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Caleb Harris

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Caleb Harris last won the day on December 17 2017

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About Caleb Harris

  • Birthday 08/03/1999

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  • Website URL
    https://stonesoftheearth.wordpress.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Gems, Minerals, Bladesmithing, Archery, Metals, Violin, Writing, and my Savior.

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5,131 profile views
  1. Belts!!

    I love Combat Abrasives: https://www.combatabrasives.com . Good stuff, reliable, and they're always bringing in more variety. Their 24 and 36 grit "Shredders" are comparable to the Norton Blaze, and they offer good bulk deals. A while back half of a big order of mine got lost in the mail, and they replaced everything for free. Good stuff, great service, always improving.
  2. Buckeye Hunter - or the knife I made twice

    I love this piece! It looks beautiful, and feels like a user. Gorgeous work!
  3. First Integral Chef

    Hand. I might be getting access to a press and hammer soon so hopefully that'll change
  4. From Katana to Cutlass

    Woo now that's a beauty! Love the fusion aspect of it
  5. Seven King Sword

    Incredible work!! Thank you so much for sharing
  6. Many many thanks to everyone

    Now that's a gorgeous setup! Gotta love the orange (not too close to that wall right?). Can't wait to see your work. I find the two hammers (heavy cross and light ball) do pretty much all the work you need, and you develop a bond to them pretty quick.
  7. OT damascus shotgun barrels

    So I picked up one at an antique store a while back, decided to try it out yesterday. Brazing came apart no problem, cut a slit down the center, and welded some W2 core into there. I'm extremely inexperienced with forge welding (I could really use a press), so this is one of the heights for me in that area. Forged into a tanto, today I'll be able to clean it up and we'll see what the pattern looks like and how many flaws I have.
  8. cutting down on scale

    You could experiment with reducing the amount of heat as you dial in the final shape, should help reduce the scale buildup. You could look into cold forging (post annealing, pre grinding), gets a really clean, smooth face finish. I believe this is a good thread on the subject:
  9. Anyone guess at the age of this anvil?

    Some of you guys get all the luck
  10. This is impressive! Are you drawing it out at welding heat each time at this stage?
  11. Coffee Treating by Mareko Maumasi

    I tried it on a clay quenched blade; not really much effect. It's a little lighter in the soft section but not much change
  12. Coffee Treating by Mareko Maumasi

    Mareko Maumasi is probably known best for two things: his kitchen knives (featuring amazing damascus, so maybe that's three?), and his eagerness to share his knowledge and help other smiths. A week or so ago, he posted a video series to his Instagram, detailing how he finishes the steel using instant coffee. Though I haven't really dived into pattern welding just yet (anyone have an extra press?), I was eager to figure this out, and even used it on a monosteel blade just for a nice dark, even patina. With Mareko's permission, I transcribed his videos to text for a more permanent and easily accessible reference, and he also gave me permission to share it, as well as publish a summary article. He goes through prep, mixing ratio, temperature, timing, troubleshooting, and more. I published the transcription to my blog here: http://www.brokebladesmith.com/blog/2017/12/23/coffee-treating-damascus-blades Next week I'll publish the much shorter summary that hits the main points and troubleshooting. If you guys use any of the tips he gave, be sure to shoot him your thanks. Enjoy! -Caleb
  13. Forged in Fire bevel angles....

    There are books worth of information behind this question. A few people will be able to give you their preferred numbers and geometry, however I prefer just to lay out some factors to explain whys and whats, which are more helpful for an understanding of the goal. So far as the ideals go today, if you're foregoing puncturing, you'd be best off researching the geometry of the bladesports knives. Competition knives tend to have to be the best or near it to stand up to their rivals, so that would be a good starting point. That said, there are a few factors to balance. 1. Strength. You'll notice, as an example, that many cheaper kitchen knives today have fairly thick angles, to the detriment of their cutting ability. This is because of cheaper steel, inferior heat treat, and cheaper production. The thinner the angle, the more efficient the cut. However, the thinner the knife, the weaker it is. Better steel and more importantly, better heat treat, make up for this loss of strength. So, in simple terms, strength (resistance to deformation) can be boiled down to thickness and heat treat. This is the first thing to factor in; a broken or deformed knife is worse than an inefficient cutter. So if you have poor steel, you may want to increase thickness at the cost of cutting ability. This is reversed if you have superior steel and heat treat. 2. Angles. Like above, the more acute the angle, the more efficient the cut. It doesn't matter how sharp it is, a logging axe will never be as good at cutting tomatoes as a nice gyuto will be. Competition cutters for heavy chopping AND slicing are best off with a full flat grind, or a very very slightly convex grind. Now, let's assume you have two knives, each with say 1/4" spine thickness, full flat grind, and same steel and heat treat. However, knife A has a blade WIDTH (from spine to cutting edge) of 1", and knife B has a blade width of 2". The strength is roughly the same, however knife B will be a more efficient cutter. 3. Weight. If you were to choose between knife A and B, you'd probably prefer B. However, if this is a very long blade, you start to get an increase in weight as well, there being so much more mass. This can be good or bad: either the knife is too heavy to easily use, or the extra weight increases the force in a given swing (Force=MASS X Acceleration). Once again, a balance. You might not want the blade to be so wide, in order to cut down weight. Or, you might add a fuller. Or, you might want to decrease the width near the handle to cut down the weight, but increase it as it goes out, so you have a thinner bevel AND increased weight at the expected impact point. The Nepalese kukri is one of the more famous examples of this idea. If your'e planning on making one, my best advice would be to do some homework on blades (or short swords, it looks like) that specialize in what you're looking for, and just plain copy them. Forged in fire competitions are typically where camp knives or fighters would best perform. Kukri, possibly wakizashi, various machetes, bowies, these all can operate in that particular world. There are so many factors, that I would advise picking an existing knife, copying it, and modifying the geometry based on tests. I would not (not to mention could not) make a wakizashi with the same bevel angles as a kukri. 22" is big, very big. That's gonna put limits on the utter efficiency of a cutter, and puts it in short sword world. If you're doing something like a camp knife, go shorter! Bladesports has a 15" TOTAL limit. If you want to kill things that also want to kill you (aka making a weapon), and you don't need to worry about ease of carry or concealability, extra reach is pretty dang helpful to, you know, not die. It all depends on the efficiency, and we have thousands of years of human history all trying to balance all these factors to get the best thing for their particular application. Hope that's not too much of a book for ya . I guess I could've answered something like "10 degrees!" but that's no fun. That said, 10 degrees is a fair enough starting point, and just figure out thicker or thinner based off all the other factors.
  14. 2018 What are your forging plans.....

    I'm gonna be hopping around a bit it looks like. I've never found one particular niche to stick with; my entire journey is chasing shiny objects and trying new things, but hey I don't mind. This year I'll be really ramping up trying to curate as much information on bladesmithing as I can. More writing, more making, and above all more learning.
  15. First Integral Chef

    Culinary knives are something I've really only admired and watched other people make, but with my brother entering more into the food world, and Christmas coming up, I decided to give it a go. Forged from one of those E-shaped rail anchors. I'm not super familiar with integrals, so it was tricky to get the heel down straight from the bolster, but I got it more or less. Mareko Maumasi sent me a quick sketch of how he draws the heel back behind the bolster, so that helped, but I think I can do better on the next one. Salem's recent integral has me floored but it's a goal eventually. The entire forging process consisted of studying integral knives by half a dozen or more kitchen knife makers between each heat. It heat treated well, took a slight hamon but it wasn't much so I didn't bring it out. Quenched in Canola, tempered at 375 for several hours, then torch tempered the spine. It takes an incredible flex, and the edge flex (ground to zero) was fantastic. Took forever to hand sand though. The spine is roughly 1/8 in front of the plunge, with a distal taper. Blade is roughly 9" (I didn't take official measurements). Thermoplastic spacer, stabilized Kingwood from greenberg woods, and stabilized curly koa from Petescustomkoa. Overall a fun project and a new world I really like. Maybe someday I'll find a niche but until then I'll try anything and everything.
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