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      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

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Tre Asay

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About Tre Asay

  • Birthday 07/03/1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Caldwell Idaho
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, building, pyrotechnics, firearms, metallurgy, photography, lasers & magnets, anything I can make with what I have.
  1. I was thinking about building a forge in my spare time, I am closer to a steel distributor right now and I have access to the resources. I will probably do a mild steel frame, and moulded refractory burners inlaid into cut kaowool and the works. SS looks like a cool Idea but I just don't have the experience welding anything besides mild steel. Please share what sort of fans you use as that is the only thing I have no Idea about.
  2. Well, I will go ahead and post part 2 I got it heat-treated by using a channel forge.
  3. Don't we all. That is really awesome, how sharp is it gonna be?
  4. This is something that I have wanted to try for a while. It is not my most ambitious project (see "Wip Flatter") but it is the biggest knife that I have started. Here is a youtube video, this time with music! https://youtu.be/qt4j446kwQA
  5. Well, getting some aldo's 10xx steel was on the to do list the shipping is killer though, If these sell I will look into ordering some. I figured even with the cost of purchasing steel assuming I don't mess anything up the average cost in materials and tools is about $43 per knife, that is counting on taking one bag of charcoal per knife to forge and heat treat. This knife I used less than half a bag and a good chunk of that was getting the leaf spring from 1/4" to 3/16" and as flat as possible so buying bars would save me some time and fuel.
  6. Ht went well, I have had a bit of a problem with knives getting a bit softer than I wanted after temper so this time I made sure to heat up the oil really well, I quenched in oil then cooled in water to make sure it did not auto temper, and I tempered at 325 (oven setting) for 1 hour. I was a bit worried about decarb because the edge was hairline thin before normalizing but it was not a problem, the file skated off of the surface of the blade after quenching. Unlike most of my previous knives I tried to get the blade nearly finished before Ht. I always thought that the finish left from quenching looked pretty, too bad I am going to take it all off when I sharpen. Tomorrow I will start and probably complete the handle. Thanks for the tip, I may look into that as I go through the 80 grit pads very quickly on steel. :/
  7. Well the mission has hit a bit of a delay so I have decided to try and raise some money by selling knives and getting a job. I completed one last week and the other I started yesterday and I am going to heat treat tonight. I have discovered the usefulness of an orbital sander for both wood and metal finishing, It leaves much shallower scratches than equivalent hand sanding grits and is much faster as well. I can go straight from the file to 80 grit, 280 grit, and after that p1000 hand sanding if I want.
  8. I made this knife in the spring for a gardener that did a demonstration on the mittleider method at our house. I haven't been able to finish anything since then and I never got around to posting because to be honest I feel like I still am not competent in making simple knives. Compared to the work posted here this is sub-par quality but it is honestly the best I could do. I have been working on other hobbies this summer and I have been able to complete the rank of eagle scout at the cost of missing this year's KITH (I had already done all of the requirements for the metalworking merit badge, go figure ). I am also planning on serving a full time mission for the LDS church starting this fall which I expect will take me until late 2017. I probably won't be doing anything worth posting in bladesmithing before I go. I am kind of nervous that by the time I get back I will have forgotten how to swing a hammer but I'll see. Maybe I will learn enough patience that I will be able to finally finish a knife right. Anyways, here it is t-88 epoxy, copper, RR clip steel, steel pins, and Paduk with a bit of beeswax rubbed in for good measure. I just opened to a random page in an old book for a background.
  9. I am going to have to drop out, as much as I would love to try my hand at making an awesome pukko. Job changes and some other projects has made it so I havn't been able to light the forge all summer.
  10. well I may have volunteered this month to host a set of activities about bladesmithing. I plan on having about a dozen people over this Wednesdays this month and weekends to begin forging knives. This Wednesday I have told people to bring a design of a blade no more than 10 inches long in total and we are going to go over design, forging and shop safety procedures. After that I have two more weeks until we are actually going to begin forging to get materials and tools set up. Before I start I wan't to make sure I have: -first aid kit -hearing and seeing protection for everyone -at least one more forge to use -a lot of fuel -a few more mill bastard files -cut down leaf springs I know a guy that knows a machinist that might be able to get me all of the steel for blades pre cut for free which I will look into if it is carbon steel. I am planning on none of the knives handled with wood unless someone wants to supply the material and time. The ultimate goal is for everyone to have a good usable (albeit rough) knife in the end, I feel like it will be hard to get people to come and finish their knives which I will not do for them. One of the guys that is coming has a 100 lb beat up good old anvil that he will probably be able to bring and I have two light makeshift anvils to use. Any tips for making sure that this does not turn into a total disaster of chaos?
  11. well I have heard of a "mare's leg" rifle but never a filly's foot knife.
  12. sorry for the lack of updates, I got sick over spring break then got spring fever. Today I have used a round file to refine the shoulders and I have started to file the blade down.
  13. maybe it was destroyed as described in this post: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=31110 sorry if it has nothing to do with what you are talking about, I just found it interesting.
  14. +1 to that, Choose a good distance say 3/4 on an inch from either end of the handle material and one in the middle of the two pins.