Jump to content

Bruno

Members
  • Content Count

    357
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Bruno

  1. Good info guys Much to experiment with...
  2. I definitely got some experimenting to do... I've tried clay'ing my last 3 cleavers, but didn't get any sort of pattern. The steel was fairly thin though. Also, was made from a different set of leaf spring. I think I still have the other 3 leafs from that particular trailer, been saving them. Gonna try the explosion test. Am I the only weird Metal Worker that keeps track of where he got his scrap from ?
  3. No problem Colonel, I am just trying to understand what's going to see if I can reproduce it effectively. How much do you grind away before you lose the pattern, and on what kind of steel do you see this most with ? It's not hamon. That seem's clear. Decarbomon ?
  4. LoL, ok, I get it. and just cuz...
  5. I'm definitely going to try it next time I can get to the forge. If it turn's out to be 1095'ish, I might try my hands at another water quench with the steel. I tried a while ago with a file blade, got some activity, but also got a crack. Very small crack, but still there. I finished the knife as a little herb chopper. Thanks Joël, Precision decarb ? Is that what I got ? So am I grinding too thin before clay and heat treat? So the decarb is occuring during the forge heat before the quench ? I don't leave it in long, tend to hold the steel the whole time to prevent overheating. Not doubting you, just trying to understand what's going on. I'm no metallurgist. I thought that the whole process of hamon involved shallow hardening steals. If you grind too far, don't you lose hamon in a traditional (105x, 106x) steel ? So the decarb would have to happen right as I am heating for the quench? I do normalize several times before HT. What of the other portion's of the blade closer to the handle, they were completely covered in clay, yet I still get decarb? Maybe my understanding is wrong or flawed, but I thought decarb tended to happen due to overheating and contact with atmosphere (air). Is my understanding correct? The clay should have prevented air, but then again, if I polished too high, the clay falls off sometimes, or at least separates I guess. Always trying to get better at this. Who is Allen Sherman ?
  6. Dang. I want one. Great Work!
  7. Thanks Joshua, The steel being 10xx is probably the most likely explanation for the results I got. I imagine you know as well as I do how old stuff is out in here in the desert. I tended to grab every leaf I could when I had easy access to them. Funny you say that. I had the same vision. And No, It wasn't a typo. My last couch was made of some nice thin whitish leather and a good part of it wasn't animal destroyed, so I took it outside with a sharp knife. Thinking about making a file holder/roll out of the big piece. Edit: Hey, here's a thought, If I forged out some of this steel to 1/8" x 1" x whatever, and polished it up to eliminate cracking problems, and I heated and quenched in water or brine. If it explodes, then it probably a chromium/alloy steel? Right ? Otherwise if it survives, after several attempts, then chances are it's a simpler steel. Am I correct in that line of thinking ? Not a definitive test of course, but might yield a guesstimate...
  8. Thanks Charles, specs are: Leaf Spring Steel. Unknown. Blade is around 7.75" inches tip to bottom of ricasso. Overall length is just under 13" inches. 1 3/8" at the widest part of blade, where the clip begins. 1 1/4" at the base. Thickness is about 1/8". It's a really light blade considering it's size. I don't have a scale. Thanks Alan, I've had this happen before a few times on some other blades, but this is the first time I got a clean pattern on both sides of the blade. Overheating ? I don't know? When I quench, I usually do it a few minutes after I turn on my forge, just before full operating temp. Makes it easier for me to not get the steel too hot and is easier for me to see the color of the steel before the bright forge walls drown out the color. If I recall correctly, I quenched shortly after non-magnetic. Tested with a magnet. Hard to see decalescence with the clay. Quench in warmed canola. Triple Temper. Maybe I got one of those rare leaf springs that are a 10xx makeup ? Or maybe I forged it for so long that I beat all the chromium out of the steel, yet somehow amazingly left the carbon alone? Tactical Hammer Work. Lol. Don't know.
  9. Really beautiful sword. Masterful, even if you say it's not right.
  10. *Warning! Gratuitous Pics Ahead* Hey Everybody, Here are some pics of my latest work. Felt like forging, so I grabbed a piece of leaf spring and came up with this: Here it is as Forged. Those little nubs weren't so easy to forge with my setup, then I ended up grinding away a lot. First Clean Up and Profile: SATANITE!!! I never expect to see this with spring steel. And this stuff is hard to move, like it has chromium or something in it. Cracks easy if it's not hot enough. But this one survived the quench straight and true. No way for me to know what steel this is. Old leaf springs though... After getting done on the belt grinder... up to 800 grit here I think. Here is the left over spring I use to forge this. Almost 1/2" thick. Probably off an old Mobile Home Trailer. What's going on here ?? I had no luck with polishing and etching with vinegar and lemon to try and bring the activity out. So I went to a ferric dip. I only have up to 2000 grit paper, so I went to that, then etched. I never liked mirror finishes anyway, 1 fingerprint and it's over... The clip has a nice edge, but is too thick to really get sharp. I didn't want to make it too thin anyway. Gratuitous pics to follow. I forged this knife with a wrapped handle in mind, because I don't have tons of time to play with this stuff. So I used some Elk Hide, and gutted black and grey paracord, tightly wrapped Katana style. Then hot waxed. Feels solid to me. I kept the forged pommel rough. Fun. Finally, Sheath made of elk and couch hide and hot waxed. Blade is around 7.75" inches tip to bottom of ricasso. Overall length is just under 13" inches. Tell me what ya'll think.
  11. I built one of those, and personally... It's overrated. Does it work? Sure. Is it really faster that just hand sanding? Well, mine is taken apart under my work table. Mine is poorly built over a weekend using scavenged parts from the shop. If that tells you anything. I think if you do everything "right", then hand sanding shouldn't take all that much time anyway, unless you have lot's of nooks and crevasses. I like to use 400, 600, and 800 grit black oxide sanding belts, and I've had finishes off the belt come out damn near polished (maybe dull belts?), but I know sometimes when I take the paper to it after the belts It feels like I'm going backwards sometimes. As in it looked better before I touched it with the paper. Your mileage may vary. As far as the tuning fork goes, I'll leave one next to my bottle of redheaded virgin blood and pixie dust, you know for those special projects. LoL, gotta say though, one day it'll probably make the guy rich, while I'm eating ramen. I sure like the youtubes video's though. They are all doing something smarter/better than me. They got followers. .02 cents.
  12. Thanks Gary, Didn't look that big in the pic. I say again... Skillz.
  13. Skillz. What's the starter size Gary?
  14. Î I agree 100%. Masterful work sir.
  15. Very nice, very classy. Makes me want one now. Keep going
  16. Awesome work Frank!! Want one myself now. Thanks for sharing.
  17. Bruno

    Nightmare Tanto

    Another Very nice one...
  18. I think it's a fun show and I watch it myself. They edit out most of the forging, so for me it's all about the cutting and destruction which is just about the best thing to do all the time, but that's just me. Definitely created a lot of interest in knife making, and I'm sure a few new guys are making a buck selling knives they learned how to make after watching FiF, good for them, we should all be so smart. But I think like all things, it will pass. They gotta be running out of historical blades to make, lest they just start picking Captain So And So from 1709 who outsmarted so and so's sword/knife/spear/axe/etc. Now that it seems they get 2 episodes a week, I think they are Riding the High right now. Always a hard crash after that peak though. Wouldn't surprise me if it's replaced by Drone Combat wars by highly sponsored teams or individuals, kinda like robot wars, but with deadly drones. MY IDEA HISTORY CHANNEL!. You want it, remember what Paulie says in GoodFella's, **** *** Pay Me!. . Well technically Henry says it. No offense intended board members. And Connor, I'm sure all that meat is either BBQ'ed for the staff or donated. It is filmed in NYC, someone would complain if it wasn't. Unless it was all bad to begin with, which would probably make it cheaper from the butcher anyway. Though when I see them slice through them nice pieces of leather and hide, man, I love to see it, but I get that twinge, you know. Like, hey I could have used that. I'll keep watching, bout the only TV I watch anyway. Figure if you can't learn anything from what you are watching, then it's probably just a waste of time anyway.
  19. You got that right Doug. Don't want to get caught up in it. Mostly bushes around here, but the old pieces that grew big is almost like ironwood. Same family I think. I've had some pieces with a real orange color to them. Yes frustrating indeed. Just need more practice I guess. I was hesitant to hollow grind before heat treat, so I left it as a wedge. Then afterwards the hollow grind was not going well, and I probably lost 1/8" of my original edge just trying to get it right. Plus the problems with overheating. Just went fubar from there. Ended up as the shape you see. I think part of the problem is my sander setup, only have a 6" contact wheel, and the drive pulley gets in the way sometimes. Although I've had success with a hollow grind on larger blades. Again, more practice I guess. I'll try the next one on a less costly piece of steel. Did come out pretty dang sharp though, slices into skin more than shaves. Thanks for the info and pic Cason, didn't know about the 8th''s thing. I have a couple of old European razors somewhere, I'll have to find and look at closely. Try to get closer to the proper shape. Although, I could never get those to shave well either, maybe it's not really hair on my face and just fine wires from years of grinding on there ? Thanks Guys
  20. Thanks John, On the cleaver, I finish to 600 grit, then I soak in ferric for about an hour. I find it really helps with rust on these leaf springs. I do clay quench for a differential heat treat. Sometimes I get, it's not hamon, but I do get a little pattern of sorts. Not sure whats going with it. It's hit or miss on any patterning, seems to depend on the thickness of the piece. The ferric really brings out the grain. Hard to get a good pic of the razor, Not as thin as it could be I guess, had a hard time with the hollow grind on this one.
  21. Hey All, Just finished these 2 up recently. First we have a cleaver/nakiri made of leaf spring with a desert cat's claw handle. Nice one to add to the collection: I've been very pleased with the performance of the big one, minces garlic and chops frozen meat, and the edge stay's sharp. Slits and cuts bread dough with ease, bit me a couple times too. The owner of the little one also has been very pleased, hasn't even needed a sharpening yet and is used everyday. Hopefully it goes well for the owner of the new one. And here is the Pretty failure, err or Pretty Good failure: I got it very Sharp and Thin. It shaves arm hair with ease, but when going at the face it Irritates WAY too much. I think it's cuz of the damascus. I think that's why you don't see many damascus razors, at least without a monosteel edge. I believe I got the heat treat and temper spot on, but when I get to the burr, I can see it break apart into it's respective layers. Probably why it's catching the whiskers so much. Any insights from anyone whose ever made a razor ? Otherwise, it feels great in the hand. Will keep it around for cutting leather and such, which is like butter.
  22. Hard to tell by my eye. I've not run across any wrought in my life time. Try etching it in ferric if you got it. I believe wrought shows black streaks where the silicone slag is left over. Also, I think if you forge it wrought tends to break apart into those strands. Need to forge weld it back really hot. I need to find me some wrought iron...
  23. Truly depends on your equipment and skill . Got a good forge? A big press? A power hammer? Good anvil? Heat treating forge? Small canisters are tricky enough to do by hand. Damascus making is not an economical process. Always best to start small in the realm of blacksmithing. Teaches and humbles one a lot. To answer your question though, sure it's possible. How big a sword are you making? .02 cents
  24. Got these two out of heat treat and temper. Big one is cleaver/nakiri for a friend made of leaf spring. The smaller is a straight razor for the old noodle. Made of 180+ layer twist damascus. Differential heat treat on both.
×
×
  • Create New...