afford, I'd be first in line. It's a screaming deal Gary, and anyone who has the chance should take it.
  12. Forging is relaxing and grinding is peaceful after long days working for the Man... Like the old song says: At least you know you'll have better blades than the next guy...
  13. Ouch! Heal well and soon Joshua !
  14. Hey Gerhard, I don't think there is anything wrong with setting a high price for something you may not want to do. That'll keep those weird projects away most the time. I'm not sure that's a good business practice, but then again, it's your business, so do what you want. If you want to make money, then sure, take anything you can get. I don't like doing things that bore me either. I for one don't enjoy making 100 of the same knife. So I like to mix it up. But then again, it's really hard for me to compete with walmart as far as "Good Knives", or a sweet $200 "Damascus knife" someone saw online. So yes, I have a limited customer base around here, but I still enjoy making knives. As far as how to charge, hard to go wrong charging time + materials. Don't forget you are doing custom work. If you had a hundred icepicks made, then sure they will be cheaper. But don't undercut yourself. If you spent 1 week making a badass icepick or chisel, I believe the price should reflect that. So long as the customer understands that. If you just wanna sharpen a nail and wrap tape around it, that'll be quick, but not worth as much. There is an old saying, "A good salesman can sell ice to an eskimo". I'm more likely to sell them an icepick and tell them the truth. That's probably bad business Good Luck and don't give up...
  15. Gerhard, I think the idea of getting an ammo can is a good idea. I tend to do more of a horizontal quench, well it's more diagonal than anything. Not saying it will solve your problem, but it's a good start. At the very least, you might be able to see the warp happen in real time. It might lead to some clues. Is it possible that you don't have enough oil for these longer blades ? I do most of my quenches in one of the longer ammo cans, which holds a bit over 2.5 gallons of oil. How thick is the blade going in ? I would really try to do a quench or two when it is a bit darker in the sky. At the very least you will be able to see more of the colors just to make sure everything looks right. Also, I believe 5160 is one of those steels that can benefit from multiple quenches. Not a huge amount, but some people do it. I know that I've had blades come out warped/twisted before, so I would straighten them out in the forge and the quench sometimes 2 or 3 times, and it usually comes out straight eventually. Just another thing to try...
  16. Gerhard, Are you normalizing before heat treating ? I go through a bit of leaf spring, which may or not be 5160 at times, and have gotten good results. I usually normalize at least 3 times before I get to grinding. I also sometimes normalize again right before the quench. Slightly uneven grinding on thin blades can lead to a warp. Normalizing seems to help that. Also, are you quenching vertically or horizontally ? Do you get the same problem doing it either way ? Your oil could be too hot also. I usually go to about 120 - 140 degress. Although that's not necessarily uncomfortably hot for me. Bit of rhino skin on my old paws. A simple food thermometer if you can get one can help eliminate that possibility. Are you getting even heats in the kiln, and are you convinced the temps are right ? Is this a new kiln or old ? Do you get same results trying to heat from the forge instead ? Do you quench in the dark or in open light ? Thin blades can be tricky. Really need a consistent even heat, and the tip will always cool quickest. You may want to set the kiln slightly hotter so that you have time for transfer to the quench as the tip will cool in open air. Have you tried just doing an edge quench ? A chef's knife does not really need to be full hard. Just the edge. I've heard that old oil can cause problems also. How long has it been sitting there and how often has it been used ? For very thin blades, I'm not sure that the quench plates do you any good. When straightening right after the quench you want the blades to stay hot. Putting them between plates would suck out all your heat I think. I think when straitening you are shooting for the 400ish degree area, and you don't have much time. I've had good success doing it on a hot anvil, so long as you are quick, you only have a few seconds. How far you bend and how long you keep bending depends on your bravery. How thick is the blade/edge when quenching ? Forge thick and grind thin and all that, may be better to leave the blade slightly thicker during quench. I believe really thin 5160 will air harden. That might be causing a problem too. That's all I can think of for now, lots of possibilities to sort through. Heck sometimes it could just be bad steel ? Get it from a good source ? Were the stars lined up to the left of North Easterly direction ?
  17. Yeah the bernzomatic torch heads will work fine. I use the Bernzomatic BZ8250HT, because it creates a nice big swirly flame and is stainless steel. It works well, but the forge I use is insulated with 1" of wool (maybe 2", don't remember) and clay covered, probably some ITC in it as well. It does get hot enough to forge, but I usually have to keep the doors covered to retain all the heat. I can get 1" steel to orange, but it takes a while. I would read up well on forge construction if you really want something good. Covering your firebricks in wool is probably overkill unless you are going to build a proper enclosure. Either way, if you do use the wool, MAKE SURE it is contained/covered/rigidized, whatever. Otherwise your risk releasing airborne Silicates in the air that will destroy your lungs. Not Good. If you got a couple of torch heads, you may want to try using using them both if you really want a 12" long chamber. Just be careful with the fuel tanks. Make sure they are well away and insulated from explosive instigators Look up "Coffee Can Forge", plenty of examples of small forges using these type of propane burners. If done right, it should work well for heat treating of smaller blades. I've even seen a forced air version using some pipe a mapp gas tank and a mattress inflator. If you have access to any type of blower and either charcoal or coal, you can have a really simple forge that will get your steel plenty hot without much trouble. Hair dryers, leaf blowers, shop vacs have all been used with success. Check out http://www.rayrogers.com/blower.htm. Also, if you you an oxy/acetylene setup, with a little practice you can heat treat with that alone. Lots of ways to skin this cat.
  18. That looks particularly deadly Gary. Nice one. What's the handle material ?
  19. Sounds Dangerous. I don't think it will work well. It might work, you can give it a try, but I imagine the burners will burn up in short order inside the insulation of kaowool or firebrick at the temps needed for hardening. If you got firebrick or kaowool, then you are better off getting a bernzomatic torch head. I use one in my smallest forge, with proper insulation and clay over the insulation. Gets plenty hot. The coleman stove burners are probably better off used with some regular bricks to build a Tempering oven of sorts. I doubt they would handle or heat past 600 degrees. There are a few simple burners that can be made for cheap. Look up Ron Reil or Frosty's T-Burner. A forced air burner is super simple if you have the means for that. I've heard that even a simple weed burner can work well in a properly insulated forge. I'm no expert on the subject, but I think you would have a back pressure problem with the coleman burners also? Might not stay lit. Which again, sounds dangerous. Good Luck.
  20. Bruno

    Bummed big time

    Hey Doug, Tell this guy that there might be a big reward for finding the anvils, and see if that leads anywhere. Wouldn't be surprised if he heard something from a guy... The rest is up to you.
  21. Yep, That's a good one. I bet the new owners Jaw Dropped.
  22. A buddy of mine has a knife very similar to that one, except I believe the markings say "Enley Co.". Re-peening the tang sounds good for a permanent solution, but what about some locktite on the nut instead of peening ? Provided you can get the whole thing off anyway if necessary. That way if it needs to be repaired again due to use/abuse it can be more easily worked on. I like Alan's idea about the Boiled linseed oil. I'll have to keep that one in the vault for when I run across that sort of problem.
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