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Everything posted by Bruno

  1. Sheaths. Ack. Hate sewing, old broken hands. And don't have any kydex gear. Hand Sanding: Mostly not fun. Unless you got a nice hamon or something going. Then it's not so bad. Fitting gaurds with files: Ughhh. Handles not coming out perfect. Most of my dislikes come from not having the equipment and funds and time that would make it fast and fun. A lathe, a mill, with tooling, a bigger grinder with attachments and a room full of sharp belts, a stock of pre-shaped handle material instead of all natural reclaimed/foraged stock, a leather capable sewing machine, brand new an
  2. Good info guys Much to experiment with...
  3. I definitely got some experimenting to do... I've tried clay'ing my last 3 cleavers, but didn't get any sort of pattern. The steel was fairly thin though. Also, was made from a different set of leaf spring. I think I still have the other 3 leafs from that particular trailer, been saving them. Gonna try the explosion test. Am I the only weird Metal Worker that keeps track of where he got his scrap from ?
  4. No problem Colonel, I am just trying to understand what's going to see if I can reproduce it effectively. How much do you grind away before you lose the pattern, and on what kind of steel do you see this most with ? It's not hamon. That seem's clear. Decarbomon ?
  5. LoL, ok, I get it. and just cuz...
  6. I'm definitely going to try it next time I can get to the forge. If it turn's out to be 1095'ish, I might try my hands at another water quench with the steel. I tried a while ago with a file blade, got some activity, but also got a crack. Very small crack, but still there. I finished the knife as a little herb chopper. Thanks Joël, Precision decarb ? Is that what I got ? So am I grinding too thin before clay and heat treat? So the decarb is occuring during the forge heat before the quench ? I don't leave it in long, tend to hold the steel th
  7. Thanks Joshua, The steel being 10xx is probably the most likely explanation for the results I got. I imagine you know as well as I do how old stuff is out in here in the desert. I tended to grab every leaf I could when I had easy access to them. Funny you say that. I had the same vision. And No, It wasn't a typo. My last couch was made of some nice thin whitish leather and a good part of it wasn't animal destroyed, so I took it outside with a sharp knife. Thinking about making a file holder/roll out of the big piece. Edit:
  8. Thanks Charles, specs are: Leaf Spring Steel. Unknown. Blade is around 7.75" inches tip to bottom of ricasso. Overall length is just under 13" inches. 1 3/8" at the widest part of blade, where the clip begins. 1 1/4" at the base. Thickness is about 1/8". It's a really light blade considering it's size. I don't have a scale. Thanks Alan, I've had this happen before a few times on some other blades, but this is the first time I got a clean pattern on both sides of the blade. Overheating ? I don't know
  9. Really beautiful sword. Masterful, even if you say it's not right.
  10. *Warning! Gratuitous Pics Ahead* Hey Everybody, Here are some pics of my latest work. Felt like forging, so I grabbed a piece of leaf spring and came up with this: Here it is as Forged. Those little nubs weren't so easy to forge with my setup, then I ended up grinding away a lot. First Clean Up and Profile: SATANITE!!! I never expect to see this with spring steel. And this stuff is hard to move, like it has chromium or something in it. Cracks easy if it's not hot
  11. I built one of those, and personally... It's overrated. Does it work? Sure. Is it really faster that just hand sanding? Well, mine is taken apart under my work table. Mine is poorly built over a weekend using scavenged parts from the shop. If that tells you anything. I think if you do everything "right", then hand sanding shouldn't take all that much time anyway, unless you have lot's of nooks and crevasses. I like to use 400, 600, and 800 grit black oxide sanding belts, and I've had finishes off the belt come out damn near polished (maybe dull belts?), but I know sometimes when
  12. Thanks Gary, Didn't look that big in the pic. I say again... Skillz.
  13. Skillz. What's the starter size Gary?
  14. Î I agree 100%. Masterful work sir.
  15. Very nice, very classy. Makes me want one now. Keep going
  16. Awesome work Frank!! Want one myself now. Thanks for sharing.
  17. Another Very nice one...
  18. I think it's a fun show and I watch it myself. They edit out most of the forging, so for me it's all about the cutting and destruction which is just about the best thing to do all the time, but that's just me. Definitely created a lot of interest in knife making, and I'm sure a few new guys are making a buck selling knives they learned how to make after watching FiF, good for them, we should all be so smart. But I think like all things, it will pass. They gotta be running out of historical blades to make, lest they just start picking Captain So And So from 1709 who outsmarted so an
  19. You got that right Doug. Don't want to get caught up in it. Mostly bushes around here, but the old pieces that grew big is almost like ironwood. Same family I think. I've had some pieces with a real orange color to them. Yes frustrating indeed. Just need more practice I guess. I was hesitant to hollow grind before heat treat, so I left it as a wedge. Then afterwards the hollow grind was not going well, and I probably lost 1/8" of my original edge just trying to get it right. Plus the problems with overheating. Just went fubar from there. Ended up as
  20. Thanks John, On the cleaver, I finish to 600 grit, then I soak in ferric for about an hour. I find it really helps with rust on these leaf springs. I do clay quench for a differential heat treat. Sometimes I get, it's not hamon, but I do get a little pattern of sorts. Not sure whats going with it. It's hit or miss on any patterning, seems to depend on the thickness of the piece. The ferric really brings out the grain. Hard to get a good pic of the razor, Not as thin as it could be I guess, had a hard time with the hollow grind on this one.
  21. Hey All, Just finished these 2 up recently. First we have a cleaver/nakiri made of leaf spring with a desert cat's claw handle. Nice one to add to the collection: I've been very pleased with the performance of the big one, minces garlic and chops frozen meat, and the edge stay's sharp. Slits and cuts bread dough with ease, bit me a couple times too. The owner of the little one also has been very pleased, hasn't even needed a sharpening yet and is used everyday. Hopefully it goes well for the owner of the new one. And here is
  22. Hard to tell by my eye. I've not run across any wrought in my life time. Try etching it in ferric if you got it. I believe wrought shows black streaks where the silicone slag is left over. Also, I think if you forge it wrought tends to break apart into those strands. Need to forge weld it back really hot. I need to find me some wrought iron...
  23. Truly depends on your equipment and skill . Got a good forge? A big press? A power hammer? Good anvil? Heat treating forge? Small canisters are tricky enough to do by hand. Damascus making is not an economical process. Always best to start small in the realm of blacksmithing. Teaches and humbles one a lot. To answer your question though, sure it's possible. How big a sword are you making? .02 cents
  24. Got these two out of heat treat and temper. Big one is cleaver/nakiri for a friend made of leaf spring. The smaller is a straight razor for the old noodle. Made of 180+ layer twist damascus. Differential heat treat on both.
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