Caleb Harris

Thank you!! This forum has been exceptionally indispensable to gradual improvement, and helps me keep track of where I came from. It seems like most of my work I start out with the blade, and whatever base material I have available, and try to figure it out from there. I think it worked out here. Thank you sir!

Just edited it

Of late I've been diving a lot more into the Japanese styles, sparked largely by Dave Friesen's work. Through a mutual friend I also met a nihonto collector, and that's been sucking me into the Japanese world more and more. I still like the style with my own twists though. This was a learning process in wrapping (jabara maki in this one, correct?) and copper work (especially the habaki), and chisel work (chiseling curls is tough). Blade length: 12.5''Total tanto length: 1'7''Blade thickness at habaki: 3/16'' with distal taper. Blade is reclaimed leaf spring, oil quenched and torch tempered. Habaki, tsuba, menuki, fuchi, and kashira are Copper. Pommel stone is labradorite, an old piece I did years ago, it has a crack running through it but is secure. The saya and tsuka are curly maple, the tsuka wrap is leather jabara maki over a black cotton base. Seppa is carbon fiber. The saya's koiguchi, kurikata, and kojiri are water buffalo horn, the saya has a leather wrap, and a silk Sageo. This is also a huge business milestone for me; it's the most I've sold my work far to date. Quite relieved too because I need belts. Ignore the auction caption; this is the image I used for Instagram.

What are the dimensions of the rounds?

I haven't seem something like this in a while. This is amazing!

A dropping point like that is usually something like a wharncliffe or sheepsfoot, but I suppose those are more convex of a drop...

Clean and simple, I like it! And hey if you want someone to take that micarta off your hands...

By logic of mass, assuming you've got the same heat treat and steel, of course a full tang is going to be technically stronger. Thing is, the breaking or bending point of both is far greater than you would come anywhere near to in regular use so it's really no issue.

Looking clean! I love those lines

I love it! It looks just as at home covered in blood and gore as in the great dwarven halls. It's begging to be used!

Most folks use a toaster oven set at 350-450 F, depending the steel. The torch method (watching the colors) is to use a torch to heat up the spine and watch the colors. It's pretty unreliable however and not very precise. 300 C is awfully hot, most steels require temperatures between 180 and 230 Celsius.

Instagram for knifemakers was at its peak a year or two ago; they made some annoying changes but for the most part it's thriving still. The main plus is you can very quickly and easily take and post photos, and see other makers do the same, so there's a lot of communication going on. Customers also can see your professional photos as well as WIP shots. Very tight community especially.

Been forever since I stepped in here and daaaaaaang. You're getting me excited!

Dang this one went completely over my head. Kitchen knives right?