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Caleb Harris

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Caleb Harris last won the day on September 4 2016

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About Caleb Harris

  • Birthday 08/03/1999

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    https://stonesoftheearth.wordpress.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Gems, Minerals, Bladesmithing, Archery, Metals, Violin, Writing, and my Savior.

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  1. This thread as a whole is an absolute pleasure to watch!
  2. A good lot of successful bladesmiths have been basing their sales off email lists, using social media marketing to drive them to their site and so to the list. Boothill blades for instance sells largely by monthly email; make knives throughout the month, then send an email to the list, with the first to email in and claim a knife getting it. He figured out that system pretty well. Hoffman blacksmithing uses email for return customers only, which builds up loyalty; any new or special stuff he offers his email list first, before offering it publicly on his site.
  3. The manufacturer, Pandrol, responded to my email! "Many thanks for your email. Unfortunately this information is part of our IPR and we are unable to release it. I hope your project is a success." So dead end there. Oh well, I'm getting close to perfecting my process. Tempering at 350 F gave me about a 30 degree bend before snapping. 375 should give me what I want for a kwaiken, I'll probably be looking at 400 for mid size and closer to 420 for larger blades.
  4. Hm, now that's interesting. I guess the only way to find out for sure is to break it and take a look at the color of inside of the crack.
  5. By Annealing do you mean tempering? My bet is the cracks formed during the quench itself and not when you tried straightening it; breaking the blade will reveal if this is the case or not. If the crack formed during the quench, when you break it you'll see the inside of the crack and it'll be colored by tempering colors. My best theory as to why the lengthwise cracks form is to too quick of cooling (and "shrinking") rate of the surface: I've had this many times and never had I had a crack go all the way through from one side to the other. I'm pretty sure that overheating the blade before the quench is the culprit. Try heat treating another one as close to critical temp as possible? That might do it. Quenching in the dark to more closely monitor heat should do the trick.
  6. Not sure yet, the best specs I could find was a selection of common steels used for the type of clip I'm researching. Four different steels, no way as of yet to narrow down which one it was except for (and this is still only theoretical) the fact that I didn't ping anything in a water quench. They're all in the standard .55-.65% carbon range though. Thanks for the info! With a bit more experimenting, I should be able to narrow it down. Or, I guess, get it tested, but that's no fun. In any case, I'm testing for the ideal tempering now, but would 9260 take a slightly different temperature from 1060 or is it close enough to warrant roughly the same heat treat?
  7. Found a supply of anchors myself (Safelok I type) and am conducting a number of tests on them, using very small kwaiken style blades. I did a ton of research into them and they look to be pretty safely 1060, however I found a chart that narrows it down to 2-4 very slightly different types, with the main difference in between them being Manganese content (ranging if I remember rightly from .17-.95% or so). So, test results. So far I'm not touching the subject of hamon, but I'm quite sure I'm getting some autohamon in a few. Forged seven blades out, extremely small kwaiken styles, spine thickness a tad above 3/16" and edge thickness about 1/16". First tests were for quenching itself, plain water. Three blades were cracked, however they were not standard perpendicular edge cracks but rather went lengthwise along the spine. Experimenting narrowed it down to overheating: darkening the room to supplement my magnet fixed this issue. So far my go-to is interrupted quench: 3-4 seconds in water and finish in warm canola. Yes I'll get Parks one day. However, despite interrupted quench resulting in safe results, plain water worked very well so long as I didn't overheat, which actually surprises me, especially as the edge is very thin. My theory is that the Safelok I anchors are very low manganese. There is also the possibility that because the blades have very low surface area, there's far less stress over the blade, which works for me. I also emailed the manufacturer asking for the technical data. It's unlikely I'll get a response but you never know. I haven't documented my results in plain canola as of yet, but from a few earlier blades it didn't seem to get quite glassy, whereas water did it every time. One blade I clayed up with Rutlands and did an interrupted quench (3-4 seconds in water), resulting in no hamon activity. I normalized and tried again, this time with roughly one second in water before canola. This gave me an autohamon. Not much activity but an autohamon nonetheless. On to tempering, my first blade I tempered at 300 for three hours. I shot low on purpose, just making sure I have a base testing point. Edge retention was incredible. Hammered through walnut, brass rod, still hair shaving. Got about an eight inch through a bar of iron before it chipped a chunk out of the edge. Concrete toss test was just plain fun, made sure to get a good number of tip first into the cement. Nicked up the edge of course but no snapping of the tip, and nothing that couldn't be repaired with five minutes of sharpening. Very please. It didn't do so well on the bend test, absolutely no flex before breaking, but it did take some fair effort before that happened. Tempering the second blade to 350 F, will conduct tests this afternoon.
  8. Looking like an idiot tossing a test knife all over the concrete. It's gonna land on me some someday I swear

  9. Thank you!! This forum has been exceptionally indispensable to gradual improvement, and helps me keep track of where I came from. It seems like most of my work I start out with the blade, and whatever base material I have available, and try to figure it out from there. I think it worked out here. Thank you sir!
  10. Just edited it
  11. Of late I've been diving a lot more into the Japanese styles, sparked largely by Dave Friesen's work. Through a mutual friend I also met a nihonto collector, and that's been sucking me into the Japanese world more and more. I still like the style with my own twists though. This was a learning process in wrapping (jabara maki in this one, correct?) and copper work (especially the habaki), and chisel work (chiseling curls is tough). Blade length: 12.5''Total tanto length: 1'7''Blade thickness at habaki: 3/16'' with distal taper. Blade is reclaimed leaf spring, oil quenched and torch tempered. Habaki, tsuba, menuki, fuchi, and kashira are Copper. Pommel stone is labradorite, an old piece I did years ago, it has a crack running through it but is secure. The saya and tsuka are curly maple, the tsuka wrap is leather jabara maki over a black cotton base. Seppa is carbon fiber. The saya's koiguchi, kurikata, and kojiri are water buffalo horn, the saya has a leather wrap, and a silk Sageo. This is also a huge business milestone for me; it's the most I've sold my work far to date. Quite relieved too because I need belts. Ignore the auction caption; this is the image I used for Instagram.
  12. What are the dimensions of the rounds?
  13. viking

    I haven't seem something like this in a while. This is amazing!
  14. A dropping point like that is usually something like a wharncliffe or sheepsfoot, but I suppose those are more convex of a drop...
  15. Clean and simple, I like it! And hey if you want someone to take that micarta off your hands...