Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Caleb Harris

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Caleb Harris last won the day on September 4 2016

Caleb Harris had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

37 Excellent

About Caleb Harris

  • Birthday 08/03/1999

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Gems, Minerals, Bladesmithing, Archery, Metals, Violin, Writing, and my Savior.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,537 profile views
  1. Trouble getting blade hot enough during HT

    The Ron Reil style burner is extremely affordable, I've build a couple and it's drilling a total of three holes and the rest is just screwing the bits together.
  2. Anvil I.D.

    I don't know about you guys but that's an absolute beauty if you ask me! Cleaned up something nice! It looks quite a bit like my Peter Wright (about the same weight, a little smaller), but perhaps a tiny variation in the horn to step ratio
  3. Recurve Fighter Bowie - Japanese Fusion

    Pictures aren't showing up for me; I'm really excited to see this!
  4. Where should I start?

    Don't skip the tong forging practice folks- I can forge a pretty decent hot fit guard but can't make a pair of tongs to save my life, or couldn't last time I tried anyway
  5. different steel

    Cable damascus is inherently pretty simple; a loose twist is how one would best describe it. If you did the welding and all yourself, you can manipulate the pattern by twisting, folding, cutting etc . That's an entire world in itself. I tried chainsaw bar way back when I first started, I was told then it's usually O1 steel, an easy to work and heat treat steel, perfect for starting off. I believe it's pretty forgeable too but I haven't hot worked it before.
  6. Another score

    Daaaaaaang. All this? Talk about score!
  7. Anyone happen to have extra supplies of forge building materials (satanite, insulator) and/or grinder attachments (contact wheels mostly, 2" width) they'd be willing to sell? 

  8. OT damascus shotgun barrels

    I picked up one with a simple twist pattern, went and did a ton of research on it, curious also to see if it could harden up at all (ended up testing that; nope, not really). Very little value so far as refurbishing or selling either, most folks say it's just a wall hanger. Unfortunately I didn't think to bookmark the research I did. I'm keeping mine for general fittings
  9. WIP Chiseled Manieristic Rapier Hilt

    This thread as a whole is an absolute pleasure to watch!
  10. Bladesmith business + Facebook promotions?

    A good lot of successful bladesmiths have been basing their sales off email lists, using social media marketing to drive them to their site and so to the list. Boothill blades for instance sells largely by monthly email; make knives throughout the month, then send an email to the list, with the first to email in and claim a knife getting it. He figured out that system pretty well. Hoffman blacksmithing uses email for return customers only, which builds up loyalty; any new or special stuff he offers his email list first, before offering it publicly on his site.
  11. an examination of rail road anchors (1060)

    The manufacturer, Pandrol, responded to my email! "Many thanks for your email. Unfortunately this information is part of our IPR and we are unable to release it. I hope your project is a success." So dead end there. Oh well, I'm getting close to perfecting my process. Tempering at 350 F gave me about a 30 degree bend before snapping. 375 should give me what I want for a kwaiken, I'll probably be looking at 400 for mid size and closer to 420 for larger blades.
  12. an examination of rail road anchors (1060)

    Hm, now that's interesting. I guess the only way to find out for sure is to break it and take a look at the color of inside of the crack.
  13. an examination of rail road anchors (1060)

    By Annealing do you mean tempering? My bet is the cracks formed during the quench itself and not when you tried straightening it; breaking the blade will reveal if this is the case or not. If the crack formed during the quench, when you break it you'll see the inside of the crack and it'll be colored by tempering colors. My best theory as to why the lengthwise cracks form is to too quick of cooling (and "shrinking") rate of the surface: I've had this many times and never had I had a crack go all the way through from one side to the other. I'm pretty sure that overheating the blade before the quench is the culprit. Try heat treating another one as close to critical temp as possible? That might do it. Quenching in the dark to more closely monitor heat should do the trick.
  14. an examination of rail road anchors (1060)

    Not sure yet, the best specs I could find was a selection of common steels used for the type of clip I'm researching. Four different steels, no way as of yet to narrow down which one it was except for (and this is still only theoretical) the fact that I didn't ping anything in a water quench. They're all in the standard .55-.65% carbon range though. Thanks for the info! With a bit more experimenting, I should be able to narrow it down. Or, I guess, get it tested, but that's no fun. In any case, I'm testing for the ideal tempering now, but would 9260 take a slightly different temperature from 1060 or is it close enough to warrant roughly the same heat treat?
  15. an examination of rail road anchors (1060)

    Found a supply of anchors myself (Safelok I type) and am conducting a number of tests on them, using very small kwaiken style blades. I did a ton of research into them and they look to be pretty safely 1060, however I found a chart that narrows it down to 2-4 very slightly different types, with the main difference in between them being Manganese content (ranging if I remember rightly from .17-.95% or so). So, test results. So far I'm not touching the subject of hamon, but I'm quite sure I'm getting some autohamon in a few. Forged seven blades out, extremely small kwaiken styles, spine thickness a tad above 3/16" and edge thickness about 1/16". First tests were for quenching itself, plain water. Three blades were cracked, however they were not standard perpendicular edge cracks but rather went lengthwise along the spine. Experimenting narrowed it down to overheating: darkening the room to supplement my magnet fixed this issue. So far my go-to is interrupted quench: 3-4 seconds in water and finish in warm canola. Yes I'll get Parks one day. However, despite interrupted quench resulting in safe results, plain water worked very well so long as I didn't overheat, which actually surprises me, especially as the edge is very thin. My theory is that the Safelok I anchors are very low manganese. There is also the possibility that because the blades have very low surface area, there's far less stress over the blade, which works for me. I also emailed the manufacturer asking for the technical data. It's unlikely I'll get a response but you never know. I haven't documented my results in plain canola as of yet, but from a few earlier blades it didn't seem to get quite glassy, whereas water did it every time. One blade I clayed up with Rutlands and did an interrupted quench (3-4 seconds in water), resulting in no hamon activity. I normalized and tried again, this time with roughly one second in water before canola. This gave me an autohamon. Not much activity but an autohamon nonetheless. On to tempering, my first blade I tempered at 300 for three hours. I shot low on purpose, just making sure I have a base testing point. Edge retention was incredible. Hammered through walnut, brass rod, still hair shaving. Got about an eight inch through a bar of iron before it chipped a chunk out of the edge. Concrete toss test was just plain fun, made sure to get a good number of tip first into the cement. Nicked up the edge of course but no snapping of the tip, and nothing that couldn't be repaired with five minutes of sharpening. Very please. It didn't do so well on the bend test, absolutely no flex before breaking, but it did take some fair effort before that happened. Tempering the second blade to 350 F, will conduct tests this afternoon.