Caleb Harris

Buckeye Engraving http://www.buckeyeengraving.com/ is one of if not the most popular touchmaker maker in the bladesmith world, at least among the Instagram community. Everyone loves his stuff. I haven't got mine done yet simply because I can't settle on a design

Cracks are fairly common (I had a big ol one that I had to chuck because of them), but easy to spot when you start working.

Yeah this is how I picked them up; already in the box tangled up like that. I gotta get a space before I can properly separate them so I'm keeping them where they are to keep from getting more jostled then they already are.

I loved seeing this one come to life on Instagram. Fantastic work as always.

Generally it's like everything else; sandpaper. Otherwise, the best bet is probably dremel bits: jewelers have a ton for every purpose imaginable. I don't do much filework but my go to would be rubber polishing bits, like this one: https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/462-rubber-polishing-cone-point . Rubber polishing bits are generally just rubber imbedded with abrasives. It feels like magic when you use them. Only tricky bit would be to keep all the sand lines consistent, but it just takes a bit of practice. Yes, theoretically you could get good enough with a stone rotary bit or a grinding belt, but honestly if you're grinding on a stone (as opposed to a belt) it's faster, easier, and more accurate to use files anyway. Same with using abrasive belts, except it'd technically be faster. Never underestimate the file.

It doesn't really matter all that much. Heck if I were you I'd just keep my eyes peeled at yard sales, craigslist, or facebook marketplace and buy one cheap there. I've got a dewalt, have used it (and it was used before me) a ton for a good five years now and it's never failed me.

Under three days?? Dang

So I lucked out and bought a bunch of files from a retiring machinist. A bunch of old Nicholsons (used, but well taken care of), averaging about a foot in length and medium to coarse. I didn't get a date but I believe they're pretty old, back when Nicholson was one of the best. I've also got a few brand new unused Simonds; triangle and flats, averaging about 8", most are lathe files. I'll get more dimensions and specifics if y'all are interested. Note that the Simonds are practically perfect condition, wrapped in paper when I got them. The Nicholsons are used and were together in a box when I picked it up. There's a variety of cuts. I'm looking for good needle files (mostly for guard fits and the like), anyone happen to have extras they'd like to swap? I'm also looking for various tools and materials handy in this craft, just seeing what's out there (especially grinder wheels and attachments). Money's tight so I'm shooting for trades as much as possible . Thanks all!

On files, I lucked out and picked up a ton from a retiring machinist. Old Nicholson's (from when they were good), used, but definitely still sharp. If you can pay shipping via paypal (like $10) I'll send you one or two suitable for draw filing.

That is a very good point, angle grinders especially it's worth it to get a safer one. Dangerous little buggers, but at least they're scary enough to keep you alert (unlike buffing wheels). I still have two halves of a cutoff disc lodged in the shop wall, gonna frame them when I get the chance.

The simplest and probably version is the Ron Reil style burner. Everything on it you can pick up from the local hardware store, except perhaps the propane adaptor. Check this out: https://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml

Files will work pre heat treat, but after that you can't really use steel tools to grind the blade to final shape. Until you can get a grinder, I'd honestly start out with an angle grinder (like $15 used) fitted with a flap disc, and very (very) gently and carefully grind down from there. You won't get crisp plunges, but you'll get a very good feel for steel; how it acts, how quickly it can heat up (and it will heat up quick), and how to get a feel for angles. Then I'd finish up with sandpaper. (Get comfortable with sandpaper, y'all will be spending a lot of time together). For files, depending on the coarseness of course, starting at 120 grit should do fine. Then just go up through each progression until you're happy; a clean 400 is usually on the lower tier of satin finishes. Hardware stores have 'em pretty pricy, but Combat Abrasives (I get all my stuff from them) have excellent prices and a good selection. Just get the cheapest for now. Oh, and two bits of advice for hand sanding: sand in alternate directions with each grit, so you can very clearly eliminate every scratch from the previous grit. Also, be comfortable buying a lot and throwing it out. You'll be happier without continually trying to sand with a worn out piece.

I love Combat Abrasives: https://www.combatabrasives.com . Good stuff, reliable, and they're always bringing in more variety. Their 24 and 36 grit "Shredders" are comparable to the Norton Blaze, and they offer good bulk deals. A while back half of a big order of mine got lost in the mail, and they replaced everything for free. Good stuff, great service, always improving.

I love this piece! It looks beautiful, and feels like a user. Gorgeous work!

Hand. I might be getting access to a press and hammer soon so hopefully that'll change